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Boulder grades are becoming less impressive 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn 2009, we published an article discussing the boulder grade inflation by showing a grade discrepancy diagram that later Nalle Hullataival used for a blog confirming the 8a thoughts.

The blue lines tries to compare the grade discrepancy between routes and boulders in 2009, i.e. a 7A was equally hard as an 7b+ route at the same time as an 8A was equal to 8b.

Today with a community, especially the newcomers, more focusing on bouldering, it seems the discrepancy of the grades are much smaller for all grades but the 8C. Many male youngsters actually think it is almost as hard to do a 7A boulder as a long pumpy 7a route. To do an 8A boulder is super hard but it is not as impressive as to do an 8b route, any longer.

The diagram also suggest that the top boulderers actually should start to use the 8C+ grade. The reason why there seem to be a grade deflation on the top level is probably that the best guys do not need the grade to prove themselves any longer as it might have been the case earlier. Facebook

 
 
Edu Marin recovers in his 8a t-shirt :) 
 

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Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: Rocklands Part Three 
 

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Edelrid Vario adjustable Via Ferrata between 30 - 80 kg 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureWith all the kids coming into the sport, Edelrid has created the first Via Ferrata where you can adjust the weight, 30 - 80 kg. Cable Vario won the overall gold award at Friedrichshafen in 2012. It works like a ski binding and you can adjust it easily.

It should be noted that every fall is dangerous in Via Ferrata as they are normally much harder than using a rope even with the Cable Vario which also has the One Touch Patented carabiner for easy and safe handling. More info Facebook

 
 
Niccolo Ceria bouldering in Macedonia 
 

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Best of IFSC bouldering 2013 
 

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Norway ice climbing also during night by Mammut 
 

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World Cup before the last event in Kranj  (6)
 

1. Sachi Amma 507 - Jain Kim 625
2. Jakob Schubert 443 - Mina Markovic 595
3. Ramon J Puigblanque 398 - Momoka Oda 403

If Mina wins the last event, Jain will still win overall if she is #2 in Kranj. Counting their six best result out of seven, their worst result is #2.

Sachi will win if he is #12 or better in Kranj even if Jakob wins. During the last 23 events, the worst result for Sachi is #10.

Less than a dozen male and female have done six out of the seven events. Facebook

 
 
Climbers have a more developed brain 
 

Here is a research that come to the conclusion that pro-longed rock climbing activity develops the brain.

" In comparison to controls, world-class rock climbers showed significantly larger vermian lobules I-V volumes, with no significant difference in other cerebellar vermian lobules or hemispheres.

The enlargement of the vermian lobules I-V seems to be related to highly dexterous hand movements and to eye-hand coordination in the detection of and correction of visuomotor errors. Facebook

 
 
Windmill/Forearm swings and blood circulation update 
 

I have received a lot of positive feedback and questions for the Windmill/Forearm pendulum article which described why it can be nice to fill up your forearms with fresh blood using G-power. First of all, it is good enough to do just 180 degrees swings and the aim is to feel the blood pressure in your fingertips.

Do some light finger and arm exercises in order to warm up the muscles. Then you can start swinging for 10 seconds but if you do not feel the sensation in your fingers you have to warm up more or you are one of the few that does not feel it.

Prior to a climb you just need to do it a couple of times with 10 seconds rest in between. Trying to speed up the recovery process, you can do it several times during the second phase of your resting period. If it is for more general capillary bed filling up exercises to also increase blood circulation for injuries you can do them repeatedly several times a day. It is a learning process to understand how much, and how, you can do it in the different situations to maximize the blood circulation and capillary bed in your forearms.

Feel free to ask more questions and remember there is no research that backs up this idea but it sure feels like it works and both doctors, climbers and trainers have said they like it. Facebook

 
 
8c+ by Piotr Bunsch 
 

Piotr Bunsch climbing Nin Gal (8c+) in Chulilla, Spain from Pablo Benedito on Vimeo.

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New topo for Bafa Lake bouldering 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureZorbey Aktuyun one of the major contributors to the bouldering in Bafa Lake has made a new topo describing 270 boulders and 550 problems on 208 pages written in both Turkish and English. Transportation, shopping, accommodation and more informations are in the guide.

Bafalakebouldering.com Facebook

 
 
Stefano Carnati 
 

STEFANO CARNATI_THE WINNER IS from RAGNI DI LECCO on Vimeo.

