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Rombuk 8A+ | Silvretta | Austria  Facebook
 


Rombuk 8A+ | Silvretta | Austria from 45degrees on Vimeo.

 
 
Romain Desgranges training tip #4  Facebook
 

 
 
9a FA by Jonathan Siegrist in Rawyl  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist has spent some time in Switzerland, where he has made the FA of Hyper Finale 9a in Rawyl. Photo by Fred Moix. This was actually the fourth 9a in Switzerland during the last six weeks. R&I Switzerland interview and more updates on JStar's blog

 
 
Projects up to 9c for Ondra in Flatanger  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back home after the first trip to Flatanger this year and he speaks about the upcoming projects. (c) Petr Pavlíček

- Well, the projects are obvious, but the problem (or good thing?) is that they are super hard. The most feasible project is "Kangaroo Dyno", which includes dyno that is much harder than 3 Degrees of Separation dyno. I am pretty sure it is an 8A dyno single move, but you have to get there by climbing 8c+/9a. It will be probably 9b, but 9b which all about one dyno is super hard for me.

The rest of the projects are even harder, such as "Change variation" 9b+ hard, and "Project Big" and "Project Hard", both possible 9c's. Especially Project Big is the LINE of the cave and the dream of my life, but I think it will take a few seasons, but let's see.

I do not want to make too much pressure on myself, I will try the projects this summer a bit, but if they feel milion miles away, I will try my luck in the future. I am super happy as I have just finished first bachelor studies and after 3 years of hectic life I want to enjoy climbing outdoors to the fullest.

 
 
Campus board training  Facebook
 


Trainen met Brinkmeister & de Koning from Siked on Vimeo.

 
 
Stefano Ghisolfi doing Biographie 9a+  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
8B+ by Jimmy Webb in Rocklands  Facebook
 


Jimmy Webb - Get Railed - 8b+ from John Higham on Vimeo.

 
 
Heather Weidner comments on her 8b+ trad  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHeather Weidner comments on her send of China Doll extension, which made her the fourth female to have done 8b+ on trad. (c) Jon Glassberg/Louderthan11

- The 13c (8a+) pitch 1 was bolted by Bob Horan, the extension 13d (8b) has no bolts. I did the two pitches as one 40 meter pitch all on gear, using one fixed pin and one fixed nut. I can't express how relieved and excited I am to have accomplished this climb, my proudest climbing achievement to date. I started working this route just over a year ago, and it involved many stages. I first climbed the 13c on bolts, then toproped the extension clean, figured out the finicky gear on TR, and lastly sent the whole rig placing my own protection.

Each year I set a big climbing goal and it's one that if I achieve I'll surprise myself. I've run the gamut of emotions on this route, from fear and sadness to utter bliss. There were nights I'd wake up in a sweat thinking about the route. It was super scary at times. The opening bulge crux of the 13c has finicky small placements, and my first time leading it I took a nasty fall, ripping two Metolius offset cams and fell onto a 000C3, hitting the ledge below.

I've never tried so hard in my life, and blacked out on the thin upper crux. My partner said I let out an animalistic scream and next thing I knew I was at the last rest before finishing on 5.11 terrain. It feels like a dream, I can't believe I sent!

One try would take about an hour, it was epic. I trained hard this past winter focusing on power. I did a lot of bouldering, campusing, and lock-off training. The past month I tried to get out there every other day as much as weather would allow. I'm not sure how many days it took or tries but I'm guessing 70 or so tries maybe 50 days? Kind of a guess. I worked it last June, August through early November, then started back this year in late April.

 
 
Rockfax/UKC need to update their grade conversions again  (4) Facebook
 

In 2008 8a said that Rockfax/UKC must update their grade conversion, which they did later. Previously, the charts were constructed in such way that UK climbers were the only ones doing 8c+ and 9a trad routes.

When Alex Honnold soloed The Complete Scream, UKC reported it as an E8, which according to their table is equivalent to a 7c, which we reported within brackets. Now it turns out that Alex thinks it is max an E6 and a 7a+.

 
 
Rustam Gelmanov repeats Hypnotized Minds 8C+  (27) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Circuit Climbing reports with a video that Rustam Gelmanov has done the first repeat of Hypnotized Minds in just three days, which Daniel Woods the first ascentionist just upgraded to 8C+.

The Russian has previously done at least an 8B+ and he is currently #2 in the IFSC World Ranking.

 
 
Climbing Gym Block013  Facebook
 

 
 
Zhangjiajie - A new potential climbing Mecca  Facebook
 

In April 2016 an international team of climbers was the first to receive permission to climb in Zhangjiajie, China’s first and largest National Forest Park, located in the northern Hunan province of south-central China. With more than 3,000 unique orange sandstone pillars reaching to the clouds, this stunning UNESCO World Heritage site attracts over 30 million visitors annually. Despite being a tourist attraction, the park’s regulations prevented climbers from exploring Zhangjiajie’s maze of freestanding towers.


A Song for Tomorrow - Climbing in Qingfeng Valley (CHN) from World of Freesports on Vimeo.

 
 
Neck surgery for Puccio on Sunday  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio, who had a knee surgery after an injury in the isolation in Vail World Cup last year, comes with really bad news on Facebook.

- So.... A lot is going on in my mind right now, but mostly scared. As a lot of people may have seen me grab my neck and arm during the world cup in Vail this past weekend though out the rounds. I was in a bit of pain that started when I was warming up in isolation before qualifiers. I felt a shooting pain down both arms when I was trying a run and jump, but the shooting pain went away pretty quickly.

Even tho I made it to finals in this condition I could tell my strength was a lot lower and my pain was increasing. I tried my hardest and then today got an MRI here are the results: A very bad herniated disc in between C5 and C6 Vertebras. The disc is pushing on my Spinal Cord and that is the reason for he numbness and shooting pain in my arms. The Surgeon took a look at it and right after and said it needs surgery right away! The Disc is damaging the spinal cord. He will have to remove my disc and fuse my C5 and C6 together. I check into the hospital tomorrow and the surgery is Sunday!!!

