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Youth World Champions - Combined  Facebook
 

Here are the six Combined winners of the Youth Worlds including their overall relative score and their Speed ranking. The relative score includes only the competitors that compete in Combined.

97: Sascha Lehman SUI 20/19 - Margo Hayes USA 12/15
99: Arsene Duval FRA 14/26 - Elena Krasovskaia RUS 11/9
01: Sam Avezou FRA 6/11 - Brooke Raboutou USA 8/17

Based on the complete results we can see that none of the 18 juniors getting a podium in Speed where among the Top-12 overall. This shows once again that with the current Combined format it will be very hard for Speed specialists to be able to qualify to Tokyo.

 
 
IFSC presents wrong Combined results  Facebook
 

In the forum Nikolina Marinova has brought attention to the fact that it seems that IFSC have presented wrong Combined results of the Youth World Championships.

"12.7.3. b) If two or more competitors are tied following the calculation of the arithmetic sum, the tie shall be broken by comparing the ‘best’ result achieved by each tied competitor. If following this the tie remains unbroken, then the second best results shall be compared. If following a comparison of all
results the tie remains unbroken, then the head-to-head performance of any competitors remaining tied shall be used to break the tie."


In total, Nikolina has found six errors including that Filip Schenk lost his bronze because IFSC did include more people than just the Combined competitors when searching for their "best" results. Complete ranking.

Furthermore, while presenting the male juniors result, IFSC has based it on the semifinals instead of finals!

 
 
Russia and Italy dominate Speed  Facebook
 

97: Ludovico Fossali ITA 6.43 - Karina Gareeva RUS 9.10
99: Gian Luca Zodda ITA - 7.09 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS 8.47
01: Almaz Algaev RUS 7.35 - Daria Kan RUS 8.69
Complete results

 
 
The Golden Ticket 8c+ by Michaela Kiersch  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaela Kiersch reports on her Instagram account that she has done her third 8c+ in Red River Gorge, The Golden Ticket 8c+. "Hard Proudest accomp- lishment to date! Amazing climb, big moves, double dyno!! FFA"

The former 9a route became famous after Ondra's onsight a few years ago. This was the third weekend during the last month where the full time student drove seven hours to the Red River Gorge. In the 8a ranking game, she is #3. (c) Andy Wickstrom

 
 
David Mason on Bewilderness (8B+), Peak District.  Facebook
 


Bewilderness (8B+) - Badger Cove from David Mason on Vimeo.

 
 
Nine pitches done by Ondra on the Dawn Wall  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePavel Blazek reported on Instagram that at 5.13 AM, Adam Ondra was already up at pitch five. One hour later, they reported that seven pitches had been done and that the plan was to do another two pitches. Here are the grades for the first nine trad pitches: 7b, 7c+, 8a+, 7b, 7c, 8a+, 8b+, 8b, 8a+

You can find Ondra's report here.
"First day, good day. 9 pitches in the bag after 6 hours of climbing. Conditions were not the best, but I could still reach the goal of the day. Now hopefully we will survive the heat on the portaledge and take a 28 hours of rest until we continue tomorrow, starting with pitch 10."

8b+, 8a+, 8c, 8a+ are coming up next and then Adam will rest one day continuing with the cruxes on day four; 9a, 9a and 8c+. After that there are still 16 more pitches to go, starting with an 8b+.

 
 
The Lappnor project trailor  Facebook
 


The Lappnor Project Trailer from Blue Kangoo Films on Vimeo.

 
 
Nordic Summer in Flatanger  Facebook
 


Nordic Summer in Flatanger from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
Ondra's fast and ambitious plan for The Dawn Wall  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra shares his plan for the Dawn Wall and he will start pushing early on Monday morning, belayed by Pavel Blazek, who has never been on a MP before. They will be accompanied by the legend Heinz Zak taking pictures.

"Tomorrow going for the push! First two days of heat and climbing the first 13 pitches, then one restday of rain and then perfect conditions for the crux pitches on day 4. Starting tomorrow at 3 AM to get done as many pitches as possible before the remorseless sun hits the wall."

During the FA, Caldwell and Jorgesson managed to do the crux pitches after nine respectively 14 days.

 
 
Jorg Verhoeven freeclimbs Dihedral Wall  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJorg Verhoeven has freeclimbed Dihedral Wall 8b+ in Yosemite after 5 days of effort. This is the second free ascent of this route. Tommy Caldwell, the first who freeclimbed it, commented that it has the hardest pitch in Yosemite apart from The Dawn Wall. This is the second freeclimbed bigwall for Jorg in Yosemite after his ascent of The Nose 8b last year. (c's) Jon Glassberg

Jorg was accompanied by his partner Katharina Saurwein, who just before Jorg's ascent did her first hard MP by Final Frontier, a ten-pitch-long 8a. Both of them have been among the best competition climbers for the last ten years. Jorg won the Lead World Cup in 2008 and this year he was #3 in a Boulder WC and Katha won one Lead event and was second in a Bouldering WC in 2008. Last year she was #3 in Eiroe Bouldering Championship.

 
 
7c+ OS by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (11)  Facebook
 

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who has previously redpointed an 8c, has onsighted his first 7c+, Mirtoglicerina in Margalef.

It should be noted that in order to motivate youngsters to do more onsight climbing, we will more or less stop reporting redpoints for kids under 15.

 
 
IFSC do not present the results for their Olympic Sport again  Facebook
 

It took IFSC several days after the World Championship in Paris to present the Combined results and for the Youths, it is the same again.

Here is the only thing that they have presented so far:

"Two months after becoming Combined world champion, Elena Krasovskaia of Russia was crowned Combined world youth champion after qualifying for the Finals in all three disciplines. Garnbret also competed in Speed -­ the first time this season -­ and finished ahead of Russian Luiza Emeleva. Raboutou claimed the title in Youth B, followed by Austrian Celina Schoibl and Rogora. Finally, Hayes placed 15th in Speed to top her third podium! Andrea Kümin of Switzerland and Russian Iuliia Panteleeva joined her on the podium.