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Data base Ascents 
 

Now you can add all the climbs on a crag through, "DB Ascents" in your scorecard/log-book even if you have not done them in order to make the data base complete. The "DB Ascents" will only be visible in the general data base and soon you will be able to list them left-to-right in our new topo system. Facebook

 
 
The Angie 8b story just gets more amazing 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson who had a personal best of 6c+ in 2012 and before her trip to RRG, it was 7c. Now, being 9 years old, she has done Swingline becoming the youngest ever to have done an 8b.

The amazing thing is that her parents do not climb at all and that she does not have a coach. "Usually she will train herself about 1 hour, three days a week and then just climbs outdoors usually every weekend for a couple of hours", says her mother Claudia who also helped us out with the interview below.

"She is extremely self-motivated and she has to work every climb from the ground up. She never top ropes anything and completely works out her own beta and mostly picks what she wants to climb."

Since u do all ur own training, what would u do differently to prepare for climbing at RRG?
I knew I had to have a lot of endurance so I just picked a climb and did laps on it but now I know that is not enough. I should have picked a long route of moderate grade and climbed it slowly over and over again until I got so pumped that I didn't think I could climb any more and then jump on a harder climb and send it.

What do u like doing when ur not climbing?
I love playing basketball with my best friend Josie and just really acting silly :)

What r ur barriers when u climb?
Well most people think that it would be my height but most of the time if u look hard enough u can always find something to use. It may be tiny but if it is there it is possible. It's just weather ur strong enough to use it, that's what u have to work on :) Facebook

 
 
Running can be counterproductive  (27)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAs running means that an increased proportion of your around 5 litres of blood circulates in your leg, it can be counterproductive both for warming up your forearms and for it's recovery. Clearly running is good for your heart in order to fight big overhangs but then it should be done in short intervals. Long distance running will just build up your capillary bed in your legs learning your blood circulation to redirect it from your forearms. The worst warming up is done, running or cycling, to your gym getting cold finger tips as you instead of opening up your capillaries, you close them learning your blood to avoid the forearms.

Here are some more detailed thoughts and explinations from Dr 8a, Björn Alber, MSc Training physiology and one of the best kayaker in the world during the 80'ies.

All gyms and top climbers should have a kranking machine or a rower. This would make most us get better endurance. Facebook

 
 
Honnold and Wright- The Sufferfest 
 

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Add climbs via your mobile  (1)
 

Several climbers have asked us to create a simple mode for adding routes more quickly also using your mobile. Just click "Add mobile" and you will save a lot of time and possible money for adding your ascents directly by the crag. Facebook

 
 
Pedro Navas climbing 'Yerba Mala', 8c in El Montgó 
 

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Lost in North America: Ep. 6 - Viva Las Climbing in Red Rocks 
 

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Alpen en Bloc incl Magic Woods 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFlorian Wenter and Lorenz Delago have updates their topo for Magic Woods which also includes 12 other areas in the Alps. It includes 450 but not everything is translated to english. Almost all boulders are presented with a picture and there is not so many variations listed.

"Variants I have not considered sometimes because otherwise it will quickly become confusing and beautiful lines are decomposed. The boulder should be, if possible, logical lines. But it does not mean that variants are bad, everyone should climb like and what makes fun.

How big proportion of the 8A's and harder have you down graded in the new topo? In some few cases it seems like the 8a community actually think the grade is lower compared to what you have suggested.
The difficult boulder which were repeated several times and now are considered generally to be easier, were downgraded. Where it is not certain, the old rating have been left. I rather go treat carefully with downgrading ... is often a bit of a touchy subject ... so I rather let the orginal rating ..."

Buy it here for 35 Euro Facebook

 
 
Valence WC with Ondra and Kim 
 

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Edu Marín climbing with his dad 
 

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Nice video from Javier Meng 
 

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Paige Claassen 8C Slab - Italy  (4)
 

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Keep the hand away from the GriGri  (35)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEvery year, climbers get injured as a too short rope goes out of the GriGri. A knot is of course the best thing but as it is easily forgotten, you should also always keep your arm as low as possible down by your tigh. This will give you an alarm that the rope is at it's end and serious accidents can be avoided. Facebook

 
 
Boulders de Campanha 
 

Boulders da Campanha - MG from Pataca on Vimeo.

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RAW - 50 minutes of bouldering in the alps - The Full Movie 
 

RAW - 50 minutes of bouldering in the alps from bloc beast films on Vimeo.

