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2014 Psicobloc Masters HIGHLIGHTS  Facebook
 

 
 
Pandemonium: The best 8a in South Africa?!  Facebook
 

Pandemonium at Coppermine on the Cape Peninsula from David Mason on Vimeo.

 
 
German bouldering training  Facebook
 

 
 
Kai Lightner - Better than To good to be true  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKai Lighter (14) has done 8c+ and onsighted 8b+ although his gym is 5.5 m high, his coaches live 6-12 h away and that he seldom climbs outdoors. His website and well written blog are equally staggering and here are some quick FB answers from the phenomena.

"My mom has been making me write reports on vacations since age 6. I have a binder of reports dating back to kindergarten paper and pictures of my 2006 trip to DC. Mom is a teacher..... I used to hate it. Its actually fun now.

It's just me and my mom and she hates climbing, hiking, outdoors. I have not been able to convince her to climb, but she is almost always the person on belay at the gym and the crag. My coaches have always lived 6-12 hours away, so she has always trained with me. They taught her how to work with me.

I train 5 days a week, around 20 hours total. I am primarily an indoor competitive climber. A few times a year I get outside on real rock. Since outdoor climbing is so far away from where I live, I don’t get outside as much as I would like. Last year I got one 5 day outdoor trip and 5 or 6 weekend trips. This year I haven’t been as lucky. "
(c) James Edward Mills

 
 
Outdoor Research's 2015 Spring/Summer Women Collection  Facebook
 

 
 
Bouldering comps much more fun to watch  Facebook
 

Based on 1 200 unique votes, "Best Comps To Watch?", bouldering comps can be considered much more fun to watch compared to Lead and Speed. Surprising is that actually many more chose Deep Water Solo over Lead comps.

62 % Bouldering
17 % Deep Water Solo
12 % Lead
01 % Speed
09 % All comps are boring

 
 
Euro Youth Cup Laengenfeld  (1) Facebook
 

France, Italy, Slovenia and Austria dominated the Euro Youth Cup in Laengenfeld in Austria. In fact, these four countries had a total of 24 finalists out of 36. The route setting and the whole competition was very well organized.

95: Kentin Boulay FRA - Jessica Pilz AUT
97: Clement Ozun FRA - Martina Zanetti ITA
99: Filip Schenk ITA - Janja Garnbret SLO

 
 
Juan Puig climbing 'Malsońando', 8c in Bovedón de Gandía  Facebook
 

 
 
Johanna Ernst does Wallstreet 8c  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCafekraft reports that Johanna Ernst, who won the Lead Worl Cup 08 and 09 being 15 and 16 years old, has done Wallstreet in Frankenjura. It was put up by Wolfgang Gullich in 1987 as the first 8c in the world.

 
 
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: Rocklands 2014  Facebook
 

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: Rocklands 2014

 
 
FA trip to South Africa by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

 
 
McColl tries to reclimb Hubble 8c+ (9a)  (8) Facebook
 

Ben Moon made the FA of Hubble in 1990 as the first 8c+ in the world. With only four, kind of old repeats by British old school climbers, and that Adam Ondra has said it is as hard as Action Directe, it is maybe the first 9a in the world. The video is part of the Mammut reclimbing the classics giving credit to the first sport climbing pioneers.

 
 
8c in UK by Emma Twyford  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe BMC reports with a nice interview that Emma Twyford has done Unjustified in Malham Cove which is the first ever female 8c in UK. (c) DMM

 
 
Joe Kinder - Garbage Pail Kids  Facebook
 

 
 
Video essay about climbing Euro Champion Romain Desgranges  Facebook
 

 
 
Niky Ceria in Red Rocks 2014  Facebook
 

Red Rocks - Jan 14 from niky_ceria on Vimeo.

 
 
BMI limits for the Swedish National Teams 2015  (41) Facebook
 

The National coaches for Sweden appreciated that Charlotte Durif wrote an open letter saying that IFSC needs to tackle anorexia in competition climbing. Currently, the only health control that IFSC undertakes with the athlete is that they should "be able to do five consecutive single-leg jumps with each leg... and also five push ups".

Austria is the only country with a BMI regulation and this have unofficially been used in Sweden for several years. Starting from 2015, Sweden will also officially adapt the Austria's BMI limits in order to help parents, trainers, gym owners, coaches and athletes pin point a problem in competition climbing.

It should be noted that in 2008, 8a discussed to have a BMI recommendation identical to what Austria had. This article was heavily criticised although it was just a recommendation in order to address the issue.

