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The 9a road by Andre Neres 

The 9a ROAD - O FILME from Hands Up Creations on Vimeo.


Robert Leistner & Julia Winter. Bleauimpressionenen. 


Swiss Time • Trailer • Bouldering in Switzerland 


9a by Sachi Amma 

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Amma who has won the Lead World Cup the two last years has done Chris Sharma's Tierra Negra 9a in Margalef. "Good to stay in Spain after the World Cup season. 5 goes. There are monos and 2 fingers with powerful moves. Now I am used to rock in Spain! I move to Oliana.

Short interview - No plan just climbing Facebook

Mirko Caballero (12) grows taller 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero, who did his first 8A's when he was 10 and now has done a total of 36 including an 8B, is going for the classics including Evilution direct 8A in Bishop, instead of the hardest grades. "Unreal!!! My Dream Boulder since I was 6 years old. Hard scary super highball. But sooo amazing!

I've focused more on climbing very classic routes and boulders recently. It feels nice to do climbs that are famous or have some history... For example Midnight Lightning which is probably one of the most famous boulders although not the hardest I've done...

Recently I train about 3 times a week in the gym, because I climb every weekend outside. I also run and started some cross training. I've grown a lot this year, and my Dad said I should make sure to balance my muscles out..."
Mirko is now 166 cm and 50 kg. Facebook

EpicTV presents Finale 


Interview with Ramonet - The best rock and WC climber since 2000  (2)

Click to Enlarge PictureRestjug has made an interview with Ramon Julian Puigblanque, the best Lead World Cup climber since 2000 who also has been Top-3 in the 8a rankings for 10 straight years. © Gerard Montero

"Should the results not come with competitions, it might be that I’d like to take a year to have specific objectives on rock. My objective will be to do a 9b. I’ve been climbing 9a+ for a few years now and I feel like it’s time to break the barrier. I have enough routes to choose from, I just need to go for them! Facebook

Pablo Barbero climbing 'Última XIII', 8c in Cuenca (Spain) 


8a #30 in 2013 for Cathy Wagner (48) 

Cathy Wagner has done two 8a's in Gorges du Loup and in total she has now done 30 including three 8a+ in 2013. Normally she does around 20 8a's a year but it seems the 48 year old goes for her most productive year since 2003. In total, she has done more than 400 8a's out of which just a dozen in Spain. Facebook

Style, Strength, Courage and Agility decide winner at "Show Off" 

Click to Enlarge PictureDecember 14th, the MN Amsterdam is hosting a spectacular invitational comp incl Jan Hojer, Juliane Wurm. The winner will be decided in two rounds on the massive overhanging lead wall of Mountain Network Amsterdam. In the first 'Duel Speed Lead' round the climbers battle against each other in identical routes through the eleven metres overhanging wall.

The next round consists of two outrageous routes. This 'Show Off' round will prove who has the most style, strength, courage and agility. The climber with the coolest moves steals the show and will no doubt win most points. The public is, in this round, namely the jury and their applause and cheers decide the winners through decibel metres. Massive soundsystem and a fabulous light show will complement the whole experience. Facebook

Five ways to add ascents  (3)

1. Popular climbs - 20 seconds
a. Start writing the crag/ sector in the "Search & Add Ascent" box
b. Select grade and find your route/boulder
c. Record details including comments etc

2. New climbs, First Ascents etc - 30 seconds
a. Click "Add" up to the left
b. Record name, crag, grade and other details

3. Quick recording - 10 seconds
a. Click "Add Via Mobile" up to the left
b. Record name, grade and country
(Later you can add details)

4. Recording projects and One Hang ascents etc
Maybe you want to remember the sequence on a project or a nice onsight attempt etc. You can choose from a. One Hang, b. Tried/Hang dog, c. Log-book/No score or d. Project

5. Database ascents
a. In order to make a crag complete, you can add "Database" ascents even if you have not done the climb and it will not be shown on your scorecard. Facebook

VIDEO UPDATE ! James Webb takes a sensational win at La Sportiva Legends  (15)

1. James Webb
2. Dmitry Sharafutdinov
3. Jan Hojer
4. Alexander Megos, 5. Nalle Hukkataival, 6. Sean McColl

James Webb, who never has done any international boulder competitions, took a very impressive victory in front of Dima Sharafutdinov, three times Boulder World Champion. In 2013, James has set a new world standard in bouldering by flashing 37 8A's and harder. For 2014, he has said he want try some Boulder World Cups. Watch the replay.