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Västervik Bouldering 
 

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New All Time High - Unique Visitors & New Members 
 

Last week, we saw a record number of unique visitors with 35 874 at the global page and 40 500 including all country specific pages. Also for new members, we saw a new record with 172 new accounts being created. In total, 51 000 members have recorded 2.8 million ascents that will help you to find the best climbs around the globe. The countries that are growing the fastest when it comes to traffic are Italy, Spain, USA and Germany. Facebook

 
 
Daniel Woods comments his hardest 8C, out of 19 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has done The Ice Knife sitstart which he thinks is his hardest 8C out of 19. The first one he did five years ago, when he was 18 years old and since than, he has most of the time been the 8a ranking game leader.

"The epic is finally over! 13 days of battling with conditions and falling off of every move (including the final v2 move), implanted doubt in my mind if this thing was going to go down this year. Dave put up the stand 2 years ago and it has settled at hard 8B+. The sit adds in a powerful and awkward 4 move 8A+ into the 8B+ with no rest.

The style of this boulder is different than anything I have climbed on. The holds require good friction and the movement is off balance and weird. It is such a beautiful boulder and now the full line is complete! This is my hardest boulder that I have done within my style of climbing. Numbers are so subjective, so for someone else, this could not be so hard. I know it is my personal best and will leave it at that."
Great video of the stand. (c) Beau Kahler

Having discussed the 8C+ grade with Daniel several times it is like he thinks the grade itself is not so important and furthermore, there is the old story with the grade inflation. Top guys like Daniel, has already established themselves so there is no need to further appoint that. Already now, some of his boulders have already been subject to get into the 8C+ territory and sure we must be, at least, very close now. Well done keep'em coming. Facebook

 
 
Can windmill arm rotation improve endurance and injuries?  (16)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt is a well known fact that you will get better endurance through an increased forearm capillary bed, which will improve the potential blood circulation. The capillary bed grows by creating as much forearm blood circulation as possible without getting even a mild pump.

In theory, rotating your arms like a windmill, using G-power to maximally fill up your capillary bed could, possibly, also have a positive impact on your blood circulation and endurance. Windmill arm rotation might work with the same concept that it is much easier to blow up a balloon the second time. Here are 4 potential positive situations that can be discussed and further tested as it is simply just an idea.

1. Just before you start to climb, windmill moves might stretch your capillary balloon so it is prepared for maximal blood circulation.

2. Windmill moves in the second part of your recovery period in between your climbs, might cut some minutes from your resting period.

3. During longer climbing breaks when your capillary bed shrinks, windmill moves might keep it more continuous. It should be noted that you need to be warmed up in order to be able to fill up blood in your forearms.

4. Injuries are healed by blood circulation and windmill rotation can increase it speeding up the recovery.

Once more, this is simply an idea that practically might not have an impact. Nevertheless, I have talked to doctors, famous trainers and climbers that find the ideas interesting. Please try it out and share your feedback. Facebook

 
 
Swedes in Albarracin 
 

Bouldering in Albarracin 2013 from Axel Hultqvist on Vimeo.

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Hukkataival in Grampians #2 
 

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Cold fingers - Put a heated stone in your chalk bag 
 

Gabriele Moroni gives a practical tip in his last blog that could help warming up the fingers during the winter. Gabri used it successfully to do The Elder Statesman 9a.

"It was pretty cold and windy so to avoid numb fingers during the climb I heated a little stone with a camping stove and put it in my chalk bag. Facebook

 
 
Jose Luis Palao 'Primo' climbing 'Palestina', 9a in Cuenca 
 

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Salento Climbing Festival 
 

SALENTO from RAGNI DI LECCO on Vimeo.

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Urko Carmona. Live your Dreams.  (4)
 

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TNF Cinder 40 
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"It is unbreakable" is the first thing James Pearson said describing TNF Cinder 40 which he and his team have been part of develloping. They have tested it for one year doing expeditions around the globe and hauling it up on big walls and "still it almost looks as new.

The basic ideas were that it should stand stand on it own for easy loading and that the opening shoulöd be as wide as possible they made it with a role-top closure. It has a removable hipbelt with a metal hardware which will not break like plastic when you stand on it. The rope can be stowable at the top.

Just luckily you can squeeze it down into the Ryan Air luggage regulation box, As the volume is 40 litres, this just might be another unique feature that will guarantee big sales also from the sport climber. It weighs 1.5 kilos so you probably never will need to check and pay costly for any luggage if you can make your partner take eiter the rope or the gear. Of course this means you do not need to be standing in the queue, just go to the gate 30 min before boarding. Video presentation Facebook

 
 
RAW - 50 minutes of bouldering in the alps 
 

RAW - 50 minutes of bouldering in the alps from bloc beast films on Vimeo.

