News   Numbers   Year
 
 
9a/+ FA by Seb Bouin in Verdon  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing reports that Seb Bouin has done the FA of L'homme demain 9a/+ in Verdon, meaning that he has done 27 routes graded 9a to 9b.

"The route was bolted by Antonin Rhodes. It's the hardest route of the crag, which now hosts four 9th-grade challenges. The route is 50 meters long, a stamina monster that Seb describes as an 8c+ followed by an 8c in the steepest part of the wall." Photo : Jan Novak Photography

 
 
8b+ and 8c by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (11)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi arrived to Podzamcze some two weeks ago with a personal best of 8b. There he first did an 8b+ and yesterday he stepped up by doing Pijane trójkąty 8c.

- I found a best place for me to climb. Almost every crag, rock and route are mostly vertical, with small holds and balancy moves,
that's my favorite style of climbing. But even when the rock is like my style it is still very hard to send this line. It is long, pumpy and has three cruxes all over the line, so I did maximum two tries a day. At first two days I did only one try though.

His mother, Ann, explains that Illya started climbing some four years ago but he has never had any trainers beside his parents, who climb in the 6th grade. Most of the times, Illya climbs outdoor as his parents normally work with IT and travel abroad. In 2014, he won Arco Rock Junior being 9 years old, when he also did his first 8a+.

 
 
Ondra and Garnbret winners of Arco Rock Master in Duel  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanet Mountain reports that Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret won the 30th edition of the Arco Rock Master, which was held in a Duel format. Climbers climb on the same route competing one against the other.

 
 
Ondra and Saurwein win Arco KO Boulder  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanet Mountain reports that Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein won the Arco KO Boulder contest. Actually, Katha had the best result on all four problems meanwhile Adam only won on the final Boulder. Runner-ups were Jan Hojer and Giorgia Tesio followed by Jeremy Bonder and Stasa Gejo. (c) Giulio Malfer

 
 
Dreamcatcher 9a in one day by Alex Megos  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos continues his rampage in Canada and does Chris Sharma's Dreamcatcher 9a in just one day, video, and he comments on Facebook.

"This was the only route I knew when I came to Canada! And today I grabbed the 4th ascent of it in one day! "Deamcatcher" 5.14d (9a)!!! Super stoked to have climbed this world class route! One of the best of all time!" (c) Ken Etzel

 
 
Desgranges & Verhoeven winners in the perfect show in Arco  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnak Verhoeven and Romain Desgranges were the only two who topped out the semifinal and so they started last in the final, they really pleased the crowd. Anak topped out her fourth straight route in Arco and Romain tied Jakob Schubert's result, winning after the countback.

The previous superior leaders overall, Janja Garnbret and Domen Skofic were #3 and #4 meaning that the leader board was tightened up. Adam Ondra did his first WC in 2016 and he said he needed to adopt to plastic again. In three weeks, the World Championship in Paris starts. (c) More great pics from Eddie Fowke.

1. Romain Desgranges 44+ : Anak Verhoeven Top
2. Jakob Schubert 44 + : Jain Kim 49+
3. Dimitrii Fakiryanov 42 : Janja Garnbret 29+
4. Domen Skofic 39+ : Methilde Becerra 29
5. Adam Ondra 39+ : Mina Markovic 27
Complete results

 
 
Andrada and Markovic get the Arco Awards  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanet Mountain reports that Dani Andrada won the Salewa Rock Award and Mina Markovic won the La Sportiva Competition Award in the Arco Legends of fame. (c) Giulio Malfer

Dani Andrada (41) is the legend that has bolted most hard core routes in the world and it is mainly thanks to him that the crags around Lleida have been the hardcore epicentrum of the world. Previously and since 2006, the Awards have been given based on the last year performances but clearly, they changed it in order to not give Adam Ondra his fifth award. The Czech has done many more hard routes compared to Andrada as well as bolting at least last year.

 
 
16 double tops in Arco - Semi Live at 12 and Final at 20  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn contrast to Imst last weekend with only two double tops in the qualifications, nine male and seven female topped both routes in Arco, including Adam Ondra who did his debut in the WC 2016. Here is a video from Arco where he talks about what he has been up to lately. Qualification results.

The only two top climbers who also go for the Speed, Charlotte Durif and David Firnenburg, qualified as #23 and #30 respectively. Charlotte had also the best result being #24 out of 29 in the Speed with 10.54.

Live-streaming of the Semi starts at 12. The Speed final starts at 18.15 and the Lead Final 20.00.

 
 
Two 8a+ onsights by Jan Vopat (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Vopat has onsighted Mal Amores and Montserrat, both 8a+, in Rodellar, meaning that during the last two weeks the 13-year-old has onsighted six routes graded 8a to 8b. In the 8a ranking game, The Czech is #1 among the 14-year-olds and #13 in the overall junior ranking.

 
 
Chris Sharma doing the craziest move on his Le Blond 9c project  (5) Facebook
 

 
 
#2 in the 8a ranking game - Ryuichi Murai  Facebook
 

Ryuichi Murai did three 8C's in a month this spring. Here we present his great video profile.

 
 
Blanco: the new shoe from Five Ten  Facebook
 

 
 
Comfortable and designable kids shoes from La Sportiva  Facebook
 

 
 
Adam Ondra to compete in Arco  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe fifth stage of the Lead World Cup takes place in Arco this Friday and Saturday and the interesting news is that Adam Ondra will participate. The live streaming starts at 12.00 on Saturday with the semi followed by the final at 20.00.

Only two established Lead WC climbers, Charlotte Durif and David Firnenburg will also compete in Speed. The qualification begins at 9.30 on Saturday and then the participants have to go into the semi isolation at 11.00.