The surgeon says its 3 months still I can climb and it's fully fused together. Everyone I talked to says its a shorter recover time then my knee so I'm hoping for the best!!! :) This really sucks and really sucks that there were people and even fellow competitors that didn't believe me when I said I think I'm injured and something is wrong. I guess I don't know my own limitations sometimes. It's hard when you adrenalin is going. Road to recovery PART 2!!!


Actually the commentator mentioned during the final in Vail that she seemed to have neck problems and that she did not seem to be the same boulderer as she was in the qualification and semifinal.

 
 
9a link-up FA by Ander Lasagabaster  Facebook
 


XL. from Urko Nieto on Vimeo.

 
 
Pamela Shanti Pack makes FA of off-width crack in the Moab desert  Facebook
 

 
 
Sharma projecting his 9a Mont-rebei MP  Facebook
 

Sharma bolted it ground up, which in it self is amazing as the pitches are thought to be as follows: 6c, 9a, 8b, 8c, 8c, 7b, 8c+. In total some 250 meters.

 
 
Honnold does not agree with UK ethics and grading  (6) Facebook
 

UKC has made an interview with Alex Honnold, who recently did some impressive grit stone routes. Interestingly he speaks out saying that he does not agree with the UK ethics and the grading.

- I think I have a pretty decent feel for UK climbing ethics and the grading scale and all that. I just don’t fully appreciate it I guess. I don’t see what’s wrong with tasteful bolting. I love climbing and dislike all the faffing about that pure trad climbing requires. I’d rather spend all that faffing time just climbing.
But obviously I respect the history of climbing in the UK and can certainly play by the imposed rules. I just don’t totally agree with them.

It can also be noted that Alex has recorded four grit routes from Fair Head including The Complete Scream which UKC reported as an E8 ascents which equivalents to a 7c+. Alex recorded it as a 7a+ commenting, "E7 6b, though it didn't really feel that hard."

 
 
The Alex Megos Formula | Episode II - Friction  Facebook
 


The Alex Megos Formula | Episode II - Friction from madebynomads on Vimeo.

 
 
Sharma and Becan Training Camp  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEnjoy 5 intensive days of climbing, yoga, nutrition tips, movie projections and tourism in one of the top cities of the world. Adults Camp lasts from July 4th to 8th; Teens camp - from July 18th to 22nd. Are you in?

Our mission is to transmit our knowledge, experience of climbing (at the highest level on the rock or in competitions) to enable you to become a better climber and develop a deeper connection and appreciation for climbing as a life path. Besides sharing their training and climbing experiences Chris and Klemen will also transmit their secrets to staying motivated and strong throughout ups and downs in one’s climbing journey. More info.

 
 
Trotter makes First Free Ascent of Ewbank Route in Tasmanina  Facebook
 

 
 
The 9a girl power story by Laura Rogara (14)  Facebook
 

Laura Rogora, the regining Italian Champion in both Lead and Boulder, trains at a small gym outside Rome.

- It took me about 15-20 tries in one month and half. I went to Sperlonga seven times. I didn't do a specific training for this route because my purpose is training for competition.

 
 
China Doll 8b+ on trad by Heather Weidner (36)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHeither Weidner has done China Doll 8b+ R on trad in Boulder Canyon. The R stands for that it is risky due to poor gear and long in between. "Combined pitch one (13c) and pitch 2 (13d) on gear. Used one fixed pin and one fixed nut on the extension. Started on 5.7 solo traverse. I can't believe I did this!!! My biggest climbing accomplishment to date. Huge thanks to Chris for the countless belays, I've been working this just over a year. Dream come true!!!"

Heither is the fourth female to reach 8b+ at trad after Lynn Hill did it in 1993, Beth Rodden in 2008 (8c+) and Barbara Zangerl in 2014. Interview is coming up. (c) Jon Glassberg/Louderthan11, who is making a feature film of her accomplishment.

 
 
La Grotta dei Colombi needs fanatic bolters  (59) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLa Grotta dei Colombi is located near Cala Gonone on Sardinia and is possibly the biggest climbing cave in Europe. The potential is 100 routes with up to 50 meters overhang and 100 meters long. The rock quality is superb: it is full of tufas and pockets and on the sides, more vertical rock and also some slabs. It is also possible to climb both during winter and summer. Until now, a team from Czech Republic created mainly by Jan Kares, Slávek Dostál and Tomas Truhelka, who has helped us out with collecting some further info, has put up ten routes.

"The outbreak of our bolting in Sardinia fully started in Chistmas 2008. And has never stopped... The tightly knitted relationship between us, bolting and Sardinia has so far resulted in approx. 2.300 bolts used to put up some 220 routes at 12 crags. The latest addition to the crag family is recently discovered Grotta di Colombi, which aspires to one of the greatest caves in Europe. All equipment and bolting steel have been paid for with old hard cash from mainly Jan’s pockets. Along with travel cost, accommodation and litres of doppios.

Forget sponsoring or contributions from locals, we never asked that to be a part of the deal. Somehow, however, this innocent hobby accelerated to dimensions no longer acceptable without help from outside. Should you feel you can help us at any way to develop many beautiful crags in Sardinia, please contact Jan at karesjan@gmail.com. Any help is greatly appreciated. There is abundance of bolting material and tools, but the manpower is what’s desperately needed.

 
 
Campusing: an addition to rock climbing  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRock climbing often means that your power and your gripping position drops. The reason for this is that you more seldom climb on crimps outdoors and at the same time you often get high level of lactic acid in your muscles. The easiest way to regain power is doing some campus recruitment sessions.