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Jain Kim wins in Valance in a great show  (11)
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Jain Kim KOR 47
2. Mina Markovic SLO 45+
3. Momoka Oda JPN 44, 4. Dinara Fakhritdinova 41, 5. Anak Verhoeven 36
Complete results

Also the female final was a nice show with a challenging route and once again it was a battle between Jain and Mina. Counting six out of seven events, the worst result for both of them are #2. Facebook

 
 
Adam Ondra superior in Valence Lead WC  (43)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn his first World Cup for over two years, Adam Ondra, the best rock climber in the world, took an amazing victory in his normal style not hesitating and just climbing very fast as always. Four guys had identical result so in case of equal result also in the final, time would have count but where the other struggled, the phenomenal 20 year old just kept going with ease. The good news for the circuit is that Adam will do the next WC in Kranj as well as all events in 2014.

Also Sean McColl was climbing much faster than the others and he must have been very satiesfied #2 as he reported on Facebook before the final, "Food poisoning - we meet again...Ate something bad yesterday afternoon, spend the whole night expunging stuff from my body... not fun. Video from the final - Ondra climb 41.00.

1. Adam Ondra CZE 39+
2. Sean McColl CAN 34+
3. Gauthier Supper FRA 33+, 4. Romain Desgranges 30, 5. Jakob Schubert 30
Complete results Facebook

 
 
Valence World Cup with Adam Ondra  (10)
 

Watch the Valence Lead World Cup Live where Adam Ondra makes a very interesting comback.
In the qualifications, 12 male including Adam Ondra flashed both routes. Among the female we saw three double flashes which is a new strong trend in the Lead World Cup. The dilemma with equal results is of course that if we also see it in the semifinal, the finalists know that they have to climb as fast as possible in the final as time is the tie-breaker for equal results.
Saturday: 12.30 Semifinal & 20.00 Male and Female Facebook

 
 
Pyssel in Västervik 
 

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Megos FA Wheelchair 9a+  (1)
 

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The Beautiful North - Norway 
 

Teaser Bouldering Norway - The Beautiful North from Vertical-Axis on Vimeo.

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Costa Rica Climbing 
 

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Daniel Woods portrait 
 

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Removable bolt - Quicker ground up bolting 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbtech has developed a removeable bolt, basically a Friend that goes in some 4 cm deep into a bolt hole, which make it quicker and easier to bolt from the ground. The bolter can use them to further position themselves in steep roof sections of routes to continue upwards in a ground-up fashion. Once you have put in a normal bolt you can take out the removable bolt and proceed to the next placement."

The price is USD 60 and it needs a 1/2 bit which is 12.7 mm but also a 13 mm Euro bit is OK.

The most common way to bolt ground up is to use 6 or 8 mm bolts in between placements so the removable bolt will save leaving unused hardware in the rock and some money. Check Video 1 and Video 2

Overall, the steeper and bigger overhang you are going to bolt, even going from above, and especially for granite, the greater the removable bolt it. Give some removables to Adam Ondra when he is going for an even bigger Flatanger cave and he will give you the 9c+ smile, just like Chris Sharma has already done. Facebook

 
 
 
8b+ by Marieta Cartró Iriarte 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMarieta Cartró Iriarte has done her first 8b+, China Crisis, in Oliana. By checking her trend diagram, we should not be surprised if she will continue to progress, eventually reaching 8c in 2012. Facebook

 
 
8B's by Anthony Gullsten (19) again 
 

Anthony Gullsten did two more 8B's in Fontainebleau today, Ubik assis and L'Apparemment en départ bas. During the last 2.5 weeks he has done seven 8B´s and seven 8A+. Chatting with him asking for thoughts how come he has stepped up so lately?

"I don't know. I got lucky. It feels good to climb at the moment." Anyhow, finally he says, "Tomorrow I want to try something harder; Gecko, Kheops or Island (8B+), that's at least the ones that I am psyched on." Facebook

 
 
Ondra delivers also in Fontainebleau  (8)
 

Straight after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where, in the first two days, he flashed La Merveille, 8A (+) and Fata Morgana, 8A+ (B) for which personal grades were suggested. Furthermore, he has made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B. Facebook

 
 
8c+ by Alizee Dufraisse  (3)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKairn reports that Alizee Dufraisse has done her first 8c+, Patinoso in Siurana which is a 40m long. She has previously done two 8c's in Céüse. Interview from 2009 with the former pole vaulter with 4.35 as personal best. Facebook

 
 