UPDATE : watch the backstage wrap up, from boulder setting to the afterparty !

Historias de cordada 


Petrohrad bouldering by EpicTV in association with 8a 


Kalymnos with Ciavaldini and Pearson incl their wedding 


Bolting Abella 


TNF: Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition 


Jain Kim interview 

Click to Enlarge PictureJain Kim has been the best Lead competition climber since 2009. During the last 30 WC's she has been Top-4 27 times and the last four world championships, she has taken the silver. Route setter Christian Bindhammer has said that if also the male were competing on the female route, Jain would reguraly make it into the male Top-8 final.

Congratulations to your 2013 WC title Jain. How much and how do you train?
Normally I train five days a week and around five hours per day at my brothers's gym in Seoul, 'the Ja's' . I like to train with my brother because I can challenge my self with the difficult men routes and tricky moves.

What do you like the most with the World Cups?
I like the most to climb many routes in WC's together with awesome climbers. There are so many different styles and different holds for each event and I have so much fun when I climb in beautiful gyms with nice audiences!

I think the most important thing is my enjoyment. Sometimes I feel pressure because many people judge me just for the result. But now I know that this is not important. If I really enjoy my climbing and competition, it's ok even if my results is not good. So I always try to enjoy my climb and complete the route!

What is your next plan? Any plans for climbing on the rock?
I have just finished my long season. It was quite tough because I had bad injury in start of the season. So this winter I will have a good rest first and then train hard for next awesome season with no injuries. I really want to do all Lead WC's the next season!

It is hard to go now because now I am studying sport psychology in graduate school but I plan to go to Japan in February and do The North Face bouldering cup and then climb some rock with Daniel Woods, Yuji Hirayama and Akiyo Noguchi. So psyched!! Facebook

The Ice Knife Sit 8C by Daniel Woods 


Lithuania bouldering 

The Big Ones from Vman on Vimeo.


Squamish high balls 

Highball Day - Squamish Bouldering 2013 from The RV Project on Vimeo.


Teneriffa Tension with Gu 

Teneriffa Tension | Bouldering with Gu from funst on Vimeo.


Is it the ape heritage that make our age and performance unique? 

Click to Enlarge PictureRock climbing is unique when it comes to age and performance. During 2013, several guys around 40 years are peaking although they have been climbing since they were a teenager at the same time as 12-year-old Ashima Shiraishi, is actually #1 in the world, measuring her route and boulder Tick List.

The age span is getting wider every year but how is it possible and where will it end? If the trend continues, we will see several 10 year old's and 50 year old's doing 9a's.

Sure, one could argue that bouldering and sport climbing are new sports but in reality, we have not seen so much general grade progress the last years. A better explanation could be that climbing is in fact a more technical, tactical and mental sport compared to what we first think, trying the physical cruxes.

One hand doctor, told me that our forearms and the finger strength are in general the least developed big muscle in our body. He also said, that it is only the climbers, out of all sports, that come close to develop the full potential of the forearms. When he continued saying that it is due to our monkey heritage, he could state this, I thought he was joking but today I actually think he was telling the truth. His simple advice was just to use our hands as much as an orangutan would.

Maybe we all got some monkey power and endurance in our fingers and it is just about wake it up by training as much as possible and if so we will all have our peak at 50+? The interesting fact backing this up is that probably, Adam Ondra and Sasha Digiulian are the two 20 year olds in the world that have trained the most. Why do you think that climbing is unique when it comes to age and performance? © Shah / WWF Facebook

Ojeda and Hsu: Girls trip Brazil 

Daila Ojeda & Olivia Hsu: Girls Trip Brazil from Prana Living on Vimeo.