On Sunday, the 30th edition of the Rockmaster will take place with KO boulder and Duel where ten qualified athletes will climb neck-to-neck and the fastest climber goes to the next round. In Bouldering, seven invited climbers including Adam Ondra will first train and then redpoint four Boulders and the lowest-ranked of them will be eliminated after each Boulder. In total, Adam Ondra could win 9 000 Euro if he wins all the three events.

 
 
Hardcore in Rocklands  Facebook
 


Shosholoza 8a+, Oral Office 8a+ & The Vice 8b, Rocklands from Michiel on Vimeo.

 
 
The 2020 Combined Solution  (19) Facebook
 

The normal solution for calculating who should win the gold in Sport Climbing Combined would be to sum up the results from all three disciplines. This is also more or less how they do it in disciplines such as decathlon and triathlon - in terms no extra credit being given to the winner of one discipline.

However, if IFSC stick with the actual scoring system that is adapted to 20 athletes, this is how it could look like: #1 = 100, #2 = 75, #3 = 60, #4 = 50... and #20 = 1.

In practice, this would mean that the best guys like Adam Ondra would most probably get the Olympic gold if they win one discipline and take the third place in the other, at the same time being dead last in Speed. Measured by points they would get 161 points and so beat a guy being #4 in all three disciplines, as that person only gets 150 points. Basing on the more logical ranking score, Ondra would get 24 points clearly beating the triple fourth guy getting only 12 ranking points.

It would be a bit peculiar about the point method that in fact until the qualifications are over, it would be more or less meaningless for all Boulder and Lead climbers to practice Speed. The reason for this is that the normal Speed climbers will anyhow most certainly get all high scores in that discipline.

Once the qualifications are over, some of the 20 qualified may focus on Speed as winning that event in combination with just one Top-10 position, could actually give you an Olympic medal at some 120 points.

An alternative to the scoring system, giving more or less the same results, would be to multiply the rankings in the three disciplines as it is done in Lead WC flash qualifications.

 
 
Imst Lead final highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
Jan Kareš, 42, sets new 6 h pull-up record = 3 569  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Kareš, who was #17 in a Lead World Cup in 1998, has set a new Guiness World Record by doing 3 569 pull ups in six hours. The 42-year-old, weighing some 80 kilos, has since 2008 spent some 150 days bolting in Sardinia, paying everything by himself, and that is what he does all his vacations.

- I love climbing this is only because some people invite me to events:-))

The record was a part of an event streamed live and Jan started with 500 sets of 5 pull-ups, followed by 300 sets of 4 pull-ups. He has been training and going for world records for the last seven years and he is also the current, one set, record holder with 232 pull-ups.

 
 
Red Chili news from Friedrichafen  Facebook
 

 
 
New interesting rope bag from Climbing Technology  Facebook
 

 
 
New harness from Singing Rock  Facebook
 

 
 
Interesting new features in the new Grigri+  Facebook
 

 
 
Ecological 8B/+ footprint by Pirmin Bertle  Facebook
 


The project ONE - one year in one room with a ecological footprint of one. Including "Mongolia 8B/8B+". from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
 
The best sport climbing all-rounders in the history?  (25) Facebook
 

Here is a draft list of the best sport climbers in the world based on their all-round top performance in all disciplines, from bouldering to multi-pitch, including also competitions. Surely, several names are missing so please suggest names. UPDATE: Many names have been forwarded but all of them do not have any good senior WC results.

1. Adam Ondra
2. Lynn Hill
3. Yuji Hirayama
4. Catherine Destivelle
5. Jorg Verhoeven
6. David Lama
7. Chris Sharma
8. Nina Caprez
9. Edu Marin
10. Klemen Becan, Caroline Ciavaldini, Kilian Fischhuber, Dani Andrada, Cedric Lachat

 
 
Five Ten dominates Boulder WC 2016  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFive Ten has published a nice wrap-up of the Boulder WC 2016, where they proudly say that it was dominated by Five Ten Athletes. In fact, among the male both #1 and #2, Narasaki and Fuji, as well as #1 and #3 among women, Coxsey and Le Neve, all wear Five Ten shoes.

In the wrap-up, there is also a conversation with Melissa Le Neve where she explained her success by getting new motivation to train very hard, having fun as well as sacrificing outdoors climbing, which she will pick up again later this year.

 
 
Silvretta August 2016  Facebook
 

 
 
Europeans dominate the Lead World Cup  (1) Facebook
 

1. Domen Skofic 325 - Janja Garnbret 351
2. Jakob Schubert 232 - Magdalenda Röck 271
3. Sean McColl 208 - Anak Verhoeven 255
4. Stefano Ghisolfi 201 - Jain Kim 250
5. Gauthier Supper 200 - Jessica Pilz 157

The fifth stage will take place in Arco this weekend.

 
 
Skofic & Röck win in Imst  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic took his third victory in 2016 and levels up with his girlfriend Janja Garnbret, who was fifth after three straight victories, saying that she was so stressed about timing out. Anak Verhoeven was timed out even though she had a watch on her wrist and in fact, none of the female would have been able to reach the top within eight minutes. The wall in Imst is 21 meter high and rather vertical in the lower parts making it hard to climb fast. More great pics from (c) Eddie Fowke.

1. Domen Skofic SLO 53+ : Magdalena Röck AUT 56+
2. Jakob Schubert AUT 53+ : Mina Markovic SLO 56
3. Gauthier Supper FRA 50 : Jain Kim KOR 56
Complete results

Interestingly, all 16 finalist but one made it to hold 39 and in the end just the final itself took more than 2.5 hours.

