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The Angie 8b story just gets more amazing 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson who had a personal best of 6c+ in 2012 and before her trip to RRG, it was 7c. Now, being 9 years old, she has done Swingline becoming the youngest ever to have done an 8b.

The amazing thing is that her parents do not climb at all and that she does not have a coach. "Usually she will train herself about 1 hour, three days a week and then just climbs outdoors usually every weekend for a couple of hours", says her mother Claudia who also helped us out with the interview below.

"She is extremely self-motivated and she has to work every climb from the ground up. She never top ropes anything and completely works out her own beta and mostly picks what she wants to climb."

Since u do all ur own training, what would u do differently to prepare for climbing at RRG?
I knew I had to have a lot of endurance so I just picked a climb and did laps on it but now I know that is not enough. I should have picked a long route of moderate grade and climbed it slowly over and over again until I got so pumped that I didn't think I could climb any more and then jump on a harder climb and send it.

What do u like doing when ur not climbing?
I love playing basketball with my best friend Josie and just really acting silly :)

What r ur barriers when u climb?
Well most people think that it would be my height but most of the time if u look hard enough u can always find something to use. It may be tiny but if it is there it is possible. It's just weather ur strong enough to use it, that's what u have to work on :) Facebook

 
 
Running can be counterproductive  (27)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAs running means that an increased proportion of your around 5 litres of blood circulates in your leg, it can be counterproductive both for warming up your forearms and for it's recovery. Clearly running is good for your heart in order to fight big overhangs but then it should be done in short intervals. Long distance running will just build up your capillary bed in your legs learning your blood circulation to redirect it from your forearms. The worst warming up is done, running or cycling, to your gym getting cold finger tips as you instead of opening up your capillaries, you close them learning your blood to avoid the forearms.

Here are some more detailed thoughts and explinations from Dr 8a, Björn Alber, MSc Training physiology and one of the best kayaker in the world during the 80'ies.

All gyms and top climbers should have a kranking machine or a rower. This would make most us get better endurance. Facebook

 
 
Honnold and Wright- The Sufferfest 
 

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Add climbs via your mobile  (1)
 

Several climbers have asked us to create a simple mode for adding routes more quickly also using your mobile. Just click "Add mobile" and you will save a lot of time and possible money for adding your ascents directly by the crag. Facebook

 
 
Pedro Navas climbing 'Yerba Mala', 8c in El Montgó 
 

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Lost in North America: Ep. 6 - Viva Las Climbing in Red Rocks 
 

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Alpen en Bloc incl Magic Woods 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFlorian Wenter and Lorenz Delago have updates their topo for Magic Woods which also includes 12 other areas in the Alps. It includes 450 but not everything is translated to english. Almost all boulders are presented with a picture and there is not so many variations listed.

"Variants I have not considered sometimes because otherwise it will quickly become confusing and beautiful lines are decomposed. The boulder should be, if possible, logical lines. But it does not mean that variants are bad, everyone should climb like and what makes fun.

How big proportion of the 8A's and harder have you down graded in the new topo? In some few cases it seems like the 8a community actually think the grade is lower compared to what you have suggested.
The difficult boulder which were repeated several times and now are considered generally to be easier, were downgraded. Where it is not certain, the old rating have been left. I rather go treat carefully with downgrading ... is often a bit of a touchy subject ... so I rather let the orginal rating ..."

Buy it here for 35 Euro Facebook

 
 
Valence WC with Ondra and Kim 
 

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Edu Marín climbing with his dad 
 

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Nice video from Javier Meng 
 

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Paige Claassen 8C Slab - Italy  (4)
 

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Keep the hand away from the GriGri  (35)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEvery year, climbers get injured as a too short rope goes out of the GriGri. A knot is of course the best thing but as it is easily forgotten, you should also always keep your arm as low as possible down by your tigh. This will give you an alarm that the rope is at it's end and serious accidents can be avoided. Facebook

 
 
Boulders de Campanha 
 

Boulders da Campanha - MG from Pataca on Vimeo.

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RAW - 50 minutes of bouldering in the alps - The Full Movie 
 

RAW - 50 minutes of bouldering in the alps from bloc beast films on Vimeo.

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Västervik Bouldering 
 

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New All Time High - Unique Visitors & New Members 
 

Last week, we saw a record number of unique visitors with 35 874 at the global page and 40 500 including all country specific pages. Also for new members, we saw a new record with 172 new accounts being created. In total, 51 000 members have recorded 2.8 million ascents that will help you to find the best climbs around the globe. The countries that are growing the fastest when it comes to traffic are Italy, Spain, USA and Germany. Facebook

 
 
Daniel Woods comments his hardest 8C, out of 19 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has done The Ice Knife sitstart which he thinks is his hardest 8C out of 19. The first one he did five years ago, when he was 18 years old and since than, he has most of the time been the 8a ranking game leader.

