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Popular training articles  (1) Facebook

12 shortcuts in order to push grades.
Running can be conter-productive
Technical endurance advice
Dyno advice
Redpoint tactics

Jacopo Larcher doing Rhapsody 8c trad  Facebook

In 2004, Dave MacLeod made tha FA of Rhapsody and with 8c and E11 iw was a contendor for the hardest trad route in the world. The fame was also based in the video which really showed his commitment and how dangerous it was. Dave actually said it could be potentially deadly.

Later it was repeated by several people, everyone of whom said it was not dangerous if you instead used dynamic belay. The grades were also questioned as well as the fact that it was an elimination. Jacopo stays away from all this and just says that he is so impressed by Dave, who put it up.

Olympic Airlines stop flying to Kalymnos  Facebook

Climb Kalymnos, which just recently reported that Ryan Air will stop flying to Kos in 2017, comes with more bad news. Olympic Airlines will as of tomorrow stop flying from Athens to Kalymnos. It is said that Astra Airlines will take over but reduce to three flights a week until 2020.

It seems that the best climbing destination will get even better soon as it will get less crowded but how to get there in the prime season as the charter companies mainly fly from mid May to September?

Here are some low price airlines alternatives (as of 2016 but it does not fit Kos airport info): Easy Jet did fly to Kos from Milan, London and Glasgow this year; Vuelving from Rome; Air Berlin.

Anyone who have some further tips how to get to Kalymnos in 2017?

The Art of Climbing - Kilian Fischhuber Scales Headless Children 8b MP  Facebook

Chuck (60) and Maggie (46) Odette looking for 8b+s again  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIn the new Age & Gender Bonus ranking, Chuck Odette (60) is #3 and his partner Maggie (46) is #26. It is very interesting that they both did not start pushing hard until they were 40. Maggie has just done her second 8b+ and Chuck has just done an 8b but his ambition is to get back on 8b+ level. They are both on lookout for the next project to get inspired by.

Chuck: "I need more rest and more yoga than I used to. And I have to continue working my weakness, which is power, while focusing on climbs that suit my strength, which is endurance."

Maggie: "For training, we spent most of the winter bouldering in Moe's Valley and Marioland, both in southern Utah. We plan to continue that program, taking about 3 months every year to boulder for training power, which is our biggest weakness. In some places we've also been able to hang gymnastic rings or a pull-up bar for reps at the end of climbing days."

We need more 8C+s - including upgraded 8Cs  Facebook

The first 8C+ suggestion was done by the former World Champion Mauro Calibani for his FA of Tonino 78 in 2004. Later it was downgraded and that is also the case for most of the 20+ boulders which were given 8C+.

However, during the last years, it seems that we have gone from grade inflation to grade deflation. As it stands, excluding Traverses and contrived Boulders, only Guillaume Glairon-Mondet and Daniel Woods have put their neck out proposing 8C+s for FAs. Daniel first for The Process in 2015 and later he upgraded Hypnotized Minds from 2010 and yesterday for Creature from a Black Lagoon. Guillaume's has later been given a personal grade.

The first and only 8C+ suggested upgrade, after a repeat, was done by Adam Ondra for Gioia in 2011. Talking to several of the best boulderers in the world during the last years, examples of potential upgrades have been forwarded, based on their trying hard without success. Is it not kind of strange that 15 years after the first 8Cs were done, only Daniel Woods, Adam Ondra and Guillaume Glairon-Mondet think they have reached a new level?

8c+ (b+) MP by Roland Hemetzberger  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRoland Hemetzberger comes with the great news on Instagram that he has repeated Alex Huber's multi-pitch Nirwana, giving a personal grade of 8b+, instead of 8c+.

Epic Highlights from Adidas Rockstar  Facebook

Do not miss one of the greatest competition videos ever presented.

Second 9a by Jakob Kronberger (15)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Kronberger, who did his first 9a last year, has done the FA of Die rechte Hand 9a in Salzburger Land. In the new Age & Gender Bonus ranking game, the 15-year-old is #5 overall in the world.

"The route is an old project of Klem Loskot. Its a short bouldery route with 10 hard moves on small holds. The route is just a part of a superhard project. After the 9a is over, there is a boulder which is for shure 8B but it should be possible for stronger climbers. There isn't a possibility to rest in the route. It would be very interesting how hard the whole route is. Maybe 9b but I can't really tell how hard it exactly is because I am not even able to do all the moves of the upper boulder. If anyone is interested in the route, feel free to contact me."

Third 8C+ FA by Daniel Woods  (9) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has done his third 8C+ FA, Creature from a black lagoon. His wife Courtney says it has been a long summer project. We got the pic from Paul Robinson, who also got it on video.

The first 8C+ FA was Hypnotized Minds, which Daniel set up six years ago as an 8C but there were upgrade suggestions, first by some world class boulderers who could not repeat it, and in 2016 also by Woods. In 2015, he also gave 8C+ for FA The Process. Overall, including 22 8C's, the 169 cm tall has the most impressive Boulder ticklist in the world. In 2010 he won the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

On Instagram, Daniel explains the process and comments the grade.

" We are left dumbfounded to realize that the same level in bouldering has maintained from Fred Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, and Klem loskot a decade ago until now. We can either acknowledge what is a level up from the standard of 15 (based off of consensus over the years) or continue climbing v15 (8C) for another decade."

Undiscovered - Isabelle  (15) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus, #1 in the 8a ranking game, is featured in a really interesting interview in Climbing.

“I know I’m one of the best and anyone who really likes climbing knows that too,” she said, “but when it comes down to it, sponsorship companies would rather put money into cookie-cutter Barbies and CrossFitters. I’m a rock climber and I don’t fit into their box, so they simply aren’t interested.”

The fact is that Isabelle, the female who's putting up the most hard core FAs in the world, actually does not even get free shoes, etc. (c) Chad Greedy - FA of Microkline 8A+ (B) in Rocklands, last month.

Speed climbing should vary almost like Lead routes  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlessandro Marrocchi and Enrico Rogora, the father and trainer of Laura Rogora, have published an open letter to IFSC in regards to Speed climbing. 8a totally agrees with their thoughts and based on discussion here comes with some further considerations and a solution on how to get greater chances to make Combined climbing a success in Tokyo.