 
 
Edu Marin does WoGü 8c (+) MP  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdu Marin, one of the very best allround climbers, comes with the great news on Instagram that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's WoGü 8c, 7c+, 8b+/c, 8b, 8b+, 8a+, 7c+, multi-pitch in Rätikon. Edu has previously said that he thinks the first pitch is 8c+.

- Yesterday I achieved the first repetition of "WOGÜ" the Monster of the Alps!!! Eight years have passed since its first free ascent by Adam Ondra in July 2008. A nice and hard process in which I've been submerged for nearly two months. The conditions in August were not the best: rain, moisture, heat, etc ... Perseverance, constancy, humility and motivation are some of the keys to unlocking this amazing line opened by Beat Kammerlander in 1997 in honor of Wolfgang Güllich.

Without you father this would not have been possible. Thank you for your patience and for calming the beast. Thanks Marc for your positive energy!!
This is also yours!! Dream Team!!!

 
 
IFSC need to speed up the comps  Facebook
 

Have you ever heard about an Olympic sport where both the semifinal and the final take more than 2.5 hours each, with no break? Here are some suggestions to speed up the competitions, which is needed, at least until Tokyo 2020.

1. Don't untie. Pull down the rope instead.
2. Skip the 40 seconds extra viewing.
3. Use time in the final as a tie breaker.
4. Maximum time at a 15-meter-high wall: 6 minutes.
5. Inform the climbers and spectators about the time.

 
 
4 million ascents in the database  Facebook
 

The 8a scorecard was launched in 2000 and today, the ascent #4 million has been added. In total, 62 500 members have added ascents on 3 935 crags and 1 686 boulder areas, which will help you to find the best climbs in the world. You can find the best and most popular climbs in our Tick List.

 
 
Imst final  Facebook
 

 
 
Video-interview with Sean Bailey  Facebook
 

Some few days after Sean Bailey was able to send 'Biographie' 9a+ in Céüse, one of our Spanish site editors, Ignacio Sandoval Burón, had the opportunity to chat with him about such a great ascent and many more things. You can watch it now in the following video-interview:

 
 
Finals in Imst live at 19.30  (2) Facebook
 

Ramonet and Anak Verhoeven won the semi in Imst. Complete results. The finals will be live-streamed at 19.30.

 
 
Imst semifinal live 18.30  Facebook
 

 
 
9a by Daniel Fuertes in Rodellar  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Fuertes is in his best shape ever having done his fourth 9a this year, Siempre Libre in Rodellar. In the 8a ranking game, the 35-year-old is #7. (c) Iris Matamoros

- I tried the route about one month, twenty five tries more or less. The route was bolted by Dani Andrada and Luis Penin, few years ago. Dani did it in June, and now it would be the first repetition. It's a cool route!!! Very hard and technical. I liked to did it!!

 
 
8b and 8a+ onsight by Jan Vopat (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Vopat, 13, has onsighted an 8a+ and Le plaisir qui démonte 8b in Gorges du Tarn. By looking at Czech's scorecard, including 52 7c onsights, we can see that his focus is onsight climbing and that his personal redpoint best is also 8b.

8a believes that focusing on onsight is great for all kids as creating a wide grade pyramid is the best start for all youngsters and it is actually how Adam Ondra started. 8a try to stay away for promoting redpointing kids hunted by their parents.

 
 
The Path 8b+R trad by Alex Megos  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKen Etzel reports with a great picture on Instagram that Alex Megos has done a great debut of hard trad climbing by flashing Sonnie Trotter's the Path 8b+R in Lake Louise. R stands for it being run out with risk of injury. Actually, it was a 20 year old project, where Sonnie chopped the bolts before making the FA.

- At the base of the climb, we had to teach him how to place a cam. With Sonnie belaying and relaying beta, Alex embarked on the most inspiring piece of rock climbing I've ever seen. Over the next 40 minutes he calmly ticked his way through each of the bouldery cruxes, at times being 20-30ft run out over C3's, which hopefully were placed correctly. Pulling v10 over a suspect 000 absolutely blows my mind. Alex is not just a sport climber or a boulderer, he's a world class ROCK CLIMBER who will change the face of our sport.

 
 
Stefano Ghisolfi climbs Condé de Choc 9a  Facebook
 

 
 
Rocklands 2016  Facebook
 


South Africa 2016 from thomas salakenos on Vimeo.

 
 
Two 8c+'s by Jakob Kronberger (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Kronberger, who did his first 9a more than a year ago, has done two 8c+'s in Arco, Bucking Bronco and Warbeast, suggesting 8c for the latter as it went down quickly.

 
 
Munich Finals Replay  Facebook
 

 
 
9a in Céüse by Stefano Carnati (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Carnati, who was #19 in the Lead World Cup in Villars, has done his fourth 9a of the last year, Le Cadre Nouvelle Version in Céüse. "Three weekends. Three hard sections with good rests in between."

Including also his 9a+, Goldrake and having won the Youth World Champion twice, it is easy to say that he is a contender to be the most promising teenager out there. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Ashima does an 8c on the 2nd go and reaches 100 000 Instagram followers  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture(c) Parker Alec Kross from Crossroad studios

 
 
9b in Canada by Alex Megos  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos reports on Facebook that he has done his second 9b, Fightclub.

- The first day in Canada 2 weeks ago Sonnie Trotter bolted this line in fear I wouldn't have enough projects to do. Now, 2 weeks later after working on it for 5 days and even taking rest days I finally got it!!! FA of "Fightclub" 5.15b (9b), the hardest route in Canada to date and my 2nd 9b!!!