The best male boulderers since 2000 

There are, in oposite to climbing, very few male boulders who are in the top both in competitions and on rock. Here is a draft list of the best male boulderers since 2000.

1. Kilian Fischhuber AUT
2. Adam Ondra CZE
3. Daniel Woods USA
4. Christian Core ITA
5. Fred Nicole SUI

6. Jerome Meyer FRA
7. Gui-Gui Mondet FRA
8. Nalle Hukkataival FIN
9. Dima Sharafutdinov RUS
0. Sean McColl CAN Facebook

Layla Mammi in Silvretta 

Silvretta Bouldering from laylazz on Vimeo.


Five days in Albarracin 

Five days in Albarracin from Nils Favre on Vimeo.


Paul Robinson Jaws II Video (9a+) 

Video of Paul Robinson sending Jaws, 9a+ in Rumney.


World Cup (Euro) crises 2014?  (20)

There are a total of 6 Boulder and 8 Lead World Cups in the IFSC calendar for 2014 out of which 3 + 4 in Europe. Compared to previous years, nine World Cups in Europe was the lowest ever. In 2013 it was ten events held in Europe and in 2011, 13 events.

As there is a World Champion in Spain and there are four Lead World Cups in Asia how many climbers will actually participate in the Lead World Cup in 2014, especially since you have to count all but one in the total rankings? Facebook

Iker Arroitajauregi bouldering in Corme (Galicia-Spain) 

Check here the recent interview we had with him in Spanish coming with some pics and more of his videos.


Alberto Rocasolano doing two 8B+'s in Spain 


Felipe Camargo doing two 8B+' 


Cameron & Jonathan Hörst training in their home gym 


The most popular know how 8a articles 

85 370 Lactid Acid and Pumped Forearms
53 675 Recruitment and Finger Training
46 773 Shortcuts to become an 8a climber
34 905 Hangboarding

32 393 Practice & Ethics in Sport Climbing
28 393 Belaying technique and soft falls
27 985 DYNOING - A ballastic science: Fly, baby fly? Facebook

Brione by Epic TV in association with 8a  (1)


The bouldering God father John Gill exercises at 76 


Webb gets the 8C FA battle over Woods and Graham  (6)

James Webb does the FA of The Wheel of Wolvo which links an 8B+ start into The over cling traverse, 8A+.

More clear scoring and rules needed for Lead WC's 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn the World Cup in Kranj, Akiyo Noguchi were announced as the winner and Jain Kim as #3 and nobody of the three commentators, including Sean McColl, questioned this. Later appeals were made taking way the + for them changing the results so Momoka Oda won and Mina Markovic were #3.

In order to get a + you need to do, "i) A significant change in position of the competitor's centre of mass; and ii) The movement of at least one hand in order to reach either the next hold"

The two big problems are that for some moves, you just move the hand, i.e. you do not need to significantly move the centre of the mass to make the move. Further more, Jain first grabbed #29 with her left and then "used" it as she matched hands and moved her body significant (50 cm) and also moved both her legs.

"A hold from which a competitor has made a controlled climbing movement in the interest of progressing along the route shall be considered as “used”. The score of a competitor using a hold shall be the number assigned to that hold on the route sketch with a plus (+) suffix."

As I can understand the rule I also agree with the commentators, including Sean McColl, that there were no doubt that Jain also got the +. 15 min later, when probably most had stopped watching, suddenly the judges had changed the result even if Jain also made an appeal.

Probably what the judges took into consideration is a rule that basically gives them the power to neglect the "rule". "It is at the IFSC Judge’s discretion to set the limit between “controlled” and “used” for each hold in order to separate competitors with markedly different performance."