Actually, the best thing is to do some campus warming up before going to the rock but no contact more than 1 second. In fact, you should warm up with the same gripping position as on the project you are going for.

After a session outdoors, you can do some normal strength training if you plan to have a rest day. Just hang on the rungs for 6 - 10 seconds and rest one minute. Once you feel you are getting weaker, increase the rest and once you start dropping in power, you should stop. A training article.

 
 
Pearson and Ciavaldini on The Search in SA  Facebook
 

 
 
Romain Desgranges Training Tips #3  Facebook
 

 
 
8B flash, Jade 8B+ in 3rd go and then a nasty fall for Jonwong Chon  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJongwon Chon, the #1 in IFSC Bouldering ranking, has flashed Bear toss 8B in RMNP. Next day he did Jade 8B+ in his third go. Later he took a 7 meter fall and had to go to hospital for some stitching. © Eddie Fowke/The Circuit Climbing has the story.

- Walking a cliff edge path between boulders a hold broke and pitched him 20 feet off a cliff. Luckily his years of bouldering experience saved him from major damage. He's incredibly lucky to get away with some nasty cuts.

 
 
Bolting conflicts around Göteborg solved  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDuring 2014, I bolted 80 routes in Lysekil in Bohuslän and 6 anchor bolts in Utby. Both areas are well-known for trad climbing. I had informed the chairmen of the two local clubs of my intention and I did follow the local bolt policy.

First the six anchor bolts were sabotaged and so were the 80 routes later. The three guys that did it had not talked to their local club. They just thought they could decide by themselves.

After many discussions, both local clubs and the national Federation took decisions in order to facilitate the bolting. Even the local municipality have stepped forward to support bolting. In Utby, the six anchor bolts have been replaced with some 60 bolts creating the most popular sector and in Lysekil the rebolting has started, see picture.

 
 
Two 8Bs's by Pirmin Bertle in Argentina  Facebook
 


Impressions from El Chaltén - Including "Wasabi" (8B) and "El Ultimo Mate" (8B) from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
 
Mateusz Haladaj does First Ley 9a+  Facebook
 

Mateusz Haladaj delivers a great and interesting story from his second 9a+, First Ley in Margalef.

 
 
Pirmin Bertle does 9a FA in Argentina  Facebook
 


Azul es el cielo de los ciegos - South America's first 9a in Piedra Parada, Argentina. from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
 
No-Edge climbing technology ;)  Facebook
 

 
 
Jan Kares - Another unknown climbing hero  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Kareš will go for a world record - 232 continuous pull-ups attempt - next month. The amazing thing is that he is 42 years old and weighs 81 kg. The simple secret is frequent high intensity training meaning doing about eight pull-ups, then rest 20 seconds and continue in this way for 30 minutes.

In 1998, he was #17 in a Lead World Cup but nowadays he is a bolting and onsight fanatic. Since 2008, Jan has spent some 150 days bolting, paying everything by himself, in Sardinia and that is what he does during all his vacations. His dream is that this area, close to Cala Gonone, will be one of the best and most famous climbing areas in Europe. The video includes possibly the biggest climbing cave in the world, where Adam Ondra has already been invited. More info and pics soon.

 
 
Vail Boulder WC Podium Highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
7 306 pull ups in 18 hours by Andrew Shapiro (17)  Facebook
 

USA Today reported last month that Andrew Shapiro had set three world records in pull-ups. After six hours he did 3 515 of them, after 12 hours - 5 742 and then he continued another six hours to set a new 24 hours record with 7 306. The Guiness book official record holder for 6, 12 and 24h, is Jan Kares (41) who did 6 800 in 24 hours. In 1998, Kares was #17 in a Lead World Cup.

 
 
Columbi cave in Sardinia - bigger than Grande Grotta  Facebook
 

 
 
Alex Megos FA of Louis Cut 8B+  Facebook
 

 
 
Less climbers at Kalymnos and no queues  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHaving got some emails saying that there there had been much less climbers at the popular sectors on Kalymnos this year, I asked (c) Aris Theododopoulos if he could find another explanation for it, apart from the fact that Ryan Air have reduced their number of flights with 50% last two years.

- Actually this year the airport of Kos has 25% less arrivals in comparison with last year. I think this is happened first of all because of the refugee situation at Greek islands last year. Kalymnos it is at its best quality ever, with more than 3.000 friendly bolted routes with a big rebolting project just completed.

Another possible reason why there have not been any queues this spring, even on the popular routes, is that it seems climbers are more frequently checking out the new sectors, especially on Telendos. There is also new sector being developed just on the other side of Arginonta with possibly close to 100 mainly easier routes with just 5 - 10 minutes approach.

Full info on the refugee situation, new routes and rebolting. Mayte Radek at Axium 6c+, Ghost Kitchen.

 
 
8B by Simon Brunner  Facebook
 


Pojen Bouldering - Vaffanculo fb 8B - Simon Brunner from Simon Brunner on Vimeo.

 
 
Alex Megos - Västervik is an amazing place...  Facebook
 

 
 
Flexibility training - Most value for time for the advanced climbers  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMost advanced climbers are very close to their physical peak when it comes to maximum strength and endurance. Surely, the advanced could improve a bit if they spend another 100 hours which possibly could mean they could do their project.

However, based on the knowledge that the #1 rock climbers, Adam Ondra and Ashima Shiraishi, are also possibly the most flexible advanced climbers out there, it might be better to invest the extra hours improving your flexibility rather than your strength.