For the Males, Avezou also climbed in all three Finals for the unanimous Combined victory. Colombo and Martin rounded out the Youth B podium. Arsène Duval of France and Italian Pietro Biagini climbed in the Lead Finals of Youth A and placed first and third. Finishing second was Pan Yufei of China, who received warm applause from his home crowd. Although Lehmann missed each Finals, his steady performance earned him the Combined win. British Bouldering finalist William Bosi finished in second and German Ruben Firnenburg placed third."

 
 
Bouldering Semifinal highlights from Youth World's  Facebook
 

 
 
Two 8c+'s by Anak Verhoeven  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports that Anak Verhoeven, #2 in the Lead World Cup 2016, has done two 8c+'s in Siurana, La reina mora and Broadway. (c) Seb Richard

 
 
FONTAINEBLEAU Six arêtes from La Forêt  Facebook
 

 
 
Youth Boulder World Championships  (5) Facebook
 

97: Margo Hayes USA - Borna Cujic CRO
99: Janja Garnbret SLO - Keita Dohi JPN
01: Nathan Marco FRA - Ashima Shiraishi USA
Complete results

1. Miho Nonaka, #2 in the World Cup 2016, was just fourth among the juniors.
2. Most superior winners were Margo Hayes and Janja Garnbret. They were also together with Ashima Shiraishi, winners in both categories.
3. Japan was the best country overall followed by USA.
4. Most competitors did actually do zero boulders in the first round.

 
 
Sachi Amma thinks Leonidio will become a future destination  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture- The hospitality and scenery are one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced. Coming alone from Japan and driving along side the coast and just meet so nice people, have touched by heart.

The climbing is really nice and the rock quality is high. All the four sectors I have tried have been unique in different ways with aesthetic lines. I think Leonidio has a great potential to be a big climbing destination.


Sachi Amma was invited to be a part of the first Leonidio Climbing Festival and to make a short presentation and answer questions. Within minutes, the audience understands that this is really down to earth guy answering in a very personal way, which makes people laugh.

- I want to know the secret of the people living in Leonidio. In Japan people do not show so much hospitality. I want to know the secret from this trip.
- Do you want us to set up a meeting with a local girl? (The major is asking).
- That would be nice since I do not have a girlfriend.

- Do you think I could also climb 9a if I started to scream?
- That is a nice one :) Which grade do you climb now? You know when I was young my idols were Chris and Adam and they scream a lot so I also started screaming but I think you can get the same animal power just by breathing intensively.

 
 
More bonuses are needed in Bouldering comps  Facebook
 

The youth World Championships in China are just another example showing that IFSC should include more bonuses in the Bouldering competitions. Almost half of the competitors did not make a single Boulder in the qualification or the direct semifinal. Imagine travelling around the globe and answering questions once you are back home.

- How did it go?
- I got one bonus.
- What do you mean?
- I did not top out any of the five boulders but I reached midways on one.
- So you were among the lasts?
- No almost half the guys had that result.
- Sounds stupid and boring travelling around the globe for that?
- YES!

 
 
beta.8a.nu resposive mobile site  Facebook
 

Now you can check the News, your scorecard, your friends' latest ascents, all Crag Ticklists and find driving directions to the crags on the new responsive website beta.8a.nu.

 
 
Female are relatively poor at onsight and flash  Facebook
 

In comparison with other physical sports, female climbers' performances are really close to the male's. The best example is Ashima Shiraishi and there are probably about 100 female who do at least an 8c Route or an 8A Boulder every year. However, when it comes to onsight and flash, female are relatively poor and it is rare that we see 8b onsights or 7C flashes.

Nice exceptions to this are the 8a ranking game onsight/flash leaders, Laura Rogara (15), with eleven 8a to 8b onsights, and Karoline Sinnhuber, with seven 7C to 8A flashes.

Being in the top-10 female boulderers in the world you need to do ten 8A's yearly but at the same time, you just seem to need to flash ten 7B+ or harder Boulder problems. When it comes to Routes, it is probably enough to onsight ten 7c's to be in the top-10, which seems easier than to redpoint ten 8b+'s or harder.

 
 
Ondra is planning to start the big push on Monday  (2) Facebook
 

Pavel Blazek reports on Instagram, "As of right now the plan is to go back to the pitch #3 tomorrow - there was some surprisingly hard move - then have two days rest and start the push on Monday."

Pavel also says he has a pulled muscle in the back so he is not sure if he can do it without not slowing Adam too much.

 
 
9a FA by Thomas P. O'Halloran  Facebook
 

Thomas P. O'Halloran has done his second 9a FA in Blue Mountains, Kitten Mittens. "So good. First route I ever bolted. Cool to see the process to the end!"

 
 
Lead Finals Juniors in China  Facebook
 

 
 
Lead Finals Youth B in China  Facebook
 

 
 
First day of the Youth World Championship  Facebook
 

 
 
9a FA by Ralf Grabowski (38)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRalf Grabowski has done his first 9a with the FA of Walk the Plank, which is a link up of two Toni Lamprect's routes (8b/8b+ and 8c/8c+). It is probably one of the best lines in Kochel and combines climbing on for the northern alps untypical big pockets, far moves and great rock with the beautiful beech trees of the spot.

The 38-year-old has previously done one 8c+ and more than a handful 8c's and more than 250 8a and harder. It took him some 50 sessions to take his FA down.
Here is a nice video made by Pirmin Bertle.

 
 
Heavy rains in China - male Boulder competition cancelled  Facebook
 

Heavy rain during the third day of the Youth World Championships in Guangszhou, China forced the origanizers to stop the male Boulder qualification. Plans have been made to run the qualification on Saturday. The female competed in Speed and Russia got all the golds where 17-year-old Elizaveta Ivanova had the best time with 8.60.

 
 
Ondra is ready, 3 weeks after - "Adam never really trad climbs, I've never been on MP"  (19) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is resting for the big push on the 32 pitches of The Dawn Wall, half out of which are 8a+ or harder, including four 8b+'s, one 8c, one 8c+ and two 9a's.

What is actually not so well-known is that Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgesson did a team ascent FA, meaning that they just needed to top rope half of the pitches, i.e swing leads. However, as the two 9a's were traverses, both led them and then Jorgesson lead the 8c+ but Caldwell opted for an 8c loop variation. In total, Caldwell and Jorgesson spent 16 days up the 1 000 meter the Dawn Wall to do the first team ascent. Earlier on they had spent six years projecting the line.