The number of Speed walls are very limited and actually there are just eleven certified ones, which in fact the World Championship wall in Paris did fail to be. In Europe there are three certified walls but none in the USA.

One simple way of increasing interest for Speed climbing among climbers and gyms is of course to allow 12 meter walls and to set different Speed routes for each event and gym.

This would make it more interesting for the Lead/Boulder climbers to take the Speed challenge. The biggest obstacle for having a strong interest for climbers to run for the Olympics in Tokyo 2020 is the lack of Speed walls around the globe. On the other hand, why should a commercial gym invest in a certified Speed wall that most probably will not get any big interest whatsoever?

If IFSC cannot guarantee several hundred certified Speed walls around by 2017, there will be limited interest in the Combined. It is also immoral to let one company be the only official and certified manufacturer of Speed holds. More critiscs from Climbing Business Journal.

Kinga Ociepka-Grzegulska climbs a 9a  Facebook

Kinga Ociepka-Grzegulska, the Youth World Champion from 2001, has sent Sprawa Honoru 9a established by Bogdan Rokosz in 2008 in Mamutowa Cave near Krakow, Poland. Kinga is the very first Polish female climber to do such a hard grade.

- It's very hard to say how many session, really a lot, because it is an combination of 3 hard routes in a cave I have done every of them before and also some other combination. I am climbing there from years, it's my home crag which is 15 minutes from my house and now when I have two children I don't have possibility to try so hard routes in other places. Maybe few months through 4-5 seasons.

Sprawa Honoru 9a - Kinga Ociepka-Grzegulska from Wojtek Kozakiewicz on Vimeo.

Skin care by Climbskin  (8) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbskin has helped us out with some skin care advises. Chris Sharma is one of their ambassadors.

- "It is a great product, it moisturizes and rebuilts your skin. It is not like the waxy or oily materials, you can actually put it on before you climb which is one of the most amazing things. Climbskin is gonna change people's climbing. It is by far the best product on the market".

Smart climbing at the Kalymnos Festival 2016  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureThe 10th edition of the world-famous Kalymnos Climbing Festival introduces an innovative contest modus: there will be an open fun marathon, which is based on the Vertical-Life Climbing App. Climbers can participate in pairs (female, male or mixed category). They will gather points for their ascents by marking them directly in the app. The scoring system corresponds to the 8a ranking game.

As we have seen, the contest system by Vertical-Life proves to be a useful tool for Climbing Festivals: it had worked for other open competitions such as Melloblocco, Dolorock and the Austria Festival before.

First 9a by Mark Anderson (39)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMark Anderson from Rockclimbers training manual has done his first 9a, Shadowboxing in Rifle. It took the 39-year-old 28 days of projecting and it is all nicely explained in the blog. (c) Mike Anderson

"Physically, I was able, but mentally I was not prepared to accept that I was good enough to climb such a hard route. Overcoming that barrier and sticking with it to the end was the most mentally difficult thing I’ve ever done—harder than the Cassin Ridge, finishing a marathon off the couch, Boot Camp, or the endless drudgery and starvation of high school wrestling. Never have I had to persevere through so much persistent failure, so many setbacks, over so many days and multiple seasons. So many times I could have quit, and I would have been well-justified in doing so. But I kept going. Each off-season, I looked at fat Mark in the mirror and wondered if I’d be able to regain my form in time for the next season. Each time I did. The day of the send was a microcosm of the entire campaign. So many things didn’t go perfectly, so many moments of doubt or indecision crept in to derail my focus. But I kept moving towards the goal, and I was rewarded for it."

Fifth 8c for Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a this spring, being 14 years old, has made an one day ascent of Redbull 8c in Collepardo, where she also onsighted an 8a. The 15-year-old is in the #1 in the female ranking game as well as in the overall Age & Gender ranking where Adam Ondra is #2.

"On my second go I fell on the last move. The next try I felt more tired but fought until the chain sending my first 8c in a day. The route is about 20-25 meters long with a hard boulder in the last meters. Now I am training for the world championship in November in China. it will be the last competition of the season and then I hope I will be able to climb on rock and to find a new hard project."

Zangerl, Ojeda & McInerney's boot camp  Facebook

Adidas Rockstar - Best of  Facebook

adidas ROCKSTARS 2016 - Best Of from World of Freesports on Vimeo.

TNF Festival below The Eiger with 500 participants  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureLauterbrunnen, Switzerland – 500 people from 21 different countries, some as from far away as the USA and Canada to Hong Kong, descended upon The North Face Mountain Festival over the weekend for three days of intense outdoor adventure and exploration. Massive 70 plus activities were completed, which included everything from trail running, climbing and hiking, to paragliding, canyon jumping, canyoning, rafting and alpinism.

Away from the outdoor pursuits, festival goers could enjoy all that the event’s Base Camp had to offer – the aim being to inspire, learn and celebrate after returning from the mountains. Inspiration started in the form of tales from the brand’s athlete team, such as Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger’s first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. Foodies could learn how to transform basic food supplies into tasty and nutrious meals to fuel their bodies during an expedition. Creative minds learned how to best capture the great outdoors through a photography workshop. Performance obsessed explorers discovered new ways to preprare their bodies for the mountain. Finally, there was a chance to celebrate the day’s events and stunning surroundings with locally sourced food and drinks, live bands, and DJs.

Anam Cara 8B+ by Chris Rauch  Facebook

Anam Cara 8B+ by Chris Rauch from Karoline Sinnhuber on Vimeo.

Rocklands from Thilo Schröter  Facebook

Bouldering in Rocklands 2016 from Thilo Schröter on Vimeo.

2nd 8c for Martina Cufar Potard (39)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMartina Cufar Potard, the World Champion 2001, has done her second 8c, Max Power in Bionnassay.

"Hard for me (crux being a long move)!!! I didn't count the tries...but I knew the moves before I even tried it, when belaying Nico 5 years ago (pregnant) when he did the FA. He told me I am supposed to do the first female took me one summer of serious tries:-)"

The Slovenian did her first 8c in 2005, at the same time as she finished her very successful competition career, which started some 20 years ago. Martina was the first world class competition climber from Slovenia. It is also interesting that she just climbs and does some campus only once in a while. In total, she projected the 8c for some 20+ sessions but now she says will be back on onsight mode again.

