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Hirayama (45) does E9 6c/8a+ R  (4) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureYuji Hirayama is together with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini climbing hard trad routes in Pembroke. Yuji has done The Big Issue E9 6c/8a+ R in Pembroke, "Placing all the gear on lead." The E-scale combines the difficulty and the danger of a route and it goes to E11. The "R" in the French scale stands for Risk for injuries and it goes to X = death potential.

The 45-year-old has been setting new standards in all climbing disciplines around the world for almost 30 years. In 2000 he won the Lead World Cup overall and at the same time he was one of the leading onsight climbers in the world. He has also done several famous speed ascent on El Cap and last year he put up a three pitch 8b which tops out at 4 025 m on Kinabalu.

Planet Mountain has the full report including a E9 flash by James and a E8 by Caroline etc

Female podium comparison by Udo  Facebook

Michael Pickwell from Boreal introducing the 'Satori' in Friedrichshafen 2014  Facebook

Adidas Rockstar 2014  Facebook

adidas Rockstars 2014 - Teaser - Porsche Arena Stuttgart from world of freesports on Vimeo.

St Léger developers - Don't buy Rockfax etc topos  (33) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureThe equipping team of St Léger etc, has put up signs where they say that they get money for euipment when you buy the local topo for Ventoux.

"That is why we thank you for buying it. Please do not use the others, Edition Rockfax in particular (inegral topo of our topo), Rockpunkt Mistral, Edisud... who benefit from our work with purely menrcantile purposes, and no payment in return for the maintenance or development of the sites."

What do you think? The 8a thinking is that we see our Left-Right Topos as a handy compliment once you have bought a real topo. We also recommend to buy topos which support local maintenance and development. We do beliеve that the best way for crags to get popular, which will increase the sales of the local topos, is to update the 8a database, so that the info will be spread world wide.

Lead World Champion 2014?  Facebook

European Youth Championship - Bouldering  (5) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAustria and Slovenia had the best result in the European Youth Championship in Bouldering. It is quite remarkable that Slovenia with just 2 million inhabitants continues to produce high class climbers. During the qualification several coaches were not happy as the boulders were set to tight. (c) Eddie Fowke
95: David Firnenburg GER, see the picture - Jessica Pilz AUT
97: Baptiste Ometz SUI - Franziska Sterrer AUT
99: Matic Kotar SLO - Janja Garnbret SLO
Complete results


KASAGIYAMA COLLECTION from Imashi Hashimoto on Vimeo.

8B by Alex Puccio again  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio, who got the silver in the World Championship last month, has done Freaks of the industry 8B in RMNP. "Really nice climb. Power Endurance for sure! Second day trying it. :)"

This was her fifth 8B and harder just during the last nine weeks which is a new standard for female bouldering. Alex has been the 8a ranking leader for six straight years and she is now #31 among the guys. (c) Joel Zerr

Domen Skofic does Underground 9a  Facebook

Valley Uprising Official Trailer  Facebook

Fischhuber with a harness in India  Facebook

Czech boulder Championship 2014  Facebook  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSmartTopo gives you topos for Frankenjura, Margalef and Siurana including 4 500 routes that you can down load in your Android for Euro 8. iOS wersion will be ready in december.

In the pipeline are topos for Kalymnos, Sperlonga, Arco, Chateauvert , La Turbie (Monaco), Buoux, Zillertal and many others. The project is co-financed by the European Union under the Innovative Economy Programme.

More pics on their Facebook page.

Best ever female climber - Draft  Facebook

Who do you think is the best female climber ever including competitions, routes and boulders? Here is a suggestion of the Top-10. Please give your opinions to update the list.

1. Angela Eiter AUT
2. Josune Bereziartu ESP
3. Muriel Sarkany BEL
4. Lynn Hill USA
5. Sasha Digiulian USA

6. Anna Stöhr AUT
7. Charlotte Durif FRA
8. Robin Erbesfield USA
9. Mina Markovic SLO
0. Nina Caprez SUI

What would be your dream experience?  Facebook

Mar Álvarez sending 'Era Vella', 9a  Facebook

Jimmy Webb Euro trip part #2  (1) Facebook

Ondra makes the FA of Illusionist 9a in Flatanger  Facebook

Adam Ondra - Illusionost 9a from BERNARTWOOD on Vimeo.