"The epic is finally over! 13 days of battling with conditions and falling off of every move (including the final v2 move), implanted doubt in my mind if this thing was going to go down this year. Dave put up the stand 2 years ago and it has settled at hard 8B+. The sit adds in a powerful and awkward 4 move 8A+ into the 8B+ with no rest.

The style of this boulder is different than anything I have climbed on. The holds require good friction and the movement is off balance and weird. It is such a beautiful boulder and now the full line is complete! This is my hardest boulder that I have done within my style of climbing. Numbers are so subjective, so for someone else, this could not be so hard. I know it is my personal best and will leave it at that."
Great video of the stand. (c) Beau Kahler

Having discussed the 8C+ grade with Daniel several times it is like he thinks the grade itself is not so important and furthermore, there is the old story with the grade inflation. Top guys like Daniel, has already established themselves so there is no need to further appoint that. Already now, some of his boulders have already been subject to get into the 8C+ territory and sure we must be, at least, very close now. Well done keep'em coming. Facebook

 
 
Can windmill arm rotation improve endurance and injuries?  (16)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt is a well known fact that you will get better endurance through an increased forearm capillary bed, which will improve the potential blood circulation. The capillary bed grows by creating as much forearm blood circulation as possible without getting even a mild pump.

In theory, rotating your arms like a windmill, using G-power to maximally fill up your capillary bed could, possibly, also have a positive impact on your blood circulation and endurance. Windmill arm rotation might work with the same concept that it is much easier to blow up a balloon the second time. Here are 4 potential positive situations that can be discussed and further tested as it is simply just an idea.

1. Just before you start to climb, windmill moves might stretch your capillary balloon so it is prepared for maximal blood circulation.

2. Windmill moves in the second part of your recovery period in between your climbs, might cut some minutes from your resting period.

3. During longer climbing breaks when your capillary bed shrinks, windmill moves might keep it more continuous. It should be noted that you need to be warmed up in order to be able to fill up blood in your forearms.

4. Injuries are healed by blood circulation and windmill rotation can increase it speeding up the recovery.

Once more, this is simply an idea that practically might not have an impact. Nevertheless, I have talked to doctors, famous trainers and climbers that find the ideas interesting. Please try it out and share your feedback. Facebook

 
 
Swedes in Albarracin 
 

Bouldering in Albarracin 2013 from Axel Hultqvist on Vimeo.

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Hukkataival in Grampians #2 
 

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Cold fingers - Put a heated stone in your chalk bag 
 

Gabriele Moroni gives a practical tip in his last blog that could help warming up the fingers during the winter. Gabri used it successfully to do The Elder Statesman 9a.

"It was pretty cold and windy so to avoid numb fingers during the climb I heated a little stone with a camping stove and put it in my chalk bag. Facebook

 
 
Jose Luis Palao 'Primo' climbing 'Palestina', 9a in Cuenca 
 

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Salento Climbing Festival 
 

SALENTO from RAGNI DI LECCO on Vimeo.

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Urko Carmona. Live your Dreams.  (4)
 

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TNF Cinder 40 
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"It is unbreakable" is the first thing James Pearson said describing TNF Cinder 40 which he and his team have been part of develloping. They have tested it for one year doing expeditions around the globe and hauling it up on big walls and "still it almost looks as new.

The basic ideas were that it should stand stand on it own for easy loading and that the opening shoulöd be as wide as possible they made it with a role-top closure. It has a removable hipbelt with a metal hardware which will not break like plastic when you stand on it. The rope can be stowable at the top.

Just luckily you can squeeze it down into the Ryan Air luggage regulation box, As the volume is 40 litres, this just might be another unique feature that will guarantee big sales also from the sport climber. It weighs 1.5 kilos so you probably never will need to check and pay costly for any luggage if you can make your partner take eiter the rope or the gear. Of course this means you do not need to be standing in the queue, just go to the gate 30 min before boarding. Video presentation Facebook

 
 
RAW - 50 minutes of bouldering in the alps 
 

RAW - 50 minutes of bouldering in the alps from bloc beast films on Vimeo.