Adam will not have the benefit of climbing half of the pitches on top rope which makes his ascent harder as most of the time he will be protected only on trad gear.

Adam is accompanied by Pavel Blazek who reported on his Instagram three weeks ago:

"We both find it quite funny - Adam never really trad climb, I've never been on multipitch climb, neither of us ever had to jug up or set the fix ropes on big wall ... The learning curve is bit steep :) :) :)"

 
 
8B by Mattias Braach-Maksvytis  Facebook
 

 
 
Onsights up to 8b by Jan Vopat (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Vopat has had a great week in Kalymnos where he onsighted six routes 8a to Por la socidad con mujeres satisfeches 8b.

In the 8a onsight game ranking, the 13 year old is #11. Next year the Czech is old enough to compete in the Youth World Champions.

 
 
Youth Lead World Championships  (5) Facebook
 

97: Margo Hayes USA - Simon Lorenzi BEL
99: Janja Garnbret SLO - Giorgio Bendazzoli ITA
01: Ashima Shiraishi USA - Sam Avezou FRA
Complete results

1. Slovenia took all medals in female -99 and their fourth participant was #5. This must be the greatest domination by a country in the Youth Worlds. Among the male -99, Italy had three guys in the Top-8.

2. Ashima Shiraishi topped all four routes but also Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes, Same Avezou and Giorgio Bendazzoli won all four rounds.

3. Simon Lorenzi was the biggest sensational winner - he was #21 after the two qualification routes.

4. USA and Japan with eight finalists were the two best countries. Surprisingly, bad results for Austria, Spain and Germany.

 
 
Another pitch for Ondra at the Dawn Wall  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra
comments on his Instagram that he has just freeclimbed the pitch 10 (8b+) of the Dawn Wall. It seems that his final attempt is getting closer and closer.

"One more day on the wall;-) Pitch 10 5.14a in the bag. For me the hardest pitch besides the two traverses (14 and 15)"

 
 
Children should focus more on onsight and doing volumes  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra and Alex Megos had an onsight focus as juniors and they have become, without injuries, the best in the world. On the other hand, we hear about more juniors getting finger injuries at the same time as they are focused on projecting hard, redpointing or competing in Bouldering.

Sometimes, 8a actually do not report about remarkable redpoints by kids if it turns out that they have been projecting it for too long.

In practice, it is easier for a kid to find and redpoint an 8a route where being short or having thin fingers actually helps than onsight a 7a. The problem is of course that once you have done an 8a, it may feel very disappointing to fall on a 7a onsight.

For adults, you should have a wide grade pyramid based on factor three at least but for a children are at risk if the factor is below five. So have you not done five 7c+'s and onsighted five 7b's yet, you should not go for an 8a project!

It should be noted that the original idea with the 8a ranking game is to count the Top-10 climbs and give good bonuses for onsights and flashes, in order to reduce the interest of just working on some few long term redpoint projects. Here is our new onsight/flash ranking. Juniors that are doing great also in this category are:
Jan Vopat, Laura Rogara and Oriane Bertone.

 
 
Vertics and other ways to keep warm  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe best conditions are normally said to be around zero degrees and sunny or a couple degrees warmer with no sun. On the other hand, cold fingers will not make you climb anything. The best tipson how to keep warm taking advantage of the prime conditions is actually to wear Vertic sleeves or something similar to keep your forearm warm.

The blood from your heart is 37 degrees warm and the best way to keep this temperature until it reaches the non protected fingers is by having an extra layer all the way to the wrist. This in combination with an open glove will have the best impact making you able to climb harder in lower temperatures.

Here are more tips on how to keep warm, other than wearing a lot of clothing and being active while resting, especially doing the windmill.

1. Warm up inside
2. Put your gloves and shoes inside your clothing
3. Use a bigger pair of shoes so you can wear socks
4. Electric or chemical heater that can be put in your chalk bag

 
 
8c MP by Edu Marin  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdu Marin has made the FA of the five-pitch-long Tarragó Plus 8c located in Montserrat, which was the first playground crag for both Edu and his father, Novato, who belayed him.

Tarragó was first freed by the Pou brothers in 2013 as an 8b+ and first Edu repeated the original line but two days later he opted for combining the two crux pitches and creating a 55 meter 8c with lots of ropedrag. "After freeing Tarragó, I thought that it would be best to join pitch 4 (8a) and pitch 5 (8b+), as the anchor was situated in the middle of a very difficult sequence. It was logical to me to rest after, not during that crux."

"It is one of the most amazing routes I have ever climbed, aesthetically perfect, very aerial and exposed."

 
 
9a again by Gonzalo Larrocha  Facebook
 

Gonzalo Larrocha has done his third 9a in 2016, Seleccio Natural in Santa Linya.

"The power of the multi- execution. I guess that it can be soft in its grade
But I was struggled in those two moves."

 
 
The Dawn Wall - the most impressive FA. Ondra is in another league.  (14) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSeeing how much effort Adam Ondra put into working on this line and the comment he has already made on the Dawn Wall, it is clear that Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgesson's FA sticks out as probably the most impressive FA in the world.

Two months prior to their 19-day FA in 2015, Tommy reported at Facebook, "Oh my goodness!!! After six years I finally sent this beast of a pitch. Inspired by Keven's fight to the death near miss.This officially means all the hard individual pitches have been redpointed. I am so psyched my hands are shaking!"

Clearly, any of Adam Ondra's three 9b+ FAs and Nalle Hukkataival's recent 9A FA are also at the top when it comes to vision and dedication but it can not be compared with guys spending 100+ days up on portaledges to find out that it is possible - after six years of work!

On the other hand, if Adam Ondra can repeat the Dawn Wall after just two months in Yosemite and just about three months after winning the Lead World Championship and being #2 in Bouldering, the Czech will set another new standard in the history of climbing.