 
 
Amazing 360 ascent of Eiger North Face  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMammut presents an amazing 360 ascent of The Eiger North Face which were captured by six cameras installed in a specially designed backpack to reproduce a complete panoramic 360 view. You can choose different points at the route with the 360° view, video and history etc here. It is just packed with so much info so you could easily spend an hour getting a breath taking experience.

 
 
Four Grigri competitors at Outdoor 2014  (25) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Grigri from Petzl has been the most used locking belay device for almost 20 years inspite of having had some safety issues and that several competitors have tried to come up with better products. During Outdoor 2014, however, four Grigri competitors were released which actually seems to be a step up as when it comes to; Safety, Weight, User friendliness and Price.

Both Edelrid and C.A.M.P. presents belay looking devices where the start of the brake goes dynamically. DMM's device is the smallest and weighs only 86 gram less than half of the Grigri 2. Climbing Technolygy's have we been tested before and is now the choice for the Swedish national coach, see the picture.

We will come back with reviews including how easy it is to lower down your friend several kilometres during the winter season in the gym. It just might be that the Grigri is about to get outdated?

 
 
Meagan Martin Athlete Spotlight  Facebook
 

 
 
Two great 8A+ in Grampians  Facebook
 

The Last Resort & Roobix Cube from Oliver Miller on Vimeo.

 
 
David Noddings presents the 'Grip' belay device in F-hafen 2014  Facebook
 

 
 
2014 Psicobloc Masters  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Which Comps Best To Watch  (2) Facebook
 


 
 
Kalymnos covers leading swedish newspaper  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDN is the largest and most respected Swedish newspaper and yesterday, a picture from Kalymnos and Grande Grotta covered their first page. Inside, there were a four page article focusing on what a great climbing destination Kalymnos is.

 
 
New DWS in Sicily  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUP-Climbing has a nice article about a new DWS location in Sicily called Syracuse. (c) robertozampinophoto.com

"The interesting cliff is the part that hugs the coast, accessible by bike path that connected the lower part of the city whit the upper. This is 6 kilometers long and is characterized by caves and coves visited by tourists using boats. Now, there are 3 main locations for DWS.

 
 
Supernormal  Facebook
 

Supernormal from HEIGHT FILMS on Vimeo.

 
 
World Championship mental preperation for Puccio, outdoors  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio, one of the best competition climbers the last years, skipped the last two WC's and just during the last month she has done six 8A+ to 8B+. The 25 year old, has more or less for five years, been the #1 in the 8a ranking game and now she is more superior than ever. In 10 days she will compete in the World Championship in Germany and this nice quote is from Facebook.

"Thank you everyone for all your support and kind words, it really does mean a lot to me. After not having a great season at the World Cups I realized I had to change something within myself and my climbing. I had put way to much pressure on myself and couldn't handle it anymore. My brain, body and emotions were so depleted of psych and energy I made the decision to skip the last 2 World Cups this year and just go outside climbing.

It was so nice to reboot and just feel free of everything for a change. In these last few months I have learned so much about myself physically and mentally. It has really opened my eyes and was a beautiful breath of fresh air. With my new outlook on myself and my climbing I feel more prepared for my future challenges, if it's a competition or another project outside I feel much better about it all. And I feel very honored when I hear that I was able help motivate others to reach their own goals.

 
 
Psicobloc Masters 2014  Facebook
 

 
 
Buhrfeid and McColl win Psicobloc  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe first Psicobloc Masters last year was a great success and this year the route setting team including Dani Andrada and the athletes made an ever greater show. The female route was 7c+ and the male 8b and Sean McColl climbed the 15 meter wall in 42 seconds winning USD 5 000. Sean has for several years been one of the very best World Cup climber in both Lead and Boulder and he is actually the only male who also often take part in Speed WC's. 3 hours video from the great show where the male finals starts 2.53. (c) Eric Hörst

1. Sean McColl - Clair Buhrfeind
2. Daniel Woods - Delaney Miller
3. Traversi/Sharma - Puccio/McKeehan

 
 
Abella de la Conca  (1) Facebook
 

Abella de la Conca - Hard to leave…. from Foto Vertical on Vimeo.

 
 
Firnenburg brothers in Kjugekull  Facebook
 

 
 
5 000 new members last year = 55 000 in total  Facebook
 

In September last year, 8a reached 50 000 members and this weekend member 55 000 will sign up. At the same time, more than 300 000 new ascents have been added creating a total of 3.1 million ascents that will help you to climb the best routes and Boulders around the globe.