When you come to the regular 8a climber, I bet, training flexibility is at least ten times more effective rather than doing another campus or endurance session. (c) Pavel Zvire

 
 
Boulder WC after 6 out of 7 events  (8) Facebook
 

1. Shauna Coxsey 480 GBR - Tomoa Narasaki 362 JPN
2. Miho Nonaka 346 JPN - Kokoro Fujii 355 JPN
3. Melissa Le Neve 313 FRA - Alexey Rubtsov 307 RUS
4. Akiyo Noguchi 259 JPN - Rustam Gelmanov 267 RUS
5. Monika Retschy 229 GER - Jongwon Chon 264 KOR
6. Megan Mascarenas 220 USA - Sean McColl 232 CAN
In the above rankings, the worst result has not been included.

Shauna Coxsey has secured the overall title counting four victories and once being the runner-up. If Alexej wins the last event in Munich in August, Narasaki needs to be #6 and Fujii #4 to win overall. The biggest blow in 2016 is that Japan has strengthened their position and that western Europe is having the worst results ever among the male. However, this relates to the fact that only one male, Jan Hojer, has participated in at least all but one event.

 
 
Mascarenas and Fujii win in Vail  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas took an impressive victory in front of her home crowd topping out all four problems in just five tries. The lowest WC result since the 18-year-old won in Vail last year is #4, whereas one of her biggest successes is winning Adidas Rock Master. In the 8a ranking game she is #3 and she has not finished highschool yet. Shauna Coxey was #2, which means she has secured the overall victory 2016.

Among the male, Kokoro Fujii won again and he is now in the overall lead in front of Tomoa Narasaki, who was second in Vail. #3 was Alexey Rubtsov, who also is #3 overall. Among the top-5, there were only guys from Japan or Russia and the biggest change this year is how Japan dominates the scene at the same time when the western Europeans are having their worst year ever. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Alex Megos proves that no excuses exist in climbing  Facebook
 

 
 
How to be a Rock climber ;)  Facebook
 

 
 
Romain Desgranges Training Tips #2  Facebook
 

 
 
Vail Boulder WC starts on Friday  Facebook
 

112 athletes are scheduled to participate in the Vail Boulder World Cup, almost half out of which are from USA or Canada.

Live streaming on Saturday - GMT -6
10:00 - 12:30 Semi-Finals Men and Women
16:30 Finals Men and Women

 
 
Drew Ruana (16) signs up as #6 in Routes/Boulders combined  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDrew Ruana has added 41 ascents to his new scorecard including his FA of The Assassin 9a in Smith Rock, Just do it 8c+, which he did when he was 14 years old and Direct North 8B+ in Bishop. In the combined 8a ranking game, the 16 year old is #6.

- I have been climbing for about 13 years, but only seriously for the last eight. I joined a competitive team when I was 8. Since then, I've competed in the youth circuit, and I've climbed outside a lot. My best results are 1st place at the 2015 USA SCS youth, and 2nd place at 2014 WYCH. In the future, I want to send 9a+ and 8C, and have a 8c+ Onsight or flash. I hope to achieve these goals in the next five years

His trainer is Tyson Schoene, who actually was babysitter by Drew's mother some 30 years ago a few times and since then, Tyson has had a close relationship with the Ruana family.

- I had already worked with many top kids, our team was built of them, but early on you knew Drew was the exception. He had a drive that others didn't. But for the most part that drive was very different than many of the top kids out there. It wasn't like more hours in the gym or harder drills or anything like that. It was more like obsession with sending routes. When he was trying a route, it was, and is gnarly how dedicated to that moment he is. It's like nothing else matters. But in training, it was different. It was nothing spectacular. His climbing during training was good, but the training wasn't amazing. I mean I have a dozen kids that used to work harder than him. But he is smarter. He technically is better than most.

His success comes because of the dedication from his family, my assistant coaches, friends and his team that all support him. He relies on all of us, more than he knows. His father and mother are some of the best people I know. They have raised him well and try to give him what he needs to be successful, but it's not just handed to him, he has to work for it. He is also a straight A+ student. He works very hard at that too. He does not like failure. No matter what aspect of his life it is coming from. I have said this 100 times, I am thankful for the opportunity to work with these kids, not just him, but all of them. They teach me things every day. They teach me about coaching, and training, and life.

 
 
Kleman Becan projects 9a+ in Oliana, which he later did  Facebook
 

 
 
FFME were ahead of their time in regard to bolting  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn the Kalymnos topo, there is a recommendation that the first bolt should be placed at 2.8 meters above the ground and the second at 4 meters. Aris Theodoropoulos got these regulations from the French climbing federation (FFME), which in 1992 published them in a book. In fact, FFME did suggest three categories. For example on children routes, the first bolt should be placed on 2.2 meters and the second at 3 meters.

Kind of interesting is that most bolting in France seems not to have followed this recommendation at that time. Instead, everyone knows what old-school bolting is alike in France and the rest of the world. Although Kalymnos is known for the close bolting, they still need to put in more in order to follow the FFME anno 1992.

Which are the crags you know with most bolts in the world. For me, it is the easier routes I have bolted around Göteborg.

 
 
 
9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePetr Pavlicek who has done yet another trip with Adam Ondra to Flatanger, reports: "After Change 9b+ and Thors Hammer 9a+, Norway or the whole Scandinavia have 3rd route in 9a range.

During our stay in Norway in May 2013, Adam bolted several projects. 4 of them are already done, all of them super nice. 8a, 8b+, 8c+ and today this 9a. It is rather short, compared to the other lines in this incredible cave, but it has super nice hard bouldery moves and a really tricky dyno, very low above the ground, into a tiny hold which you can not see.

But this is just a little warm up, now the time for really super hard projects here comes...

 
 
8b+ by Mirko Caballero (12)  (4) Facebook
 

Mirko Caballero has done his fifth 8b+, Scarface in Smith Rocks. "Yea! So psyched to send this rig! Great powerful climbing leads to a hard sequence over the lip and then fun scary run-out face climbing to the top! Good 'ole Smiffy classic!" In the Combined Ranking Game the 12 year old is #1 for youngsters up to 19 years old!