The Hourglass 8B in Västervik  Facebook

The Hourglass 8B from 45degrees on Vimeo.

9a again by Daniel Fuertes and José luis Palao  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Fuertes and José luis Palao, in the picture by Javi Pec, have done Autoengaño 9a in Rodellar. In total, Daniel has done six 9a's just in 2016 and for José it was the second one as he also did Siempre inconformistas last week.

Adidas Rockstar  Facebook

Narasaki & Ganbret Adidas Rock Stars  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureOnce again, Adidas Rockstars pulled off an amazing show, which as always finished with a superfinal, where two finalists battled the last Boulder on time. As for the female, it actually took Janja Garnbret 4+ minutes while Tomoa Narasaki needed just 16 seconds. Tomoa has previousy won both the WC and the World Championship whereas Janja is on one of the top positions in the Lead WC and won the World Championship. The runner-ups were Jessica Pilz and Jan Hojer.

In total, 72 athletes from 22 countries were invited. During the qualification and semi, normal IFSC rules applied. In the final with 3 500 spectators, a knock-out format was used and only three competitors remained after the first two Boulders. The fourth Boulder was a superfinal for the two best.

Adam Ondra's endurance training  Facebook

Sharma fell about 30 times from 18 meters on Alasha (9b?)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureImagine, spending about 20 days, mainly alone, and falling like 20 times from 18 meters down into the Mediterranean sea. The impact hitting the water is enormous and a bit dangerous, but even so, when Chris Sharma reached the surface he couldn't stop swimming around looking for a new crux sequence. After ten more monster whippers, he decided to rappel down finding out that it was an 8B Boulder!

Could you please explain how you projected Alasha from when you found it?

I found the wall about five or six years ago. Miquel Riera and I did a reconnaissance mission where we swam about 6 kilometers scoping out all the caves and walls. After seeing this line from below I inevitably had to rappel in to see the line and holds better. I then began trying the route from the bottom.

However after trying for many days over several trips I realized that my effort was a bit hopeless unless I came back with a rope and really figured the moves out. So this September I came and spent about 7-8 days just working the upper section on rappel. The crux sequence is so tricky for the feet and body positions and is very powerful for the fingers. Bit by bit though I started to understand the moves better and better until I felt like I could give some good goes.

It was a very special morning when I sent. With just my buddy Ricardo filming and the waves crashing. One of my top 10 moments in climbing for sure!

9b? DWS FA by Chris Sharma on Mallorca  (6) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Sharma opened the DWS Es Pontas ten years ago. No grade suggestion was forwarded but he agreed that it might be a 9b and in fact nobody has come close to repeating it. Now Chris reports on Facebook that he has done something similar. (c) Adrian Garcia

"Last week I was able to send a long term project that I'd been trying over the last 5 years on the northwest coast of Mallorca. In honor of my beautiful daughter I named the line #Alasha. So proud of this one. I really had to work hard, dig deep and pull out all the tricks in the book. As you can see it's quite a stunning piece of stone in a very epic location. It's a very different style to Es Pontas but I'd say it's somewhere in the similar difficulty range.

In this picture I'm entering the crux boulder sequence (maybe around 8B) at about 18 meters high. Somewhat auspicious was the fact I sent it around the 10 year anniversary of my ascent of Es Pontas . As time passes , it's crazy to see so many things change and yet the passion is still quite the same. Life is good! A nice note to be entering the climbing season on! So much gratitude to my wife."

It became an 8C Obsession for Łukasz Dudek  (4) Facebook

Łukasz Dudek had done 13 routes graded 9a before doing Obsession, a very long roof 8C Boulder. During 2016, Dudek has also done some multi-pitches up to 8b+, although he took a bad fall once. Planet Mountain has the MP story.

Chris Frick is peaking at 48  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Frick (48) started climbing in 1982. By doing Enfant de Bohème 8c at Basler Jura in 2015 and then Goldfinger 8c at Gimmelwald in August he reached a personal best. Some days ago he did his 300th route in the realm of the french eighth grade.

- Progressing at 45+ is still possible. It's all about motivation and love for climbing. One can't neglect busy times with family, job, etc. But take care of yourself. Climbing means life quality. After a surgery (labrum fixation) four years ago I tried to redefine my climbing. Clear structure in days on and off helps as well as intelligent training including antagonist and stretching exercises. Most important was to get rid of so-called energy vampires in life, work and food. I found vegan nutrition works best for me. Weight control is now a piece of cake (-10 kg!). All this resulted in an energy blast that now holds on since two years. If you feel the fire inside, then go and live your dreams. Don't be stupid and say you're too old and get trapped in convenience and passiveness. To be still on is great. Enjoy life!

8A+ by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in Grampians  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Silver Platter 8A+ in Grampians. "Very satisfying as a last day send! In between rain showers, being keen paid off!" Here is her blog report about her two month long trip, including also sending Punks in the Gym 8b+, with David Mason, who took the picture of her on So you think you can dance 8A.

Ryan Air stops flying to Kos/Kalymnos in 2017  Facebook comes with the very sad news that Ryan Air will stop their flights to Kos next year. Already this year they cancelled several flights and it is said that there are about 20% less climbers on the island.

New Matt Fultz Sending and Training  Facebook

Age & Gender Ranking  Facebook

We have played with the rankings giving 150 points extra per year once you turn 36, 250 extra points for every year if you are younger than 19 and also 1 000 bonus points for female.

13 840 Adam Ondra 1993 - 11 900 Isabelle Faus 1993
13 832 Laura Rogora 2001 - 11 853 Alex Puccio 1989
13 193 Loic Zehani 2001 - 11 786 James Webb 1987
13 150 Ramón Puigblanque 1981 - 11 700 Ryuichi Murai 1994
13 050 Jakob Kronberger 2001 - 11 532 M Mascarenas 1997
13 045 Chuck Odette 1955 - 11 500 Toshi Takeuchi 1986

Further down in the list there are many names very high up in the ranking that have not been in the headlines yet, like: Franz Fackler (56), Ida Kups (17), Anna Enrich (54), Steve Crow (59), Amelia Marcusson (14) and Toma Strnad (41).