Nalle flashes 8B 
 

27crags.com reports that Nalle Hukkataival has flashed Crown of Aragorn, 8B in Hueco Tanks which is a traverse Fred Nicole put up in 1996. Facebook

 
 
8c (b+) by Helena Alemán 
 

Helena Alemán has done T1 full equipe, 8c (b+) in Oliana. Last year Helena did four 8c. There are now some 40 female who have done 8c but only a handfull have done 8c+ out of which three have done 9a. Facebook

 
 
8A by Jill Church 
 

Jill Church has done Beefy Gecko, 8A in Bishop. "First 8A so probably soft, but felt hard to me. Three heel hooks, two toe hooks and a knee bar." Facebook

 
 
David Lama makes history again  (11)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Lama reports that he has done Feuertaufe, 8b in Lofer. "It offers great climbing in best wall and who’s at this level deffo has to try the route. And here’s a rating-suggestion from Hansjörg Auer and me: 7a+, 8b, 7c+, 6b, 7a, 7c+, 8a (Original: 7c, 8b+, 8a+, 6b, 7b+, 8a+, 8a+).

Two weeks ago David put up a six pitcher above Cevio/Ticino including two 8b+ and two 8a+ which Pesche Wüthrich had bolted. David is one of the most gifted climber equally impressive in all disciplines. In 2006, being 16 years old, he was second in his World Cup debut. The next event he won and then he won the European Championship and in between he won his Boulder WC debut. © Rainer Eder Facebook

 
 
8B with broken foot by Parsons  (28)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons broke his foot as he kicked the car who drove away after crushing into his van. A few days later he drove back to UK from Fontainebleau and within a week he did Ken Roof, 8B in Peak District.

"It was a painful one due to my foot being broken. It took me a long time to get my shoe on. Alex had to support the bones on top of my foot as I eventually pulled my shoe on. The problem also involves a toe hook which I could not really use properly due to the pain." (c) Courtney Sanders Facebook

 
 
8B+ by Francesco Carta 
 

Franscesco Carta has after two days done Christian Core's Gandalf il grigio, 8B+ in Varaze. Andrea Gennari Daneri Editor in chief of Pareti: "This guy's got the biggest potential ever seen in our country, kinda like a new Christian Core. Never seen anywone crimping so hard, so far."Youtube video Facebook

 
 
9a+ FA by Luis Alfonso Felix (35) *Updated 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLuis Alfonso Félix has done his first 9a+ with the FA of the 38 meters, 80 movements and 14 bolts, Black Block in Cuenca, after 1.5 years of projecting. The route deconstruction is: "A first part of five bolts weighting 8c+ by itself, followed by a transition zone of just one bolt with a small rest. Then, a power endurance section which brings you to the middle of the route where the 8A+ crux is." (Luis got to skip this part pulling a fixed rope during his early attempts). "After that it gets a little bit easier, being just an 8b+ to the top with a last vertical and technical part with small features for both hands and feet graded 7C Fb."

When Luis was 18 he lost half his index finger when he was climbing 7c. He has previoulsy done several 8c+ and 9a's. Spanish 8a interview with more pics by Javi Pec. Facebook

 
 
9a FA by Enzo Oddo  (3)
 

Enzo Oddo blogs about having done the FA of Salida del sol, 9a in Cantobre which was the Ultimate route at Petzl Roc Trip in 2004. Facebook

 
 
9a and 8c+'s by Jorg Verhoeven  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJorg Verhoeven reports from his trip to Red River Gorge where he did Pure Imagination, 9a and two 8c+'s. Further more, "25 routes 5.13 (7c+ to 8b) most on sight or flash. So freaking good to climb in the reds…" (c) Roman v.d. Werf

In 2008, Jorg won the Lead World Cup. This year he has participated in four events making the finals in all. Overall, he has made the podium in 23 events. Facebook

 
 
8A+ by Liam Vance (15) 
 

Liam Vance has done his second 8A+, Mandala in Bishop. "Stunning line. Dream come true! First go of the day." His first 8A+ he did when he was 14 years old. Facebook

 
 
8A by Katja Vidmar  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatja Vidmar has done her second 8A, Intensive in Črnotiče. "Super good weekend. I got wings after a good session in my project yesterday. So happy!!! Petting is next!"

Last year her personal best was 7C. In 2008, Katja was #5 in the Boulder World Cup and this year she was #4 in the only event she entered.

Katja's sister is Maja Vidmar who has been one of the leading females in the Lead World Cup as well as outdoors the last years. Facebook

 
 
8c+/9a by Gabri Moroni  (1)
 

Gabriele Moroni has done the second ascent by Adam Ondra's Masoniamoci, 8c+ in Masone.