 
 
Favresse' hardest crack in Norway  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanet Mountain reports that Nicolas Favresse has opened The Recovery Drink in Jössingfjord - Norway, giving it no grade but saying it is his hardest crack ever, so it should be at least 8c. Nicolas comments that some gear was pre-placed in order to make it easier to clean the 35 m overhanging crack after falls.

I have finally sent my long term king line crack project in Norway last Wednesday! I feel so happy and complete;) It's for sure one of the coolest line I have ever climbed and the hardest crack I have ever redpointed. (c) Jean-Louis Wertz

 
 
7C+ flash by Alexandra Ladurner  Facebook
 

Alexandra Ladurner has made a very impressive flash of Dark dog 7C+ in Zillertal which no other 8a member has flashed, included several top guys. "Totally unexpected. Maybe completely my style...great day!

 
 
9a by Mateusz Haladaj  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMateusz Haladaj has done Ciudad de dios which is his fourth 9a in Santa Linya the last 12 months and he is #5 in the ranking game.

"So happy! My desired and hardest project so far. Solid grade considering there are two 8c+ sections in a row, feels closer to 9a+… Very thanks to all the nice people I’ve met in the cave for a great atmosphere and support. Hasta proxima amigos!

 
 
8b by Maggie Smith-Odette (43)  Facebook
 

Maggie Smith-Odette has done her first 8b, Faithless in Coliseum which is very impressive as she started to climb when she was 29 years old and now is 43.
"FFA. hardest thing i've ever done. nothing better than a route that pumps the shit out of you before you get to the hard moves! ***

 
 
Two 8B's and two 8c+'s by Alfons Dornauer (19)  Facebook
 

Alfons Dornauer is in great shape having, the last week, done two 8B boulders in Zillertal and yesterday he did Reality Check 8c+ in Schleier Wasserfall. In the combined ranking game, the 19 year old is #8.

Today he added The Source 8c+ in Zillertal to his impressive Tick list. "3rd go this year, had to brush the route at first, soo dirty!!! Conditions were perfect! One of the most stunning lines in the valley! MASTERPIECE!!!

 
 
8B+ FA by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has made yet another high quality hard core test piece by The Purge 8B+ in Elkland. The 23-year-old is #1 in the ranking game which he has been for more or less for the last five years.

"Dave and I found this prow a while back and Dave gave it a try before departing to Europe. He told me it was really good, so I decided to pay it a visit and became obsessed over the movement. The full package line! Crux iron cross from left hand micro crimp to right hand slopery arête leads you into a desperate hand flip into a left hand underclin, followed by compression climbing, The topout is not easy either. I resorted to a night session to get better temps. One of my favorite lines.

 
 
Another 9a by Alexander Megos  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFrankenjura.com reports that Alexander has done Pantera 9a on his third go. An interview with his trainer, Patrick Matros, is coming up.

Regarding Markus Bock, who has put up 13 out of the 15 9a's in Frankenjura, Pantera is the #12 hardest. Alexander has previously done the two hardest during this spring. © Klettern.de

 
 
Corona 9a+ by Alexander Megos  (27) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlexander Megos has repeated Corona 9a+ which FA (2006) Markus Bock ranks #1 hardest in Frankenjura. "It was a nice route. I liked it a lot.", says Alexander. Adam Ondra made the first repeat in 2009.

Two months ago, the 19 years old made the first 9a onsight, Estato Critico and a second go ascent of La Rambla 9a+. Training article by Megos trainer for five years. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

Frankenjura.com reports that he needed 10 tries over a total of three days spread out over six months and that he did it actually twice in order to get some nice pictures.

 
 
Rainshadow 9a by Jordan Buys  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJordan Buys jumps two grades by doing his first 9a, Rainshadow in Malham which was set up by Steve McClure. "Best climbing day of my life so far!!!" (c) CAC.

Steve comments, "A great effort. Jordan has really put the time and effort in, and totally deserves to get the ascent. He's been trying it a lot and was shut down last year by a terribly wet season with awful conditions. I’m really glad that at last a Brit has climbed one of my 9’s – hopefully more will follow, there are another 6 or so out there! Rainshadow is a truly brilliant route, perhaps my best, on the best UK sport cliff.

 
 
Era Vella 9a by Michaël Fuselier  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaël Fuselier has done Chris Sharma's Era Vella in Margalef, the high class and most repeated 9a in the world. It was Mikaels first 9a for the French who has been a succesful competiton climber who a dozen times have made it into the finals in the Lead World Cup. Here his blog in French with pictures. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

 
 
8b+ sport route on trad gear by James Pearson  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Pearson has done the first repeat by A Denti Stretti 8b+ at La Balma, 18 years after the FA by Allesandro Manini and he did not use his bolts!

First James made an onsight attempt taking a gigantic fall from the final boulder, 2/3 down the route.

More info at James blog. " It’s funny how you can sometimes make your best performance when you least expect it, when you feel tired, or weak, or just don’t care any more." (c) Riky Felderer

 
 
9a+ FA by Alexander Megos  (1) Facebook
 

Alexander Megos has opened Classified 9a+ in Frankenjura. It was bolted by Carsten Seidel some ten years ago and later Christian Bindhammer rebolted it and made it an open project. Last month the 19-year old onsighted Estado Critico 9a and did La Rambla 9a+ second go in Siurana.

In total, Alexander spent three days on the 20 m project and regarding the grade he uses the 9a+ estimation that was given by both Bindhammer and Markus Bock. More info at Frankenjura.com

 
 
Mind Control 8c (+) by Barbara Raudner (40)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Raudner has done Mind Control 8c (+) in Oliana which was put up by Chris Sharma. "For me Mind Control is the most beautiful route I have ever tried. I am very grateful to have had the opportunity to climb such a fantastic line in that international spot in Oliana.