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Jain Kim wins in Valance in a great show  (11)
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Jain Kim KOR 47
2. Mina Markovic SLO 45+
3. Momoka Oda JPN 44, 4. Dinara Fakhritdinova 41, 5. Anak Verhoeven 36
Complete results

Also the female final was a nice show with a challenging route and once again it was a battle between Jain and Mina. Counting six out of seven events, the worst result for both of them are #2. Facebook

 
 
Adam Ondra superior in Valence Lead WC  (43)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn his first World Cup for over two years, Adam Ondra, the best rock climber in the world, took an amazing victory in his normal style not hesitating and just climbing very fast as always. Four guys had identical result so in case of equal result also in the final, time would have count but where the other struggled, the phenomenal 20 year old just kept going with ease. The good news for the circuit is that Adam will do the next WC in Kranj as well as all events in 2014.

Also Sean McColl was climbing much faster than the others and he must have been very satiesfied #2 as he reported on Facebook before the final, "Food poisoning - we meet again...Ate something bad yesterday afternoon, spend the whole night expunging stuff from my body... not fun. Video from the final - Ondra climb 41.00.

1. Adam Ondra CZE 39+
2. Sean McColl CAN 34+
3. Gauthier Supper FRA 33+, 4. Romain Desgranges 30, 5. Jakob Schubert 30
Complete results Facebook

 
 
Valence World Cup with Adam Ondra  (10)
 

Watch the Valence Lead World Cup Live where Adam Ondra makes a very interesting comback.
In the qualifications, 12 male including Adam Ondra flashed both routes. Among the female we saw three double flashes which is a new strong trend in the Lead World Cup. The dilemma with equal results is of course that if we also see it in the semifinal, the finalists know that they have to climb as fast as possible in the final as time is the tie-breaker for equal results.
Saturday: 12.30 Semifinal & 20.00 Male and Female Facebook

 
 
Pyssel in Västervik 
 

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Megos FA Wheelchair 9a+  (1)
 

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The Beautiful North - Norway 
 

Teaser Bouldering Norway - The Beautiful North from Vertical-Axis on Vimeo.

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Costa Rica Climbing 
 

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Daniel Woods portrait 
 

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Removable bolt - Quicker ground up bolting 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbtech has developed a removeable bolt, basically a Friend that goes in some 4 cm deep into a bolt hole, which make it quicker and easier to bolt from the ground. The bolter can use them to further position themselves in steep roof sections of routes to continue upwards in a ground-up fashion. Once you have put in a normal bolt you can take out the removable bolt and proceed to the next placement."

The price is USD 60 and it needs a 1/2 bit which is 12.7 mm but also a 13 mm Euro bit is OK.

The most common way to bolt ground up is to use 6 or 8 mm bolts in between placements so the removable bolt will save leaving unused hardware in the rock and some money. Check Video 1 and Video 2

Overall, the steeper and bigger overhang you are going to bolt, even going from above, and especially for granite, the greater the removable bolt it. Give some removables to Adam Ondra when he is going for an even bigger Flatanger cave and he will give you the 9c+ smile, just like Chris Sharma has already done. Facebook

 
 
Karamba by Markus Jung 
 

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New Grampians bouldering 
 

New Grampians Bouldering (2009-2012) from Dave Kellermann on Vimeo.

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Wave glue in bolt performs also without glue 
 

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Gimme Kraft review and author message  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe trainers of Alexander Megos, Patrick Matros and Ludwig "Dicki" Korb have together with Hannes Huch, written the new concept training book Gimme Kraft (Power) that also includes a DVD with a great Wolfgang Güllich interview. Here is a trailor video.

The book with 226 pages in both english and german presents basically some 80 different exercises out of which half are climbing related, using ten famous climbers who also give their tips. The focus is to get stronger in your body and in fact only a couple of exercises relate to maximum finger power training.

It is like the whole book want to grab and shake all the gym rats focusing on finger power and inspire them with some odd training we seldom have seen before in climbing. In the same new thinking concept, periodization is not even discussed.

The book is very user friendly and you can more or less randomly open it anywhere and get very inspired. It is actually quite extreme and you just wonder which effect such such training would have had on all climbers saying they never do any complementary training. Personally, I have always said that finger training is most important but of course if you have pushed you to the limit there, there are many more ways to get stronger.

Here are an explenation from Patrick Matros for the new concept, which ends with this wise message.
"With athletes like Alexander we drive a middle course because periodization is good to prevent performance barriers at a high level but when you are traveling pretty much you have to be flexible.

Concerning training for climbing and bouldering for the average but still performance-orientated climber we think they should not think so much about perfect periodized training plans but should focus more on a training done in a healthy, motivated and not too complicated way and exactly that should be the message of our book!"


The message from Alexander Megos himself sums up what he learnt from his trainer and their great message. "I never climbed at my limit until recently and that was maybe the reason why I could keep my high motivation and never dropped out. Facebook

 
 
Barbara Raudner - Pura Vida 
 

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R & I checks out the 8a scorecard game 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Parker from Rock & Ice has started to use the 8a scorecard and is currently #1 018 in the ranking game :-). In the article The best climber in the world is the one with the most points he has gleaned some ironic beta that he is willing to share.

