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Hansjörg Auer's FA in 2012 of The Music of Chance 6c A3  Facebook
 

Kristallwand - MeltingPot - Hansjörg Auer from hannes mair on Vimeo.

 
 
8C (B+) and 8B+ in a day by Ned Feehally  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdward "Ned" Feehally has done Mécanique Élémentaire 8B+ and Jour de Chasse 8C (8B+) on the same climbing day in Fontainebleau. (c) Shaggy

So what is your climbing background and what is the hardest you have done before?
- I guess on paper my hardest problem before this was The Dagger 8B (+). Although I feel like grades rarely reflect how difficult problems actually are to do, and grading scales rarely match up between different climbing areas. I think I have climbed harder problems even if they don't get big grades.

I live in Sheffield and I climb mostly in the Peak where I'm a fan of a bit of highballing. I used to be into comps but they're pretty stressful, so I just try to climb outside when I can. Ned stopped competing in 2013 and has twice made it into a Boulder WC Top-6 final.

 
 
Webb and Hukkataival Highball business in Swaziland; Ep2  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Audrey Sniezek: Work Hard, Climb Harder  (1) Facebook
 

Audrey Sniezek: Work Hard, Climb Harder from Luke Humphrey on Vimeo.

 
 
Best Crash Pad - 2015  Facebook
 

Based on some 1 000 unique votes, Best Crash Pad - 2015? we can see that the biggest improvement, in comparison to the 2013 poll, is that Mad Rock has increased their score. In comparison to the poll 2011, Black Diamond has continuously dropped from 23 %.

18 % Organic (20 % in 2013)
16 % Ocun (14)
15 % Black Diamond (18)
08 % Moon (9)
07 % Mad Rock (3)
06 % Pad (7)
05 % Edelrid, Metolius (7 & 5)
03 % Mammut (3)
01 % Beal, Revolution, Flashed (3, 3 & 2)
10 % Other (7) (Flipp, Petzl and Snap most mentioned)

 
 
Spread Access Awareness To Others  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEach year the access problems increases and the crags get more dirty by litter and poo. Information campaigns like on the picture might help but the best impact is to spread it to the guys who need to learn, see below.

1. Parking - Walk 1 km is good for warming up
2. Trespassing - Walk on roads, no short cuts!
3. Screaming - Sexually offensive words are especially bad
4. Camping - Is normally not allowed anywhere
5. Litter - Bring it home
6. Toilet - The Access Fund tells us what to do with Human Waste

 
 
First 8c+ by Mike Anderson (37)  Facebook
 

Mission Impossible from chris Alstrin on Vimeo.

 
 
Matilda Söderlund - Fun is the Core  Facebook
 

Matilda Söderlund, the best female onsight/flash climber in 2012 when she also was #6 in the world champion, has been training harder than ever for half a year, after getting back from injuries for almost two years. In 2015, the 177 cm Swede wants to improve...

Matilda Söderlund – »Fun is the core!« from cafekraft on Vimeo.

 
 
DWS with Daila Ojeda and the girls  Facebook
 

 
 
Jungle Speed 8c+ (9a) by Magnus Midtbö  Facebook
 

 
 
8*8B+ in Ticino by Ometz' and Cameroni  Facebook
 

 
 
Focus on crag "anti-style" for personal best  Facebook
 

Grades are remarkable standardized around the globe and especially when it comes to endurance routes on specific crags. Routes with "anti-style" challenges are much more difficult to give correct grades as there is no reference.

If the ten meters Action Direct, with crimps and finger pockets in the cruxes, would have been set up today in Oliana and Santa Linya, it might at least gotten 9a+. The reason for this is of course that in such crags, the climbers get adopted to the relatively big holds and the endurance challenges.

To do a route like Action Directe, it helps to practice similar routes to strengthen the tendons and to recruit maximum power. It is also mentally frustration to do so little climbing in cold conditions and instead just struggle compared to climb long routes in the sunshine. So are you eager for a personal best, look for especially boring, bad and painful short routes in beautiful endurance challenging crags :)

 
 
8b+ tradsport by Nico Favresse  (16) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNicolas Favresse, world class in all disciplines from boulder to adventure Bigwall FAs, reports on facebook that he has done the FA, on trad gear, of Ganesh 8b+ in Badami, bolted by Alex Chabot. In total there are close to 200 routes out of which some 15 trad.

- It's one of the coolest line I have climbed trad. Its moves are unique and protects fairly well on the horizontal breaks. It would be great to see other people climbing it clean and if the Indian community agrees it would be so cool to free Ganesh from its bolts which seem to me superfluous. The issue for taking the bolts off is that almost none of the Indian climbers have trad gear... For most of them it's already pretty difficult to afford sport climbing equipment... so we have to take that into account.

 
 
Derek Powell peaking at 45  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDerek Powell started to climb 1995 and three years later being 29 he did his first 8a. Six, seven and nine years later, he made personal best again and last year he did his first 8c, Death Sentence in Jailhouse finding 30 knee bars. Now he has done his second, Flower Power also in Jailhouse. In the 40+ ranking game, Derek in #19.