Thanks to all the nice people with who we spend a really great time there. Thanks for all the „venga, venga“!! Hope to see you all again!! Vamos!!"
full story at her website (c) Claudiaziegler

 
 
First 8b+ by Kristin Yurdin (42)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM has a nice story of Kristin Yurdin who after nearly twenty years of climbing, has done her first 8b+, Chemical Ali at Smith Rock.

The 42 year old, has been projecting it for three years but she has had limited time as she runs the climbing friendly restaurant Terrebonne Depot with up to 60 hours work.

Part of the success this year was weighted pull-ups after climbing, doing three sets of three pull-ups with 19 kg. Her husband describes also a crucial part of Kristin’s training program as finger-boarding, tread-walling, cutting stuff, grilling things, lifting heavy French fry baskets and carrying cases of wine up 12-foot ladders. Photo: Ian Yurdin

 
 
8b again by the Hörst brothers 10 & 12  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst (12) has done True Love in Red River Gorge which was his seventh 8b and harder send. "Really small holds and way reachy for my size. I agree with Mike Doyle, this is harder than God's Own Stone!"

The day after, little brother Jonathan (10) did Swingline 8b. "Great route; very complex-- it took me seven tries." Last month, the little brother did God's Own Stone which goes at 8b+ in the latest topo.

Here is a recent training article focusing on kids progress, made by their father Eric. Eric has sold more than 300 000 climbing training books and has been climbing for more than 35 yeras but when it comes to climbing hard, his sons are now 2-3 grades ahead.

 
 
8a+ trad on bolts by Caroline Ciavaldini  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Ciavaldini blogs about her trad send of the bolted Grazie Ricky 8a+ in Cadarese. "It is a bastion of trad in the Italian Alps and a place of battles between pro-bolts and Trad-addicts. I must say that this granite cliff cut with perfect cracks fits quite well to placing friends!

In short, I was scared to death, but jumped into the route with one thing in my head: in Trad, being scared doesn’t help at all. If you know where to place the protection, you just have to focus on the climb and place your gear quickly and well! Easier said than done you would tell me? Oh no, when I do Trad, there is a little "click", I go into robot mode. Once my decision taken, I climb, and even though I'm afraid somewhere inside of me, it does not interfere with my climbing. Quite a magical moment!

 
 
'Estato Crítico', 9a by André Neres  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAndré Neres (pic© Ignacio Sandoval Burón) has done his first 9a, Estado Critico in Siurana. "Epic journey for me. Proud to be able to deal with the time pressure... It was a team sending, for sure, thanks to all involved! :)"

What are your thoughts from the amazing 9a onsight by Alexander Megos? "Well, I think Alex OS was just astonishing. It wasn't "just" an 9a onsight, it's a really hard OS. I mean the route is not the best one for OS. It's technical and demanding in many aspects, a quite intense boulder problem and after power resistance where there are no good holds, you can't just stop and watch carefully what to do.

 
 
9a FA by Chris Zehani (38)  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Zehani has done his fourth 9a FA, Riders on the storm in Cevennes. "Such a wonderful line very diverse in difficulty, holds and overhangs. To summarize
: the perfect line (hard, beautiful and natural)."
Read full comment. By looking at the trend diagram we can clearly see that the 38 year old is improving year by year.

 
 
8b+ (c) onsight by Evgeniya Malamid  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEvgeniya Malamid has onsighted Los Humildes pa Casa 8b+ in Oliana. "It was just the last route of the day and I wasn't going to onsight it."

It was set up as an 8c which some still think it is although the start is changed. The are less than a handful female that have onsighted 8b+ before including an 8c by Charlotte Durif.

The last year Evgeniya was #9 in the Lead World Cup. "This year I'm going to compete in the World Cup and the European Championship, now climbing on rocks is for pleasure and for training before the season!" (c) Heiko Wilhelm

 
 
8a and 7c+ OS by Mirko Caballero (12)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Cabalero has done his third 8a onsight, Big Burly in Red River Gorge and the 12 year old is #2 in the junior combined ranking. " It feels good to be back on the rock after my broken finger.

I started climbing very early as my parents are climbers too. I love bouldering, but started to rope climb as well in 2011. I train in the Gym, but just to get strong. My passion is climbing outdoors, meeting new people and climbing with them.

 
 
8b+ OS and more by Sachi Amma  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Amma, who did Era Vella 9a last week, has continued showing great form onsighting Migrayana Profundo 8b+ in Siurana. The Lead World Cup winner 2012 has also done Coma Sent Pere 8c+ second go and some other impressive sends in Siurana. The picture by Eddie Gianelloni is from the 8b+ onsight.

 
 
8c+ onsight by Magnus Midtbö in Rodellar  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbö finished a six week trip in Spain, where most of the time was spent projecting a wet 9b, by doing an epic onsight by Cosi van tutte, 8c+ in Rodellar. There are only four other guys who have onsighted at this level including Alexander Megos recent 9a.

The adventure to reach the crag included 200 m swimming in 10 degrees water against the stream. "After getting to the other side, I could only wait for the boat to come with my warm clothes, hoping that this was it, and that there would be no more swimming. Luckily there wasn’t, but on several occasions we had to walk up the river with water above our waists." Check out the amazing full story including more great pics by Henning Wang

In 2011, Magnus was #4 in the world championship and he is also #4 in the 8a ranking game.

 
 
To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ by Drew Ruana (13)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRudy Ruana reports through Facebook that his son Drew Ruana has done the classic To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ in Smith Rocks. This was the fifth 8b+ by the 13 year old who did the first one year ago.

To Bolt is the first American 8b+ and it was put up by Jean-Baptiste Tribout in 1986 at the time when bolting was rather controversial. It is known to be very technical and mentally challenging being 37 m long, dead vertical and no rests.