Ondra athlete of August by World Games Association  Facebook

The International World Games Association has announced Adam Ondra as the athlete of August.

"Adam Ondra is a phenomenon: both, in competition climbing on artificial holds and outdoors on real rock. In 2014, as he began university, Ondra decided to focus on competition climbing, after two years of travelling the world climbing on real rock.

Teaser for Night Session in Cresciano 4/10  Facebook

The CWIF 2014 - Highlights Film  Facebook

The CWIF 2014 - Highlights Film from The Climbing Works on Vimeo.

In the long run, Ondra might focus on Big Walls  (2) Facebook

D Firnenburg 4 * 8B in Font  Facebook

Alfonso Arce trying 'First Round, First Minute', 9b  Facebook

WC winnerJan Hojer portrait  Facebook

KINETIC from Vast Motion Pictures on Vimeo.

180 meters MP for Sir Chris Bonington (80)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanetMountain has a great story where Sir Chris Bonington climbs the Old Man of Hoy for his 80th birthday together with Leo Houlding. Bonington made the FA in 1966 and is still going strong. (c) Berghaus

Speed Multi-Pitch climbing in Siberia  Facebook

Most ground breaking ascents  Facebook

Wich are the most ground breaking ascents in the history of sport climbing? Who was most ahead of time? Only one ascent per climber, so which of Ondra's should be counted, and not counting boulderroutes. Please give your opinion to update the draft list.

1. Ashima Shiraishi (11) 2012 - Lucifer 8c+
2. Adam Ondra (13) 2006 - Martin Krpan 9a
3. Josune Bereziartu 2002 - Bain de Sang 9a
4. Ben Moon 1990 - FA of Hubble 8c+ (9a)

5. Wolfgang Güllich 1991 - FA of Action Directe 9a
6. Chris Sharma 2006 - FA DWS Es Pontas 9b
7. Alex Huber 1996 - Open Air 9a+
8. Charlotte Durif 2010 - OS Le roi du pétrole 8c

IFSC Graeme Alderson interview  Facebook

Salewa Rock Award - Muriel Sarkany  Facebook

La Sportiva Competition Award - Urko Barandiaran  Facebook

Arco Rock Legends - La Sportiva Competition Award 2014 from on Vimeo.

Sharma's 8c to 9a+, most repeated in the world  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Sharma is a climbing legends who has been part of pushing the standards since he was 15 years old doing his first 8c+. He has done the FA of many classical routes but what not might be so known is actually that it is his 8c to 9a+ which are the most repeated, in the world, the last years.

8c Fish Eye in Oliana
8c+ Mind Control in Oliana
9a Era Vella in Margalef
9a+ Biographie in Céüse

All these routes are also some of the highest quality rated in the 8a data base and several persons have said they are the best ever. The most repeated 8b+ is Geminis in Rodellar which was set up by Nicolas Favresse and the #1 8b is L'ami de tout le monde. Anyone who knows who did the FA?

Puccio and Kruder Arco Boulder Master  Facebook

Alex Puccio won the Arco Boulder Masetr for the third year and among the guys, Jernej Kruder got his first title. Both were runner up in the Boulder World Champion just two weeks ago. #2 were Akiyo Noguchi and Jeremy Bonder and #3 Julija Kruder and Makoto Yamauchi.

The format differs from the normal IFSC format as it is KO, meaning that after every boulder some guys are eliminated. The athletes have practiced the boulder 90 minutes during the morning. "An extremely fast formula, cruel even if you want. Easy to understand."