 
 
Monkey Wedding 8C by Dave Graham  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham, one of the very best rock climbers in the world of the last 15 years, reports on Facebook that he has done Monkey Wedding 8C in Rocklands. Here we present the beginning of the story.

- Last weekend I finished off one of my ultimate-global-nemisis-projects, the legendary @fred_nicole problem Monkey Wedding [8C] which chills in the center of one of Rockland's most popular sectors. Last season I tried the boulder quite a lot, for at least 12 days, but could never seem to improve my highpoint, or do better than one hang the beast, which is only ten moves long.

This year I returned partially uncertain of whether or not I could even summit this small peak, my confidence dashed by last years failure. Right off the bench I discovered more intelligent beta, resequencing my old crux, and matched my previous links. Sadly the war continued for another 6 days. I was confused by the conditions, normally cold weather is my jam, but my cursed sweaty fingers never seemed to stop sweating while I sat at basecamp, about two meters from the start of the rig, amidst all types of cold blustery weather, but it was always smarmy and humid somehow.

One day, my window presented itself; super hot and a northerly
wind, directly from the dry deserts of Africa, I felt something, potentially like an opportunity.

 
 
A Japanese double in Munich  Facebook
 

1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 4t6 4b5 - Miho Nonaka JPN 3t7 4b8
2. Jongwon Chon KOR 3t5 3b3 - Shauna Coxsey GBR 2t2 3b3
3. Alexey Rubtsov RUS 2t2 3b8 - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t2 3b3
Complete results

 
 
Coxsey and Narasaki superior World Cup winners  (1) Facebook
 

Tomoa Narasaki won the seventh and last stage of the Boulder World Cup and, in fact, his worst result during the five last World Cups is #2 place. Last year, the 20 year old Japanese was #30 and he started out 2016 being #18 and #15.

1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 465 - Shauna Coxsey GBR 560
2. Kokoro Fujii JPN 395 - Miho Nonaka JPN 460
3. Alexey Rubtsov RUS 372 - Melissa Le Neve FRA 368
4. Jongwon Chon KOR 342 - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 352
5. Rustam Gelmanov RUS 270 - Monika Retschy GER 236

Shauna Coxsey's worst result out of six events was #2. Last four years she has been 2 - 2 - 4 - 3.

 
 
Tomoa Narasaki (20) has secured the overall title. Final at 18.30.  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIf Alexey Rubtsov wins the final in Munich, he will get 407 points at the same time as Tomoa Narasaki will reach 409 if he is last and #6 in the final. Kokoro Fujii was #8 in the semifinal so he has ended up at 395 points, meaning that he will be #2 overall if Alexey does not win. It is noteworthy that the 20-year-old was #30 in the Boulder World Cup 2015. I
It is also interesting that from the semifinal France had four guys in Top-10. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Among the female, Shauna Coxsey had already secured the overall title before Munich, where she was #2 in the semifinal. Melissa Le Neve has a chance of being #2 overall if she wins and Miho Nonaka is #3 or worse. Live streaming of the final starts at 18.30.

 
 
8b+ FA by Jonathan Hörst (13)  Facebook
 


Jonathan Hörst - First Ascent of "Valkyrie" ~5.14a from Training4Climbing on Vimeo.

 
 
 
Graham on 8C missions to get a 9A  (18) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham, the one who has put up the most hard core boulders in the world, has found a mega 8C project in Fionnay where you can add a possible 8C direct start making it a potential 9A. Extremely bad weather has created more rest and motivation than ever and Dave feels in very good shape. (c) < href="http://www.fredmoix.com/"target="_blank">Fred Moix

"Working on these amazing projects, 8C rigs out of which one has a 9A start. It is incredible! We have tried so many hard boulders we were very close on but could not try more cuz they just get wet. The weather is brutally f***ed haha. It is so bad... everything is soaked again


Waiting for them to dry up Graham yesterday opened, Taste The Rainbow 8B in Trient and an escape is also some 8C's near Verbier.

 
 
8B+ and 8B FA in Champorcher by Niccolo Ceria (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolo Ceria has done the FA of The ghost ship in Champorcher, which took him seven days of effort. "Majestic rig, best personal FA and probably my hardest so far, big emotion!" More info in his blog.

Five days later he did the FA of Murano. "Champorcher starts to be an important bouldering spot of North west. The quality of rock is better than other places of the valley and there are almost 100 lines from 3th grade. Now other projects are waiting for a first ascent up there, but I would also like to go in other place like Fionnay or Barbara Refuge to change rock and environments." The 19 year old is #7 in the ranking game. (c) Marco Pelle

 
 
9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePetr Pavlicek who has done yet another trip with Adam Ondra to Flatanger, reports: "After Change 9b+ and Thors Hammer 9a+, Norway or the whole Scandinavia have 3rd route in 9a range.

During our stay in Norway in May 2013, Adam bolted several projects. 4 of them are already done, all of them super nice. 8a, 8b+, 8c+ and today this 9a. It is rather short, compared to the other lines in this incredible cave, but it has super nice hard bouldery moves and a really tricky dyno, very low above the ground, into a tiny hold which you can not see.

But this is just a little warm up, now the time for really super hard projects here comes...

 
 
8b+ by Mirko Caballero (12)  (4) Facebook
 

Mirko Caballero has done his fifth 8b+, Scarface in Smith Rocks. "Yea! So psyched to send this rig! Great powerful climbing leads to a hard sequence over the lip and then fun scary run-out face climbing to the top! Good 'ole Smiffy classic!" In the Combined Ranking Game the 12 year old is #1 for youngsters up to 19 years old!