In total, you can find tick lists, ranking the best climbs, for more than 5 000 crags and all can be found in the 8a topo App where you also can find some 1 000 Left-Right Topos. Here you can easily create a topo.

 
 
Durif says IFSC need to tackle anorexia  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharlotte Durif, one of the very best female climbers in the world during the last ten years when she won the Euro Championship being just 16 years old, has written an open letter, published in crimper.com.

Her message is that the WC competitions have been better but the route setting must be improved. Further more, she says that IFSC and the media need to deal with anorexia as that is a problem among the best climbers. Charlotte thinks that anorexia is like doping.

She feels that the media have not taken this subject on and that she feels guilty for staying silent and participating and therefore cautioning this practice. As she sees that only one federation has taken steps to stop this (she doesnt say which one but it is Austria), she wants the climber themselves to take on this problem and tackle it and she wants to do what she can to contribute to change this.

Some 8a years ago, 8a discussed this problem saying that a BMI regulation like they have in Austria could be a recommendation and a signal to the climbing community.

 
 
Stefano Codazzi from CT presents the Click Up belay device in F-hafen 2014  Facebook
 

 
 
David Mason climbing in Right Fork, Joe's Valley  Facebook
 

Right Fork: Joe's Valley from David Mason on Vimeo.

 
 
Upgrade some boulders to 8C+  Facebook
 

There are currently just a couple boulders that are graded 8C+ and they are all like semi traverses. At the same time, probably 20 guys have done 8C and possibly 80 8B+ (two grades below max) just the last year, out of which three are female.

In comparison, the grade pyramid for routes are, in opposit, super pointed and only 10 have done 9a+, i.e. two grades below the max grade.

The simple logic and solution for this extreame situation is that some 8C boulders should be upgraded. The best guys in the world should actually be hunting 9A's nowadays but it seems these guys are more modest and do not focus on the grades.

In 2005, 8a and Dave Graham argued succesfully for stopping the grade inflation and now we need some inflation again to balance things up.

 
 
The Lead WC Time regulation must also be improved  Facebook
 

It is not good for our sport trying to make it to the Olympics, that both the spectators and the live stream commentators did not know who if Jain Kim had been timed out in Imst. Apparantely, the timer on the big screen was not the same as the official timer.

Some years ago, a warning signal was given when one minute was left and clearly it would be much better for everyone if IFSC instead of taken away the warning signal increased it with also count down the last ten seconds.

We have had several similar incidents before and they will happend again creating a bad vibe for competition climbing. In fact, it seems that there has been one major problem in almost half of the WC's lately. Clearly, IFSC has to step up the game and change some rules in order to increase the Olympic possibilities.

 
 
Angie Payne Sends Freaks of the Industry 8B  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEarlier this week Angie Payne finally sent her four-year project, Freaks of the Industry in RMNP. The problem was originally graded 8B+ though now it is generally considered 8B and is Angie's 2nd of the grade. Congratulations to her on this achievement!

On her Facebook she says:
"Over the course of 60+ days of effort I have experienced more emotions and beautiful moments than I ever imagined a single piece of rock could bring. SO HAPPY to finish this one. What an adventure..."

Photo: Angie's celebration for sending Freaks from her Facebook athlete page. Also check out Angie's wonderful Instagram.

 
 
Lead WC after four events  Facebook
 

1. Jain Kim 380 - Jakob Schubert 310
2. Magdalena Röck 340 - Sean McColl 244
3. Anak Verhoeven 240 - Romain Desgranges 241
4. Mina Markovic 214 - Sachi Amma 200
5. Dinara Fakhritdinova 158 - Gauthier Supper 183

It should be noted that Sachi Amma, who won the WC the last two years, have chosen to participate in only two events in 2014 and won them both. Overall, it is no new climbers in the Top-15 for both male and female compared to 2013.

 
 
Frankenjura bouldering by Phil Hrozek  Facebook
 

frankenjura bouldering / phil hrozek from Evolvsports Germany on Vimeo.

 
 
8B (+) by Euan McFadyen (16)  Facebook
 

Euan McFadyen has started up his trip to Rocklands great by doing The Vice 8B and Kings of Limb 8B (+). "Had to put everything I had into this boulder. Much more than just another grade." The 16 year old has previously in 2014 done one 8B and flashed two 8A's.

 
 
Alex Puccio Sends Jade 8B+  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has sent Jade 8B+, which was put up as an 8C, at RMNP today. This is her first 8B+ and was for a while the hardest problem in North America.