 
 
8c+ (9a) again by Magnus Midtbö  Facebook
 

Magnus Midtbö, one of the best climbers in the world the last ten years both on rock and in comps, has done Esclatamasters in Perles giving it a personal grade of 8c+.

"Such a fun route at an amazing location!! Not so much my style with all the tiny crimpers, yet it got done 6th go in total. Personally think 8c+ is a more appropriate grade."

Last week he did the same thing with Jungle Speed in Siurana and as both routes are the first or very quick 9a for many, the routes should be at risk for being down graded. Most probably, the routes are at least easier than Action Direct which today is considered as the first 9a in the world even if it was put up as 8c+/9a. It is just logical and natural that we have grade deflation and it is great that climbers like Midtbö bothers to give personal grades which might stop it.

8a has for many years said that some grades especially in Spain need to be corrected in order to fit to the global grading system. For this we have been criticized even if a, relatively, large portion have been or are subject of being down graded. Action Direct has been repeated 15 times but only by Alex Megos during the last three years. This might suggest that it is a very hard 9a, based on the current grade deflated standard.

 
 
8a ethics in the middle of two extreames  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn 2002, 8a presented the first ever Practice & Ethics in Sport Climbing based on a traffic light system in order to give general guidelines for what is good practice during redpoint, onsight and flash etc. We thought the recommendations could be good for the newcomers, for stopping the ethic devaluation and to set a bar how media should report ascents.

In the beginning we did get some criticism from experienced climbers who said we did not need any rules as it reduced the "freedom of climbing" etc. Today, with the great but questioned 8A+ flash by Francesca Metcalf, we can see, the opposite, that many in he climbing community wants strict rules. Many have actually put on the black and white sweater, and acting like a referee, blowing in the whistle giving it a red card.

The idea with the traffic light and the "yellow" card is that 8a would like to stay in the middle of these two extremes. It is the climbing community who have created the Ethics and we can only give our best general recommendations but not acting like referees on specific boulders and situations.

 
 
Maria Davies Sandbu does Eckstein, 7C+  Facebook
 

 
 
DYNOING - A ballistic science: Fly, baby fly?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDYNOING - A ballistic science: Fly, baby fly? was the first ever publish 8a article in 2000 written by Jens Larssen and Björn Pohl.

Everyone feels too short when the holds are far away, right? So, what?s the clue? What are you to think, that makes it possible to fly and land those crucial centimeters higher up?

Naturally, every dyno is, to a certain extent, unique in terms of holds, angles, length etc., but there is also at least one aspect in which all dynos are similar; you have to let go... What decides if you are to succeed are your physical shape, technique, but most of all your mind. Here are 14 pieces of advice and training tips from a 166 cm short man, with negative gorilla index and a 193 cm tall guy with positive gorilla index.

 
 
Bolts needed for a new winter destination outside Tunis  Facebook
 

 
 
Donate to Zaghuan to quickly make it a new great winter destination  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureZaghuan, one hour outside Tunis, has the potential to be a new winter destination with 500 routes up to 150 meters. At the moment, only some 50 routes have been put up and here you can donate money to the locals who hope to put up 150 new routes before the next winter.

 
 
Dangerous belay illustration by UKC  (21) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe belay article by UK Climbing is nicely written but the illustration shows a dangerous belay method which should be removed. (c) Ray Eckermann

1. The dynamic belayer will not stop nicely just under the first bolt, as shown in the middle picture, but instead smash into the wall with a potential risk for letting go of the rope and the climber falling to the ground.

2. "The climber could easily fall onto the rope with painful consequences in the groin region!" (Quote from the article.)

3. "The belayer must anticipate the split-second before the rope goes tight and at that moment, lock off the belay device." (The contrary is shown on the picture.)

The 8a article written the year before is actually more informative. The most important advice is that the inexperienced heavy belayers should bend their knees is critical situations in order to create a dynamic fall instead of being scared during the fall and instinctively, sit down during the fall making it super stiff.

 
 
Defining Flash and the Francesca 8A+ questioned flash  Facebook
 

Jamie Emerson has written an interesting article in regards of the claimed flash of Chattanoggan by Francesca Metcalf which could be the first ever female 8A+ flash. However, she had previously done the 7A+ finish of the boulder so many, including Jamie, think she should not get the full credit.

Here is the 8a Ethics and Practice from 2002 suggesting that we give a "yellow card" for Francesca's flash. It is the climbing community who sets the "rules" and there is no way we could agree on exactly where to draw the line in situations like this

8a congratulations Francesca but in regards of climbing history achievements, we will not consider it as the first female 8A+ flash, as we think such ascents demand the highest ethical standard. What do you think? 8a is actually the only website which has credited and reported her flash.