 
 
Favresse' hardest crack in Norway  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanet Mountain reports that Nicolas Favresse has opened The Recovery Drink in Jössingfjord - Norway, giving it no grade but saying it is his hardest crack ever, so it should be at least 8c. Nicolas comments that some gear was pre-placed in order to make it easier to clean the 35 m overhanging crack after falls.

I have finally sent my long term king line crack project in Norway last Wednesday! I feel so happy and complete;) It's for sure one of the coolest line I have ever climbed and the hardest crack I have ever redpointed. (c) Jean-Louis Wertz

 
 
7C+ flash by Alexandra Ladurner  Facebook
 

Alexandra Ladurner has made a very impressive flash of Dark dog 7C+ in Zillertal which no other 8a member has flashed, included several top guys. "Totally unexpected. Maybe completely my style...great day!

 
 
9a by Mateusz Haladaj  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMateusz Haladaj has done Ciudad de dios which is his fourth 9a in Santa Linya the last 12 months and he is #5 in the ranking game.

"So happy! My desired and hardest project so far. Solid grade considering there are two 8c+ sections in a row, feels closer to 9a+… Very thanks to all the nice people I’ve met in the cave for a great atmosphere and support. Hasta proxima amigos!

 
 
8b by Maggie Smith-Odette (43)  Facebook
 

Maggie Smith-Odette has done her first 8b, Faithless in Coliseum which is very impressive as she started to climb when she was 29 years old and now is 43.
"FFA. hardest thing i've ever done. nothing better than a route that pumps the shit out of you before you get to the hard moves! ***

 
 
Two 8B's and two 8c+'s by Alfons Dornauer (19)  Facebook
 

Alfons Dornauer is in great shape having, the last week, done two 8B boulders in Zillertal and yesterday he did Reality Check 8c+ in Schleier Wasserfall. In the combined ranking game, the 19 year old is #8.

Today he added The Source 8c+ in Zillertal to his impressive Tick list. "3rd go this year, had to brush the route at first, soo dirty!!! Conditions were perfect! One of the most stunning lines in the valley! MASTERPIECE!!!

 
 
8B+ FA by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has made yet another high quality hard core test piece by The Purge 8B+ in Elkland. The 23-year-old is #1 in the ranking game which he has been for more or less for the last five years.

"Dave and I found this prow a while back and Dave gave it a try before departing to Europe. He told me it was really good, so I decided to pay it a visit and became obsessed over the movement. The full package line! Crux iron cross from left hand micro crimp to right hand slopery arête leads you into a desperate hand flip into a left hand underclin, followed by compression climbing, The topout is not easy either. I resorted to a night session to get better temps. One of my favorite lines.

 
 
Another 9a by Alexander Megos  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFrankenjura.com reports that Alexander has done Pantera 9a on his third go. An interview with his trainer, Patrick Matros, is coming up.

Regarding Markus Bock, who has put up 13 out of the 15 9a's in Frankenjura, Pantera is the #12 hardest. Alexander has previously done the two hardest during this spring. © Klettern.de

 
 
Corona 9a+ by Alexander Megos  (27) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlexander Megos has repeated Corona 9a+ which FA (2006) Markus Bock ranks #1 hardest in Frankenjura. "It was a nice route. I liked it a lot.", says Alexander. Adam Ondra made the first repeat in 2009.

Two months ago, the 19 years old made the first 9a onsight, Estato Critico and a second go ascent of La Rambla 9a+. Training article by Megos trainer for five years. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

Frankenjura.com reports that he needed 10 tries over a total of three days spread out over six months and that he did it actually twice in order to get some nice pictures.

 
 
Rainshadow 9a by Jordan Buys  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJordan Buys jumps two grades by doing his first 9a, Rainshadow in Malham which was set up by Steve McClure. "Best climbing day of my life so far!!!" (c) CAC.

Steve comments, "A great effort. Jordan has really put the time and effort in, and totally deserves to get the ascent. He's been trying it a lot and was shut down last year by a terribly wet season with awful conditions. I’m really glad that at last a Brit has climbed one of my 9’s – hopefully more will follow, there are another 6 or so out there! Rainshadow is a truly brilliant route, perhaps my best, on the best UK sport cliff.

 
 
Era Vella 9a by Michaël Fuselier  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaël Fuselier has done Chris Sharma's Era Vella in Margalef, the high class and most repeated 9a in the world. It was Mikaels first 9a for the French who has been a succesful competiton climber who a dozen times have made it into the finals in the Lead World Cup. Here his blog in French with pictures. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

 
 
8b+ sport route on trad gear by James Pearson  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Pearson has done the first repeat by A Denti Stretti 8b+ at La Balma, 18 years after the FA by Allesandro Manini and he did not use his bolts!

First James made an onsight attempt taking a gigantic fall from the final boulder, 2/3 down the route.

More info at James blog. " It’s funny how you can sometimes make your best performance when you least expect it, when you feel tired, or weak, or just don’t care any more." (c) Riky Felderer

 
 
9a+ FA by Alexander Megos  (1) Facebook
 

Alexander Megos has opened Classified 9a+ in Frankenjura. It was bolted by Carsten Seidel some ten years ago and later Christian Bindhammer rebolted it and made it an open project. Last month the 19-year old onsighted Estado Critico 9a and did La Rambla 9a+ second go in Siurana.

In total, Alexander spent three days on the 20 m project and regarding the grade he uses the 9a+ estimation that was given by both Bindhammer and Markus Bock. More info at Frankenjura.com

 
 
Mind Control 8c (+) by Barbara Raudner (40)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Raudner has done Mind Control 8c (+) in Oliana which was put up by Chris Sharma. "For me Mind Control is the most beautiful route I have ever tried. I am very grateful to have had the opportunity to climb such a fantastic line in that international spot in Oliana.