It is easy to understand that more clear scoring and rules are needed. The easiest thing would be to go back to the old scoring with a - and if there is any doubt from the judge, they should not present any result or at least mark it with a question mark (?). Facebook

Alex Honnold interview  (5)

Here is a nice interview with Alex Honnold, the most famous solo climber in the world among climbers. Facebook

Muriel Sarkany presented by Sterling Rope 


Lost in North America: Ep. 7 Forking Awesome Bouldering in Joe's Valley 


Muriel is the best female sport climber in the history 

Based on lead competitions and route climbing, Who is on your Top-10 list best female in the history? Who should be added to my draft list?

1. Muriel Sarkany
2. Robin Erbesfield
3. Josune Bereziartu
4. Lynn Hill
5. Sasha Digiulian

6. Maja Vidmar
7. Charlotte Durif
8. Mina Markovic
9. Liv Sansoz
0. Alizee Dufraisse Facebook

Sisu Masters 2013 

Funky Moves - Sisu Masters 2013 from Blue Kangoo Films on Vimeo.


8a in Brazil 

Evoluçăo das Espécies - Brazópolis/MG from Crimb on Vimeo.


EPIC TV - A online video distributor  (4)

Click to Enlarge PictureEpic TV has very fast become one of the leading outdoor extreme sports distributor in the world. Every day they present new high class videos.

"We already have contracts covering 50 climbing web series. The film productions are all carefully selected, we focus on quality stuff."

On Wednesday a 74 min Chuck Frybergers new film is released, called "Exposure Vol.1". Dave Graham, Nalle Hukkataival and five other famous professional climbers seek out and attempt to climb some of the worlds most challenging boulders, mountains and trad routes.

The streaming starts at 05.00 CET on Thu 21/11 and the cinematic premiere is available for 48 hrs, for 5€ (circa $6.75). Facebook

Javier Meng does 8B 


Highlights from Kranj 


The FA of Punció Seca 8b 

la punció seca from Mfurra on Vimeo.


Slaying The Dragon 

Slaying The Dragon from David Wade on Vimeo.


Looking for new boulders on Sardinia 

Sardinia Bloc Scouting, a time-lapse report from Michele Caminati on Vimeo.


9a by Sébastien Bouin again 

Beal reports that Sébastien Bouin has repeated Chris Sharma's 50 meter Era Bella, 9a in Margalef. Just some few days ago he did Complex du playboy, 9a/+ in Luberon. Facebook

9a+ by Enzo Oddo (16) 

Grimper reports that wonderkid Enzo Oddo has done La Rambla, 9a+ in Siurana. Alex Huber put it up as an 8c+ in 1994 and then Ramonet added an extension giving it 9a+. Later on, many have confirmed that the extension does not add so much in difficulty suggesting that Hubers FA was sandbagged. Facebook

Ramonet's 8c goes to 8c+ and then 8c+/9a or 9a  (4)

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque put up La Reina del Mora in Siurana as an 8c in 2008 which he did on his fourth try. Last year Nicolas Favresse repeated it suggesting 8c+, video. Yesterday, Dani Andrada (36) blogged about his third ascent calling it "at least 8c+/9a or 9a." (c) Victor Montilla. Facebook

8B+ and 8B by Gregor Peirce (19)  (1)

Gregor Peirce has done The Swarm, 8B+ and Direction, 8B in Bishop. "Soooo Good! I don't think there is a better boulder. V14 and V13 today! after a 6 hour drive. This one means a lot to me." Facebook

9a by Magnus Midtbř again 

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbř has done Fuck the system, 9a in Santa Linya. "Now I’m ready to try something harder!" This was the sixth 9a or harder for the norwegian who was #4 in the World Champion in 2011.

Interview where he describes also his training. Yesterday, his sister Hannah did Fabelita, 8c also at Santa Linya. More pics by Henning Wang on Magnus website. Facebook

8A+ by Katja Vidmar  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureKatja Vidmar has done her first 8A+, Petting with an alligator in Maltatal. "Another arctic expedition to Maltatal. This time no snow on the top outs. Best Christmas present ever and one of the sweetest moments of my climbing life." Video

In 2008, Katja was #2 in two World Cups and in the only one she did this year, she was #4. Katja's sister Maja won the Lead World Cup in 2007. (c) Marko Bratina Facebook