 
 
Petition for Geyikbayiri and Festival 21/2  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureZuleyha Geels, from Climbers Garden reports about the mining exploring permit for Geyik bayiri, the #10 most popular crag in the 8a data base and measured by the last year it is #4, that was given out two months ago.

- A goat herder found copies of the permit above the rock in a plastic bag alongside a can of spray paint, tea and sugar. The men from the company had marked the area. We phoned the ministry of energy and checked the permit number to see if it was true. A lawyer also checked and information about the permit reached the governors office in Antalya a few days later. So they waited more than one month before informing the local authorities who have said that they will NOT give permission to build the road to carry up equipment. It seems the exploring permit was given out to a rather small company. The permit has been handed out above the main wall affecting 15 sectors including Magara and Sarkit. This means around 1/3 of the area, circa 350 routes out of the 1 000 routes in Geyik bayiri.

Open letter asking for signing up a petition for Geyikbayiri

In order to emphasise and share the importance of this area, “Geyik bayiri Climbing and Outdoor Sports Festival” will be held on February 21, 2015, Saturday. We invite you all to join us." Join the Facebook page and share the news.

 
 
8C by Motoshi Nagao  Facebook
 

 
 
Bullet lines in Joe's Valley with cable cams and drones  Facebook
 

 
 
8c FA by Jochen Perschmann in Norway  Facebook
 

 
 
Moon: "On the damage caused to rock by brushing"  Facebook
 

Ben Moon gives his opinion on chalk, pof and brushing that actually damage the holds. The article ends like this.

- Anyway when British climbers saw me climbing on the Peak grit with a “pof” they were rightly up in arms. Having seen the damage that resin had done in Fontainebleau I couldn’t agree more however although there was resin in my “pof” I wasn’t using the resin part of the pof just the tail end to whack the holds. This has a similar effect as brushing but is in my opinion much more effective and does far less damage. The force of air generated by the tail end of the pof has the same effect as wind drying out and cooling the holds and thus improving the friction. Neither of these effects is achieved through brushing.

I am certainly not advocating the use of a resin pof but there might be many benefits in replacing the resin with chalk and the brush with the new chalk pof.

 
 
Verhoeven discusses The Nose and the ethics  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSiked has made an interesting interview with
Jorg Verhoeven, one of the best WC climber the last ten years who won the Lead in 2008 and who did the only fourth ascent of The Nose 8b+ in Yosemite last autumn.

Jorg prepared for the big wall by bouldering and in fact, the famous route where Lynn Hill did the FA in 1993, contains two seven meter 8A boulders. The interview includes interesting and good thoughts on Big wall ethics, "free climbing ethics is a very gray area, one has to be careful not to be too quick to judge... When I was climbing though I didn’t think about this at all. I do think about ethics a lot otherwise."

In 2015, Jorg and his partner Katharina Saurwein will do all Boulder WCs except Munich as they instead plan, to go to Rockland for a month and than back to RMNP for a month followed by two months in Australia. Finally Jorg plans to return to Yosemite to maybe find a new project or a FA.

 
 
Ama Dablam Expedition - TRAILER - 85th Anniversary  Facebook
 

 
 
Kilian Fischhuber does 8C in 2+ minutes  Facebook
 

 
 
Siyinqaba - first days in Swaziland for Nalle Hukkataival and Jimmy Webb  Facebook
 

 
 
Edu Marín makes his way through Panaroma 8c , Ep. 2  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
8B's during the night by Giuliano Cameroni  Facebook
 

Switzerland Bouldering - Night Sessions from Giuliano Cameroni on Vimeo.

 
 
Hueco Rock Rodeo 2015  Facebook
 

1. Maria Sandbu 3800 - Daniel Woods 7170
2. Bella Jariel 1210 - Paul Robinson 6805
3. Courtney Sanders 690 - Toru Nakajima 6685
Complete results

 
 
Melloblocco starts April 30  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePre-registration is now online for Melloblocco 2015, the biggest bouldering and climbing meeting in the world that will be held in Val di Mello – Val Masino, Italy, from 30 April to 3 May 2015.

 
 
Winter in the Peak District  (2) Facebook
 

 
 
Alexandra "Ola" Taistra in Oliana 2014  Facebook
 

Aleksandra 'Ola' Taistra spent a busy winter in Spain, climbing, coaching, and searching for 2015 projects. Despite unfavorable conditions she managed Los Humildes pa Casa 8b+, and her athlete Nina Gmiter clipped the chains on Fish Eye 8c, previously also climbed by Ola.

After a couple of years of focusing on coaching work, Ola says the psych is back and she's got some hard routes in mind for herself. In the short video from Oliana, she talks about her past achievements and future plans.

Aleksandra 'Ola' Taistra | Oliana 2014 from bez3manki on Vimeo.

 
 
Boulder Que Bosque extensăo - Campanha/MG  Facebook
 

 
 
Just Do It by Paige Claassen  Facebook
 

Just Do It - Paige Claassen from Pan Banan on Vimeo.