Gabriele Moroni - Masoniamoci 8c+/9a from Granze on Vimeo.

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8a OS by Jakob Heber Norum (15) 
 

Jakob Heber Norum has onsighted his first 8a, Chiquita in Misja Pec. Two days later he was #5 in the Euro Youth Cup in Kranj and this was also his result overall. Facebook

 
 
9a by Daniel Jung  (2)
 

Daniel Jung reports that he did Inga, 9a in Gorges du Loup in October. Facebook

 
 
7th 8A by David Kompatscher (18) 
 

David Kompatscher has done seven 8A boulders during the last ten weeks. His personal best being 17 years old was 7B! Facebook

 
 
Progress by Ulrike Bromberger (42) 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUlrike Bromberger (42) who started climbing in 1991 is climbing better than ever as she the last two months have done two 8a's and three 7c+'. The last eight years she has made nice progress climbing some three times a week.

"I do not have a recipe, but in fact, I still see progress in my climbing career. I am happy. Let's wait an see if this was the summit. Keep going, have fun." Facebook

 
 
8B+ (C) and much more by Anthony Gullsten (19) 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnthony Gullsten has added ten boulders 8A and harder including Bernd Zangerl's Anam Cara in Silvretta for which he gives a personal grade of 8B+.

"Amazing day! It was minus degrees outside so the friction was perfect. Did the moves pretty fast and then sent on my fourth go from the beginning. Cool movement and sequence but a bit sharp."

The 19 year old fin has had a very strong progress the latest years and during the last 12 months he has done 73 boulders 8A and harder. He is 37 in the 8a game but without all his personal gradings, he would have been #3. Andy was #14 in the Boulder World Champion having done his preperation in Rocklands. Interview is coming up. Facebook

 
 
8a+ MP flash by Roland Hemetzberger 
 

Roland Hemetzberger has flashed the 170m De Hoabuchane, 8a+ in Lofer Alm. Fabian Hagenauer (17) gave all the valuable beta sothe most difficult part was actually walking down in the forest, 2.5 h instead of 0.5 h, as they forgot their headlamps. More info at their blog. Facebook

 
 
8b+ MP by Riccardo Scarian 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRiccardo Scarian (43) established last month Shakti which is 200m 8b+ on Eagles Peak. "It is, put simply, a jewel, up splendid rock, offering climbing with varied from steep overhang to technical slabs, above an impressive voice in a wild yet at the same time relaxing environment."
Full story

Riccardo born 1968 has previously put up several multi pitches and he is kind of a late bloomer having done many 8c+ and harder almost 40 years old. (c) Giampaolo Corona Facebook

 
 
8A by Brooke Raboutou (10) and other Team ABC Kids  (4)
 

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou has been with her Team ABC Kids in Hueco Tanks. Brooke Raboutou (10) who did her first 8b route being 9 year old has done her first 8A, Une Pointe de Bleau dans un Hueco. Big brother Shawn (13) did it second go and Megan Mascarenas (14) flashed it.

Click and scroll down to see an article about the amazing ABC Kids. Read about their Philosophy and Objectives etc. Facebook

 
 
8b Bigwall by Sonnie Trotter 
 

Planetmountain reports that Sonnie Trotter has done the first repeat of Leo Holding's 500m The Prophet, 8bR in Yosemite. Sonnie comments the three day ascent.

"I think it was the most savage and satisfying rock climb of my life. One of the hardest routes I have ever done. My first El Cap route ever. And I’m glad it’s over." Facebook

 
 
Five 8B's by Robin Mjelle 
 

Robin Mjelle has added five 8B's to his impressive list of hard boulders in Switzerland. In total he has done 17 8B boulders so the norwegian should be close to move into the 8B+ region. Streppenwolf video Facebook

 
 
9a by Jakob Schubert 
 

Jakob Schubert did also take the one hour drive down to Misja Pec where he did Martin Krpan, 9a. "Very soft for it's grade. 4th try this day, but tried it 2 years ago... nice after after party in misja pec! :)"

The next weekend the competition season ends in Barcelona and then the 20 year old will try some of the harder routes around Lleida. In April he did Papichulo, 9a+ in Oliana. Facebook

 
 
8b by Hannah Midtbř  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHannah Midtbř has done her fourth 8b in 2011, Santa Linya in Santa Linya.

"Classic route! A crux on it's own to clip the anchor. Went through the moves a few times, then did it second redpoint attempt."