Last Stop Västervik  Facebook

Amma and Röck Arco Rock Masters  Facebook

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Sacci Amma - Magdalena Röck
2. Francesco Vettorata - Mina Markovic
3. Sean McColl - Helena Janicot

Francesco, who onsighted an 8c+ this July, actually got as high as Sacci in the final which was a nice sensation as his previous best result in the WC is #10. Full report on RockMasterFestival. (c) Eddie Fowke

Why are the first 9a's very seldom repeated nowadays  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAction Directe was set up in 1991 by Wolfgang Güllich and it is considered as the first 9a. It has been done 16 times but only Alex Megos has done it during the last 2.5 years. The other first seven 9a's, see below, have just, in total, been repeated a couple of times the last five years. Add to that that the latest of the four repeats of the first 8c+, but where also 9a has been mentioned, Hubble by Ben Moon in 1989, was done five years ago and you might wonder why are the first 9a's very seldom repeated nowadays?

Here are the seven first 9a's, after Action Direct, which have just in total been repeated a couple times the last five years.
1993: Om by Alexander Huber, Hugh by Fred Rouhling, Bain de Sang by Fred Nicole
1994: Weisse Rose by Huber
1995: Akira 9b by Fred Rouhling,
1996: Open Air by Huber, The Big Ben by Neil Carson

First of all, the FA guys and all the repeaters long time ago, should be given all the credit. Josune Bereziartu did Bain de Sang 2002 and Ondra has suggested an upgrade for Open Air to 9a+. During 2014, some 60 guys will probably make some 100 9a ascents but are they equally hard as the first 9a's and even Action Directe was originally graded XI which was converted to 8c+/9a.

The possible explenations for why we see more and more 9a ascents but less of the first ones might of course be grade inflation but also that the popular 9a's of today seems to be steeper and longer more endurance based challenges. With all great indoors gyms, it might feel just easier to focus on endurance training. If Güllich Moon and Huber would have tried Era Vella, they might have said it was 9a+.

However, as the grade scale is based on how hard the community thinks different routes are, it might be time to do carry on with some more upgrades of Huber's routes and officially also call Hubble 9a. What do you think? On the picture by Huberbaum, Alex Huber does Om, which originally was 8c+ but Ondra said 9a and possibly, it is a stiff one compared to the 2014 9a standard, or even 9a+?

Malatal bouldering  Facebook

9a by Antton Zabala  Facebook

Sarkany and Barandiaran Arco Rock Legends 2014  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanetMountain reports that Muriel Sarkany won the Salewa Rock Award and Urko Carmona Barandiaran the La Sportiva Competition Award in the Arco Rock Master 2014. Muriel, one of the best competition climbers in the history, did her first 9a, Punt X, last year being 39 years old. Urko won the European Para Championship for ampute last year. On the picture by Giulio Malfer, the six nominated athletes from left; Ondra, Megos, Sarkany, Barandiaran, Amma, Sharafutdinov.

The Rock Award has previously been won four times by Adam Ondra but actually never by Alexander Megos inspite of his 9a onsight etc. The Competition award has nine different winners sin 2006 when the Legends cermony begun.

Win a free trip to TNF Kalymnos Festival  (4) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureFor the third year in a row, The North Face has asked us to run a scorecard competition where you can win a free trip and accommodation for two persons to the Kalymnos Festival 9 - 12 October.

The competition will be like a lottery where you get one ticket for every ascent you record in August.

Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb in RMNP  Facebook


Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods In Upper Upper Chaos Canyon from The Island on Vimeo.

Lead WCs are more challenging for Ondra  (3) Facebook

Restjug has made a new interview with Adam Ondra. He says that as in 2011, when he was #2 in the Boulder World Champion, he has just done a couple of bouldering training sessions in 2014.

"Training for boulder competitions is not very motivating for me. They are even more of a lottery compared to lead comps. You can be a somewhat lucky winner, you don’t have to be the strongest at all in order to win, it really depends on the boulder setting. And, by all means, I don’t want to underestimate the performance of strong boulderers, but I just think that bouldering is personally easy compared to lead.

Traversi does 26 6C's on his 26 birthday during 10 hours  Facebook

David Mason in Rocklands 2014  Facebook

Dave Mason: Rocklands 2014

Adam Ondra interview part 1  Facebook

Africa Fusion Trailer with Honnold and Findlay  Facebook

Africa Fusion Official Trailer from Fresh Rock Films on Vimeo.