A month ago, Adam onsighted a super steep 8c+ and two weeks ago he prepared himself for the Dawn wall by onsighting more steep Routes in Jailhouse and doing some hard Boulders in LCC. Does there exist any other sport athlete in the world that can combine explosive power with ultra endurance like the 23-year-old? (c) Pavel Blazek

 
 
Adam Ondra is getting ready for the push  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTendon has the latest update from the Dawn Wall. It seems that Adam Ondra is almost ready for going for his big push. (c) Pavel Blazek

"We had two busy day on the wall, but extremely important motivating ones! At first, I tried the pitch 14, where I still had no idea about what to do in the last boulder problem. After a little session, I could finally do the moves and soon after I gave it a go, but I realized that my beta for the intro moves on the last boulderproblem did not work. It took me a lot of time, skin, frustration and swearing to finally find a satisfying sequence, but I was exhausted and my skin thrashed. I still gave it a another that night, slipped on the first boulderproblem but then continued to the anchor. Which gave me a lot of confidence that next time it should work out.

Second day, I was incredibly lucky to get overcast day, so I could make a lot of work. At first, we took some pics with Heinz Zak in pitch 14 (5.14d), then went down and sent pitch 8 (5.13d) and toproped pith 7 (5.14a). After lunch, I went for pitch 11 (5.13c) and linked the whole crux sequence, then linked the whole crux in pitch 12 (5.14b). Then we went down for toprope session on pitch 10 (5.14a) which is always desperately wet in the dark, but I still made it with one hang in toprope. To finish the day, I just re-checked the moves on pitch 9 (5.13c).

It seems like I need yet to work a bit more on pitches 10, 12 and 13 (5.13b) and then pitches 1-6 (only 5.12b to 5.13c range) and I would be ready to go for the push. Can't wait!!!"

 
 
Climbing the OVNI in Mexico  Facebook
 


Climbing the OVNI from Santiago de Alba on Vimeo.

 
 
Trad climbing in Jordan  Facebook
 


Three Savages Trad Climbing Jordan Full Movie from Michael Seidl on Vimeo.

 
 
Leonidio Smart Climbing Festival, November 10-13  Facebook
 

The Greek coastal town of Leonidio is holding its first Climbing Festival on November 10-13 using a smart and simple tool for their open Marathon event: climbers can register in pairs, climb all day long and mark their route ascents in the Vertical-Life Climbing App on their smartphones. Points are counted automatically according to the 8a.nu ranking game.

This new, digital system has already been used on different events, like Melloblocco and the Kalymnos Festival. It has proven to be helpful and fun for both event organizers and climbers. Through the app, the participants can access the festival topos and get real-time info on what others are climbing. With the Vertical-Life app and 800 routes to climb, the first major climbing festival in Leonidio promises to become an awesome event!

App download: Vertical-Life. More info Leonidio Climbing Festival

 
 
William Bosi (17) doing Hubble 9a (8c+)  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Boulder motivation  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
9a FA by Jakob Schubert and a 9a+ and 9b in the making  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert, one of the best competition climbers in the world of the last ten years, has done the FA of Kein Licht Kein Schatten 9a in Ötztal and he reports on Facebook with a great picture from Wilhelm Heiko.

"The special thing about this route is that you need to climb a 7c to get to the ledge where the route starts. It's a very beautiful spot with a great view into the valley"

Now Jakob has travelled to Spain and reports, "First two days were fun and succesful, could do all the moves on 'Joe Mama' 9a+ in Oliana and 'Stoking the Fire' 9b in Santa Linya."

 
 
Leonidio Festival updates 10-13/11  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThere are now 800 routes in Leonidio and the first climbing festival will take place there next weekend. As to celebrities, Sachi Amma and Angela Eiter have been invited and there will be an open marathon run by Vertical-Life. Leonidio is located 3 hours south east of Athens and 1 hour north of Kyparissi which many of the festival participants will visit in the following week.

 
 
8B flash by Michael Piccolruaz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichael Piccolruaz, who was #2 in a Boulder World Cup this spring and who has flashed two 8A+'s in 2016, has flashed Wrestling with an alligator 8B in Malatal.

"I knew it would suit my stile quite well and so I whatched some videos to get the right beta. On friday after the warm up I wasn't too sure if I should try it that day because I was quite tired and my skin was quite sore. But some guys of the team were trying the boulder and got me motivated to give it a go. Eventually everything worked out perfectly how I had planed it and so I got into a kind of flow and climbed trough all the moves perfectly."

 
 
Ondra is getting confident on the Dawn Wall  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDirectly after topping out the Dawn Wall, Adam Ondra, continued working out pitch #14 and reports on Instagram.

"Great progress on pitch 14, but unfortunately no send. Took a lot of skin to finally figure out the mystery (3rd and last boulder of the pitch), but I finally have a satisfying beta at least. On my last go, with no skin and really tired, I slipped on the first boulder, but continued straight away to the anchor. I am quite confident that next time it should work out. And next time I think it will be on the push.

Photo @pavelblazek (check out his insights from the wall on his instagram too, highly recommended)

 
 
Adam Ondra tops out the Dawn Wall  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra comments on his Black Diamond blog that he has topped out the Dawn Wall after two more days on the wall. National Geographic has also presented an interview with Adam. (c) Heinz Zak

It has been a productive 48 hours on El Cap. After the first night and ‘climbing’ pitch 15, I rested the whole day, slept as much as possible and at 10:30 p.m. we set off. The first thing I wanted to do was send pitch 16, which did not work out—soon after getting up I was not feeling very well. But I didn’t give it more tries and continued. Above us, there was untouched terrain (untouched by us). I led (with a few falls) the remaining four pitches up to the Wino Tower in the dark, finishing at 5:30 a.m. All these pitches in the 5.13c range felt quite good.

“From Wino Tower we faced 11 more pitches and around 400 meters of climbing. Even though the hardest pitch is only 5.13a, there are some bold pitches too with fairly loose rock. I felt pretty good, and onsighted all pitches except two where photographer Heinz Zak made me stop. I was extremely happy to onsight the 5.12b flare (worst version of offwidth) three pitches below the top. By 2:30 p.m. we were on the summit. This ground up ascent made fixing the ropes justified (according to our ethics), so now the whole line is fixed with ropes and easy to work.

“Now we are down in the Valley, recovering and getting ready for more work on the wall, especially pitch 14 (first traverse) [5.14d] and all the pitches below.”

 
 
Vandalism in Little Cottonwood  Facebook
 

Rock & Ice reports that some 30 Boulders in Little Cottonwood Canyon have been changed due to a vandal. Some of them got easier and some harder. In fact, a few years ago some Boulders in Fontainebleau were damaged and it has also happened in Ticino.