 
 
Edelrid Topper Station - ISPO Award Winner  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"GOLD WINNER - The new Topper Station top-rope anchor from EDELRID reduces rope wear, avoids tangles, and improves safety thanks to a gate that prevents double clipping and accidental unhinging."

Edelrid did also win with their innovative 6.5 mm Rap Line II which is the first accessory cord with a dynamic safety reserve.

 
 
2015 ABS Nationals - Top 10 Moments  Facebook
 

 
 
ABS 16 Open National Championships • Final Round  Facebook
 

 
 
Magnus Midtbř does Jungle Speed too fast to give it 9a  Facebook
 

Magnus Midtbř has done Jungle Speed in Siurana giving it a personal grade of 8c+. "Had gone through it once on a previous trip. Today, straight from the airport I went through it once again to refresh the beta and did it second try after that. Sent it too fast to justify calling it 9a. Especially since it's not even so much my style. Great route though!"

Also Gabri Moroni thought it was 8c+ and including that several have done it as their first and only 9a, or relatively quickly and some saying it is "soft", 8c+ might be the appropriate grade, using Time Comparison Grading. Here is the original 8a grading theory article from 2002.

 
 
Dutch invasion in Font  Facebook
 

 
 
Adam Ondra onsights 8c and 8c+  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureManabu Yoneyama reports on Facebook with a great picture that Adam Ondra has onsighted Gypsy Blood 8c+ in Santa Linya and here is a nice video when he onsighted El Turron 8c in Siurana some days ago. In total, Adam has onsighted 56 routes between 8c and 9a including his personal gradings.

 
 
8B by Anna Stöhr  Facebook
 

Anna Stöhr, the best female competition boulderer in the history, reports on Facebook that she has done Boogalagga 8B, "After 4 weeks of training in the gym and studying for school it feels great to climb outside in ticino, especially if the sun is shining and the parking lot is empty. today i climbed one of the many classics, 'boogalagga' 8b and i am superpsyched about it!! Such a rad line!

 
 
El Turron 8c onsight by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

 
 
Hukkataival and Webb explore Swaziland  Facebook
 

 
 
Alex Megos having fun in Rocklands  Facebook
 

Monkey Business Inc, Rocklands from Nowhereproductions on Vimeo.

 
 
Monkey Business Inc, Rocklands  Facebook
 

Monkey Business Inc, Rocklands from Nowhereproductions on Vimeo.

 
 
 
9a and inspirational blog by Joe Kinder  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJoe Kinder has done Analogica Natural Left, 9a in Santa Linya which is his favourite crag and he will stay in the area also making more videos until May. Updated blog with nice pictures and even som mental training through his life style approach.

"Falling 5 times at the last move wasn't so cool as I usually avoid routes like that... but hey... good for "training right"? An old line bolted by Dani and Victor that I put an anchor on, added a bolt, and cleaned. Such a better ending as it goes to the top. For me this is the way, but hey.... gotta give respect to the initial line (odd anchor) right? Super stoked... Enmienda next???? YES!!!!!!!!!! (c) Carlos Perez

 
 
8C also by Dave Graham  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham has done the second ascent of Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon, 8C in Red Rocks which Paul thoughts was one of his best and hardest boulders in his life. The name comes from a basket ball player in Harlem Globetrotters and it finishes with a slam dunk move.

Graham: "Meadowlark Lemon 8C was established by Paul Robinson, and its an incredible addition to our world of hard boulders! The rig is super proud; aesthetic, tall, and blank looking, I’m always really impressed when I stand undermeath it. After 6 days of battling with the strange valley conditions, learning the body positions, and gaining the snap necessary to execute the finicly toe hook lurp move, I managed to do it second try today."Alex Kahn has taken the picture of Pauls FA.

 
 
The Game, 8C by Jon Cardwell  (1) Facebook
 

Jon Cardwell has done his first 8C and the third ascent of Daniel Woods' The Game in Boulder Canyon. His first 8B+ was Dreamtime which he did 2007 being 18 years old and that year he also did his first 8c+.

Last autumn, Jon also showed being in his best endurance shape in his life doing two 9a's in Red River Gorge and onsights up to 8b+ and he is #4 in the 8a route game. Video on the Island

 
 
8A (7C+) by Margo Hayes (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes has done Flower Power, 8A (7C+) in Hueco Tanks which was her third of the grade. The 14 year old is also a very tallented route climber having done an 8b last summer.

The picture is from her send of Sunshine, 8A in Hueco Tanks which she did two months ago. Margo is since four years part of the Robyn Erbesfield ABC Kids program.

 
 
Two 8b+ OS by Stefano Ghisolfi (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi had a nice day in Montsant where he onsighted two 8b+, L-Mens and Falconetti. Two days previously, he onsighted his first 8b, Photo-Shoot in Margalef. The 19 year old Italian is a succesful competition climber who was #3 in the World Cup in China last year.