Two 7c+ by Alberto Gines (11)  Facebook

Alberto Gines has had an amazing trip to Rodellar where he did ten 7c+ and harder out of which two onsight and one 8a+ redpoint. Hard to keep track of all these wonderkids :)

Martin Stranik does 8A+ in Magic Wood  Facebook

Jack's Broken Heart from on_off on Vimeo.

Roger Crespo climbing 'El Cargolaire', 8c  (1) Facebook

8c by Sarah Seeger  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSarah Seeger has done Chrisu, 8c in Rottachberg in the German alps. "It is my 3rd 8c, after Steinbock and Odd Fellows, both in my current home area, the Frankenjura. Chrisu was an epic story for me and I did not expect to send it today at all - maybe that was the secret :-) now it's time to enjoy summer, then back to some Frankenjura projects!"
(c) Manuel Brunn

34 boulders 8A or harder in two weeks by Hojer  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Hojer did yesterday add another five 8A's in Rocklands and including Golden Shadow 8B+, the 20 year old has done 34 boulders 8A and harder in two weeks in Rocklands. His record breaking ticklist includes three 8B+ and four 8A+ flashes. In the 8a game he is #6. (c) DAV

In three weeks he will be one of the favourites for the last Boulder World Cup in Munich as he was #3 in the last event. The boulder world championship starts September 12th."I'm gonna leave on Tuesday and probably focus on plastic till the world championship. Maybe I will go to Switzerland for a few days after the World Cup if I'm in a good shape...

8b greenpoint by Mayan Smith-Gobat  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMayan Smith-Gobat, one of the best female allround climber, has greenpointed China Doll in Dream Canyon to the first anchor. It is a nice sport route graded 8a+ which Mayan did on trad gear suggesting 8b.

Last week, she did the 3rd free ascent and the first female ever of Donnafugata in Dolomites in 32 h which is a 25 pitch 8a. She onsighted all but two pitches!

Two 8b+ by Mar Álvarez  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMar Álvarez has done her two first 8b+, Tripa de Conejo and Ixeia (see picture) in Rodellar. Check her nice Gallery.

If you're able to read in Spanish or want to use Google translator, here is the interview we had with her right after sending the first of those two routes a few days ago.

8A by Courtney Sanders  Facebook

Courtney Sanders who started to climb only four years ago has done her fourth 8A, The Hatchling in Rocklands. One good explanation for her fast progress is that she meet Daniel Woods in 2009 who is her husband since last year.

8b OS again by Piotr Schab (15)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has spent two great and hot weeks in Margalef where he has onsighted three 8a's, two 8a+' and Xiketeta,8b in Margalef.

The 15 year old is #3 in the Junior ranking and last year he was #5 in the Youth World Championship. (c) Elias Holzknecht

8b+ by Lena Herman (18)  Facebook

Lena Herman has done her first 8b+, Land of confusion in Frankenjura. " Second try after work out, three days. PSYCHED!" Last year, Lena was #2 in a Boulder Euro Youth Cup.

8c by the Bacher Sisters  Facebook

Sabine Bacher reports that she and her sister Barbara have done Der Schwarze Schwan, 8c in Ötztal. Both sisters have been active World Cup climbers for some ten years, and Sabine was #17 last year in Bouldering.

Barbara has competed in both disciplines- in 2003 she was #5 in the Lead World Cup, and in 2000 she won the Youth World Championships.

Record Streak by Jan Hojer in Rocklands  (3) Facebook

Jan Hojer is setting records in Rocklands, where in the past 9 days he has done 26 boulders 8A and harder. In total, Jan has flashed 4 8A+ problems, and came close on The Power of One 8B, having to drop off to rearrange the pads. In the last Boulder World Cup, the German was #3.

8b+ MP by Nina Caprez  (2) Facebook

Petzl reports that Nina Caprez has done the FFA of the eight pitch Carnet d'adresse, 8b+ in Rocher du Midi. Nina was a succesful competition climber and boulderer until she stopped in 2009, and now she is a contendor for being the best female multi-pitch climber.