In 2008, being 18 year old, Hannah was #3 in the Euro Boulder Championship. Last year, she did two 8A's. In the game, Hannah is #13.

Magnus Midtbř who has done several 9a - 9b and who was #4 in the world champion this year, is Hannah's two year older brother. Facebook

 
 
8b+ OS revenge for Ramonet and Edu 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque was only #11 in Kranj as he was timed out in the semi and Edu Marin was #17.

Instead of the finals on Sunday they drove down to Misja Pec where they both onsighted Millenium, 8b+ which they both said was pretty easy.

In 2009, Edu onsighted three 8c's and in 2006, he won a Lead WC. The double world champion, Ramonet has onsighted an 8c+ this year. (c) Heiko Wilhelm Facebook

 
 
8B+ by Ondřej Nevělík 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOndřej Nevělík has done Toni Lamprecht's classic The Dagger, 8B+ in Cresciano which Dave Graham added a sit start to in 2005, creating The Story of Two worlds, 8C.

"A dream comes true! In my head ever since I saw it 4years ago. My style, feet first all the way... only 4 full climbing days so no rest, 4 days on: 3 days on The Dagger and last day a 7C OS, 8A+ (Video), 8A with no skin, wish could stay longer, now back to reality:(" (c) Ramil Schneider Facebook

 
 
9a+ by Adam Taylor  (1)
 

DPM reports that Adam Taylor has done the first ascent of Southern Smoke direct, 9a+ in Red River Gorge. The direct version adds an 8B boulder start to the 8c+ route. Adam who previously has established one 8c+, that got upgraded to 9a, has worked the 9a+ route for two years. Some days ago, he finished with 60 pull-ups after having done the 8c+ version. Facebook

 
 
4th 8a+ by Philipp Gaßner (11) 
 

Philipp Gaßner (10) has done his fourth 8a+ in Frankenjura, SMS. Video of doing 8a+ being 10 years old. Facebook

 
 
8A by Stefanie Mathar again 
 

Stefanie Mathar has done her second 8A, Beefy Gecko in Bishop. Last year she did her first 7C (+) and this year she has already done six 7C+ and two 8A's putting her as #7 in the Game. Facebook

 
 
Two 8c+ by Ben Spannuth in USA 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBen Spannuth who had a personal best of 8b+ before he went to Spain in august, where he stepped up to 9a, has done two 8c+ in Red River Gorge.

He graduated in May and trained harder than ever during the summer which seems to have paid of reaching a new level. The 8c+' he did within 45 minutes and he has also onsighted two 8a+ etc putting him as #7 in the Game. Facebook

 
 
Gu is on fire  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has added Sur le fil, 8B+ in Switz making it 17 boulders 8B and harder during the last two months. "Again second Ascent of a Fred Nicole Masterpiece. This boulders need to be tried more they are amazing, same quality than in Ticino!!!"

Here Gu comments his extreme progress,...I felt that I have my body under control at a new level...(c) Baboonmaster.com Facebook

 
 
8B FA by Stefan Rasmussen (40)  (6)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Rasmussen the man behind almost all hard core bouldering around Västervik has opened Gypsy heart, 8B.

"I took a chance, drove one hour and it turned out to be perfect conditions with four degrees. Many youngsters opt for warmer conditions so I mainly climb alone. I have another 20 hard boulders in the area for this winter season." Video (c) Dominik Hadwiger Facebook

 
 
8A by Mirko Caballero (10)  (11)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero has had a great trip to Hueco Tanks where he among other things did his first 8A, Schwerer Gustov. "I love bouldering, but started to rope climb as well in 2011. I train in the Gym, but just to get strong. My passion is climbing outdoors meeting new people and climbing with them. Facebook

 
 
8C by Sean McColl before Lead WC  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSean McColl who was second in the last Lead WC has prepared for the Kranj WC this weekend only by bouldering in Switzerland. Yesterday he did Big Paw, 8C in Chironico to his long list the last week.

"This is my hardest boulder to date and the line is majestic! I found the the boulder fit me very well, although the short person beta was very hard. I had great conditions and I'm in the best shape of my life. A very successful Switzerland bouldering trip!