9a/+ by Seb Bouin  (4)

Kairn reports in french that Seb Bouin has done his third 9a or harder by doing Complexe du playboy, 9a/+ in Luberon. Facebook

8c by Hannah Midtbř  (1)

Hannah Midtbř sister to Magnus has done her first 8c, Fabelita in Santa Linya which is her home crag this winter. In 2008, Hannah was #3 in the European Boulder Championship and in 2009, she was #2 in the Euro Youth Cup. Facebook

9a by Ben Spannuth  (2)

Ben Spannuth has done his second 9a, Golden Ticket in Red River Gorge. "World class, varied and interesting movement on perfect rock. Adam nabbed the gem of the gorge with this one."

In the comment, Ben discusses the static/dynamic technique. Facebook

9a+ by Sachi Anma  (5)

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Anma has made the first repeat of Chris Sharma's Pachamama, 9a+ in Oliana. "The best route in my life. I spend 7 days last year, 7 days this year. Harder than Papichulo. I am sooo happy."

In the World Cup 2011 he was #3 and his worst result out of nine competitions was #4! This year Sachi finished standing on the podium for the seven last World Cups and in total he has been up there 13 times but yet no victory. As a junior he won the world championship in 2006 and 2007. (c)Breceljnik Jure Facebook

8a (+) OS by Andrea Gennari Daneri (46) 

Andrea Gennari Daneri has onsighted La Voca de la voz in Chulilla giving it a personal grade of 8a and it total the 46 year old has onsighted six 8a's in 2011. On the same day he also onsigthed El Ramallar giving it a personal grade of 7c+. Facebook

8A by Kasia and Isabelle (18) 

Kasia Pietras and Isabelle Faus (18) have done Sunshine, 8A in Hueco Tanks. For Kaisa it was her first 8A, "So psyched! Fell off the last move! Was so tired but gave it my all and sent!! So psyched!" Facebook

8B by Gu and Pringle in Font  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg did today Ubik assis, 8B in Fontainebleau, (c) Baboonmaster, and so did Ethan Pringle: "Jump all the way from pinch to the top on the stand 3rd go but had to do it an easier way coming from the sit. Such a nice wall with really fun moves and sick holds. One day! AO would most def flash. Facebook

8b+ 2nd go by Matilda Söderlund (19) 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund who started the week by flashing two 8b's in Santa Linya, did today Rollito Sharma, 8b+ 2nd go.

The best possible explanation for t herecent dramatic progress of the tall, 174 cm, is that she has been climbing full time since she finished high school in June and in September she trained with guru David Macia for a month.

Tomorrow is her last day in Santa Linya and then New Year at Railay. In 2012 she hopes to do more World Cups and return to Spain. (c) Jonas Paulsson Facebook

8B+ by James Webb 

James Webb has done Esperanza in Hueco Tanks which was his fifth 8B+ in 2011. "Felt amazing! Did all the moves quick, 2nd go from the start." Facebook

8B by Niccolň Ceria (18) 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolň Ceria has done Vecchio Leone, 8B in Brione. "A symbol of bouldering for me. Thanks to Gabri for the day." Interview with the rising star who did The never ending story, 8B+ when he was 17 years old. On the picture he does Total Eclipse, 8A+. Facebook

Two 8b flashes by Matilda Söderlund (19)  (2)

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund who was #2 in the last Euro Youth Cup has flashed two 8b's in Santa Linya, Ruta del sol and Santa Linya. It is Hannah Midtbö who gave the excellent beta.

This autumn she was #3 in the Swedish Championships competing with the guys. Matilda has previously onsighted four 7c+' and two 8a's in Spain. She lives in Stockholm where almost all routes are the opposite of being long and overhanging like in Spain. Facebook

Personal grade again by Adam Ondra  (27)

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra made the headlines by flashing the confirmed 8B+ Gecko assis in Fontainebleau yesterday. Today, he wants to reduce the hype by giving it a personal grade of 8B.