Narasaski comments on his victories and is going for the Olympics  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureLast year, Tomoa Narasaki was #4 in the Youth World Championship and #30 overall in the World Cup. The Japanese started out 2016 with being #18 and #15 but then something kicked in. During the last six events, his worst result was #2.

- I' am so happy about my result and my performance also. My two dreams "World Cup winner and World Champion" have come true this year. I am thankful for all the support.

I think my successful result this year is due to changing attitude and environment. I tried to go outside climbing for improving my technical skill. I met a good body training coach last year. I often train how to use my body in the fitness gym. I watched video of Boulder World Cups for learn body position, then I make similar problems to my self.

The 170 cm tall and 58 kg heavy guy started climbing when he was ten years old because of his brother. Previously he had been training apparatus gymnastics. Outdoors, he has done 8B+ and he says that he is going for the Olympics in Tokyo 2020 for sure. (c) Eddie Fowke

15 male and 13 female participated in Combined  Facebook

IFSC has experienced some server problems but finally there are the Combined results. What is interesting to see is actually that just a couple of the best male and female participated and none of the best Speed climbers. As an example, Seungwon Cho was close to get the bronze after being 39 - 71 - 37.

Regarding the Combined format suggested by IFSC in Paris, the latest news is that they have withdrawn this and they are considering alternative solutions like the one from 8a.

Joe Kinder gets artsy with his new La Cucaracha 8c+ video!  Facebook

Leonidio Climbing Festival 10-13/11  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMore info from the new crag with some 800 routes three hours from Athens.

Rocklands 2016 up to 8B  Facebook

rocklands 2016 from David Kompatscher on Vimeo.

Paris Bouldering Highlights  Facebook

Bouldering on Hawaii  Facebook

The Aloha Project Chapter 3: Justin RIdgely from Ryan Moss on Vimeo.

How to dry a wet hold with Adam Ondra  Facebook

Adam Ondra's fairytale story from Paris  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra, the double World Champion from 2014, shares his thoughts on the World Championship in Paris, where he was #1 in Lead and #2 in Boulder. "Additionally, there is finally one Instagram account which is official and truly mine."

- My overall feeling from Paris is for sure like a dream. I think the
whole 2016 season just worked out perfectly in order to be 100% prepared for Paris. Even though I have been focusing on my outdoor projects, I
have been in the strict training regime in between the trips and thus
trained indoors a lot anyways, especially in the spring season when I
was finishing university. And just those few weeks before Paris, I could transform all the training into the plastic - like being used to the PU holds and style of WC routes and boulders.

Every day before Paris my confidence was growing and the last training in Innsbruck was extremely satisfying. Being in Paris, I felt strong and confident every single round and that is obviously incredibly important in order to stay calm relaxed, yet motivated. In bouldering finals, I was slightly disappointed also because I felt so good in the previous rounds and I knew I did not make my best, but of course 2nd place itself is great. So disappointment was mainly about my own performance. It is completely possible that if more big names had made to the finals, I would not have been 2nd. But that is the game.

I just think that for semifinals and finals of World Championships, the style of setting could have been more diverse. The boulders were mainly technical and feet were smears. It was not necessarily bad for me, I actually like technical problems, but in my opinion, the World Champion should be decided on wider range of problems. But it was bit of a problem of the bouldering wall, which was bit too much vertical/slabby, so the routesetter must have had hard time
to set more diverse problems.

Lead was just a fairy-tale story. I was a little afraid that I would be a little tired, climbing 5 days in a row, but it did not really affect that much. I think I just got so fit due to the PUC training. I felt a little tired on the warm up, but as soon as I started climbing in the final route, I just felt great. The route was very nice to climb, with different sections and making that final dyno and enjoying the crowd going crazy just before making the easy topout - it was a lifetime experience... Unforgettable...
(c) Eddie Fowke catching the moment once again.

Lead final highlights  Facebook

A simple Olympic format solution  (21) Facebook

Based on the constraints IFSC has put forward in regards to IOC demands, here is a simple Olympic format solution. All 20 participants will first do one round of Speed, Boulder and Lead. The Top-8 qualify to the final, which is dependent on the ranking sum.

In the final round, all 8 finalists will do all disciplines again and the ranking will determine the medalists. Alternatively, only 6 qualify to the Lead superfinal based on ranking sum of Speed and Boulder.

Day 1: Speed and Boulder qualification format
Day 2: Lead semi format and appointing who is in the Top-8

Day 2: Speed Final
Day 3: Boulder Final and Lead Final/Superfinal

The advantage of this simple solution is that all competitors will compete in all three disciplines, which is not possible in the IFSC suggestion. Only minimal additions would be made to the World Championships and Continental Championships, which will count as the Olympic qualifications.

Adam Ondra wins in possibly the best show ever  (37) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra was last out on the super spectacular final route and the excitement in the arena was full on. In the end everyone was standing up and once the 23-year-old sticked the last double dyno, he turned to the spectators full of adrenaline and continued to the top. Many of the guys in the live-streaming said it was the best show they had seen. Sport climbing is ready for the Olympic Games. (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit

Tis is Africa  Facebook

Tis is Africa from bloc beast films on Vimeo.

"Upside-down" results confirmed in Paris  Facebook

In Bouldering finals, the starting order is reversed in comparison to the semifinal Top-6 results, i.e. the first guy out in the final was the last guy to qualify. However, the competitor with the worst semi result is normally the best in the final. In the 12 events since 2007, the athlete starting on fresh holds has won five golds and three silver.

Beside fighting with worse friction, the last person out has to deal with much more pressure. In Paris, Akiyo Noguchi was #1 before the last Boulder but she had to listen to the arena exploding when Petra Klinger did it. Later Miho Nonaka finished it as well and by then Akiyo did very well know that she was no longer going to be #1. Instead, she did know that she had to top to get the gold.

Suddenly, the winner of the qualification and semifinal, who had also performed best on the three first Boulders, could not handle the pressure. In reality, only one of the girls had worse results on the last Boulder problem.