Thanks to all the nice people with who we spend a really great time there. Thanks for all the „venga, venga“!! Hope to see you all again!! Vamos!!"
full story at her website (c) Claudiaziegler

 
 
First 8b+ by Kristin Yurdin (42)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM has a nice story of Kristin Yurdin who after nearly twenty years of climbing, has done her first 8b+, Chemical Ali at Smith Rock.

The 42 year old, has been projecting it for three years but she has had limited time as she runs the climbing friendly restaurant Terrebonne Depot with up to 60 hours work.

Part of the success this year was weighted pull-ups after climbing, doing three sets of three pull-ups with 19 kg. Her husband describes also a crucial part of Kristin’s training program as finger-boarding, tread-walling, cutting stuff, grilling things, lifting heavy French fry baskets and carrying cases of wine up 12-foot ladders. Photo: Ian Yurdin

 
 
8b again by the Hörst brothers 10 & 12  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst (12) has done True Love in Red River Gorge which was his seventh 8b and harder send. "Really small holds and way reachy for my size. I agree with Mike Doyle, this is harder than God's Own Stone!"

The day after, little brother Jonathan (10) did Swingline 8b. "Great route; very complex-- it took me seven tries." Last month, the little brother did God's Own Stone which goes at 8b+ in the latest topo.

Here is a recent training article focusing on kids progress, made by their father Eric. Eric has sold more than 300 000 climbing training books and has been climbing for more than 35 yeras but when it comes to climbing hard, his sons are now 2-3 grades ahead.

 
 
8a+ trad on bolts by Caroline Ciavaldini  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Ciavaldini blogs about her trad send of the bolted Grazie Ricky 8a+ in Cadarese. "It is a bastion of trad in the Italian Alps and a place of battles between pro-bolts and Trad-addicts. I must say that this granite cliff cut with perfect cracks fits quite well to placing friends!

In short, I was scared to death, but jumped into the route with one thing in my head: in Trad, being scared doesn’t help at all. If you know where to place the protection, you just have to focus on the climb and place your gear quickly and well! Easier said than done you would tell me? Oh no, when I do Trad, there is a little "click", I go into robot mode. Once my decision taken, I climb, and even though I'm afraid somewhere inside of me, it does not interfere with my climbing. Quite a magical moment!

 
 
'Estato Crítico', 9a by André Neres  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAndré Neres (pic© Ignacio Sandoval Burón) has done his first 9a, Estado Critico in Siurana. "Epic journey for me. Proud to be able to deal with the time pressure... It was a team sending, for sure, thanks to all involved! :)"

What are your thoughts from the amazing 9a onsight by Alexander Megos? "Well, I think Alex OS was just astonishing. It wasn't "just" an 9a onsight, it's a really hard OS. I mean the route is not the best one for OS. It's technical and demanding in many aspects, a quite intense boulder problem and after power resistance where there are no good holds, you can't just stop and watch carefully what to do.

 
 
9a FA by Chris Zehani (38)  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Zehani has done his fourth 9a FA, Riders on the storm in Cevennes. "Such a wonderful line very diverse in difficulty, holds and overhangs. To summarize
: the perfect line (hard, beautiful and natural)."
Read full comment. By looking at the trend diagram we can clearly see that the 38 year old is improving year by year.

 
 
8b+ (c) onsight by Evgeniya Malamid  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEvgeniya Malamid has onsighted Los Humildes pa Casa 8b+ in Oliana. "It was just the last route of the day and I wasn't going to onsight it."

It was set up as an 8c which some still think it is although the start is changed. The are less than a handful female that have onsighted 8b+ before including an 8c by Charlotte Durif.

The last year Evgeniya was #9 in the Lead World Cup. "This year I'm going to compete in the World Cup and the European Championship, now climbing on rocks is for pleasure and for training before the season!" (c) Heiko Wilhelm

 
 
8a and 7c+ OS by Mirko Caballero (12)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Cabalero has done his third 8a onsight, Big Burly in Red River Gorge and the 12 year old is #2 in the junior combined ranking. " It feels good to be back on the rock after my broken finger.

I started climbing very early as my parents are climbers too. I love bouldering, but started to rope climb as well in 2011. I train in the Gym, but just to get strong. My passion is climbing outdoors, meeting new people and climbing with them.

 
 
8b+ OS and more by Sachi Amma  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Amma, who did Era Vella 9a last week, has continued showing great form onsighting Migrayana Profundo 8b+ in Siurana. The Lead World Cup winner 2012 has also done Coma Sent Pere 8c+ second go and some other impressive sends in Siurana. The picture by Eddie Gianelloni is from the 8b+ onsight.

 
 
8c+ onsight by Magnus Midtbö in Rodellar  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbö finished a six week trip in Spain, where most of the time was spent projecting a wet 9b, by doing an epic onsight by Cosi van tutte, 8c+ in Rodellar. There are only four other guys who have onsighted at this level including Alexander Megos recent 9a.

The adventure to reach the crag included 200 m swimming in 10 degrees water against the stream. "After getting to the other side, I could only wait for the boat to come with my warm clothes, hoping that this was it, and that there would be no more swimming. Luckily there wasn’t, but on several occasions we had to walk up the river with water above our waists." Check out the amazing full story including more great pics by Henning Wang

In 2011, Magnus was #4 in the world championship and he is also #4 in the 8a ranking game.