"Excited!!! :D I will remember this forever! Did it on my first go of my 4th day trying it. So close to sending on the first day, fell on the last move and then tore my finger tip. Went back 2 other days in horrible conditions and realized I will need to wait till it was dry out. It finally stopped raining and I was able to go and climb it! :D"

Alex has for several years been the superior ranking leader in the 8a ranking game and together with her great World Cup results, she has been the best female Boulder in the World together with Anna Stöhr.

 
 
Imst WC - 34 % more athletes in 2014  (3) Facebook
 

The good news for IFSC is that the trend for more participants in the Lead World Cup continues in Imst with 46 female and 52 male registered to start which can be compared to 35 + 41 in 2013.

The qualification starts on Friday 9 am and the Live streaming starts on friday 18.15 with the semifinal. The final starts on saturday 19.15. Updated results.

 
 
One week with Megos in UK  Facebook
 

One Week with Alex Megos from DMM Climbing on Vimeo.

 
 
8b by Maggie Smith-Odette (44)  Facebook
 

Maggie Smith-Odette

 
 
The Send Hörst Bros Trailer  Facebook
 

The Send Bros Trailer from Three Peak Films on Vimeo.

 
 
Sierra Blair-Coyle 113 000 likes at Facebook  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRock & Ice has made an interview with Sierra Blair-Coyle who with 116 000 likes at Facebook is #3 after Alex Honnold with 123 000 likes and Sasha Digiulian with 120 000 likes. Sierra was #24 and #28 in two Boulder WC events in 2014.

"My hardest outdoors was a V9 (7C), Paleozoic in Hueco. I did it when I was 11, and everyone was trying to out-boulder each other grade-wise, and then I realized that didn’t matter to me.

I don’t think I’ve ever bouldered a V8 (7B+) outside, but a lot inside."


#4 is Chris Sharma with 81 000 even though he just joined ten days ago. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Iker Arroitajauregi - Hoyamoros 2014 - Respect  Facebook
 

 
 
Edu Marin is back from his injury with an 8c+/9a  Facebook
 

 
 
 
8c by Brooke Raboutou (11)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBrooke Raboutou has done Welcome to Tijuana in Rodellar which should be one of the most remarkable ascents in the history as we are talking a classic well confirmed 8c by a 11 year old girl. More info to come and on Team ABC Blog.

Her mother, Robin Erbesfield, did win four straight world cup titles in the beginning of the 90-ties before she stopped competing and only focused on rock. The last years Robyn has been running ABC Kids and been doing at least one 8b every year.

photo: Team ABC in Spain (c) Team ABC Blog

 
 
Yet another 8c+ OS by Adam Ondra  (11) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has onsighted yet another 8c+ in Flatanger, Muy Verdes which was bolted by Dani Andrada and the FA was done by Erik Grandelius. Instead of trying to do the FA, Adam did just wait until Erik projected it down after four days.

Erik was just amazed after having seen him the first day in the cave and could not stop talking about the super hard moves he did so easily. This is also the major reason why Erik almost stopped competing in the WC as the top climbers are not within reach.

 
 
Michael Piccolruaz: #1 among the 16 year olds?  Facebook
 

Michael Piccolruaz has recorded three 8A+ in Magic Woods out of which Massive Attack, originally 8B, was done in some 15 minutes over two sessions. In addition he did six previous originally 8A boulders which he gave 7C or 7C+.

 
 
8a+ by Maggie Smith (42)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMaggie Smith gives just another good example that progress beyond 40+ is possible. Yesterday, the 42 year old did her first 8a+, June Reactor in Coliseum. The picture by Shannon Lamb shows her doing the first 8a, La Confianza and as a matter of fact she has improved one grade every year since 7c.

 
 
8A+'s by Shauna Coxsey and UK Champ  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey has done two 8A+'s in Parisella's cave, In Hell and Halfway House for which she gives a personal grade of 8A. More info at her blog.

Only the last month, the 19 year old has done eight boulders 8A and harder. In the Boulder Cup 2012, she is #2 before the last event and last week she won the British Championships. (c) Paul Bennett

"I leave for Magic Wood on Monday for a few week. It might be more of a chill out time as I think it's quite hot there. And then I have lots of comps on over the summer before heading back to America in October."

Any special preperation before the last event in Munich?
No special training, I want to climb on rock as much as I can and have a few session indoor here and there. I am so happy with my results already this year I just want to enjoy the last few comps. I am really looking forward to training for next season though!