I think it is great that he mentions James Webb, #2 in the ranking game, as a Southern humble pie, giving some example why he does not take the game so seriously. "Respect is hard earned in the points game, but some climbers (that are obviously way too strong for their own good and have points to burn) gain the admiration of others by showing how humble and honest they are. "

Most of the 8a top climbers are doing the same thing. Climbing is real - Points just for fun :) Facebook

 
 
Portland Boulder Rally Highlights - 325 competitors 
 

Portland Boulder Rally Highlights from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.

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Pearson and Ciavaldini adventure in Turkey  (1)
 

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Wave bolt 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimb Tech Gear has solved the big problem with glue-in bolts with their Wave bolt. Its waves act like a piton in the bolt hole while the epoxy sets, making the process of bolting with glue-in on overhung routes much quicker. Epoxy bolts can sometimes move before glue hardening, exposing the bolt shaft and dramatically decreasing the strength of the anchor. One down side of this epoxy anchor is that it is impossible to remove out, due to the wave shape, after it's life span, which normally should be several times longer than a normal stainless steal bolt, according to Chris Vinson, Marketing Manager.

"The passivation process is a nice touch because it further cleans the bolt making it even more resistant to all types of corrosion, including SCC and pitting. A bolt being only as good as its weakest part, this is a good thing!"

Another down side for the euro market is that the Wave bolt is 12.7 mm as this is the USA standard for 1/2 bits but this you can order separately from Climb Tech Gear. Check the mazing video also showing that glue, theretically, is not needed. Facebook

 
 
Columnvert saves money and your neck 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureColumnvert has produced a Euro 22 saver for your neck as an alternative to the CU Glaces at Euro 98. After having tried both I must say the Columnvert actually works pretty good saving your neck and you do not have the problem of putting the glaces away. Sometimes it can also be nice to have a small pillow to the crag or when sleeping in the refugio.

However, for a cheaper product there are often some disadvantages and for me the getting dirty thing from your transpiration and chalk are problematic. Sure it can be washed and it comes with a zipper but you will have to do it often. Another problem is that it is not super easy to put on, especially if your partner is of a different size, once you realize half way up that you need it.

Overall it is a great innovation and if you can not afford the CU glaces, which overall are much better, this is a nice neck saver. Do you want to go low budget, you can always go for the inflatable airplane pillows but in reality they are not as good. Facebook

 
 
Hukkataival in Grampians  (1)
 

Part I: BD athlete Nalle Hukkataival bouldering in Australia's Grampians from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

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Eskalar Night Climbing 2 
 

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Steve McClure presents Malham Cove 
 

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Euro Roof Low 8B by Carlo Traversi 
 

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8c (b+) by Helena Alemán 
 

Helena Alemán has done T1 full equipe, 8c (b+) in Oliana. Last year Helena did four 8c. There are now some 40 female who have done 8c but only a handfull have done 8c+ out of which three have done 9a. Facebook

 
 
8A by Jill Church 
 

Jill Church has done Beefy Gecko, 8A in Bishop. "First 8A so probably soft, but felt hard to me. Three heel hooks, two toe hooks and a knee bar." Facebook

 
 
David Lama makes history again  (11)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Lama reports that he has done Feuertaufe, 8b in Lofer. "It offers great climbing in best wall and who’s at this level deffo has to try the route. And here’s a rating-suggestion from Hansjörg Auer and me: 7a+, 8b, 7c+, 6b, 7a, 7c+, 8a (Original: 7c, 8b+, 8a+, 6b, 7b+, 8a+, 8a+).

Two weeks ago David put up a six pitcher above Cevio/Ticino including two 8b+ and two 8a+ which Pesche Wüthrich had bolted. David is one of the most gifted climber equally impressive in all disciplines. In 2006, being 16 years old, he was second in his World Cup debut. The next event he won and then he won the European Championship and in between he won his Boulder WC debut. © Rainer Eder Facebook

 
 
8B with broken foot by Parsons  (28)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons broke his foot as he kicked the car who drove away after crushing into his van. A few days later he drove back to UK from Fontainebleau and within a week he did Ken Roof, 8B in Peak District.