 
 
To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ by Drew Ruana (13)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRudy Ruana reports through Facebook that his son Drew Ruana has done the classic To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ in Smith Rocks. This was the fifth 8b+ by the 13 year old who did the first one year ago.

To Bolt is the first American 8b+ and it was put up by Jean-Baptiste Tribout in 1986 at the time when bolting was rather controversial. It is known to be very technical and mentally challenging being 37 m long, dead vertical and no rests.

"It was supposed to be a work session. Ian Yurdin encouraged him up...talking him up to the next "good" hold. Drew probably has 20 tries spread over a year total. Pretty grueling route for him. Its not his favorite style of climbing, " says the prod father and the pic was taken by mother Christine.

 
 
Dan Mirsky checks in with an 8c+ FA  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDan Mirsky has done the FA of Solid Gold 8c+ in Cathedral. "So pscyched about this route that I started an 8a account :) It is 'the line' for sure. In my opinion the straightest, most direct and most difficult way to climb Golden, It cuts out all the big rests and tackles the whole cave.

I am 30 years old and am currently living and traveling and climbing in the US with my girlfriend katy dannenberg in an airstream trailer. We spent this winter season down in Southern Utah living in the desert and climbing at the VRG and Cathedral. Before that I was living in CO. I have been climbing for 11 years. I have been a serious sport climber since 2006, I have lived near and spent lots of time climbing in Rifle and have travelled in the US fairly extensively."
Interview at DPM (c) Dave Pegg/Wolverinepublishing

 
 
Late blooming in climbing  Facebook
 

In most other physical sports, you reach your peak performance in between the age of 25 - 30. In rock climbing we do not yet know when you can expect to be in the best shape of your life but it seems to be not before you are 35 - 40. However, there are many 40+ who keep progressing and it just might be that if you continue to train as hard and intensive as being a youngster, some can continue to peak until they are 50 years.

Would it not be nice if Chris Sharma did his first 9c+ when he has turned 50 :)

 
 
Era Vella 9a by Sachi Amma  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Amma has done Era Vella 9a in Margalef on his sixth try. Last year, Sachi won the Leas World Cup. (c) Eddie Gianelloni

 
 
Supernova 9a 2:Go by Said Belhaj  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSaid Belhaj blogs about an unexpected 2:Go send of Supernova in Vadiello which was his fifth 9a.

"I had planned at least 3 weeks on the route so hopefully it would turn out ok in the end. As my shape felt so bad I instead worked the route VERY well, planning to attack once I felt a bit better.

This was for the me a new step in red-pointing, climbing so perfectly was definitely the key to success. No expectations another. I thought this route would take ages (when dogging the routes before the burn the crux had felt harder than ever) but sometimes unexpected things happen

 
 
Jungle Speed 9a by Geir Söderin  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGeir Söderin has after an 18 day long battle done his first 9a, Jungle Speed in Siurana. "You can say what you want about grades but sometimes they can be extremely important :) Check his blog in Swedish.

Geir's continuous progress is something that can motivate and inspire other guys who did not reach the "wonderkid" categorisation. In 2006, he did his first 8b being 20 years old and then he has progressed one grade every two years. Geir has been climbing since he was 3 years old and always been #1 for his age in Sweden.

What is your advice for continuous long term progress?
The most important thing is to continue to push you out of the comfort zone. This is of course something that is not easy follow and some more practical advice is to boulder more. For me the best training is through indoor bouldering. 18 months ago, I set my 9a goal. Last summer I tried some 9a's and this spring I have spent a month here trying different ones. Hopefully I can do one more as I plan to stay around in my car another month.

 
 
Hukkataival does Bügeleisen 8B+  (15) Facebook
 

Nalle Hukkataival reports on Facebook that he has done the third ascent of Klem Loskot's Bügeleisen 8B+ in Malatal from 2001. Video from the ascent by Dominik Preis.

"Just topped out Bügeleisen!!!! YESSSSSS!!! Probably the most epic battle I've ever had with any boulder! Conditions ranged from bad to utter shit and I got sick for several days.. So HAPPY I managed to pull it off at the very last moment!!!!!

 
 
8B by Samuel Ometz (17)  Facebook
 

Samuel Ometz has done his sixth 8B and harder the last month by General Dissaray 8B in Brione. "Hard. Powerful. So happy to do that one! some of the best moves". The 17 year old has quickly moved to #10 in the ranking game.

 
 
8b+ by Moritz Perwitzschky (13)  Facebook
 

Moritz Perwitzschky has done his first 8b+ Speed Baby in Margalef. During the last two weeks he has also done three 8b's. In 2013, he has also done his first 8A boulder traverse.

 
 
8a+ OS by Mikel Linacisoro (12) and Àlex Hernández (14)  Facebook
 

Another two Spaniard kids have reached the 8a+ onsight mark. Mikel Linacisoro has onsighted Las Clochas de Targa in Chulila and Àlex Hernández has onsighted Mon Dieu in Oliana as well as redpointed T1 Full Equip 8c. Both kids have had an extreme progress the last year and are part of the new big kids generation setting new standards ever year.

 
 
Kai Lightner (13) does Southern Smoke 8c+: UPDATE  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM reports that Kai Lightner has done Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Over the past month, Kai and his mother have taken two trips to RRG and one to NRG and in total done three 8b+.

The grade progress for the kids has exploded during the last year and there are now at least a handful youngsters at the same level as Adam Ondra was, just turning teenager. The youngest person who has done an 8c+ is Ashima Shiraishi (11) also by Southern Smoke.

Profile video of the also very succesful 13 year old competition climber. (c) Elodie Sarocco who has published a nice gallery on her FB page.