 
 
Mathieu Pauwels doing Punt'X 9a  Facebook
 

 
 
 
Graham on 8C missions to get a 9A  (18) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham, the one who has put up the most hard core boulders in the world, has found a mega 8C project in Fionnay where you can add a possible 8C direct start making it a potential 9A. Extremely bad weather has created more rest and motivation than ever and Dave feels in very good shape. (c) < href="http://www.fredmoix.com/"target="_blank">Fred Moix

"Working on these amazing projects, 8C rigs out of which one has a 9A start. It is incredible! We have tried so many hard boulders we were very close on but could not try more cuz they just get wet. The weather is brutally f***ed haha. It is so bad... everything is soaked again


Waiting for them to dry up Graham yesterday opened, Taste The Rainbow 8B in Trient and an escape is also some 8C's near Verbier.

 
 
8B+ and 8B FA in Champorcher by Niccolo Ceria (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolo Ceria has done the FA of The ghost ship in Champorcher, which took him seven days of effort. "Majestic rig, best personal FA and probably my hardest so far, big emotion!" More info in his blog.

Five days later he did the FA of Murano. "Champorcher starts to be an important bouldering spot of North west. The quality of rock is better than other places of the valley and there are almost 100 lines from 3th grade. Now other projects are waiting for a first ascent up there, but I would also like to go in other place like Fionnay or Barbara Refuge to change rock and environments." The 19 year old is #7 in the ranking game. (c) Marco Pelle

 
 
9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePetr Pavlicek who has done yet another trip with Adam Ondra to Flatanger, reports: "After Change 9b+ and Thors Hammer 9a+, Norway or the whole Scandinavia have 3rd route in 9a range.

During our stay in Norway in May 2013, Adam bolted several projects. 4 of them are already done, all of them super nice. 8a, 8b+, 8c+ and today this 9a. It is rather short, compared to the other lines in this incredible cave, but it has super nice hard bouldery moves and a really tricky dyno, very low above the ground, into a tiny hold which you can not see.

But this is just a little warm up, now the time for really super hard projects here comes...

 
 
8b+ by Mirko Caballero (12)  (4) Facebook
 

Mirko Caballero has done his fifth 8b+, Scarface in Smith Rocks. "Yea! So psyched to send this rig! Great powerful climbing leads to a hard sequence over the lip and then fun scary run-out face climbing to the top! Good 'ole Smiffy classic!" In the Combined Ranking Game the 12 year old is #1 for youngsters up to 19 years old!

 
 
Favresse' hardest crack in Norway  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanet Mountain reports that Nicolas Favresse has opened The Recovery Drink in Jössingfjord - Norway, giving it no grade but saying it is his hardest crack ever, so it should be at least 8c. Nicolas comments that some gear was pre-placed in order to make it easier to clean the 35 m overhanging crack after falls.

I have finally sent my long term king line crack project in Norway last Wednesday! I feel so happy and complete;) It's for sure one of the coolest line I have ever climbed and the hardest crack I have ever redpointed. (c) Jean-Louis Wertz

 
 
7C+ flash by Alexandra Ladurner  Facebook
 

Alexandra Ladurner has made a very impressive flash of Dark dog 7C+ in Zillertal which no other 8a member has flashed, included several top guys. "Totally unexpected. Maybe completely my style...great day!

 
 
9a by Mateusz Haladaj  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMateusz Haladaj has done Ciudad de dios which is his fourth 9a in Santa Linya the last 12 months and he is #5 in the ranking game.

"So happy! My desired and hardest project so far. Solid grade considering there are two 8c+ sections in a row, feels closer to 9a+… Very thanks to all the nice people I’ve met in the cave for a great atmosphere and support. Hasta proxima amigos!

 
 
8b by Maggie Smith-Odette (43)  Facebook
 

Maggie Smith-Odette has done her first 8b, Faithless in Coliseum which is very impressive as she started to climb when she was 29 years old and now is 43.
"FFA. hardest thing i've ever done. nothing better than a route that pumps the shit out of you before you get to the hard moves! ***

 
 
Two 8B's and two 8c+'s by Alfons Dornauer (19)  Facebook
 

Alfons Dornauer is in great shape having, the last week, done two 8B boulders in Zillertal and yesterday he did Reality Check 8c+ in Schleier Wasserfall. In the combined ranking game, the 19 year old is #8.

Today he added The Source 8c+ in Zillertal to his impressive Tick list. "3rd go this year, had to brush the route at first, soo dirty!!! Conditions were perfect! One of the most stunning lines in the valley! MASTERPIECE!!!

 
 
8B+ FA by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has made yet another high quality hard core test piece by The Purge 8B+ in Elkland. The 23-year-old is #1 in the ranking game which he has been for more or less for the last five years.

"Dave and I found this prow a while back and Dave gave it a try before departing to Europe. He told me it was really good, so I decided to pay it a visit and became obsessed over the movement. The full package line! Crux iron cross from left hand micro crimp to right hand slopery arête leads you into a desperate hand flip into a left hand underclin, followed by compression climbing, The topout is not easy either. I resorted to a night session to get better temps. One of my favorite lines.

 
 
Another 9a by Alexander Megos  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFrankenjura.com reports that Alexander has done Pantera 9a on his third go. An interview with his trainer, Patrick Matros, is coming up.

Regarding Markus Bock, who has put up 13 out of the 15 9a's in Frankenjura, Pantera is the #12 hardest. Alexander has previously done the two hardest during this spring. © Klettern.de

 
 
Corona 9a+ by Alexander Megos  (27) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlexander Megos has repeated Corona 9a+ which FA (2006) Markus Bock ranks #1 hardest in Frankenjura. "It was a nice route. I liked it a lot.", says Alexander. Adam Ondra made the first repeat in 2009.

Two months ago, the 19 years old made the first 9a onsight, Estato Critico and a second go ascent of La Rambla 9a+. Training article by Megos trainer for five years. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

Frankenjura.com reports that he needed 10 tries over a total of three days spread out over six months and that he did it actually twice in order to get some nice pictures.