"It was a painful one due to my foot being broken. It took me a long time to get my shoe on. Alex had to support the bones on top of my foot as I eventually pulled my shoe on. The problem also involves a toe hook which I could not really use properly due to the pain." (c) Courtney Sanders Facebook

 
 
8B+ by Francesco Carta 
 

Franscesco Carta has after two days done Christian Core's Gandalf il grigio, 8B+ in Varaze. Andrea Gennari Daneri Editor in chief of Pareti: "This guy's got the biggest potential ever seen in our country, kinda like a new Christian Core. Never seen anywone crimping so hard, so far."Youtube video Facebook

 
 
9a+ FA by Luis Alfonso Felix (35) *Updated 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLuis Alfonso Félix has done his first 9a+ with the FA of the 38 meters, 80 movements and 14 bolts, Black Block in Cuenca, after 1.5 years of projecting. The route deconstruction is: "A first part of five bolts weighting 8c+ by itself, followed by a transition zone of just one bolt with a small rest. Then, a power endurance section which brings you to the middle of the route where the 8A+ crux is." (Luis got to skip this part pulling a fixed rope during his early attempts). "After that it gets a little bit easier, being just an 8b+ to the top with a last vertical and technical part with small features for both hands and feet graded 7C Fb."

When Luis was 18 he lost half his index finger when he was climbing 7c. He has previoulsy done several 8c+ and 9a's. Spanish 8a interview with more pics by Javi Pec. Facebook

 
 
9a FA by Enzo Oddo  (3)
 

Enzo Oddo blogs about having done the FA of Salida del sol, 9a in Cantobre which was the Ultimate route at Petzl Roc Trip in 2004. Facebook

 
 
9a and 8c+'s by Jorg Verhoeven  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJorg Verhoeven reports from his trip to Red River Gorge where he did Pure Imagination, 9a and two 8c+'s. Further more, "25 routes 5.13 (7c+ to 8b) most on sight or flash. So freaking good to climb in the reds…" (c) Roman v.d. Werf

In 2008, Jorg won the Lead World Cup. This year he has participated in four events making the finals in all. Overall, he has made the podium in 23 events. Facebook

 
 
8A+ by Liam Vance (15) 
 

Liam Vance has done his second 8A+, Mandala in Bishop. "Stunning line. Dream come true! First go of the day." His first 8A+ he did when he was 14 years old. Facebook

 
 
8A by Katja Vidmar  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatja Vidmar has done her second 8A, Intensive in Èrnotièe. "Super good weekend. I got wings after a good session in my project yesterday. So happy!!! Petting is next!"

Last year her personal best was 7C. In 2008, Katja was #5 in the Boulder World Cup and this year she was #4 in the only event she entered.

Katja's sister is Maja Vidmar who has been one of the leading females in the Lead World Cup as well as outdoors the last years. Facebook

 
 
8c+/9a by Gabri Moroni  (1)
 

Gabriele Moroni has done the second ascent by Adam Ondra's Masoniamoci, 8c+ in Masone.

Gabriele Moroni - Masoniamoci 8c+/9a from Granze on Vimeo.

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8a OS by Jakob Heber Norum (15) 
 

Jakob Heber Norum has onsighted his first 8a, Chiquita in Misja Pec. Two days later he was #5 in the Euro Youth Cup in Kranj and this was also his result overall. Facebook

 
 
9a by Daniel Jung  (2)
 

Daniel Jung reports that he did Inga, 9a in Gorges du Loup in October. Facebook

 
 
7th 8A by David Kompatscher (18) 
 

David Kompatscher has done seven 8A boulders during the last ten weeks. His personal best being 17 years old was 7B! Facebook

 
 
Progress by Ulrike Bromberger (42) 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUlrike Bromberger (42) who started climbing in 1991 is climbing better than ever as she the last two months have done two 8a's and three 7c+'. The last eight years she has made nice progress climbing some three times a week.

"I do not have a recipe, but in fact, I still see progress in my climbing career. I am happy. Let's wait an see if this was the summit. Keep going, have fun." Facebook

 
 
8B+ (C) and much more by Anthony Gullsten (19) 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnthony Gullsten has added ten boulders 8A and harder including Bernd Zangerl's Anam Cara in Silvretta for which he gives a personal grade of 8B+.

"Amazing day! It was minus degrees outside so the friction was perfect. Did the moves pretty fast and then sent on my fourth go from the beginning. Cool movement and sequence but a bit sharp."