"It was supposed to be a work session. Ian Yurdin encouraged him up...talking him up to the next "good" hold. Drew probably has 20 tries spread over a year total. Pretty grueling route for him. Its not his favorite style of climbing, " says the prod father and the pic was taken by mother Christine.

 
 
Dan Mirsky checks in with an 8c+ FA  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDan Mirsky has done the FA of Solid Gold 8c+ in Cathedral. "So pscyched about this route that I started an 8a account :) It is 'the line' for sure. In my opinion the straightest, most direct and most difficult way to climb Golden, It cuts out all the big rests and tackles the whole cave.

I am 30 years old and am currently living and traveling and climbing in the US with my girlfriend katy dannenberg in an airstream trailer. We spent this winter season down in Southern Utah living in the desert and climbing at the VRG and Cathedral. Before that I was living in CO. I have been climbing for 11 years. I have been a serious sport climber since 2006, I have lived near and spent lots of time climbing in Rifle and have travelled in the US fairly extensively."
Interview at DPM (c) Dave Pegg/Wolverinepublishing

 
 
Late blooming in climbing  Facebook
 

In most other physical sports, you reach your peak performance in between the age of 25 - 30. In rock climbing we do not yet know when you can expect to be in the best shape of your life but it seems to be not before you are 35 - 40. However, there are many 40+ who keep progressing and it just might be that if you continue to train as hard and intensive as being a youngster, some can continue to peak until they are 50 years.

Would it not be nice if Chris Sharma did his first 9c+ when he has turned 50 :)

 
 
Era Vella 9a by Sachi Amma  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Amma has done Era Vella 9a in Margalef on his sixth try. Last year, Sachi won the Leas World Cup. (c) Eddie Gianelloni

 
 
Supernova 9a 2:Go by Said Belhaj  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSaid Belhaj blogs about an unexpected 2:Go send of Supernova in Vadiello which was his fifth 9a.

"I had planned at least 3 weeks on the route so hopefully it would turn out ok in the end. As my shape felt so bad I instead worked the route VERY well, planning to attack once I felt a bit better.

This was for the me a new step in red-pointing, climbing so perfectly was definitely the key to success. No expectations another. I thought this route would take ages (when dogging the routes before the burn the crux had felt harder than ever) but sometimes unexpected things happen

 
 
Jungle Speed 9a by Geir Söderin  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGeir Söderin has after an 18 day long battle done his first 9a, Jungle Speed in Siurana. "You can say what you want about grades but sometimes they can be extremely important :) Check his blog in Swedish.

Geir's continuous progress is something that can motivate and inspire other guys who did not reach the "wonderkid" categorisation. In 2006, he did his first 8b being 20 years old and then he has progressed one grade every two years. Geir has been climbing since he was 3 years old and always been #1 for his age in Sweden.

What is your advice for continuous long term progress?
The most important thing is to continue to push you out of the comfort zone. This is of course something that is not easy follow and some more practical advice is to boulder more. For me the best training is through indoor bouldering. 18 months ago, I set my 9a goal. Last summer I tried some 9a's and this spring I have spent a month here trying different ones. Hopefully I can do one more as I plan to stay around in my car another month.

 
 
Hukkataival does Bügeleisen 8B+  (15) Facebook
 

Nalle Hukkataival reports on Facebook that he has done the third ascent of Klem Loskot's Bügeleisen 8B+ in Malatal from 2001. Video from the ascent by Dominik Preis.

"Just topped out Bügeleisen!!!! YESSSSSS!!! Probably the most epic battle I've ever had with any boulder! Conditions ranged from bad to utter shit and I got sick for several days.. So HAPPY I managed to pull it off at the very last moment!!!!!

 
 
8B by Samuel Ometz (17)  Facebook
 

Samuel Ometz has done his sixth 8B and harder the last month by General Dissaray 8B in Brione. "Hard. Powerful. So happy to do that one! some of the best moves". The 17 year old has quickly moved to #10 in the ranking game.

 
 
8b+ by Moritz Perwitzschky (13)  Facebook
 

Moritz Perwitzschky has done his first 8b+ Speed Baby in Margalef. During the last two weeks he has also done three 8b's. In 2013, he has also done his first 8A boulder traverse.

 
 
8a+ OS by Mikel Linacisoro (12) and Àlex Hernández (14)  Facebook
 

Another two Spaniard kids have reached the 8a+ onsight mark. Mikel Linacisoro has onsighted Las Clochas de Targa in Chulila and Àlex Hernández has onsighted Mon Dieu in Oliana as well as redpointed T1 Full Equip 8c. Both kids have had an extreme progress the last year and are part of the new big kids generation setting new standards ever year.

 
 
Kai Lightner (13) does Southern Smoke 8c+: UPDATE  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM reports that Kai Lightner has done Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Over the past month, Kai and his mother have taken two trips to RRG and one to NRG and in total done three 8b+.

The grade progress for the kids has exploded during the last year and there are now at least a handful youngsters at the same level as Adam Ondra was, just turning teenager. The youngest person who has done an 8c+ is Ashima Shiraishi (11) also by Southern Smoke.

Profile video of the also very succesful 13 year old competition climber. (c) Elodie Sarocco who has published a nice gallery on her FB page.

 
 
8B+ FA by James Webb  Facebook
 

James Webb has had a very productive trip in Switzerland that finshed of in the best possible way by doing the FA of La Rustica 8B+ in Valle Bavona.

"One of the coolest projects i've ever climbed. Big thanks to Carlo for showing me this thing. Climbed it basically on my last day, last literal try. Couldn't ask for a better finish to my trip. Back to the USA tuesday.

 
 
Fabelita 8c by Muriel Sarkany (38)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany has done Fabelita 8c in Santa Linya and she did on her last try on her last day during a one week trip. The 38 year old has had a nice progress on the rock since she stopped competing in 2010.