 
 
Rainshadow 9a by Jordan Buys  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJordan Buys jumps two grades by doing his first 9a, Rainshadow in Malham which was set up by Steve McClure. "Best climbing day of my life so far!!!" (c) CAC.

Steve comments, "A great effort. Jordan has really put the time and effort in, and totally deserves to get the ascent. He's been trying it a lot and was shut down last year by a terribly wet season with awful conditions. I’m really glad that at last a Brit has climbed one of my 9’s – hopefully more will follow, there are another 6 or so out there! Rainshadow is a truly brilliant route, perhaps my best, on the best UK sport cliff.

 
 
Era Vella 9a by Michaël Fuselier  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaël Fuselier has done Chris Sharma's Era Vella in Margalef, the high class and most repeated 9a in the world. It was Mikaels first 9a for the French who has been a succesful competiton climber who a dozen times have made it into the finals in the Lead World Cup. Here his blog in French with pictures. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

 
 
8b+ sport route on trad gear by James Pearson  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Pearson has done the first repeat by A Denti Stretti 8b+ at La Balma, 18 years after the FA by Allesandro Manini and he did not use his bolts!

First James made an onsight attempt taking a gigantic fall from the final boulder, 2/3 down the route.

More info at James blog. " It’s funny how you can sometimes make your best performance when you least expect it, when you feel tired, or weak, or just don’t care any more." (c) Riky Felderer

 
 
9a+ FA by Alexander Megos  (1) Facebook
 

Alexander Megos has opened Classified 9a+ in Frankenjura. It was bolted by Carsten Seidel some ten years ago and later Christian Bindhammer rebolted it and made it an open project. Last month the 19-year old onsighted Estado Critico 9a and did La Rambla 9a+ second go in Siurana.

In total, Alexander spent three days on the 20 m project and regarding the grade he uses the 9a+ estimation that was given by both Bindhammer and Markus Bock. More info at Frankenjura.com

 
 
Mind Control 8c (+) by Barbara Raudner (40)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Raudner has done Mind Control 8c (+) in Oliana which was put up by Chris Sharma. "For me Mind Control is the most beautiful route I have ever tried. I am very grateful to have had the opportunity to climb such a fantastic line in that international spot in Oliana.

Thanks to all the nice people with who we spend a really great time there. Thanks for all the „venga, venga“!! Hope to see you all again!! Vamos!!"
full story at her website (c) Claudiaziegler

 
 
First 8b+ by Kristin Yurdin (42)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM has a nice story of Kristin Yurdin who after nearly twenty years of climbing, has done her first 8b+, Chemical Ali at Smith Rock.

The 42 year old, has been projecting it for three years but she has had limited time as she runs the climbing friendly restaurant Terrebonne Depot with up to 60 hours work.

Part of the success this year was weighted pull-ups after climbing, doing three sets of three pull-ups with 19 kg. Her husband describes also a crucial part of Kristin’s training program as finger-boarding, tread-walling, cutting stuff, grilling things, lifting heavy French fry baskets and carrying cases of wine up 12-foot ladders. Photo: Ian Yurdin

 
 
8b again by the Hörst brothers 10 & 12  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst (12) has done True Love in Red River Gorge which was his seventh 8b and harder send. "Really small holds and way reachy for my size. I agree with Mike Doyle, this is harder than God's Own Stone!"

The day after, little brother Jonathan (10) did Swingline 8b. "Great route; very complex-- it took me seven tries." Last month, the little brother did God's Own Stone which goes at 8b+ in the latest topo.

Here is a recent training article focusing on kids progress, made by their father Eric. Eric has sold more than 300 000 climbing training books and has been climbing for more than 35 yeras but when it comes to climbing hard, his sons are now 2-3 grades ahead.

 
 
8a+ trad on bolts by Caroline Ciavaldini  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Ciavaldini blogs about her trad send of the bolted Grazie Ricky 8a+ in Cadarese. "It is a bastion of trad in the Italian Alps and a place of battles between pro-bolts and Trad-addicts. I must say that this granite cliff cut with perfect cracks fits quite well to placing friends!

In short, I was scared to death, but jumped into the route with one thing in my head: in Trad, being scared doesn’t help at all. If you know where to place the protection, you just have to focus on the climb and place your gear quickly and well! Easier said than done you would tell me? Oh no, when I do Trad, there is a little "click", I go into robot mode. Once my decision taken, I climb, and even though I'm afraid somewhere inside of me, it does not interfere with my climbing. Quite a magical moment!

 
 
'Estato Crítico', 9a by André Neres  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAndré Neres (pic© Ignacio Sandoval Burón) has done his first 9a, Estado Critico in Siurana. "Epic journey for me. Proud to be able to deal with the time pressure... It was a team sending, for sure, thanks to all involved! :)"

What are your thoughts from the amazing 9a onsight by Alexander Megos? "Well, I think Alex OS was just astonishing. It wasn't "just" an 9a onsight, it's a really hard OS. I mean the route is not the best one for OS. It's technical and demanding in many aspects, a quite intense boulder problem and after power resistance where there are no good holds, you can't just stop and watch carefully what to do.

 
 
9a FA by Chris Zehani (38)  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Zehani has done his fourth 9a FA, Riders on the storm in Cevennes. "Such a wonderful line very diverse in difficulty, holds and overhangs. To summarize
: the perfect line (hard, beautiful and natural)."
Read full comment. By looking at the trend diagram we can clearly see that the 38 year old is improving year by year.

 
 
8b+ (c) onsight by Evgeniya Malamid  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEvgeniya Malamid has onsighted Los Humildes pa Casa 8b+ in Oliana. "It was just the last route of the day and I wasn't going to onsight it."

It was set up as an 8c which some still think it is although the start is changed. The are less than a handful female that have onsighted 8b+ before including an 8c by Charlotte Durif.

The last year Evgeniya was #9 in the Lead World Cup. "This year I'm going to compete in the World Cup and the European Championship, now climbing on rocks is for pleasure and for training before the season!" (c) Heiko Wilhelm

 
 
8a and 7c+ OS by Mirko Caballero (12)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Cabalero has done his third 8a onsight, Big Burly in Red River Gorge and the 12 year old is #2 in the junior combined ranking. " It feels good to be back on the rock after my broken finger.