A notorious dilemma with the grade, fits perfectly my style, height and conditions were awesome. But the second climbing day, a bit tired and not fully on the limit. I would love to record it as 8B+, but it just did not feel like 8B+... that is my feeling.

One week ago he suggested a personal upgrade for Gioia to 8C+. Adam has been giving personal grades since he was 14 years old and for many of his personal best, like his first 8c+ onsight, he has not taken the easy and more prestigious way of just confirming the grades. (c) Lukás Vancura Facebook

Matteo Gambaro (37) at his peak 

Matteo Gambaro has onsighted yet another 8a+, Lupo de lupis in Grotti. The 37 year old has been climbing since he was 22 but this year is his best ever. "Climbing is my life and I want progress too!! 2012 is the end of the world and I must arrive at 9a and 8b OS. I am not old!" Facebook

8B+ by Daniel Beall  (2)

Daniel Beall has done his first 8B+, Direct North in Buttermilks. "Grades are a mystery to me, but I think this climb is probably on the soft side of 8B+. Sent by headlamp, and my camera doesn't do well in low light. : Here's video of my second to last go." Facebook

8B+ flash by Adam Ondra  (18)

Adam Ondra takes it yet to a new level by flashing Gecko assis, 8B+ in Fontainebleau. Facebook

8B+ FA by Robinson and movie plans 

Paul Robinson has made the FA of The Traphouse, 8B+, in Fontainebleau. This boulder is a direct finish of Gourmandise into Le Dernier Flu.

The ascent was filmed for the Welcome to the Hood video featuring also Gullsten, Woods and Jörg in Austria, Switzerland, Font, Red Rocks and Hueco. Facebook

8b+ by Marieta Cartró Iriarte 

Click to Enlarge PictureMarieta Cartró Iriarte has done her first 8b+, China Crisis, in Oliana. By checking her trend diagram, we should not be surprised if she will continue to progress, eventually reaching 8c in 2012. Facebook

8B's by Anthony Gullsten (19) again 

Anthony Gullsten did two more 8B's in Fontainebleau today, Ubik assis and L'Apparemment en départ bas. During the last 2.5 weeks he has done seven 8B´s and seven 8A+. Chatting with him asking for thoughts how come he has stepped up so lately?

"I don't know. I got lucky. It feels good to climb at the moment." Anyhow, finally he says, "Tomorrow I want to try something harder; Gecko, Kheops or Island (8B+), that's at least the ones that I am psyched on." Facebook

Ondra delivers also in Fontainebleau  (8)

Straight after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where, in the first two days, he flashed La Merveille, 8A (+) and Fata Morgana, 8A+ (B) for which personal grades were suggested. Furthermore, he has made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B. Facebook

8c+ by Alizee Dufraisse  (3)

Click to Enlarge PictureKairn reports that Alizee Dufraisse has done her first 8c+, Patinoso in Siurana which is a 40m long. She has previously done two 8c's in Céüse. Interview from 2009 with the former pole vaulter with 4.35 as personal best. Facebook

Nalle flashes 8B reports that Nalle Hukkataival has flashed Crown of Aragorn, 8B in Hueco Tanks which is a traverse Fred Nicole put up in 1996. Facebook

8c (b+) by Helena Alemán 

Helena Alemán has done T1 full equipe, 8c (b+) in Oliana. Last year Helena did four 8c. There are now some 40 female who have done 8c but only a handfull have done 8c+ out of which three have done 9a. Facebook

8A by Jill Church 

Jill Church has done Beefy Gecko, 8A in Bishop. "First 8A so probably soft, but felt hard to me. Three heel hooks, two toe hooks and a knee bar." Facebook

David Lama makes history again  (11)

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Lama reports that he has done Feuertaufe, 8b in Lofer. "It offers great climbing in best wall and who’s at this level deffo has to try the route. And here’s a rating-suggestion from Hansjörg Auer and me: 7a+, 8b, 7c+, 6b, 7a, 7c+, 8a (Original: 7c, 8b+, 8a+, 6b, 7b+, 8a+, 8a+).