8B+ and report by Graham  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham who has been one of the leading climbers for 12 straight years, putting up the most hardcore boulder FAs in the world, has done Golden Shadow, 8B+ and more in Rocklands. Check his report on The Island

First 8A by Nina Williams  Facebook

Nina Williams has done her first 8A, The Hatchling in Rocklands. She has also done three 7C+ problems, one of which was a very impressive flash of Teatime.

First 9a+ pitch opend by Adam Ondra  Facebook

As reported earlier, Adam Ondra has bolted a 55 meter potential 9b+ in Flatanger. Video and comments by Adam. Now Adam has opend the first pitch midways giving it a 9a+ and says that he wants to stay put until the full length is done.

8B+ by Daniel Woods  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has done Fred Nicole's Golden Shadow, 8B+ in Rocklands, "On the first day, fell twice topping out. The next day it went first try. Such nice movement. Finger lock to start, heel toe cam crux, hard swing out, and tension finish." (c) Beau Kahler

The 22 year old who has been one of the best boulderers in the world for six years and who is the only one to have flashed an 8B+ (C), has also made the first flash of Tea with Elmarie, 8A+. In the 8a ranking game, Daniel is #2. Check out his FB page for a full nice update, where he also mentions that also Dave Graham and Nalle Hukkataival did Golden Shadow.

8A+ Flash and 8B+ by GuiGui in Magic  (15) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureGuillaume Glairon-Mondet who is #4 in the Boulder World Cup before the last event has had some amazing days in Magic Wood. His impressive Tick List includes the flash of Massive Attack, 8A+ and also The Never ending Story, 8B+. More info in his blog also in english.

9a by Qinghua Wang  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureQinghua Wang has done the FA of Chris Sharmas's project Redpoint Meal, 9a in Yanshuo. Kai Mu reports including picture, "He has won the lead and bouldering china national champion many times in last few years" and he has previously done routes up to 8c.

Third 8b+ by Cameron Hörst (11)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst has done his third 8b+, Private Halfenheimer in Ten Sleep which he feels is his hardest yet. His younger brother Jonathan (9) has already done an 8a, Dances with Cowes but said it probably was soft for it's grade. Both brothers do also play tackle fotball and basketball.

Their father, Eric Hörst has been a climbing coach for 35 years and has written many books on the subject. Here is a video about Eric and his family climbing

First 8c by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (49)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRobyn Erbesfield-Raboutou has copied what her daughter Brooke (11) did last week, an amazing ascent of Welcome to Tiujana, 8c in Rodellar. Between 1992 and 1995 she won the Lead World Cup four straight years before she stopped competing.

Robyn was one of the first female to do 8b+ in 1993 and now 20 years later she did her first 8c! One month ago she did an 8b+ in Rodellar commenting, "I don't train. I usually get to boulder inside twice a week with friends. We climb a couple of hours. I've been coaching the Team and we built a new gym in Boulder. I think I'm just happy to be climbing beautiful routes outside."

8A+ and 8A by Samuel Hammer (14)  Facebook

Samuel Hammer has done his first 8A+, Eskimo in Espoo where he during the same day also did Hottentotti. The Fin is #1 among the 14 year olds in bouldering and #2 in routes.

Martin Mobråten does two 8B (+) in 30 min each  (5) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMaria Davies Sandbu reports that Martin Mobråten has done Mooiste Meisie and Madiba in Rocklands in just 30 minutes each and that he gives them a personal grade of 8B. On the picture by Stian Engelsvoll Martin does The Arch, 8B. Further more, Martin has done another 12 boulders 8A and harder which also most of them where one grade harder originally.

8B (+) by Felipe Camargo  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureFelipe Camargo has opened Segundo Sol, 8B in Sao Bento doSapucai. "It's basically two hard moves (plus 3 feet moves) in a roof. I first tried this boulder in 2010 together with my friend Jon cardwell when he came to Brazil. we thought it was really hard and couldn't do it. And just got the chance to try it again this year and it took me 2 days to be able to do the first move and send. For the grade...i think something in between v13 or ill just say 8B and see what the next say.