I started climbing very early as my parents are climbers too. I love bouldering, but started to rope climb as well in 2011. I train in the Gym, but just to get strong. My passion is climbing outdoors, meeting new people and climbing with them.

 
 
8b+ OS and more by Sachi Amma  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Amma, who did Era Vella 9a last week, has continued showing great form onsighting Migrayana Profundo 8b+ in Siurana. The Lead World Cup winner 2012 has also done Coma Sent Pere 8c+ second go and some other impressive sends in Siurana. The picture by Eddie Gianelloni is from the 8b+ onsight.

 
 
8c+ onsight by Magnus Midtbö in Rodellar  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbö finished a six week trip in Spain, where most of the time was spent projecting a wet 9b, by doing an epic onsight by Cosi van tutte, 8c+ in Rodellar. There are only four other guys who have onsighted at this level including Alexander Megos recent 9a.

The adventure to reach the crag included 200 m swimming in 10 degrees water against the stream. "After getting to the other side, I could only wait for the boat to come with my warm clothes, hoping that this was it, and that there would be no more swimming. Luckily there wasn’t, but on several occasions we had to walk up the river with water above our waists." Check out the amazing full story including more great pics by Henning Wang

In 2011, Magnus was #4 in the world championship and he is also #4 in the 8a ranking game.

 
 
To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ by Drew Ruana (13)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRudy Ruana reports through Facebook that his son Drew Ruana has done the classic To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ in Smith Rocks. This was the fifth 8b+ by the 13 year old who did the first one year ago.

To Bolt is the first American 8b+ and it was put up by Jean-Baptiste Tribout in 1986 at the time when bolting was rather controversial. It is known to be very technical and mentally challenging being 37 m long, dead vertical and no rests.

"It was supposed to be a work session. Ian Yurdin encouraged him up...talking him up to the next "good" hold. Drew probably has 20 tries spread over a year total. Pretty grueling route for him. Its not his favorite style of climbing, " says the prod father and the pic was taken by mother Christine.

 
 
Dan Mirsky checks in with an 8c+ FA  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDan Mirsky has done the FA of Solid Gold 8c+ in Cathedral. "So pscyched about this route that I started an 8a account :) It is 'the line' for sure. In my opinion the straightest, most direct and most difficult way to climb Golden, It cuts out all the big rests and tackles the whole cave.

I am 30 years old and am currently living and traveling and climbing in the US with my girlfriend katy dannenberg in an airstream trailer. We spent this winter season down in Southern Utah living in the desert and climbing at the VRG and Cathedral. Before that I was living in CO. I have been climbing for 11 years. I have been a serious sport climber since 2006, I have lived near and spent lots of time climbing in Rifle and have travelled in the US fairly extensively."
Interview at DPM (c) Dave Pegg/Wolverinepublishing

 
 
Late blooming in climbing  Facebook
 

In most other physical sports, you reach your peak performance in between the age of 25 - 30. In rock climbing we do not yet know when you can expect to be in the best shape of your life but it seems to be not before you are 35 - 40. However, there are many 40+ who keep progressing and it just might be that if you continue to train as hard and intensive as being a youngster, some can continue to peak until they are 50 years.

Would it not be nice if Chris Sharma did his first 9c+ when he has turned 50 :)

 
 
Era Vella 9a by Sachi Amma  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Amma has done Era Vella 9a in Margalef on his sixth try. Last year, Sachi won the Leas World Cup. (c) Eddie Gianelloni

 
 
Supernova 9a 2:Go by Said Belhaj  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSaid Belhaj blogs about an unexpected 2:Go send of Supernova in Vadiello which was his fifth 9a.

"I had planned at least 3 weeks on the route so hopefully it would turn out ok in the end. As my shape felt so bad I instead worked the route VERY well, planning to attack once I felt a bit better.

This was for the me a new step in red-pointing, climbing so perfectly was definitely the key to success. No expectations another. I thought this route would take ages (when dogging the routes before the burn the crux had felt harder than ever) but sometimes unexpected things happen

 
 
Jungle Speed 9a by Geir Söderin  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGeir Söderin has after an 18 day long battle done his first 9a, Jungle Speed in Siurana. "You can say what you want about grades but sometimes they can be extremely important :) Check his blog in Swedish.

Geir's continuous progress is something that can motivate and inspire other guys who did not reach the "wonderkid" categorisation. In 2006, he did his first 8b being 20 years old and then he has progressed one grade every two years. Geir has been climbing since he was 3 years old and always been #1 for his age in Sweden.

What is your advice for continuous long term progress?
The most important thing is to continue to push you out of the comfort zone. This is of course something that is not easy follow and some more practical advice is to boulder more. For me the best training is through indoor bouldering. 18 months ago, I set my 9a goal. Last summer I tried some 9a's and this spring I have spent a month here trying different ones. Hopefully I can do one more as I plan to stay around in my car another month.

 
 
Hukkataival does Bügeleisen 8B+  (15) Facebook
 

Nalle Hukkataival reports on Facebook that he has done the third ascent of Klem Loskot's Bügeleisen 8B+ in Malatal from 2001. Video from the ascent by Dominik Preis.

"Just topped out Bügeleisen!!!! YESSSSSS!!! Probably the most epic battle I've ever had with any boulder! Conditions ranged from bad to utter shit and I got sick for several days.. So HAPPY I managed to pull it off at the very last moment!!!!!

 
 
8B by Samuel Ometz (17)  Facebook
 

Samuel Ometz has done his sixth 8B and harder the last month by General Dissaray 8B in Brione. "Hard. Powerful. So happy to do that one! some of the best moves". The 17 year old has quickly moved to #10 in the ranking game.

 
 
8b+ by Moritz Perwitzschky (13)  Facebook
 

Moritz Perwitzschky has done his first 8b+ Speed Baby in Margalef. During the last two weeks he has also done three 8b's. In 2013, he has also done his first 8A boulder traverse.

 
 
8a+ OS by Mikel Linacisoro (12) and Àlex Hernández (14)  Facebook
 

Another two Spaniard kids have reached the 8a+ onsight mark. Mikel Linacisoro has onsighted Las Clochas de Targa in Chulila and Àlex Hernández has onsighted Mon Dieu in Oliana as well as redpointed T1 Full Equip 8c. Both kids have had an extreme progress the last year and are part of the new big kids generation setting new standards ever year.