In total she has won 17 World Cups. Five times she won Overall and in 2003 she was the World Champion. During her competition career she was for most of the time fully sponsored by the Belgian sport committee.

"Now I'm working as E9 representant for Benelux ;-) It's a nice job because it's great clothes. I don't know yet what I'm gone do exactly in the next months except trying new projects and have fun on rocks.

 
 
8c Fish Eye by Anak Verhoeven (16)  (39) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimb2climb.be reports that Anak Verhoeven has done her first 8c, Fish Eye in Oliana. Anak started to climb when she was four and the last three years she won the Euro Youth Cup and last year she was #22 in the world champion.

 
 
A Muerte 9a (8c+) by Felix Neumärker  Facebook
 

Felix Neumärker who recently did La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana has done A Muerte for which he gives a personal grade of 8c+. He did the same thing for Chocolate Caliente suggesting 8c. During the last two seven weeks, Felix has done seven 8c+ to 9a+ in Siurana.

 
 
9a and 8c+ FA by Ramonet  Facebook
 

Ramón Julian Puigblanque has put up La Parada de los Monstruos 9a in Montanejos and El noi de Manlleu 8c+ in Montserrat. During the last three years Ramonet has been the #1 climber in the world performing on both rock and in competitions.

 
 
8A+ flash by Domen Škofic (18)  (14) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic has flashed Ganymede Takeover 8A+ in Cresciano and fell on the last move on The Dagger 8B (+), before he did it on his third try. "I would belief that The Dagger is 8A+ if somebody would say that." The 18 year old also did Confessions 8B (+) in ten tries over 45 minutes.

Last year, Domen won all five Euro Youth Cups and made it to the finals once in the WC. In 2013, he plans to do all the WC's and also the bouldering in Log Dragomer. In the 8a Combined Juior Game, he is a superior #1.

 
 
9a again by Mateusz Haladaj  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMateusz Haladaj has done his seventh 9a, Direct Open your mind in Santa Linya and he goes to #6 in the ranking game. (c) Maciek Lesser Gajewski

"Finally done, SO HAPPY!!! The hardest route of mine, personal grade 9a/+. Not my style. So good, has every type of movement, simply great sort of climbing. Took me more than one year, over 200 tries, had an accident on it… Big thing. Thanks for all the friends for support and never ending belay

 
 
8C FA "The Kingdom" gets Traversi to #1 in the game  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has done his fifth 8C during the last six months by setting up The Kingdom in Brione.

"The long standing Vecchio left project. Many days of work. Hardest 5 moves I've ever linked together and it's perfectly my style. Shouldery moves, high feet, and very tense climbing. Last day in Swiss and couldn't be more psyched to finally piece this one together.

It was all caught on video for the new film that I have been working on called "Heritage" which documents my experiences and climbs in Swiss over the last 6 months. Should be available in the next few months.

 
 
8c by Johanna Ernst  Facebook
 

Johanna Ernst, the World Cup winner 2008 (being 16) and in 2009 she won the WC again and also become the world champion, has done Fish Eye 8c in Oliana on her 3 Go. Last year she did her first 8c+ and she was #3 in the WC.

 
 
Megos does La Rambla 9a+ and A Muerte 9a both 2nd Go  (17) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture19 year old Alexander is about to take climbing into a new era and yesterday he did La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana on his second go. Dani Fuertes reports that apparently he fell just two moves before the easier finish on his flash attempt, getting beta from Felix Neumärker. Alexander also did A Muerte 9a, 2nd go.

It should be noted that this was the first 9a+ 2nd go, and three days ago he did the first 9a onsight ever.

 
 
8c+ by Piotr Schab (16)  Facebook
 

Piotr Schab has done Coma Sant Pere 8c+ in Margalef. The 16 year old is #8 in the ranking game and he has previously done three 8c+ and Era Vella 9a.

 
 
8B flash by Niccolò Ceria (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolò Ceria has had a good start on his trip to Västervik where he in almost freezing conditions flashed The Hourglas SDS 8B. "Nice moment! Used the logical sit start with undercling and the lower sidepull for the left. In this way, everyone can start from the sit, although it adds a move to the original one. really cool line, I'm not sure about the grade, it could be an hard 8A+ or lower-end 8B. hard to say on the flash attempt."

Nico also did do two 8A's out of which one he says was "basically a flash" as it shares an easy top out of a 7A he had done earlier. It should be noted that all grades given by Nico is one or two grades lower than the original ones.

 
 
8B+ during the night by Chris Webb Parsons  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons has done Dandelion Mind 8B+ in Peak District and it was a mini adventure. "Amazing night session.
We headed off on an adventure, walked through 1 meter deep snow with head torches and abseiled into the crag to find it dry ;) 3 sessions off effort and I managed to climb this amazing problem at 11pm. Unbelievable good climbing, one of the best. Off to work on an oil rig for 1 month now so good timing."
(c) Panda Fenemore

 
 
Hörst kids progress  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEric Hörst, auther of eight climbing training books with a sales over 300 000 and father of two sons 10 & 12 who both have done a 8b (+) gives us some insight and we are preparing a full interview.

"There’s emerging research that there’s a “skill window” between the age of 8 and 12 during which kids can best develop motor skills, wire the brain, and—perhaps most important—influence genetic traits, such as muscle fiber type, enzyme and hormone production for speed and strength, etc. Doing the right things during this brief window, in terms of training and experience, appears to be a huge factor in shaping the future adult athlete. (Once the window closes you can never catch up.)

 
 
8c onsight by Adam Ondra  (5) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has been on a rainy trip to Andalucia where he could only climb one day out of two weeks on his new ultimate project. Instead he made the FA of Tres Satelites 8c+ and onsighted Into the Wild 8c in Jaen. On his way back, he found his new 9b project in Catalunya also wet.

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