Already in 2007, I started to talk about this "upside-down" result since I witnessed it live in Aviles and spoke to Daniel Dulac. He had won the qualification and in the semi he was the only person onsighting all four problems. In the final, he was dead last with no tops. Daniel said it was just awful to sit and listen to the others top out making the spectators go wild and as a matter of a fact, this was his last competition.

What I am putting emphasis on sre five golds and three silvers out of twelve sets of medals. IFSC has to deal with this and find a solution.

Graham on 8C missions to get a 9A  (18) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham, the one who has put up the most hard core boulders in the world, has found a mega 8C project in Fionnay where you can add a possible 8C direct start making it a potential 9A. Extremely bad weather has created more rest and motivation than ever and Dave feels in very good shape. (c) < href=""target="_blank">Fred Moix

"Working on these amazing projects, 8C rigs out of which one has a 9A start. It is incredible! We have tried so many hard boulders we were very close on but could not try more cuz they just get wet. The weather is brutally f***ed haha. It is so bad... everything is soaked again

Waiting for them to dry up Graham yesterday opened, Taste The Rainbow 8B in Trient and an escape is also some 8C's near Verbier.

8B+ and 8B FA in Champorcher by Niccolo Ceria (19)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolo Ceria has done the FA of The ghost ship in Champorcher, which took him seven days of effort. "Majestic rig, best personal FA and probably my hardest so far, big emotion!" More info in his blog.

Five days later he did the FA of Murano. "Champorcher starts to be an important bouldering spot of North west. The quality of rock is better than other places of the valley and there are almost 100 lines from 3th grade. Now other projects are waiting for a first ascent up there, but I would also like to go in other place like Fionnay or Barbara Refuge to change rock and environments." The 19 year old is #7 in the ranking game. (c) Marco Pelle

9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger  (4) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePetr Pavlicek who has done yet another trip with Adam Ondra to Flatanger, reports: "After Change 9b+ and Thors Hammer 9a+, Norway or the whole Scandinavia have 3rd route in 9a range.

During our stay in Norway in May 2013, Adam bolted several projects. 4 of them are already done, all of them super nice. 8a, 8b+, 8c+ and today this 9a. It is rather short, compared to the other lines in this incredible cave, but it has super nice hard bouldery moves and a really tricky dyno, very low above the ground, into a tiny hold which you can not see.

But this is just a little warm up, now the time for really super hard projects here comes...

8b+ by Mirko Caballero (12)  (4) Facebook

Mirko Caballero has done his fifth 8b+, Scarface in Smith Rocks. "Yea! So psyched to send this rig! Great powerful climbing leads to a hard sequence over the lip and then fun scary run-out face climbing to the top! Good 'ole Smiffy classic!" In the Combined Ranking Game the 12 year old is #1 for youngsters up to 19 years old!

Favresse' hardest crack in Norway  (13) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanet Mountain reports that Nicolas Favresse has opened The Recovery Drink in Jössingfjord - Norway, giving it no grade but saying it is his hardest crack ever, so it should be at least 8c. Nicolas comments that some gear was pre-placed in order to make it easier to clean the 35 m overhanging crack after falls.

I have finally sent my long term king line crack project in Norway last Wednesday! I feel so happy and complete;) It's for sure one of the coolest line I have ever climbed and the hardest crack I have ever redpointed. (c) Jean-Louis Wertz

7C+ flash by Alexandra Ladurner  Facebook

Alexandra Ladurner has made a very impressive flash of Dark dog 7C+ in Zillertal which no other 8a member has flashed, included several top guys. "Totally unexpected. Maybe completely my style...great day!

9a by Mateusz Haladaj  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMateusz Haladaj has done Ciudad de dios which is his fourth 9a in Santa Linya the last 12 months and he is #5 in the ranking game.

"So happy! My desired and hardest project so far. Solid grade considering there are two 8c+ sections in a row, feels closer to 9a+… Very thanks to all the nice people I’ve met in the cave for a great atmosphere and support. Hasta proxima amigos!

8b by Maggie Smith-Odette (43)  Facebook

Maggie Smith-Odette has done her first 8b, Faithless in Coliseum which is very impressive as she started to climb when she was 29 years old and now is 43.
"FFA. hardest thing i've ever done. nothing better than a route that pumps the shit out of you before you get to the hard moves! ***

Two 8B's and two 8c+'s by Alfons Dornauer (19)  Facebook

Alfons Dornauer is in great shape having, the last week, done two 8B boulders in Zillertal and yesterday he did Reality Check 8c+ in Schleier Wasserfall. In the combined ranking game, the 19 year old is #8.

Today he added The Source 8c+ in Zillertal to his impressive Tick list. "3rd go this year, had to brush the route at first, soo dirty!!! Conditions were perfect! One of the most stunning lines in the valley! MASTERPIECE!!!

8B+ FA by Daniel Woods  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has made yet another high quality hard core test piece by The Purge 8B+ in Elkland. The 23-year-old is #1 in the ranking game which he has been for more or less for the last five years.

"Dave and I found this prow a while back and Dave gave it a try before departing to Europe. He told me it was really good, so I decided to pay it a visit and became obsessed over the movement. The full package line! Crux iron cross from left hand micro crimp to right hand slopery arête leads you into a desperate hand flip into a left hand underclin, followed by compression climbing, The topout is not easy either. I resorted to a night session to get better temps. One of my favorite lines.

Another 9a by Alexander Megos  (10) Facebook

Click to Enlarge reports that Alexander has done Pantera 9a on his third go. An interview with his trainer, Patrick Matros, is coming up.

Regarding Markus Bock, who has put up 13 out of the 15 9a's in Frankenjura, Pantera is the #12 hardest. Alexander has previously done the two hardest during this spring. ©

Corona 9a+ by Alexander Megos  (27) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlexander Megos has repeated Corona 9a+ which FA (2006) Markus Bock ranks #1 hardest in Frankenjura. "It was a nice route. I liked it a lot.", says Alexander. Adam Ondra made the first repeat in 2009.