Another two 8a+ OS by Matilda Söderlund  Facebook

Matilda Söderlund has onsighted two 8a+ in Céüse, Encore and Le poinçonneur des lilas. Including her previous three 8b and three 8a+ onsights in 2012, she is the best female onsight climber this year. The 19 year old has also flashed two 8b+.

Today she is competing in Briancon and as she said she was not tired but just did a mistake, when she fell in Chamonix, two holds below #4, chances are great that she will improve her #8 in Chamonix last week.

8c (b+) and more by Piotr Schab (15)  (1) Facebook

Piotr Schab has onsighted four 8a's or harder and redpointed Aitzol, 8c (b+) in Margalef. "2 tries today and one in April.. my style, nice first day in Margalef :)"The 15 year old is #17 in the ranking game.

First and second 9a by a Finn back to back  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureWith a small population and maybe even less potential for climbing, Finland has done pretty well for itself in the bouldering scene in the last few years, mainly thanks to Nalle Hukkataival and Anthony Gullsten.

However the last few days saw two 9a ascents by Finnish climbers. The exact timeframe is of now a bit unclear but apparently Anthony Gullsten snatched the first one by putting down Le Cadre Nouvelle Version in Ceuse. Not far behind, Tomi Nytorp did Cabane au Canada in Rawyl. Neither one is returning home anytime soon so there might be more to report on later. Source: Slouppi

8c by Brooke Raboutou (11)  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureBrooke Raboutou has done Welcome to Tijuana in Rodellar which should be one of the most remarkable ascents in the history as we are talking a classic well confirmed 8c by a 11 year old girl. More info to come and on Team ABC Blog.

Her mother, Robin Erbesfield, did win four straight world cup titles in the beginning of the 90-ties before she stopped competing and only focused on rock. The last years Robyn has been running ABC Kids and been doing at least one 8b every year.

photo: Team ABC in Spain (c) Team ABC Blog

Yet another 8c+ OS by Adam Ondra  (11) Facebook

Adam Ondra has onsighted yet another 8c+ in Flatanger, Muy Verdes which was bolted by Dani Andrada and the FA was done by Erik Grandelius. Instead of trying to do the FA, Adam did just wait until Erik projected it down after four days.

Erik was just amazed after having seen him the first day in the cave and could not stop talking about the super hard moves he did so easily. This is also the major reason why Erik almost stopped competing in the WC as the top climbers are not within reach.

Michael Piccolruaz: #1 among the 16 year olds?  Facebook

Michael Piccolruaz has recorded three 8A+ in Magic Woods out of which Massive Attack, originally 8B, was done in some 15 minutes over two sessions. In addition he did six previous originally 8A boulders which he gave 7C or 7C+.

8a+ by Maggie Smith (42)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMaggie Smith gives just another good example that progress beyond 40+ is possible. Yesterday, the 42 year old did her first 8a+, June Reactor in Coliseum. The picture by Shannon Lamb shows her doing the first 8a, La Confianza and as a matter of fact she has improved one grade every year since 7c.

8A+'s by Shauna Coxsey and UK Champ  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey has done two 8A+'s in Parisella's cave, In Hell and Halfway House for which she gives a personal grade of 8A. More info at her blog.

Only the last month, the 19 year old has done eight boulders 8A and harder. In the Boulder Cup 2012, she is #2 before the last event and last week she won the British Championships. (c) Paul Bennett

"I leave for Magic Wood on Monday for a few week. It might be more of a chill out time as I think it's quite hot there. And then I have lots of comps on over the summer before heading back to America in October."

Any special preperation before the last event in Munich?
No special training, I want to climb on rock as much as I can and have a few session indoor here and there. I am so happy with my results already this year I just want to enjoy the last few comps. I am really looking forward to training for next season though!

8A again by Conny Matthes  Facebook

Conny Matthes has done Th Trabi, 8A in Thüringen which was her eight 8A and harder the last year. Totally, she has done 17 boulders 8A and harder which should put her in Top-20 in the All Time High List.