The 19 year old fin has had a very strong progress the latest years and during the last 12 months he has done 73 boulders 8A and harder. He is 37 in the 8a game but without all his personal gradings, he would have been #3. Andy was #14 in the Boulder World Champion having done his preperation in Rocklands. Interview is coming up. Facebook

 
 
8a+ MP flash by Roland Hemetzberger 
 

Roland Hemetzberger has flashed the 170m De Hoabuchane, 8a+ in Lofer Alm. Fabian Hagenauer (17) gave all the valuable beta sothe most difficult part was actually walking down in the forest, 2.5 h instead of 0.5 h, as they forgot their headlamps. More info at their blog. Facebook

 
 
8b+ MP by Riccardo Scarian 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRiccardo Scarian (43) established last month Shakti which is 200m 8b+ on Eagles Peak. "It is, put simply, a jewel, up splendid rock, offering climbing with varied from steep overhang to technical slabs, above an impressive voice in a wild yet at the same time relaxing environment."
Full story

Riccardo born 1968 has previously put up several multi pitches and he is kind of a late bloomer having done many 8c+ and harder almost 40 years old. (c) Giampaolo Corona Facebook

 
 
8A by Brooke Raboutou (10) and other Team ABC Kids  (4)
 

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou has been with her Team ABC Kids in Hueco Tanks. Brooke Raboutou (10) who did her first 8b route being 9 year old has done her first 8A, Une Pointe de Bleau dans un Hueco. Big brother Shawn (13) did it second go and Megan Mascarenas (14) flashed it.

Click and scroll down to see an article about the amazing ABC Kids. Read about their Philosophy and Objectives etc. Facebook

 
 
8b Bigwall by Sonnie Trotter 
 

Planetmountain reports that Sonnie Trotter has done the first repeat of Leo Holding's 500m The Prophet, 8bR in Yosemite. Sonnie comments the three day ascent.

"I think it was the most savage and satisfying rock climb of my life. One of the hardest routes I have ever done. My first El Cap route ever. And I’m glad it’s over." Facebook

 
 
Five 8B's by Robin Mjelle 
 

Robin Mjelle has added five 8B's to his impressive list of hard boulders in Switzerland. In total he has done 17 8B boulders so the norwegian should be close to move into the 8B+ region. Streppenwolf video Facebook

 
 
9a by Jakob Schubert 
 

Jakob Schubert did also take the one hour drive down to Misja Pec where he did Martin Krpan, 9a. "Very soft for it's grade. 4th try this day, but tried it 2 years ago... nice after after party in misja pec! :)"

The next weekend the competition season ends in Barcelona and then the 20 year old will try some of the harder routes around Lleida. In April he did Papichulo, 9a+ in Oliana. Facebook

 
 
8b by Hannah Midtbø  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHannah Midtbø has done her fourth 8b in 2011, Santa Linya in Santa Linya.

"Classic route! A crux on it's own to clip the anchor. Went through the moves a few times, then did it second redpoint attempt."

In 2008, being 18 year old, Hannah was #3 in the Euro Boulder Championship. Last year, she did two 8A's. In the game, Hannah is #13.

Magnus Midtbø who has done several 9a - 9b and who was #4 in the world champion this year, is Hannah's two year older brother. Facebook

 
 
8b+ OS revenge for Ramonet and Edu 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque was only #11 in Kranj as he was timed out in the semi and Edu Marin was #17.

Instead of the finals on Sunday they drove down to Misja Pec where they both onsighted Millenium, 8b+ which they both said was pretty easy.

In 2009, Edu onsighted three 8c's and in 2006, he won a Lead WC. The double world champion, Ramonet has onsighted an 8c+ this year. (c) Heiko Wilhelm Facebook

 
 
8B+ by Ondøej Nevìlík 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOndøej Nevìlík has done Toni Lamprecht's classic The Dagger, 8B+ in Cresciano which Dave Graham added a sit start to in 2005, creating The Story of Two worlds, 8C.

"A dream comes true! In my head ever since I saw it 4years ago. My style, feet first all the way... only 4 full climbing days so no rest, 4 days on: 3 days on The Dagger and last day a 7C OS, 8A+ (Video), 8A with no skin, wish could stay longer, now back to reality:(" (c) Ramil Schneider Facebook

 
 
9a+ by Adam Taylor  (1)
 

DPM reports that Adam Taylor has done the first ascent of Southern Smoke direct, 9a+ in Red River Gorge. The direct version adds an 8B boulder start to the 8c+ route. Adam who previously has established one 8c+, that got upgraded to 9a, has worked the 9a+ route for two years. Some days ago, he finished with 60 pull-ups after having done the 8c+ version. Facebook

 
 
4th 8a+ by Philipp Gaßner (11) 
 

Philipp Gaßner (10) has done his fourth 8a+ in Frankenjura, SMS. Video of doing 8a+ being 10 years old. Facebook

 
 
8A by Stefanie Mathar again 
 

Stefanie Mathar has done her second 8A, Beefy Gecko in Bishop. Last year she did her first 7C (+) and this year she has already done six 7C+ and two 8A's putting her as #7 in the Game. Facebook

 
 
Two 8c+ by Ben Spannuth in USA 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBen Spannuth who had a personal best of 8b+ before he went to Spain in august, where he stepped up to 9a, has done two 8c+ in Red River Gorge.