Two weeks ago David put up a six pitcher above Cevio/Ticino including two 8b+ and two 8a+ which Pesche Wüthrich had bolted. David is one of the most gifted climber equally impressive in all disciplines. In 2006, being 16 years old, he was second in his World Cup debut. The next event he won and then he won the European Championship and in between he won his Boulder WC debut. © Rainer Eder Facebook

8B with broken foot by Parsons  (28)

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons broke his foot as he kicked the car who drove away after crushing into his van. A few days later he drove back to UK from Fontainebleau and within a week he did Ken Roof, 8B in Peak District.

"It was a painful one due to my foot being broken. It took me a long time to get my shoe on. Alex had to support the bones on top of my foot as I eventually pulled my shoe on. The problem also involves a toe hook which I could not really use properly due to the pain." (c) Courtney Sanders Facebook

8B+ by Francesco Carta 

Franscesco Carta has after two days done Christian Core's Gandalf il grigio, 8B+ in Varaze. Andrea Gennari Daneri Editor in chief of Pareti: "This guy's got the biggest potential ever seen in our country, kinda like a new Christian Core. Never seen anywone crimping so hard, so far."Youtube video Facebook

9a+ FA by Luis Alfonso Felix (35) *Updated 

Click to Enlarge PictureLuis Alfonso Félix has done his first 9a+ with the FA of the 38 meters, 80 movements and 14 bolts, Black Block in Cuenca, after 1.5 years of projecting. The route deconstruction is: "A first part of five bolts weighting 8c+ by itself, followed by a transition zone of just one bolt with a small rest. Then, a power endurance section which brings you to the middle of the route where the 8A+ crux is." (Luis got to skip this part pulling a fixed rope during his early attempts). "After that it gets a little bit easier, being just an 8b+ to the top with a last vertical and technical part with small features for both hands and feet graded 7C Fb."

When Luis was 18 he lost half his index finger when he was climbing 7c. He has previoulsy done several 8c+ and 9a's. Spanish 8a interview with more pics by Javi Pec. Facebook

9a FA by Enzo Oddo  (3)

Enzo Oddo blogs about having done the FA of Salida del sol, 9a in Cantobre which was the Ultimate route at Petzl Roc Trip in 2004. Facebook

9a and 8c+'s by Jorg Verhoeven  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureJorg Verhoeven reports from his trip to Red River Gorge where he did Pure Imagination, 9a and two 8c+'s. Further more, "25 routes 5.13 (7c+ to 8b) most on sight or flash. So freaking good to climb in the reds…" (c) Roman v.d. Werf

In 2008, Jorg won the Lead World Cup. This year he has participated in four events making the finals in all. Overall, he has made the podium in 23 events. Facebook

8A+ by Liam Vance (15) 

Liam Vance has done his second 8A+, Mandala in Bishop. "Stunning line. Dream come true! First go of the day." His first 8A+ he did when he was 14 years old. Facebook

8A by Katja Vidmar  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureKatja Vidmar has done her second 8A, Intensive in Črnotiče. "Super good weekend. I got wings after a good session in my project yesterday. So happy!!! Petting is next!"

Last year her personal best was 7C. In 2008, Katja was #5 in the Boulder World Cup and this year she was #4 in the only event she entered.

Katja's sister is Maja Vidmar who has been one of the leading females in the Lead World Cup as well as outdoors the last years. Facebook

8c+/9a by Gabri Moroni  (1)

Gabriele Moroni has done the second ascent by Adam Ondra's Masoniamoci, 8c+ in Masone.

Gabriele Moroni - Masoniamoci 8c+/9a from Granze on Vimeo.


8a OS by Jakob Heber Norum (15) 

Jakob Heber Norum has onsighted his first 8a, Chiquita in Misja Pec. Two days later he was #5 in the Euro Youth Cup in Kranj and this was also his result overall. Facebook

9a by Daniel Jung  (2)

Daniel Jung reports that he did Inga, 9a in Gorges du Loup in October. Facebook

7th 8A by David Kompatscher (18) 

David Kompatscher has done seven 8A boulders during the last ten weeks. His personal best being 17 years old was 7B! Facebook

Progress by Ulrike Bromberger (42) 

Click to Enlarge PictureUlrike Bromberger (42) who started climbing in 1991 is climbing better than ever as she the last two months have done two 8a's and three 7c+'. The last eight years she has made nice progress climbing some three times a week.