I have a rest day today, then tomorrow I'll try to finish "The Dagger", then maybe one more day of climbing, or maybe two rest days before the WC." Facebook

 
 
9a FA by Manu Romain 
 

Manu Romain reports that he has done the FA of a 9a which is a link-up of a 8c+, 8a and 8b on La Roche de Rame. In the 2011 Lead WC, Manu is #4 and the lasts years he was, #7 and #6. Since 2009, his worst result of 22 WC's was #12" Facebook

 
 
8A+ and 8A by Conny Matthes 
 

Conny Matthes has had a great day in Frankenjura having done Rothauttraverse, 8A+ and Billiardtraverse, 8A. Facebook

 
 
Chelsea Rude blogs Journey vs Result 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChelsea Rude who earlier this year was #17 and #11 in a Boulder and Lead WC in USA, has written a nice blog about the mental journey she took to do Ixeia, 8b+ in Rodellar which 8a reported some weeks ago.

"I sat and looked at the scenery, I paid attention to the birds flying in the sky, how the sun somehow always managed to make everything in Spain look orange, all the rock that surrounded me, and I also listened to all of the other people in the area climbing a’muerte. I realized that at that moment I couldn’t be in a better location or position." Facebook

 
 
8B+ by Sean McColl in 1.5 hours  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSean McColl, who was #2 in the last Lead WC, has changed arena and prepars for the next Lead WC by 10 days bouldering in Switzerland. "I don't think I'll lose any endurance while here as I'm only here for 2 weeks. I'll maybe gain some power and a nice break from training 4 days a week on platic!" (c) C.Loury/Planetgrimpe

During the first day he has done five classic 7C+ to 8A+ and New Base Line, 8B+. "Took me 1.5 hours on my second day after trying it for 15 minutes on the first day. I found the problem fit my style very well and I've always wanted to try it. I'm so happy that it came together so fast and thanks to Daniel, Paul and Courtney for the encouragement!" Facebook

 
 
7C+ by Isabelle Faus (18) 
 

Isabelle Faus has done Tres de las Quintas, 7C+ in Chattanooga. Facebook

 
 
Gu sends again, again and again...  (3)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has done his 14th 8B and harder the last 2 months by doing Phase 2, 8B+ in Sustenpass.

"Physical & mental warring, felt about 6 times at the last move before i stuck it. Really cold day with rain everywhere around us! Quite lucky... Swiss is having so many nice areas outside of Ticino. Many rocks left to be climbed!" Facebook

 
 
9a FA by Cedric Lachat 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNina Caprez reports that her boyfriend Cedric Lachat has done an extension to Speed in Voralpsee for which he proposes 9a. (c) Stefan Schlumpf

Speed was put up in 1995 by Beat Kammerlander as an 8c+ "but anywhere else would be graded 9a". It does not end at the top so Cedric continued up the 8b extension of Lucy to the left.

"So often he felt because his foot were slipping or other stupid things. Also it was really hard to memorize all the foot holds in this 30m line. Every hold looks kind of similar and the fact that he tried once per year, he forgot everything! that's Cedric!;-)" Facebook

 
 
9a by Felix Knaub (19) 
 

UKC reports that Felix Knaub has done the ultra classic Action Direct, 9a in Frankenjura which Wolfgang Güllich put up in 1991. Felix did his first 9a when he was 17 year old, Matador also in Frankenjura. Facebook

 
 
8B again by Guntram Jörg  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has done his ninth 8B in a month, Bourguignon in Murgtal. "Sec. Ascent, First established by Fred Nicole. Mega compression climb all the way up. One of the best, Fred was also there and told me some beta and i crushed it before it got dark, took me about half an hour but its 4 shure a hard one!" Gu comments his extreme progress lately. Facebook

 
 
New 8c, 18 pitches on Madagascar  (5)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUpdate: The news seems to be based on some misunderstanding since they actually just did the pitches up to 7c. The rest they aided. Planetmountain reports that Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur in August have established Dreams of Youth on Tsaranoro Atsimo which is a 700m, 18 pitches including one 8c and three 8b+'s. (c) Kletterzene

Last October, Adam Ondra established Mora Mora 8c 700 m and repeated a 600m 8b and a 380m 8c in the same spectacular area. Facebook

 
 
Caldwell twitter from snowy El Cap 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTommy Caldwell twitters from his El Cap 30 pitches project where he already has spent a week with his wife.

"That was a intense one today on pitch 12. First I pulled a few pitons and took big falls. Then I broke a few footholds. Five tries later I finally had the new sequence through the bottom worked out. Then I fell at the very end... Twice. Temps never got above freezing. Eight tries in all and no send. The good news is that I am feeling strong. This one just wasn't in the cards for me today." Facebook

 
 
8c+ by Dylan Barks (16) 
 

Dylan Barks has jumped two grades and done Joe Kinder's Southern smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. In the -95 ranking game he is #7. Facebook

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