E11 from Hot Aches productions
Starring: Dave MacLeod, Niall McNair, Claire MacLeod
Watching one guy working one route for 41 minutes might not sound very exciting. And in most cases that wouldn't be the case. This film, however, is an exception to the rule. To be honest, the rule doesnt even apply, cause this is not just a film about a guy working a route, its way more profound.
Id say this is a film about life, human relations, what climbing and climbers are about and, ok, I guess its also the story about how the worlds hardest traditional rock climb, Rhapsody E11 7a (8c+) was finally climbed. Its not a film about peace, freedom and the American way.
Watching E11 should be compulsary for any non-climber considering socializing with climbers on a regular basis. Theres actually a great possibility theyll even enjoy it. I think all of us recognize parts of ourselves in Dave, even though most of us arent quite as obsessed as him.
Here are a few things that differentiates E11 from other climbing films:
· It doesnt portray the climbers as way cool. Dave seems quite an ordinary guy. In reality most climbing stars would be utter dorks if it werent for climbing. (Come on we all know it!).
· You dont want to be Dave MacLeod. Not that theres anything wrong with Dave, far from it. Its just that... well, Rhapsody can be found on Dumbarton rock in Glasgow. No sun, no beach, no great views, no chicks, no cheers, no glamour. Plenty of local drunks though. The weather seems generally miserable and cold and the route looks absolutely menacing... heinous. Add death fall potantial and... need I go on. Id rather be Chris Sharma.
· It feels as though we really get to know the person Dave MacLeod, not only the climber. The tries, the training, the pain, the agony and the triumph. We also get to see and hear Claires (Daves wife) view of it all. Its not always easy to live with an obsessed climber... She represents the voice of reason here and also earns a few points for having a book about Stockholm on her shelf. Good on you there Claire!
· Non-climbers wont hate it. Maybe they wont enjoy it as much as you, but still. All of us whove tried to get our loved ones to join us in the great fun that watching climbing films is, know that that isnt exactly the usual case.
· At no point in the movie, Dave appears to be stoned. Not that common...
The 37 minutes of extra material include Dave working and sending a couple of 8B boulders, soloing Hurley burley, 8b, and redpointing LMens, 8b+.
Subtitles in English, Spanish, French, German and Italian.
This is, hands down, one of the very best climbing movies Ive ever seen. Its up there with the best from the Lowell brothers. It will be interesting to see what Hot Aches Productions will achieve in the future after such a great start.