"I do not have a recipe, but in fact, I still see progress in my climbing career. I am happy. Let's wait an see if this was the summit. Keep going, have fun." Facebook

8B+ (C) and much more by Anthony Gullsten (19) 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnthony Gullsten has added ten boulders 8A and harder including Bernd Zangerl's Anam Cara in Silvretta for which he gives a personal grade of 8B+.

"Amazing day! It was minus degrees outside so the friction was perfect. Did the moves pretty fast and then sent on my fourth go from the beginning. Cool movement and sequence but a bit sharp."

The 19 year old fin has had a very strong progress the latest years and during the last 12 months he has done 73 boulders 8A and harder. He is 37 in the 8a game but without all his personal gradings, he would have been #3. Andy was #14 in the Boulder World Champion having done his preperation in Rocklands. Interview is coming up. Facebook

8a+ MP flash by Roland Hemetzberger 

Roland Hemetzberger has flashed the 170m De Hoabuchane, 8a+ in Lofer Alm. Fabian Hagenauer (17) gave all the valuable beta sothe most difficult part was actually walking down in the forest, 2.5 h instead of 0.5 h, as they forgot their headlamps. More info at their blog. Facebook

8b+ MP by Riccardo Scarian 

Click to Enlarge PictureRiccardo Scarian (43) established last month Shakti which is 200m 8b+ on Eagles Peak. "It is, put simply, a jewel, up splendid rock, offering climbing with varied from steep overhang to technical slabs, above an impressive voice in a wild yet at the same time relaxing environment."
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Riccardo born 1968 has previously put up several multi pitches and he is kind of a late bloomer having done many 8c+ and harder almost 40 years old. (c) Giampaolo Corona Facebook

8A by Brooke Raboutou (10) and other Team ABC Kids  (4)

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou has been with her Team ABC Kids in Hueco Tanks. Brooke Raboutou (10) who did her first 8b route being 9 year old has done her first 8A, Une Pointe de Bleau dans un Hueco. Big brother Shawn (13) did it second go and Megan Mascarenas (14) flashed it.

Click and scroll down to see an article about the amazing ABC Kids. Read about their Philosophy and Objectives etc. Facebook

8b Bigwall by Sonnie Trotter 

Planetmountain reports that Sonnie Trotter has done the first repeat of Leo Holding's 500m The Prophet, 8bR in Yosemite. Sonnie comments the three day ascent.

"I think it was the most savage and satisfying rock climb of my life. One of the hardest routes I have ever done. My first El Cap route ever. And I’m glad it’s over." Facebook

Five 8B's by Robin Mjelle 

Robin Mjelle has added five 8B's to his impressive list of hard boulders in Switzerland. In total he has done 17 8B boulders so the norwegian should be close to move into the 8B+ region. Streppenwolf video Facebook

9a by Jakob Schubert 

Jakob Schubert did also take the one hour drive down to Misja Pec where he did Martin Krpan, 9a. "Very soft for it's grade. 4th try this day, but tried it 2 years ago... nice after after party in misja pec! :)"

The next weekend the competition season ends in Barcelona and then the 20 year old will try some of the harder routes around Lleida. In April he did Papichulo, 9a+ in Oliana. Facebook

8b by Hannah Midtbř  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureHannah Midtbř has done her fourth 8b in 2011, Santa Linya in Santa Linya.

"Classic route! A crux on it's own to clip the anchor. Went through the moves a few times, then did it second redpoint attempt."

In 2008, being 18 year old, Hannah was #3 in the Euro Boulder Championship. Last year, she did two 8A's. In the game, Hannah is #13.

Magnus Midtbř who has done several 9a - 9b and who was #4 in the world champion this year, is Hannah's two year older brother. Facebook


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