 
 
8A again by Conny Matthes  Facebook
 

Conny Matthes has done Th Trabi, 8A in Thüringen which was her eight 8A and harder the last year. Totally, she has done 17 boulders 8A and harder which should put her in Top-20 in the All Time High List.

 
 
8A+ OS by Jan Dedonder  Facebook
 

Jan Dedonder has onsighted The Sqwuaminator, 8A+ in Squamish. "I can't believe I did that, insane gorgeous problem." You understand what he says as he has previously only done one 8A+ and that it might be the first 8A+ onsight in the world.

 
 
8C? in 30 min by Hukkataival  (76) Facebook
 

Nalle Hukkataival blogs about his first day in Cape town where he made the first repeat of Paul Robinson's A Simple Knowing, 8C in Topside. Video where the action starts 11.30 min.

"I managed to climb it quickly in half an hour. It’s a nice problem, but once again nowhere near the difficulty that I consider V15 (8C).

 
 
Adam Ondra comments his amazing sends  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has recorded 14 ascents, out of which 13 climbs did get 3 stars, from his first two weeks in Scandinavia. Only these would have made him a superior leader in the 8a game. On the pic by Petr Pavlicek who is filming everything, you can see the 31 quickdraws he started with as he onsighted Nordic Flower, 8c+ (9a).

Loven: "This crag is insanely good!"
Ekne: "I love Norway."
Odin's Eye, 8c+: "... possibly the most valuable onsight ever for me. Incredible piece of rock."
Thor's Hammer, 9a+: "First two pitches of multi-pitch monster project from Magnus Midtboe (enormous effort) linked into a massive 55-meter long pitch. Could be easy 9b, but climbed it rather fast and found some better beta compared to Magnus.

 
 
8A by Maria Davies Sandbu in 45 min  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMaria Davies Sandbu is back in Rocklands where she has done The Hatchling, 8A for which she only used 45 min, and also another two previous 8A's giving them 7C+. In the ranking game, the 20 year old Norweigian is #2 in the world after Alex Puccio.

The 20 year old Norwegian reports about good conditions in general but has not yet decided which will be her next project. She has three weeks left.

 
 
8c+ or 9a slab by James McHaffie  (3) Facebook
 

Planetmountain has the story of James McHaffie doing the 25 year old slab project, The Meltdown for which he says it is 8c+ or 9a, meaning that it is one of the most difficult slabs in the world.

 
 
On the road to The North Face Kalymnos Festival  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ (9a) OS by Adam Ondra  (15) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has onsighted Jorg Verhoeven's Nordic Flower in Flatanger. ""It is 8c+ only if you have 30 quickdraws on your harness". As it can be seen from the picture of Miroslav Minarik he used two ropes and put up the quickdraws during the climb.

In total, the 19 year old (who was the best World Cup competitor during 2009 and 2010), has onsighted eleven 8c+s excluding the ones he has down graded. To put this into perspective, the "runner ups" in this game, Ramonet and Patxi Usobiaga, have done one each.

Also in bouldering, Adam is #1 in the game and has not yet reported from his Norwegian trip is his ascent of Blood Redemption in Matre, for which he gave a personal grade of 8B+. FA by Magnus Midtbö.

 
 
8c FA by Chuck Odette (56)  Facebook
 

Chuck Odette who started to climb in 1978 has done his first 8c, Morphine in Coliseum. Hardest thing I've ever done. Since it's an FA it will need confirmation, no doubt. I am proposing 8c but that could change. It's an amazing climb, enduring, varied, powerful & fun :)

 
 
8b+ again by Cameron Hörst (11)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst has done his second 8b+ on his fourth try, Galactic Emperor in Ten Sleep which is an extension to Sky Pilot, 8b. The 11 year old has been climbing for eight years and his father Eric is a well known trainer.

I also enjoy playing tackle football (I'm the Quarterback for my 5th grade team--we won the league championship in 2011!) and team basketball in the winter. I also enjoy snow skiing.

 
 
8a+ by Brooke Raboutou (11)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBrooke Raboutou has done le Branlotin, 8a+ in Rodellar. When she was 10 years old she did her first 8b (+). Her mother Robyn Erbesfield (49), four times WC winner overall, is doing hardest grades in the family.

 
 
9a by Dino Lagni (44)  Facebook
 

Planetmountain reports that Dino Lagni (44) has done his first 9a by doing the first repeat of Silvio Reffo's Attimo, 9a in Covolo. In 1999, the Italian won the Lead World Champion. This is once again a nice example of the uniqueness when it comes to climbing and age.