Two months ago, the 19 years old made the first 9a onsight, Estato Critico and a second go ascent of La Rambla 9a+. Training article by Megos trainer for five years. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron reports that he needed 10 tries over a total of three days spread out over six months and that he did it actually twice in order to get some nice pictures.

Rainshadow 9a by Jordan Buys  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJordan Buys jumps two grades by doing his first 9a, Rainshadow in Malham which was set up by Steve McClure. "Best climbing day of my life so far!!!" (c) CAC.

Steve comments, "A great effort. Jordan has really put the time and effort in, and totally deserves to get the ascent. He's been trying it a lot and was shut down last year by a terribly wet season with awful conditions. I’m really glad that at last a Brit has climbed one of my 9’s – hopefully more will follow, there are another 6 or so out there! Rainshadow is a truly brilliant route, perhaps my best, on the best UK sport cliff.

Era Vella 9a by Michaël Fuselier  (10) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaël Fuselier has done Chris Sharma's Era Vella in Margalef, the high class and most repeated 9a in the world. It was Mikaels first 9a for the French who has been a succesful competiton climber who a dozen times have made it into the finals in the Lead World Cup. Here his blog in French with pictures. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

8b+ sport route on trad gear by James Pearson  (6) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Pearson has done the first repeat by A Denti Stretti 8b+ at La Balma, 18 years after the FA by Allesandro Manini and he did not use his bolts!

First James made an onsight attempt taking a gigantic fall from the final boulder, 2/3 down the route.

More info at James blog. " It’s funny how you can sometimes make your best performance when you least expect it, when you feel tired, or weak, or just don’t care any more." (c) Riky Felderer

9a+ FA by Alexander Megos  (1) Facebook

Alexander Megos has opened Classified 9a+ in Frankenjura. It was bolted by Carsten Seidel some ten years ago and later Christian Bindhammer rebolted it and made it an open project. Last month the 19-year old onsighted Estado Critico 9a and did La Rambla 9a+ second go in Siurana.

In total, Alexander spent three days on the 20 m project and regarding the grade he uses the 9a+ estimation that was given by both Bindhammer and Markus Bock. More info at

Mind Control 8c (+) by Barbara Raudner (40)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Raudner has done Mind Control 8c (+) in Oliana which was put up by Chris Sharma. "For me Mind Control is the most beautiful route I have ever tried. I am very grateful to have had the opportunity to climb such a fantastic line in that international spot in Oliana.

Thanks to all the nice people with who we spend a really great time there. Thanks for all the „venga, venga“!! Hope to see you all again!! Vamos!!"
full story at her website (c) Claudiaziegler

First 8b+ by Kristin Yurdin (42)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM has a nice story of Kristin Yurdin who after nearly twenty years of climbing, has done her first 8b+, Chemical Ali at Smith Rock.

The 42 year old, has been projecting it for three years but she has had limited time as she runs the climbing friendly restaurant Terrebonne Depot with up to 60 hours work.

Part of the success this year was weighted pull-ups after climbing, doing three sets of three pull-ups with 19 kg. Her husband describes also a crucial part of Kristin’s training program as finger-boarding, tread-walling, cutting stuff, grilling things, lifting heavy French fry baskets and carrying cases of wine up 12-foot ladders. Photo: Ian Yurdin

8b again by the Hörst brothers 10 & 12  (11) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst (12) has done True Love in Red River Gorge which was his seventh 8b and harder send. "Really small holds and way reachy for my size. I agree with Mike Doyle, this is harder than God's Own Stone!"

The day after, little brother Jonathan (10) did Swingline 8b. "Great route; very complex-- it took me seven tries." Last month, the little brother did God's Own Stone which goes at 8b+ in the latest topo.

Here is a recent training article focusing on kids progress, made by their father Eric. Eric has sold more than 300 000 climbing training books and has been climbing for more than 35 yeras but when it comes to climbing hard, his sons are now 2-3 grades ahead.

8a+ trad on bolts by Caroline Ciavaldini  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Ciavaldini blogs about her trad send of the bolted Grazie Ricky 8a+ in Cadarese. "It is a bastion of trad in the Italian Alps and a place of battles between pro-bolts and Trad-addicts. I must say that this granite cliff cut with perfect cracks fits quite well to placing friends!

In short, I was scared to death, but jumped into the route with one thing in my head: in Trad, being scared doesn’t help at all. If you know where to place the protection, you just have to focus on the climb and place your gear quickly and well! Easier said than done you would tell me? Oh no, when I do Trad, there is a little "click", I go into robot mode. Once my decision taken, I climb, and even though I'm afraid somewhere inside of me, it does not interfere with my climbing. Quite a magical moment!

'Estato Crítico', 9a by André Neres  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAndré Neres (pic© Ignacio Sandoval Burón) has done his first 9a, Estado Critico in Siurana. "Epic journey for me. Proud to be able to deal with the time pressure... It was a team sending, for sure, thanks to all involved! :)"

What are your thoughts from the amazing 9a onsight by Alexander Megos? "Well, I think Alex OS was just astonishing. It wasn't "just" an 9a onsight, it's a really hard OS. I mean the route is not the best one for OS. It's technical and demanding in many aspects, a quite intense boulder problem and after power resistance where there are no good holds, you can't just stop and watch carefully what to do.

9a FA by Chris Zehani (38)  (5) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Zehani has done his fourth 9a FA, Riders on the storm in Cevennes. "Such a wonderful line very diverse in difficulty, holds and overhangs. To summarize
: the perfect line (hard, beautiful and natural)."
Read full comment. By looking at the trend diagram we can clearly see that the 38 year old is improving year by year.

8b+ (c) onsight by Evgeniya Malamid  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureEvgeniya Malamid has onsighted Los Humildes pa Casa 8b+ in Oliana. "It was just the last route of the day and I wasn't going to onsight it."

It was set up as an 8c which some still think it is although the start is changed. The are less than a handful female that have onsighted 8b+ before including an 8c by Charlotte Durif.

The last year Evgeniya was #9 in the Lead World Cup. "This year I'm going to compete in the World Cup and the European Championship, now climbing on rocks is for pleasure and for training before the season!" (c) Heiko Wilhelm

8a and 7c+ OS by Mirko Caballero (12)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Cabalero has done his third 8a onsight, Big Burly in Red River Gorge and the 12 year old is #2 in the junior combined ranking. " It feels good to be back on the rock after my broken finger.