8A+ OS by Jan Dedonder  Facebook

Jan Dedonder has onsighted The Sqwuaminator, 8A+ in Squamish. "I can't believe I did that, insane gorgeous problem." You understand what he says as he has previously only done one 8A+ and that it might be the first 8A+ onsight in the world.

8C? in 30 min by Hukkataival  (76) Facebook

Nalle Hukkataival blogs about his first day in Cape town where he made the first repeat of Paul Robinson's A Simple Knowing, 8C in Topside. Video where the action starts 11.30 min.

"I managed to climb it quickly in half an hour. It’s a nice problem, but once again nowhere near the difficulty that I consider V15 (8C).

Adam Ondra comments his amazing sends  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has recorded 14 ascents, out of which 13 climbs did get 3 stars, from his first two weeks in Scandinavia. Only these would have made him a superior leader in the 8a game. On the pic by Petr Pavlicek who is filming everything, you can see the 31 quickdraws he started with as he onsighted Nordic Flower, 8c+ (9a).

Loven: "This crag is insanely good!"
Ekne: "I love Norway."
Odin's Eye, 8c+: "... possibly the most valuable onsight ever for me. Incredible piece of rock."
Thor's Hammer, 9a+: "First two pitches of multi-pitch monster project from Magnus Midtboe (enormous effort) linked into a massive 55-meter long pitch. Could be easy 9b, but climbed it rather fast and found some better beta compared to Magnus.

8A by Maria Davies Sandbu in 45 min  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMaria Davies Sandbu is back in Rocklands where she has done The Hatchling, 8A for which she only used 45 min, and also another two previous 8A's giving them 7C+. In the ranking game, the 20 year old Norweigian is #2 in the world after Alex Puccio.

The 20 year old Norwegian reports about good conditions in general but has not yet decided which will be her next project. She has three weeks left.

8c+ or 9a slab by James McHaffie  (3) Facebook

Planetmountain has the story of James McHaffie doing the 25 year old slab project, The Meltdown for which he says it is 8c+ or 9a, meaning that it is one of the most difficult slabs in the world.

On the road to The North Face Kalymnos Festival  Facebook

8c+ (9a) OS by Adam Ondra  (15) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has onsighted Jorg Verhoeven's Nordic Flower in Flatanger. ""It is 8c+ only if you have 30 quickdraws on your harness". As it can be seen from the picture of Miroslav Minarik he used two ropes and put up the quickdraws during the climb.

In total, the 19 year old (who was the best World Cup competitor during 2009 and 2010), has onsighted eleven 8c+s excluding the ones he has down graded. To put this into perspective, the "runner ups" in this game, Ramonet and Patxi Usobiaga, have done one each.

Also in bouldering, Adam is #1 in the game and has not yet reported from his Norwegian trip is his ascent of Blood Redemption in Matre, for which he gave a personal grade of 8B+. FA by Magnus Midtbö.

8c FA by Chuck Odette (56)  Facebook

Chuck Odette who started to climb in 1978 has done his first 8c, Morphine in Coliseum. Hardest thing I've ever done. Since it's an FA it will need confirmation, no doubt. I am proposing 8c but that could change. It's an amazing climb, enduring, varied, powerful & fun :)

8b+ again by Cameron Hörst (11)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst has done his second 8b+ on his fourth try, Galactic Emperor in Ten Sleep which is an extension to Sky Pilot, 8b. The 11 year old has been climbing for eight years and his father Eric is a well known trainer.

I also enjoy playing tackle football (I'm the Quarterback for my 5th grade team--we won the league championship in 2011!) and team basketball in the winter. I also enjoy snow skiing.

8a+ by Brooke Raboutou (11)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureBrooke Raboutou has done le Branlotin, 8a+ in Rodellar. When she was 10 years old she did her first 8b (+). Her mother Robyn Erbesfield (49), four times WC winner overall, is doing hardest grades in the family.