 
 
9a+/b (FA) & 9a+ by Ramonet during the weekend  (14) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julián Puigblanqué, who did the 9a+ of 'Catxasa' at 39ş C in Santa Linya last weekend, did another one yesterday by making the first repeat of Iker Pou's Nit de Bruixes, 9a+ in Margalef (Iker's nice video below).
Since it started raining and the objective of the day was already done by midday, he drove to Sta. Linya where he had the time to on-sight an 8b+ and to send another one in two goes.

But that was not all for him this last weekend because last Friday he returned to Santa Linya for a photographic session on 'Catxasa' with Carlos Pérez Díaz and during one of his 'posing goes' he surprised himself by reaching the firsts anchors (9a+), got motivated and decided to keep on going till finally reaching the second chains after around an hour of fighting and some over extended rests waiting for the photographer to get on the right spot... It turned out to be the FA up to that point... Waiting for others to repeat it, he thinks it might be 9a+/b.

 
 
8A+ by Melissa Le Neve  Facebook
 

Melissa Le Neve has done Tea With Elmarie, 8A+ in Rocklands. In total she has done ten boulders 8A and harder down there including one flash. Climbing is an obsession, I really want to progress, going to my limits is my project. Since three years I really like to go outside and I really want make lots of trip in the world. I want to express myself outside in lead as in bouldering and in competition.

 
 
High altitude 9a+ FA and much more in Borneo  (6) Facebook
 

Daniel Woods has done the FA of Tinipi, 9a+ which was bolted by Yuji Hirayama in Mount Kinabalu at almost 4 000 m altitude in Borneo. Yuji also made the FA of the two pitch Pogulian Do Koduduo,9a. It should be noted that he has previously said that the grades would have been lower at sea level.

 
 
8A (+) and 8A by Shauna Coxsey  Facebook
 

Shauna Coxsey is back in UK from her successful trip to Colorado where she was #2 in Vail and did several 8A and harder. In Parisella's cave she has done Halfway house giving it a personal grade of 8A and Pit of Hell Start' 8A.

 
 
8a OS by Tito Traversa (11)  (7) Facebook
 

Tito Claudio Traversa has onsighted his first 8a, La Perdonavidas in Margalef. "35m of fighting putting up the drawers." During the last week, the 11 year old has onsighted some 20 routes 7b and harder. Adam Ondra onsighted several 8a+ before he turned 12.

 
 
8B+ (C) by James Webb  Facebook
 

James Webb has done Daniel Wood's Warrior up in Mt Evans suggesting a personal grade of 8B+. "3rd ascent. Really psyched to put it together. Didn't think it was possible for me at first. Don't know about the 8C though.. at least for my height. Few more weeks in Boulder.. then off to Rifle!

 
 
8a OS by Michaela Kiersch (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaela Kiersch has don her first 8a onsight, Flour power in Red River Gorge. The 17 year old has previously onsighted two 7c+ and redpointed two 8b's. (c) Julien Gasc from Swingline, 8b.

 
 
Catxasa, 9a+ by Ramonet  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque has made the first repeat of Chris Sharma's Catxasa in Santa Linya despite a temperature of 39 degrees. In his blog he says that the heat was just too much and he was wondering why the hell he was in the cave to start with. But instead of leaving, he went up to check the moves and later sent the route on his second try of the day, to his big surprise. In total, he worked the route for four days and it was his sixth 9a+. (c) M Alba

 
 
8c+ and 8c FA by Adam Ondra in Granitgrottan  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOn his first day of his six-week film making trip to Scandinavia, Adam Ondra has opened an 8c+ in Granitgrottan where the business starts passing an arete lip after a roof. "If this boulder had been located in Ticino, there would always have been a long queue for it! Awesome rock and sequence. This is the hardest-to-onsight climbing rock I have ever encountered."

Adam also opened an 8c second go. More info, pictures and interview to come. (c) Alvaro Susena

 
 
First 8b+ by Edita Vopatová (19)  (29) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdita Vopatová who previously has done ten 8b's has done her first 8b+, 8b+ in Frankenjura. The 19 year old has had a nice progress for seven straight years and she is seventh in the game.

 
 
8B+ by Michael Piccolruaz (16)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichael Piccolruaz has done Never ending story, 8B+ in Magic Woods. "Wow! A dream come true! After falling twice on the last hard move just because of a simple foot slip, I managed to climb the whole line. I was just super relieved and super happy holding the final top hold and I still can't believe that I was able to climb this awesome historical line.