I started climbing very early as my parents are climbers too. I love bouldering, but started to rope climb as well in 2011. I train in the Gym, but just to get strong. My passion is climbing outdoors, meeting new people and climbing with them.

8b+ OS and more by Sachi Amma  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Amma, who did Era Vella 9a last week, has continued showing great form onsighting Migrayana Profundo 8b+ in Siurana. The Lead World Cup winner 2012 has also done Coma Sent Pere 8c+ second go and some other impressive sends in Siurana. The picture by Eddie Gianelloni is from the 8b+ onsight.

8c+ onsight by Magnus Midtbö in Rodellar  (10) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbö finished a six week trip in Spain, where most of the time was spent projecting a wet 9b, by doing an epic onsight by Cosi van tutte, 8c+ in Rodellar. There are only four other guys who have onsighted at this level including Alexander Megos recent 9a.

The adventure to reach the crag included 200 m swimming in 10 degrees water against the stream. "After getting to the other side, I could only wait for the boat to come with my warm clothes, hoping that this was it, and that there would be no more swimming. Luckily there wasn’t, but on several occasions we had to walk up the river with water above our waists." Check out the amazing full story including more great pics by Henning Wang

In 2011, Magnus was #4 in the world championship and he is also #4 in the 8a ranking game.

To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ by Drew Ruana (13)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRudy Ruana reports through Facebook that his son Drew Ruana has done the classic To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ in Smith Rocks. This was the fifth 8b+ by the 13 year old who did the first one year ago.

To Bolt is the first American 8b+ and it was put up by Jean-Baptiste Tribout in 1986 at the time when bolting was rather controversial. It is known to be very technical and mentally challenging being 37 m long, dead vertical and no rests.

"It was supposed to be a work session. Ian Yurdin encouraged him up...talking him up to the next "good" hold. Drew probably has 20 tries spread over a year total. Pretty grueling route for him. Its not his favorite style of climbing, " says the prod father and the pic was taken by mother Christine.

Dan Mirsky checks in with an 8c+ FA  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDan Mirsky has done the FA of Solid Gold 8c+ in Cathedral. "So pscyched about this route that I started an 8a account :) It is 'the line' for sure. In my opinion the straightest, most direct and most difficult way to climb Golden, It cuts out all the big rests and tackles the whole cave.

I am 30 years old and am currently living and traveling and climbing in the US with my girlfriend katy dannenberg in an airstream trailer. We spent this winter season down in Southern Utah living in the desert and climbing at the VRG and Cathedral. Before that I was living in CO. I have been climbing for 11 years. I have been a serious sport climber since 2006, I have lived near and spent lots of time climbing in Rifle and have travelled in the US fairly extensively."
Interview at DPM (c) Dave Pegg/Wolverinepublishing

Late blooming in climbing  Facebook

In most other physical sports, you reach your peak performance in between the age of 25 - 30. In rock climbing we do not yet know when you can expect to be in the best shape of your life but it seems to be not before you are 35 - 40. However, there are many 40+ who keep progressing and it just might be that if you continue to train as hard and intensive as being a youngster, some can continue to peak until they are 50 years.

Would it not be nice if Chris Sharma did his first 9c+ when he has turned 50 :)

Era Vella 9a by Sachi Amma  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Amma has done Era Vella 9a in Margalef on his sixth try. Last year, Sachi won the Leas World Cup. (c) Eddie Gianelloni

Supernova 9a 2:Go by Said Belhaj  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSaid Belhaj blogs about an unexpected 2:Go send of Supernova in Vadiello which was his fifth 9a.

"I had planned at least 3 weeks on the route so hopefully it would turn out ok in the end. As my shape felt so bad I instead worked the route VERY well, planning to attack once I felt a bit better.

This was for the me a new step in red-pointing, climbing so perfectly was definitely the key to success. No expectations another. I thought this route would take ages (when dogging the routes before the burn the crux had felt harder than ever) but sometimes unexpected things happen

Jungle Speed 9a by Geir Söderin  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureGeir Söderin has after an 18 day long battle done his first 9a, Jungle Speed in Siurana. "You can say what you want about grades but sometimes they can be extremely important :) Check his blog in Swedish.

Geir's continuous progress is something that can motivate and inspire other guys who did not reach the "wonderkid" categorisation. In 2006, he did his first 8b being 20 years old and then he has progressed one grade every two years. Geir has been climbing since he was 3 years old and always been #1 for his age in Sweden.

What is your advice for continuous long term progress?
The most important thing is to continue to push you out of the comfort zone. This is of course something that is not easy follow and some more practical advice is to boulder more. For me the best training is through indoor bouldering. 18 months ago, I set my 9a goal. Last summer I tried some 9a's and this spring I have spent a month here trying different ones. Hopefully I can do one more as I plan to stay around in my car another month.

Hukkataival does Bügeleisen 8B+  (15) Facebook

Nalle Hukkataival reports on Facebook that he has done the third ascent of Klem Loskot's Bügeleisen 8B+ in Malatal from 2001. Video from the ascent by Dominik Preis.

"Just topped out Bügeleisen!!!! YESSSSSS!!! Probably the most epic battle I've ever had with any boulder! Conditions ranged from bad to utter shit and I got sick for several days.. So HAPPY I managed to pull it off at the very last moment!!!!!

8B by Samuel Ometz (17)  Facebook

Samuel Ometz has done his sixth 8B and harder the last month by General Dissaray 8B in Brione. "Hard. Powerful. So happy to do that one! some of the best moves". The 17 year old has quickly moved to #10 in the ranking game.

8b+ by Moritz Perwitzschky (13)  Facebook

Moritz Perwitzschky has done his first 8b+ Speed Baby in Margalef. During the last two weeks he has also done three 8b's. In 2013, he has also done his first 8A boulder traverse.

8a+ OS by Mikel Linacisoro (12) and Àlex Hernández (14)  Facebook

Another two Spaniard kids have reached the 8a+ onsight mark. Mikel Linacisoro has onsighted Las Clochas de Targa in Chulila and Àlex Hernández has onsighted Mon Dieu in Oliana as well as redpointed T1 Full Equip 8c. Both kids have had an extreme progress the last year and are part of the new big kids generation setting new standards ever year.