9a by Dino Lagni (44)  Facebook

Planetmountain reports that Dino Lagni (44) has done his first 9a by doing the first repeat of Silvio Reffo's Attimo, 9a in Covolo. In 1999, the Italian won the Lead World Champion. This is once again a nice example of the uniqueness when it comes to climbing and age.

9a+/b (FA) & 9a+ by Ramonet during the weekend  (14) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julián Puigblanqué, who did the 9a+ of 'Catxasa' at 39º C in Santa Linya last weekend, did another one yesterday by making the first repeat of Iker Pou's Nit de Bruixes, 9a+ in Margalef (Iker's nice video below).
Since it started raining and the objective of the day was already done by midday, he drove to Sta. Linya where he had the time to on-sight an 8b+ and to send another one in two goes.

But that was not all for him this last weekend because last Friday he returned to Santa Linya for a photographic session on 'Catxasa' with Carlos Pérez Díaz and during one of his 'posing goes' he surprised himself by reaching the firsts anchors (9a+), got motivated and decided to keep on going till finally reaching the second chains after around an hour of fighting and some over extended rests waiting for the photographer to get on the right spot... It turned out to be the FA up to that point... Waiting for others to repeat it, he thinks it might be 9a+/b.

8A+ by Melissa Le Neve  Facebook

Melissa Le Neve has done Tea With Elmarie, 8A+ in Rocklands. In total she has done ten boulders 8A and harder down there including one flash. Climbing is an obsession, I really want to progress, going to my limits is my project. Since three years I really like to go outside and I really want make lots of trip in the world. I want to express myself outside in lead as in bouldering and in competition.

High altitude 9a+ FA and much more in Borneo  (6) Facebook

Daniel Woods has done the FA of Tinipi, 9a+ which was bolted by Yuji Hirayama in Mount Kinabalu at almost 4 000 m altitude in Borneo. Yuji also made the FA of the two pitch Pogulian Do Koduduo,9a. It should be noted that he has previously said that the grades would have been lower at sea level.

8A (+) and 8A by Shauna Coxsey  Facebook

Shauna Coxsey is back in UK from her successful trip to Colorado where she was #2 in Vail and did several 8A and harder. In Parisella's cave she has done Halfway house giving it a personal grade of 8A and Pit of Hell Start' 8A.

8a OS by Tito Traversa (11)  (7) Facebook

Tito Claudio Traversa has onsighted his first 8a, La Perdonavidas in Margalef. "35m of fighting putting up the drawers." During the last week, the 11 year old has onsighted some 20 routes 7b and harder. Adam Ondra onsighted several 8a+ before he turned 12.

8B+ (C) by James Webb  Facebook

James Webb has done Daniel Wood's Warrior up in Mt Evans suggesting a personal grade of 8B+. "3rd ascent. Really psyched to put it together. Didn't think it was possible for me at first. Don't know about the 8C though.. at least for my height. Few more weeks in Boulder.. then off to Rifle!

8a OS by Michaela Kiersch (17)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaela Kiersch has don her first 8a onsight, Flour power in Red River Gorge. The 17 year old has previously onsighted two 7c+ and redpointed two 8b's. (c) Julien Gasc from Swingline, 8b.

Catxasa, 9a+ by Ramonet  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque has made the first repeat of Chris Sharma's Catxasa in Santa Linya despite a temperature of 39 degrees. In his blog he says that the heat was just too much and he was wondering why the hell he was in the cave to start with. But instead of leaving, he went up to check the moves and later sent the route on his second try of the day, to his big surprise. In total, he worked the route for four days and it was his sixth 9a+. (c) M Alba

8c+ and 8c FA by Adam Ondra in Granitgrottan  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureOn his first day of his six-week film making trip to Scandinavia, Adam Ondra has opened an 8c+ in Granitgrottan where the business starts passing an arete lip after a roof. "If this boulder had been located in Ticino, there would always have been a long queue for it! Awesome rock and sequence. This is the hardest-to-onsight climbing rock I have ever encountered."

Adam also opened an 8c second go. More info, pictures and interview to come. (c) Alvaro Susena


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