 
 
7C+ flash and 8A by Megan Mascarenas (15)  Facebook
 

Megan Mascarenas has flashed Scare Tactics, 7C+ in Red Rocks. The 15 year old who started climbing 12 years ago has also done her fourth 8A by Show of Hands in Moe's Valley.

 
 
8B flash by Alexander Megos (19)  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero (11) reports that as he was working Blood Meridian, 8B in Bishop Alexander Megos showed up and flashed it. Last month, he flashed Pure Imagination, 8c+ in Red River Gorge where he also did another five 8c+ and onsighted three 8b+.

The German finished school this year and has been on a road trip in USA since the North Face Kalymnos festival where he was #1 in the money competition. In 2009 and 2010, Alexander won eight straight Euro Cups and this year he plans to do so World Cups. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

 
 
Jungle Speed, 9a by Gabriele Moroni  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabriele Moroni has done Jungle Speed, 9a in Siurana which is his sixth of the grade since Action Directe in 2010. Previously, Gabri was a succesful competition boulderer and in 2009 he was #3 overall in the WC.

I dunno what to think... ok its my style but I repeated it the day after for the video with a bad hungover... nueve a soave o ocho c mas/nueve

 
 
Three 7c+ OS by Tito Traversa (11)  Facebook
 

Tito Claudia Traversa has onsighted three 7c+ and three 7c in Margalef. The eleven year old was ten when he did his first 8b+.

 
 
9a's in Santa Linya by Midtbö and Schubert (3)  Facebook
 

Magnus Midtbö finished 2012 by doing the FA of Analogia Natural left extension, 9a in Santa Linya. More info in his blog (c) Carlos Pérez/CPFotografia.com

Jakob Schubert repeated it as well as did Fuck the system, 9a. "3rd Go this trip. two 9a's in a day, great start of the year!!

Today, the Lead World Champion who was #3 in both the Lead and the Boulder WC, did his fifth 9a during ten days in Santa Linya, Direct open your mind.

 
 
The Island, 8B+ by Jan Hojer  (15) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Hojer finished of a very succesful 2012 by doing Dave Graham's The Island, 8B+ in Fontainebleau. Now he is working the lower Big start adding one grade. The next week he will start training for the World Cup where his ambition is around #5 overall.

How much and how do you train?
I'm often alternating weeks with many sessions (4-5) and less intensive weeks with only 2 sessions, depending on how i feel. A session rarely takes longer than two hours...

I agree what Tyler Landman says about training, "
"My tip for getting stronger is to climb steep, straight angles, 30-45 degrees; big moves between bad holds, where you must keep your feet on. This develops footwork and body tension. No heel hooks, toe hooks or anything like that, just basic straightforward pulling".


Sometimes he also does five seconds front lever in his pinkies!

 
 
9a FA by Jakob Schubert  Facebook
 

Jakob Schubert has done one more 9a, Seleccio Natural in Santa Linya. "FA of the new little extension which gives this nice line the obvious end. Solid 9a like this I think."

The best competition climber in the world 2012, has also done Bumaye, 8c+. "Best route that I have done in Margalef! 3rd Go this year (4th in total).

 
 
Estato critico, 9a by Reffo and Jung  Facebook
 

Ramon Julian Puigblanque put up Estato critico in Siurana in 2004 and it a high quality route that has become one of the most repeated 9a's in the world. The last two days it was done by Silvio Reffo and Markus Jung and for both guys it was the second of the magic grade.

 
 
Twelve 7C+ and harder by Mirko Caballero (11)  (4) Facebook
 

Mirko Caballero is about to take kids bouldering to a new level by sending four 8A's and eigth 7C+ during a week in Bishop. The last year, the eleven year old has also done four 8b+ and he is #5 in the Junior ranking game.

 
 
8B+ FA by Woods repeated by Webb  (1) Facebook
 

Daniel Woods has made the FA of Aggravated Assault, 8B+ in Griffin Falls which later Jimmy Webb repeated. Both say it is a remarkable problem.

Woods: "Amazing roof. Thanks to Jimmy for showing me this line and getting me amped. Tyler, Less, and Jimmy cleaned and tried this line. Jimmy sent me photos and got me psyched to come check it out. Very powerful movement on weird, flat, not so positive edges going out a 50 degree roof. Violent moves to the fullest.

 
 
Agartha, 8B+ by Toshi Takeuchi  Facebook
 

Toshi Takeuchi has done his third 8B+ by repeating Dai Koyamada's Agartha in Toyota. Next year, he wants to try the sit start making it 8C. Here is the Koyamada Agartha video.

 
 
The Dagger, 8B+ by Jernej Kruder  (8) Facebook
 

Jernej Kruder has done The Dagger, 8B+ in Cresciano. "First real 8b+...second go on this trip...hope the weather will be fine, cuz sit start is already done in 3 parts". He is talking about the famous Story of Two Worlds. The Slovenian is also a successful competition climbers who twice has been #4 in a Boulder WC.