 
 
8B+ FA by James Webb  Facebook
 

James Webb has had a very productive trip in Switzerland that finshed of in the best possible way by doing the FA of La Rustica 8B+ in Valle Bavona.

"One of the coolest projects i've ever climbed. Big thanks to Carlo for showing me this thing. Climbed it basically on my last day, last literal try. Couldn't ask for a better finish to my trip. Back to the USA tuesday.

 
 
Fabelita 8c by Muriel Sarkany (38)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany has done Fabelita 8c in Santa Linya and she did on her last try on her last day during a one week trip. The 38 year old has had a nice progress on the rock since she stopped competing in 2010.

In total she has won 17 World Cups. Five times she won Overall and in 2003 she was the World Champion. During her competition career she was for most of the time fully sponsored by the Belgian sport committee.

"Now I'm working as E9 representant for Benelux ;-) It's a nice job because it's great clothes. I don't know yet what I'm gone do exactly in the next months except trying new projects and have fun on rocks.

 
 
8c Fish Eye by Anak Verhoeven (16)  (39) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimb2climb.be reports that Anak Verhoeven has done her first 8c, Fish Eye in Oliana. Anak started to climb when she was four and the last three years she won the Euro Youth Cup and last year she was #22 in the world champion.

 
 
A Muerte 9a (8c+) by Felix Neumärker  Facebook
 

Felix Neumärker who recently did La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana has done A Muerte for which he gives a personal grade of 8c+. He did the same thing for Chocolate Caliente suggesting 8c. During the last two seven weeks, Felix has done seven 8c+ to 9a+ in Siurana.

 
 
9a and 8c+ FA by Ramonet  Facebook
 

Ramón Julian Puigblanque has put up La Parada de los Monstruos 9a in Montanejos and El noi de Manlleu 8c+ in Montserrat. During the last three years Ramonet has been the #1 climber in the world performing on both rock and in competitions.

 
 
8A+ flash by Domen Škofic (18)  (14) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic has flashed Ganymede Takeover 8A+ in Cresciano and fell on the last move on The Dagger 8B (+), before he did it on his third try. "I would belief that The Dagger is 8A+ if somebody would say that." The 18 year old also did Confessions 8B (+) in ten tries over 45 minutes.

Last year, Domen won all five Euro Youth Cups and made it to the finals once in the WC. In 2013, he plans to do all the WC's and also the bouldering in Log Dragomer. In the 8a Combined Juior Game, he is a superior #1.

 
 
9a again by Mateusz Haladaj  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMateusz Haladaj has done his seventh 9a, Direct Open your mind in Santa Linya and he goes to #6 in the ranking game. (c) Maciek Lesser Gajewski

"Finally done, SO HAPPY!!! The hardest route of mine, personal grade 9a/+. Not my style. So good, has every type of movement, simply great sort of climbing. Took me more than one year, over 200 tries, had an accident on it… Big thing. Thanks for all the friends for support and never ending belay

 
 
8C FA "The Kingdom" gets Traversi to #1 in the game  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has done his fifth 8C during the last six months by setting up The Kingdom in Brione.

"The long standing Vecchio left project. Many days of work. Hardest 5 moves I've ever linked together and it's perfectly my style. Shouldery moves, high feet, and very tense climbing. Last day in Swiss and couldn't be more psyched to finally piece this one together.

It was all caught on video for the new film that I have been working on called "Heritage" which documents my experiences and climbs in Swiss over the last 6 months. Should be available in the next few months.

 
 
8c by Johanna Ernst  Facebook
 

Johanna Ernst, the World Cup winner 2008 (being 16) and in 2009 she won the WC again and also become the world champion, has done Fish Eye 8c in Oliana on her 3 Go. Last year she did her first 8c+ and she was #3 in the WC.

 
 
Megos does La Rambla 9a+ and A Muerte 9a both 2nd Go  (17) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture19 year old Alexander is about to take climbing into a new era and yesterday he did La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana on his second go. Dani Fuertes reports that apparently he fell just two moves before the easier finish on his flash attempt, getting beta from Felix Neumärker. Alexander also did A Muerte 9a, 2nd go.

It should be noted that this was the first 9a+ 2nd go, and three days ago he did the first 9a onsight ever.

 
 
8c+ by Piotr Schab (16)  Facebook
 

Piotr Schab has done Coma Sant Pere 8c+ in Margalef. The 16 year old is #8 in the ranking game and he has previously done three 8c+ and Era Vella 9a.

 
 
8B flash by Niccolò Ceria (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolò Ceria has had a good start on his trip to Västervik where he in almost freezing conditions flashed The Hourglas SDS 8B. "Nice moment! Used the logical sit start with undercling and the lower sidepull for the left. In this way, everyone can start from the sit, although it adds a move to the original one. really cool line, I'm not sure about the grade, it could be an hard 8A+ or lower-end 8B. hard to say on the flash attempt."

Nico also did do two 8A's out of which one he says was "basically a flash" as it shares an easy top out of a 7A he had done earlier. It should be noted that all grades given by Nico is one or two grades lower than the original ones.

 
 
8B+ during the night by Chris Webb Parsons  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons has done Dandelion Mind 8B+ in Peak District and it was a mini adventure. "Amazing night session.
We headed off on an adventure, walked through 1 meter deep snow with head torches and abseiled into the crag to find it dry ;) 3 sessions off effort and I managed to climb this amazing problem at 11pm. Unbelievable good climbing, one of the best. Off to work on an oil rig for 1 month now so good timing."
(c) Panda Fenemore

  2017
2016
2015
2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004


Videos
2017
2016
2015
2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
Next Page ->