 
 
Kai Lightner (13) does Southern Smoke 8c+: UPDATE  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM reports that Kai Lightner has done Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Over the past month, Kai and his mother have taken two trips to RRG and one to NRG and in total done three 8b+.

The grade progress for the kids has exploded during the last year and there are now at least a handful youngsters at the same level as Adam Ondra was, just turning teenager. The youngest person who has done an 8c+ is Ashima Shiraishi (11) also by Southern Smoke.

Profile video of the also very succesful 13 year old competition climber. (c) Elodie Sarocco who has published a nice gallery on her FB page.

 
 
8B+ FA by James Webb  Facebook
 

James Webb has had a very productive trip in Switzerland that finshed of in the best possible way by doing the FA of La Rustica 8B+ in Valle Bavona.

"One of the coolest projects i've ever climbed. Big thanks to Carlo for showing me this thing. Climbed it basically on my last day, last literal try. Couldn't ask for a better finish to my trip. Back to the USA tuesday.

 
 
Fabelita 8c by Muriel Sarkany (38)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany has done Fabelita 8c in Santa Linya and she did on her last try on her last day during a one week trip. The 38 year old has had a nice progress on the rock since she stopped competing in 2010.

In total she has won 17 World Cups. Five times she won Overall and in 2003 she was the World Champion. During her competition career she was for most of the time fully sponsored by the Belgian sport committee.

"Now I'm working as E9 representant for Benelux ;-) It's a nice job because it's great clothes. I don't know yet what I'm gone do exactly in the next months except trying new projects and have fun on rocks.

 
 
8c Fish Eye by Anak Verhoeven (16)  (39) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimb2climb.be reports that Anak Verhoeven has done her first 8c, Fish Eye in Oliana. Anak started to climb when she was four and the last three years she won the Euro Youth Cup and last year she was #22 in the world champion.

 
 
A Muerte 9a (8c+) by Felix Neumärker  Facebook
 

Felix Neumärker who recently did La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana has done A Muerte for which he gives a personal grade of 8c+. He did the same thing for Chocolate Caliente suggesting 8c. During the last two seven weeks, Felix has done seven 8c+ to 9a+ in Siurana.

 
 
9a and 8c+ FA by Ramonet  Facebook
 

Ramón Julian Puigblanque has put up La Parada de los Monstruos 9a in Montanejos and El noi de Manlleu 8c+ in Montserrat. During the last three years Ramonet has been the #1 climber in the world performing on both rock and in competitions.

 
 
8A+ flash by Domen Škofic (18)  (14) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic has flashed Ganymede Takeover 8A+ in Cresciano and fell on the last move on The Dagger 8B (+), before he did it on his third try. "I would belief that The Dagger is 8A+ if somebody would say that." The 18 year old also did Confessions 8B (+) in ten tries over 45 minutes.

Last year, Domen won all five Euro Youth Cups and made it to the finals once in the WC. In 2013, he plans to do all the WC's and also the bouldering in Log Dragomer. In the 8a Combined Juior Game, he is a superior #1.

 
 
9a again by Mateusz Haladaj  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMateusz Haladaj has done his seventh 9a, Direct Open your mind in Santa Linya and he goes to #6 in the ranking game. (c) Maciek Lesser Gajewski

"Finally done, SO HAPPY!!! The hardest route of mine, personal grade 9a/+. Not my style. So good, has every type of movement, simply great sort of climbing. Took me more than one year, over 200 tries, had an accident on it… Big thing. Thanks for all the friends for support and never ending belay

 
 
8C FA "The Kingdom" gets Traversi to #1 in the game  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has done his fifth 8C during the last six months by setting up The Kingdom in Brione.

"The long standing Vecchio left project. Many days of work. Hardest 5 moves I've ever linked together and it's perfectly my style. Shouldery moves, high feet, and very tense climbing. Last day in Swiss and couldn't be more psyched to finally piece this one together.

It was all caught on video for the new film that I have been working on called "Heritage" which documents my experiences and climbs in Swiss over the last 6 months. Should be available in the next few months.

 
 
8c by Johanna Ernst  Facebook
 

Johanna Ernst, the World Cup winner 2008 (being 16) and in 2009 she won the WC again and also become the world champion, has done Fish Eye 8c in Oliana on her 3 Go. Last year she did her first 8c+ and she was #3 in the WC.

 
 
Megos does La Rambla 9a+ and A Muerte 9a both 2nd Go  (17) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture19 year old Alexander is about to take climbing into a new era and yesterday he did La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana on his second go. Dani Fuertes reports that apparently he fell just two moves before the easier finish on his flash attempt, getting beta from Felix Neumärker. Alexander also did A Muerte 9a, 2nd go.

It should be noted that this was the first 9a+ 2nd go, and three days ago he did the first 9a onsight ever.

 
 
8c+ by Piotr Schab (16)  Facebook
 

Piotr Schab has done Coma Sant Pere 8c+ in Margalef. The 16 year old is #8 in the ranking game and he has previously done three 8c+ and Era Vella 9a.

 
 
8B flash by Niccolò Ceria (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolò Ceria has had a good start on his trip to Västervik where he in almost freezing conditions flashed The Hourglas SDS 8B. "Nice moment! Used the logical sit start with undercling and the lower sidepull for the left. In this way, everyone can start from the sit, although it adds a move to the original one. really cool line, I'm not sure about the grade, it could be an hard 8A+ or lower-end 8B. hard to say on the flash attempt."

Nico also did do two 8A's out of which one he says was "basically a flash" as it shares an easy top out of a 7A he had done earlier. It should be noted that all grades given by Nico is one or two grades lower than the original ones.

 
 
8B+ during the night by Chris Webb Parsons  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons has done Dandelion Mind 8B+ in Peak District and it was a mini adventure. "Amazing night session.
We headed off on an adventure, walked through 1 meter deep snow with head torches and abseiled into the crag to find it dry ;) 3 sessions off effort and I managed to climb this amazing problem at 11pm. Unbelievable good climbing, one of the best. Off to work on an oil rig for 1 month now so good timing."
(c) Panda Fenemore

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