 
 
7C+ OS and much more by Mirko Caballero (11)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero had a truly amazing winter day in Bishop yesterday where he did five 7C and harder including an onsight of Action Jackson, 7C+. Today he did Swordfish Trombone, 8A see picture. In the junior combined ranking game the eleven year old is #5.

It has been haqrd winter conditions since they areived on Saturday, "Bishop 2am. Tent is up. Long snowy drive. 3 miles before Bishop we hit a low of 9 F (13-). Pretty relieved when we got a "balmy" 14 F (10-) at camp...

 
 
Ciudad de Dios (9a) by Jakob Schubert  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Shubert, who is listed as #2 on the preliminary "8a Climber of the year" list, has done Edu Marin's Ciudad de Dios, 9a, in Santa Linya.

The Austrian has had yet another successful year in the competition scene being overall #3 in both the Lead and Boulder World Cups. He also won the Lead World Championships and his now spending time on the rocks. (c) ©Elias Holzknecht

 
 
8C by Toru Nakajima (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToru Nakajima has done the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's Tokoyo, 8C at Kasagi. Already four years ago, being 15 years old he did his first 8B+ and he has also already performed world class at the gritstone trad as well as 9a sport. Here is a 15 min video from bouldering around Colorado earlier this year.

 
 
First 8B+ by Micha Vanhoudt  (1) Facebook
 

Micha Vanhoudt has opend Barry White, 8B+ in NÖ in Austria. "Suggested grade of 8B+, 'cause it felt a lot harder than anything I've tried or climbed before. Future will tell. Took me ages to do it... Amazing problem!" Michavanhoudt.com

 
 
8a OS by Eva Lopez (41)  Facebook
 

Eva Lopez has onsighted La Franja de Gaza, 8a in Cuenca. The 41 year old is a well known coach for several succesful spanish climber and also the inventor of the hang-boards; Trangression and Progression.

 
 
8b Argyro Papathanasiou  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureArgyro Papathanasiou finished a nice career in Taekwando some three years ago. After two years of focusing on climbing she did 8a and now after another ten months with some ten routes 8a and and 8a+ she has done her first 8b, El Figot in Siurana.

"I almost did it in my third try too but then a big hole in my fingertip made me climb for 4-5 days with tape which was impossible. On my last day in Siurana I decided I will give only one try with no tape a muerte...and I did it...just enough skin before it opened again!

 
 
8B flash by Jimmy Webb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has made a very impressive flash of the well confirmed 8B, Roses and blue jays in Great Barrington. "The most spectacular boulder. Freak good conditions today and I was able to climb the boulder perfectly making not a single mistake. A dream come true."

Jimmy is #4 in the ranking game but based on his continous progress during the last six years, he is a contendor for stepping up as a contendor of the best boulderer in the world 2013. The picture is from an 8a interview in 2010.

 
 
Ben Spannuth - Two Tiny Routes  Facebook
 

 
 
Spanish hard bouldering sends around Madrid  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReally nice friction for bouldering around Madrid during the last few days which brings quite a few sends on big numbers for different Spaniards:
Now that Klem Loskot is back again on the media it seems like people got attracted by one of his creations back in the days, El Monstruo de las Regletas, 8B (video) in El Escorial. Alfonso Arce, sent it last Thursday and Javier Meng and Ignasi Tarrazona did it yesterday.

Quite incredible what Alfonso (pic by Iván Luengo) is doing cause since we reported in the spanish site about his first 8B some 20 days ago, he's fired-off another three problems of such difficulty level (being the last the one we write about above).

Yesterday also and in the same area, Alberto Rocasolano was able to top out Triceratos sit, 8B.

A special mention is deserved by Nacho Sánchez who blogs about his last FA to Zarzafar for which he proposes 8B+. "Some years ago Iván Luengo showed me a project in Zarzalejo with long and physical moves on the start and an "odd" end. This one has been the first important objective for this season. After quite a few sessions and several attempts falling from the mantle, yesterday I was able to top it out."

 
 
Another 9a (+) FA by Klem Loskot (38)  (28) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKlem Loskot has done the FA of Rehabilitation, 9a (+) at Balcony in Plombergstein where he just some three weeks ago did the FA of The Balcony project, 9a (+). The name Rehabilitation comes from that the original 8c line from 1991 was partly made up by artificial holds that have been taken down.

"In 1991 it was different with artificial holds. In south of Europe it was just normal, even on top routes. There are so many artificial holds on the hardest routes from the 90'ies, even Action Directe, Hubble and La rose etc.

I feel very bad for that period and it's a shame and especially for the balcony which is soo unique. I could at least for my self "repair" and rehabilitate my self. I have to get
the holds out of one more artificial line and make the rock look as "beauty" as possible. This one will not go free natural.

 
 
BIG WORM - Dave Wetmore  (2) Facebook
 

 
 
8A+ by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  Facebook
 

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has had some great few days in Joe's Valley, having done three 8A's and yesterday she did Dark Matters, 8A+ in Huntington Canyon. "Beautiful beautiful sandstone wall. Really nice moves too.