It wasn't even my goal to try the whole line, but once I did the second part so easily and I knew that I climbed the first part quite fluently last year, I decided to try the whole boulder. And it turned out that it is possible =)"
Last year he was #2 in two Euro Youth Boulder Cups (c) Alpenverein.it

 
 
Ethan Pringle opens 9a and 8c+  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle recaps his 2012 activity in a long nice blog including the FA of the heavily chipped Arrested Development, 9a in Mt Charleston.

"While the route is manufactured, and heavily in spots, it is still one of the most fun to climb on routes I’ve ever done...
And lets be honest, how many 5.14s are there in this country that have no glued or chipped holds… I might be able to count them on both hands… and 7 of them are in the Red.
"

Yesterday, Ethan opened Eye of Odin, 8c+ in Flatanger on solid granitic gneiss where the Norwegian Federation has had a 20 year celebration festival. A total of 87 new routes where bolted and 220 climbers did show up. (c) Ole Karsten Birkeland

 
 
8B+ by Matt Fultz  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz has done his first 8B+, Warpath in Castle Rock which is a 25 mover he has been working on since 2010 including a 3.5 hours drive. "Warpath is truly an amazing climb. This roof is located in Castle Rock, ID, and is surrounded by mountains, trees, and wildlife. The roof itself, dubbed the “Taco Cave”, is one of the best boulders I’ve ever climbed on and features perfectly sculpted crimps and pinches." More nice info at Climbidaho.

Matt (20) is one of the wonder kids who did 8b+ being 14 years old and who also performed very good in competitions. Today with 78 kg he is more focused on boulders.

 
 
8b again by Tito Claudio Traversa (11)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTito Claudio Traversa are having some nice hot and productive days in Margalef where he has done his tenth 8b, Xiketeta on his third go. The eleven year old has also onsighted six 7b+ and 7c's. (c) Marco Spataro

Tito who climbs every other week and does not follow a training programme did his first 8b when he was nine.Titotraversa.it

 
 
8a+ again by Eva Scroccaro (13)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEva Scroccaro has done her third 8a+, Dubbio finale in Baratro. Last year, she did her first 8b. Eva started to climb when she was 4 and it is all about playing with her friends and her mother Giulia who is at the same level. (c) Paolo Zamolo

 
 
Another 8A+ for Coxsey  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey has continued her tear through Colorado bouldering, climbing at night to avoid the hot temperatures. The night of June 20th she sent Riddles in the Park, 8A+ (it was her second day of trying it) and flashed Right El Jorge (7C) and Skipper D (7B+), all at Rocky Mountain National Park. She has only a few days left in her trip before heading back to Europe for the summer. Photo - Coxsey on Riddles (c) David Mason

 
 
8a OS by Samuel Hammer (14)  (3) Facebook
 

Samuel Hammer has done Gaia, 8b at Kalymnos. The Finn is #2 in the combined ranking game for the 14 year old's.

Yesterday, Samuel did his first 8a onsight, Zero Chichon at Kalymnos.

 
 
8c+ by Dani Lopez (44)  Facebook
 

Dani Lopez is once again sending good vibes for all 40+ guys who want to continue to improve by doing Superquimera, 8c+ in Peńarrubia. Already in 1995, Manu was doing 8b and his first out of four 8c+, he did when he was 42!

 
 
First 8B+ by Jan Hojer (20)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Hojer has had three amazing days in Magic Woods where he did eight boulders 8A and harder including The Never Ending Story, 8B+ and flashing Jack's broken Heart, 8A+ and Octopussy, 8A. Prior to Magic, Jan's personal best was 8A+.

On the competition arena, the 20 year old has been one of the best in the Euro Youth Cup between 2006 and 2011. In 2008, he was #9 in one WC being 16 years old. Last year he won one Euro Youth Boulder and in the last Boulder WC in Vail he was #3. Talk about amazing progrogress lately.

 
 
9a FA by Manu Lopez  (1) Facebook
 

Manu Lopez has done the FA of Kif kif demain, 9a in Bielsa in Spain which based on star rating is one of the best quality crags in the world.