Kai Lightner (13) does Southern Smoke 8c+: UPDATE  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM reports that Kai Lightner has done Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Over the past month, Kai and his mother have taken two trips to RRG and one to NRG and in total done three 8b+.

The grade progress for the kids has exploded during the last year and there are now at least a handful youngsters at the same level as Adam Ondra was, just turning teenager. The youngest person who has done an 8c+ is Ashima Shiraishi (11) also by Southern Smoke.

Profile video of the also very succesful 13 year old competition climber. (c) Elodie Sarocco who has published a nice gallery on her FB page.

8B+ FA by James Webb  Facebook

James Webb has had a very productive trip in Switzerland that finshed of in the best possible way by doing the FA of La Rustica 8B+ in Valle Bavona.

"One of the coolest projects i've ever climbed. Big thanks to Carlo for showing me this thing. Climbed it basically on my last day, last literal try. Couldn't ask for a better finish to my trip. Back to the USA tuesday.

Fabelita 8c by Muriel Sarkany (38)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany has done Fabelita 8c in Santa Linya and she did on her last try on her last day during a one week trip. The 38 year old has had a nice progress on the rock since she stopped competing in 2010.

In total she has won 17 World Cups. Five times she won Overall and in 2003 she was the World Champion. During her competition career she was for most of the time fully sponsored by the Belgian sport committee.

"Now I'm working as E9 representant for Benelux ;-) It's a nice job because it's great clothes. I don't know yet what I'm gone do exactly in the next months except trying new projects and have fun on rocks.

8c Fish Eye by Anak Verhoeven (16)  (39) Facebook

Click to Enlarge reports that Anak Verhoeven has done her first 8c, Fish Eye in Oliana. Anak started to climb when she was four and the last three years she won the Euro Youth Cup and last year she was #22 in the world champion.

A Muerte 9a (8c+) by Felix Neumärker  Facebook

Felix Neumärker who recently did La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana has done A Muerte for which he gives a personal grade of 8c+. He did the same thing for Chocolate Caliente suggesting 8c. During the last two seven weeks, Felix has done seven 8c+ to 9a+ in Siurana.

9a and 8c+ FA by Ramonet  Facebook

Ramón Julian Puigblanque has put up La Parada de los Monstruos 9a in Montanejos and El noi de Manlleu 8c+ in Montserrat. During the last three years Ramonet has been the #1 climber in the world performing on both rock and in competitions.

8A+ flash by Domen Škofic (18)  (14) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic has flashed Ganymede Takeover 8A+ in Cresciano and fell on the last move on The Dagger 8B (+), before he did it on his third try. "I would belief that The Dagger is 8A+ if somebody would say that." The 18 year old also did Confessions 8B (+) in ten tries over 45 minutes.

Last year, Domen won all five Euro Youth Cups and made it to the finals once in the WC. In 2013, he plans to do all the WC's and also the bouldering in Log Dragomer. In the 8a Combined Juior Game, he is a superior #1.

9a again by Mateusz Haladaj  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMateusz Haladaj has done his seventh 9a, Direct Open your mind in Santa Linya and he goes to #6 in the ranking game. (c) Maciek Lesser Gajewski

"Finally done, SO HAPPY!!! The hardest route of mine, personal grade 9a/+. Not my style. So good, has every type of movement, simply great sort of climbing. Took me more than one year, over 200 tries, had an accident on it… Big thing. Thanks for all the friends for support and never ending belay

8C FA "The Kingdom" gets Traversi to #1 in the game  (9) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has done his fifth 8C during the last six months by setting up The Kingdom in Brione.

"The long standing Vecchio left project. Many days of work. Hardest 5 moves I've ever linked together and it's perfectly my style. Shouldery moves, high feet, and very tense climbing. Last day in Swiss and couldn't be more psyched to finally piece this one together.

It was all caught on video for the new film that I have been working on called "Heritage" which documents my experiences and climbs in Swiss over the last 6 months. Should be available in the next few months.

8c by Johanna Ernst  Facebook

Johanna Ernst, the World Cup winner 2008 (being 16) and in 2009 she won the WC again and also become the world champion, has done Fish Eye 8c in Oliana on her 3 Go. Last year she did her first 8c+ and she was #3 in the WC.

Megos does La Rambla 9a+ and A Muerte 9a both 2nd Go  (17) Facebook

Click to Enlarge Picture19 year old Alexander is about to take climbing into a new era and yesterday he did La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana on his second go. Dani Fuertes reports that apparently he fell just two moves before the easier finish on his flash attempt, getting beta from Felix Neumärker. Alexander also did A Muerte 9a, 2nd go.

It should be noted that this was the first 9a+ 2nd go, and three days ago he did the first 9a onsight ever.

8c+ by Piotr Schab (16)  Facebook

Piotr Schab has done Coma Sant Pere 8c+ in Margalef. The 16 year old is #8 in the ranking game and he has previously done three 8c+ and Era Vella 9a.

8B flash by Niccolò Ceria (19)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolò Ceria has had a good start on his trip to Västervik where he in almost freezing conditions flashed The Hourglas SDS 8B. "Nice moment! Used the logical sit start with undercling and the lower sidepull for the left. In this way, everyone can start from the sit, although it adds a move to the original one. really cool line, I'm not sure about the grade, it could be an hard 8A+ or lower-end 8B. hard to say on the flash attempt."

Nico also did do two 8A's out of which one he says was "basically a flash" as it shares an easy top out of a 7A he had done earlier. It should be noted that all grades given by Nico is one or two grades lower than the original ones.

8B+ during the night by Chris Webb Parsons  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons has done Dandelion Mind 8B+ in Peak District and it was a mini adventure. "Amazing night session.
We headed off on an adventure, walked through 1 meter deep snow with head torches and abseiled into the crag to find it dry ;) 3 sessions off effort and I managed to climb this amazing problem at 11pm. Unbelievable good climbing, one of the best. Off to work on an oil rig for 1 month now so good timing."
(c) Panda Fenemore


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