 
 
8c by Ruben Firnenburg (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRuben Firnenburg who won the Euro Youth Cup in Slovenia the last weekend, as well as overall, has spent the last week in Misja Pec where he did Strelovod, 8c. Also Jakob Heber Norum (16) has done the 8c.

Ruben: "The Conditions were pretty bad and it was rainy and about 5 °C . It became a little fight so we were really glad sending the nice line after that week and it was good fun! Especially for Jakob the Route was a new success as his first 8c!" (c) Martin Pötter

 
 
9a by Akito Matsushima  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAkito Matsushima has done Open up your mind direct, 9a in Santa Linya. "It took four days about ten tries to make it......so nice condition nice weather." The Japanese has previously done two 9a, Kinematix and Fuck the system.

In the last ten Lead World Cups, his worst result was #16. In the Boulder WC 2007, Akito was #4.

 
 
8c+ (9a) by Jonathan Siegrist  Facebook
 

Jonathan Siegrist reports that he has done the first repeat of Daniel Woods' Mission Impossible in Clear Creek Canyon. "
So I suppose it's 14c (8c+)? or wicked hard burly Colorado 14b (8c)? Whatever, who really cares? It's a cool route, and a great addition to the front range on Jay and Daniel's part. Nice work fellas!

 
 
First 9a by Yamada Wataru  Facebook
 

Yamada Wataru has done his first or second 9a, Fabela pa la Enmienda in Santa Linya. "The grand sum of this three months trip in Europe!" Earlier this year the 162 cm Japanese did a Yuji Hirayama 9a giving it a personal grade of 8c+.

 
 
Nalle Hukkataival does a Graham 8C  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNalle Hukkataival blogs about having repeated Dave Graham's, 8C From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico. The crux is the mantle where he ended up using his forehead to help push through.

There is also a left variant which Nalle thinks is easier, althoug it has the same 8C grade. "While the left variant is the easiest way up, and thus maybe more logical, Dave’s original problem takes the straightest line up and finishes with one of the coolest and most complicated mantles I’ve ever done!

 
 
8c+ by Hannah Midtbř  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHannah Midtbř has done her first 8c+, La Novena Puerta in Santa Linya. Last winter she did three 8c's in the possibly greatest cave in the world.

"Last season when I first tried this route I just remember getting so spanked, every individual move felt so hard... Very cool to feel progression and see how the body adapts after working it... and then actually sending it, feels so good:) amazing route, one of the best in Santa Linya. A real joy to climb." (c) Henning Wang

In the last Lead WC, her brother Magnus was #3. Hannah has almost stopped but this year she was #16 in the Boulder World Championship. Four years ago, when she was 18 she was 3 in the European Championship.

 
 
La Rambla, 9a+, by Sachi Amma  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Lead World Cup 2012 winner, Sachi Amma has climbed La Rambla, 9a+, in Siurana which took him seven tries over five days. The last two years, when he was #3 and #5 in the Lead WC, he finished the season in a similar fashion by sending 9a+ routes Papichulo and Pachamama, the latter being the only repeat of this extremely hard Chris Sharma line. Sachi's next objective is to try another Siurana testpiece: Golpe de Estado (9b).

 
 
9a FA again by Christian Bindhammer (36)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristian Bindhammer, who has been a Lead World Cup finalist some 30 times, has made yet another 9a FA, Iron Dome, 9a in Allgäu. He did his first by Action in 2003 and since than he has done one 9a more or less every year.

Because of the very sharp and edgy style including one mono you can't do more than 3 tries a day and it's horrible if it's to warm. So to find the right conditions there is a challenge and then you'll need to do it fast ;-)"

Yesterday he started a new harder project at the crag that he hopes to do next spring. More pics by Maxi Klaus on FB

 
 
8a+ OS by Martina Cufar Potard  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMartina Cufar Potard has onsighted Les fabulosos cadilacs, 8a+ in Piedra Parada which means she has been in Argentina for the Petzl Roc Trip. In 2001, Martina was the Lead World Champion and since than Slovenia, with 2 million inhabitants, has been one of the most successfull competition nations in the world. (c) Said Belhaj

 
 
8c by Conny Matthes  Facebook
 

Conny Matthes has done her second 8c, Intercooler in Frankenjura where she also has done six 8A's this year.

 
 
Three 8A's by Katha Saurwein  Facebook
 

Katha Saurwein has added another three 8A's to here log-book making it twelve 8A's and harder including three 8A+ the last year. In 2008, she won one Boulder World Cup.

 
 
8A by Margo Hayes (14)  (3) Facebook
 

Margo Hayes has done her first 8A, Sunshine in Hueco Tanks which was first suggested as an 8B. She did her first 7C+ at the age of 12 years old, and last year she flashed another one. Margo has also done 8b being tied in.