He graduated in May and trained harder than ever during the summer which seems to have paid of reaching a new level. The 8c+' he did within 45 minutes and he has also onsighted two 8a+ etc putting him as #7 in the Game. Facebook

 
 
Gu is on fire  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has added Sur le fil, 8B+ in Switz making it 17 boulders 8B and harder during the last two months. "Again second Ascent of a Fred Nicole Masterpiece. This boulders need to be tried more they are amazing, same quality than in Ticino!!!"

Here Gu comments his extreme progress,...I felt that I have my body under control at a new level...(c) Baboonmaster.com Facebook

 
 
8B FA by Stefan Rasmussen (40)  (6)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Rasmussen the man behind almost all hard core bouldering around Västervik has opened Gypsy heart, 8B.

"I took a chance, drove one hour and it turned out to be perfect conditions with four degrees. Many youngsters opt for warmer conditions so I mainly climb alone. I have another 20 hard boulders in the area for this winter season." Video (c) Dominik Hadwiger Facebook

 
 
8A by Mirko Caballero (10)  (11)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero has had a great trip to Hueco Tanks where he among other things did his first 8A, Schwerer Gustov. "I love bouldering, but started to rope climb as well in 2011. I train in the Gym, but just to get strong. My passion is climbing outdoors meeting new people and climbing with them. Facebook

 
 
8C by Sean McColl before Lead WC  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSean McColl who was second in the last Lead WC has prepared for the Kranj WC this weekend only by bouldering in Switzerland. Yesterday he did Big Paw, 8C in Chironico to his long list the last week.

"This is my hardest boulder to date and the line is majestic! I found the the boulder fit me very well, although the short person beta was very hard. I had great conditions and I'm in the best shape of my life. A very successful Switzerland bouldering trip!

I have a rest day today, then tomorrow I'll try to finish "The Dagger", then maybe one more day of climbing, or maybe two rest days before the WC." Facebook

 
 
9a FA by Manu Romain 
 

Manu Romain reports that he has done the FA of a 9a which is a link-up of a 8c+, 8a and 8b on La Roche de Rame. In the 2011 Lead WC, Manu is #4 and the lasts years he was, #7 and #6. Since 2009, his worst result of 22 WC's was #12" Facebook

 
 
8A+ and 8A by Conny Matthes 
 

Conny Matthes has had a great day in Frankenjura having done Rothauttraverse, 8A+ and Billiardtraverse, 8A. Facebook

 
 
Chelsea Rude blogs Journey vs Result 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChelsea Rude who earlier this year was #17 and #11 in a Boulder and Lead WC in USA, has written a nice blog about the mental journey she took to do Ixeia, 8b+ in Rodellar which 8a reported some weeks ago.

"I sat and looked at the scenery, I paid attention to the birds flying in the sky, how the sun somehow always managed to make everything in Spain look orange, all the rock that surrounded me, and I also listened to all of the other people in the area climbing a’muerte. I realized that at that moment I couldn’t be in a better location or position." Facebook

 
 
8B+ by Sean McColl in 1.5 hours  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSean McColl, who was #2 in the last Lead WC, has changed arena and prepars for the next Lead WC by 10 days bouldering in Switzerland. "I don't think I'll lose any endurance while here as I'm only here for 2 weeks. I'll maybe gain some power and a nice break from training 4 days a week on platic!" (c) C.Loury/Planetgrimpe

During the first day he has done five classic 7C+ to 8A+ and New Base Line, 8B+. "Took me 1.5 hours on my second day after trying it for 15 minutes on the first day. I found the problem fit my style very well and I've always wanted to try it. I'm so happy that it came together so fast and thanks to Daniel, Paul and Courtney for the encouragement!" Facebook

 
 
7C+ by Isabelle Faus (18) 
 

Isabelle Faus has done Tres de las Quintas, 7C+ in Chattanooga. Facebook

 
 
Gu sends again, again and again...  (3)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has done his 14th 8B and harder the last 2 months by doing Phase 2, 8B+ in Sustenpass.

"Physical & mental warring, felt about 6 times at the last move before i stuck it. Really cold day with rain everywhere around us! Quite lucky... Swiss is having so many nice areas outside of Ticino. Many rocks left to be climbed!" Facebook

 
 
9a FA by Cedric Lachat 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNina Caprez reports that her boyfriend Cedric Lachat has done an extension to Speed in Voralpsee for which he proposes 9a. (c) Stefan Schlumpf

Speed was put up in 1995 by Beat Kammerlander as an 8c+ "but anywhere else would be graded 9a". It does not end at the top so Cedric continued up the 8b extension of Lucy to the left.