 
 
8b+ (c) by Daila Ojeda  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaila Ojeda has done Los Humildes pa Casa in Oliana giving it a personal grade of 8b+ and 3 stars. The route is one of the highest rated routes in the 8a data base and in fact, everyone who has rated it, gave it 3 stars. Daila has previously done two 8c's. Spanish blog (c) Maria Torres

 
 
7C+ by Megan Mascarenas (14)  Facebook
 

Megan Mascarenas has done Public Execution, 7C+ in Mt Evans. The 14 year old super tallent started to climb when she was 2 has previously flashed a 7C+ (8A).

 
 
8A+ by Melissa Le Nevé  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMelissa Le Nevé who was #4 in the Boulder WC in 2011 has done Amphitheatre, 8A+ in Rocklands. " I think i can't find a boulder more in my style. We went sooo far in the wild to find this cool boulder and at least I was really happy to climb it. It's a really pure line". More info and pics in her blog, "I like so much this place, i feel really free, in peace..... I like to be there, walk and hear the nature growing.... it's really quite, without humans noise.... walking between the massive orange rock..." (c) Frank Enz

 
 
8b by Muriel Sarkany (37)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany, one of the best competition climbers of all time, has done Abregenief, 8b and Jungle slayer, 8a+ in St Léger. "Be careful with the bees at the middle of the route, be quite and don't wash your hair with flower product. I've been bite and I had to go down very quickly to escape her sisters ;-)

I began climbing at 16 year old and 1 year later I was starting competitions. I found a lot of pleasure doing that, I won all the titles (world champion, European champion...). And now, I decided to stop competitions and just take pleasure in rocks ;-)"

 
 
First 8A+ by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Leslie-Wujastyk has done her first 8A+, Mind Matters in Guanella Pass after previously having done 14 8A's. Here is Minas website and the 8A+ video. In the last Boulder WC in Vail she was #20 and her best WC result is #10.

 
 
8b by Johan Luhr (51)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJohan Luhr who has put up 1 300 routes mainly around Stockholm, has done Kristallbandet, 8b in Svarttjärn. The 51 year old and father of three kids has been featured in a swedish magazine for being one of the most well trained guys in Sweden.

 
 
8B+ by Tamás Zupán  Facebook
 

Tamás Zupán has done his first 8B+, Memento in Silvretta."Best ever! Hard first move and crazy jump!" Based on Tamás extreme progress the last few years we will most probably soon see an 8C!

The classical dyno from a micro edge was set up by pioneer Bernd Zangerl in 2005 as an 8C+ and here he discusses progress and inflation in bouldering. One reason for the inflation was that the personal grading was very rare some years ago and instead the grades were "confirmed" means Bernd.

 
 
8b again by Tito Claudio Traversa (11)  Facebook
 

Tito Claudio Traversa has climbed Parsifal 2000 at the Tetto di Sarre. This was his eighth 8b. Tito did his first 8b+ when he was 10 years old.

 
 
9a FA by Silvio Reffo  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSilvio Reffo, after having done five 8c+s, has climbed his first 9a, the FA of L'attimo in Covolo. The 22 year old has had a nice steady progress for the last four years and he is now #14 in the ranking game. (c) Giovanna De Vicari

 
 
9a by Mateusz Haladaj  Facebook
 

Mateusz Haladaj has done Direct into your Fabelita, 9a in Santa Linya. "After having taken an enormous fall on the last move of Open Your Mind and crushed my ankle i needed to recover for 2months. Still can't walk properly, but decided to climb this one, as it's one of the best lines in the cave. Probably my hardest so far, so pumpy to the top, still feels very hard at the bottom."

 
 
8c by Sasha Digiulian (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian has added another 8c to her scorecard, Pata Negra in Rodellar. "Yay, conquer :) difficult for me- many long moves. Had to pounce!!" During the last 12 months, Sasha has done six routes equally spread out between 8c and 9a.

The next event for the 19 year old is Balearic Master in Mallorca in two days. Her first WC in 2012 is in Chamonix as a preperation for the world championship. In 2011, she was the overall champion after having been #2 in boulder and #8 in Lead where she had the same score as the runner up in the final. (c) Chris Noble

 
 
8A (7C+) by Puccio and Coxsey  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey and Alex Puccio have done Unshackled sit, 8A (7C+)in Mt Evans. In the last Boulder World Cup in Vail, Shauna was #2 and Alex #5 and overall before the last comp they are also #2 and #5. (c) David Mason

 
 
8c+ FA again by Piotr Schab (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has done his second 8c+ FA, Batalion Skala in Pochylec. In the 8a junior ranking game, the 15 year old is #3 and last year he was #12 in the Euro Youth Cup. (c) Elias Holzknecht

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