 
 
First 9a by Shoda Shinichi  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShoda Shinichi has done his first 9a, Era Vella in Margalef which is the most repeated 9a in the world during the last two years.
"I started attempting "Era Bella" last November. I tried it for five days but I could not make it to the top. This year, I finally sent it after 20 days of projecting including also the rest days. This route was the most full pump fest and the most beautiful route in my life. Thank you Sharma!"

 
 
Nalle's 8C gets 8B+ by Jan Hojer again  (72) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Hojer has once again made a quick repeat of a Nalle Hukkataival 8C in Val Bavona, Off The Wgon giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "I didn't even dare dreaming of that boulder when I saw dosage for the first time. The FA of that classic is the well deserved reward for all the work, Nalle invested into brushing nearly everything in this valley.

Took me about 20 tries over two sessions. Anybody who tried "Off the Wagon" knows how irrelevant the grade is for such a cool line... It's a hard boulder and even harder for short People!"


It should be mentioned that it is very important to respect the access issues and park outside the village and do not walk in big groups etc.

 
 
Markus Eder repeats Loskot's 9a (+)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKlem Loskot gives us the story of his first, and the second ascent, from Markus Eder of The Balcony project, 9a (+).

"It is a fantastic line and it has been in my brain since I bolted it 18 years ago. It is bouldery, absolutely not my style, so fingery. I am heavy and it is not possible to put much weight on feet. Three weeks ago I started to work it together with Markus Eder. It is nice to not work alone and we found a new solution and two session later I did it and some days ago also Markus did it."

What is your plan for the future?
Keep on pulling hard and evolving my style of "flying and dancing weightless" on the rock and of course climb some
more hard stuff. I opened a lot of hard boulders the last two years which I want icons of bouldering to try, like Forever Pretty, 8B+ I put up three weeks ago. I feel still not on zenith which I want to find...

I forgot in the mail yesterday that I want to pay tribute, say that Zunami (8C) by the Schwaiger brothers in 2003 is very cool. Also, it's a pure line, for limestone here at home not so easy to find. It's how you think of a hard boulder, check the picture!

 
 
8A+ and more by Alex Puccio  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio is about to brake some kind of record having done seven 8A's and harder including todays Conquistadors, 8A+ in Chironico. "Really really AMAZING boulder!!! I found it really hard being short. Did it on my third day on it, but fell off the top the first and second day. Max reach! :) Did another amazing boulder today as well. Good day."

In total Alex has done 47 boulders 8A and harder which probably puts her at top also in that field. She has two more weeks left before going back to UK and she just might trying some 8B's. Next year, she plans to do the Boulder WC again. The last two years she was 5 and #3 overall. In 2009 she won the only event she participated in.

 
 
Third 8b+ by Mirko Caballero (11)  (5) Facebook
 

Mirko Caballero has done his third 8b+, Chemical Ali in Smith Rocks for which the weekend warrior family had to drive nine hours. "Yes!! So psyched GREAT route!! Amazing movement and test of technique!!! One of my favorite routes!". Two weekends ago they flew five hours and drove two hours to Red River where he onsighted his first two 8a's.

"My Dad is cool, he's always willing to go somewhere to climb :) But only when I'm not in school... :( haha" In the junior ranking game, the eleven year old is #15 although he has eight more years in this category.

 
 
Klem Loskot (38) is back with an 8C and 9a?  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKlem Loskot is one of the great pioneers having opend hard core boulders around the world for more than 15 years. At 38 he is back having repeated the Schwaiger brothers Zunami, 8C, in the Saalachtal.

Climax also reports that Klem also has finished the Balcony project which he bolted 18 years ago.

 
 
Fantastic 8C and 8B+ FA's in Valle Bavona  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has made the FA of Heritage, 8B+ in Valle Bavona. "You've had dreams about this problem without ever seeing it. It's that good. Might be the single best line that I've ever climbed." (c)Connor Griffith

In the same valley, Nalle Hukkataival opened Momentum, 8C.
"One project down, many more to do! With the great conditions today here in Ticino, I managed to send a phenomenal project that I've been working on for the past couple weeks! This boulder is a dream come true for me and one of my biggest achievements.

 
 
9a by Larcher and 8c (+) by Le Nevé  (24) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJacopo Larcher wrote in his blog that after a rest day he was confident that Melissa Le Nevé would do Southern Smoke, 8c (+) and that he would do it with the Direct start, 9a... and so they did.

Jacopo came to Red River Gorge with a personal best of 8c redpoint and 8a+ onsight. During the last ten days he has done six personal bests. Melissa came to RRG with 8b+ as a personal best and now she has done two 8c (+).

Pic: Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

 
 
8C FA by Dai Koyamada again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada reports that he has done the FA of Insanity of Grandeur, 8C in Chironico which adds an 8B sit start to Delusion of Gradeur, 8A+ (B). A month ago, Dai did the same sit start but went right making the first repeat of Martin Keller's Der mit dem Fels tanzt, 8C. (c) Ikuko Serata

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