"So often he felt because his foot were slipping or other stupid things. Also it was really hard to memorize all the foot holds in this 30m line. Every hold looks kind of similar and the fact that he tried once per year, he forgot everything! that's Cedric!;-)" Facebook

 
 
9a by Felix Knaub (19) 
 

UKC reports that Felix Knaub has done the ultra classic Action Direct, 9a in Frankenjura which Wolfgang Güllich put up in 1991. Felix did his first 9a when he was 17 year old, Matador also in Frankenjura. Facebook

 
 
8B again by Guntram Jörg  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has done his ninth 8B in a month, Bourguignon in Murgtal. "Sec. Ascent, First established by Fred Nicole. Mega compression climb all the way up. One of the best, Fred was also there and told me some beta and i crushed it before it got dark, took me about half an hour but its 4 shure a hard one!" Gu comments his extreme progress lately. Facebook

 
 
New 8c, 18 pitches on Madagascar  (5)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUpdate: The news seems to be based on some misunderstanding since they actually just did the pitches up to 7c. The rest they aided. Planetmountain reports that Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur in August have established Dreams of Youth on Tsaranoro Atsimo which is a 700m, 18 pitches including one 8c and three 8b+'s. (c) Kletterzene

Last October, Adam Ondra established Mora Mora 8c 700 m and repeated a 600m 8b and a 380m 8c in the same spectacular area. Facebook

 
 
Caldwell twitter from snowy El Cap 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTommy Caldwell twitters from his El Cap 30 pitches project where he already has spent a week with his wife.

"That was a intense one today on pitch 12. First I pulled a few pitons and took big falls. Then I broke a few footholds. Five tries later I finally had the new sequence through the bottom worked out. Then I fell at the very end... Twice. Temps never got above freezing. Eight tries in all and no send. The good news is that I am feeling strong. This one just wasn't in the cards for me today." Facebook

 
 
8c+ by Dylan Barks (16) 
 

Dylan Barks has jumped two grades and done Joe Kinder's Southern smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. In the -95 ranking game he is #7. Facebook

 
 
8a+ OS by Ievgeniia Kazbekova (15)  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIevgeniia Kazbekova has onsighted Super Priapos 8a+ and Fun de Chichunne 8a at Kalymnos. In 2010, she won the Youth worlds and she did her first 8b+ being 13 years old.

Her mother Nataliya has a silver and bronze in the Boulder World Championship. Her father Serik was #2 in the Boulder WC in 1999 and in the world championship in 2005, he was #4 in bouldering and #7 in Lead. (c) Anna Piunova Gallery Facebook

 
 
Speed bouldering by Gu 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg continues his rampage in Switzerland and during three days he did five 8A+ and three 8B in Sustenpass and the amazing thing is that he did each one in less than 15 minutes.

"Probably this days have been the last possible climbing days before the snow is coming. The conditions have been perfect." (c) Martin Keller Facebook

 
 
8A+ flash by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet 
 

Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has had a good week where he first did two 8B's in Font, then he flashed La Pelle, 8A+ in Cresciano and he also was #2 in IMS Cup after Ondra but ahead of Fischhuber. Facebook

 
 
9a FA by Gabri Moroni in China  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabri Moroni has done the FA of Coup de Bambou, 9a in Getu Valley and he is #7 in the game. "Great experience trying it with the international homies Enzo,Dave,Mickey,Jon,Gé!! Sent on my last day in China!" China blog and video by Gabri.

This was the fifth 9a for the very active boulder WC climber who got the bronze in the Euro Championship being 17 year old. In 2008 he was #4 and in 2009 he was #3 in the Boulder WC. (c) Beau Kahler Facebook

 
 
8c for the 40m Century Crack roof  (16)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOne month ago Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall climbed the 40 meter Century Crack in pink point style meaning the gear was pre placed. It was aided in 2001 and then 9a climber Stevie Haston started to project it calling it Century crack and estimated it to be 9a or harder.

No grade was suggested but after they had done several of the hardest cracks in USA in the weeks that followed they suggested 8c. From Wideboyz.blogspot.com, ""As many people know, Pete and I spent 2 years slogging our guts out in a crack cellar underneath my house.

We trained so specifically for Century Crack – we had an almost exact replica of the whole route and we trained....and trained.... and trained.... We did over 17,000ft of Century Crack climbing in 2 years, which equates to having already climbed it 42 times each!" Facebook

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