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Review: Bouldering Essentials  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Flannagan is the author of Bouldering Essentials, "The complete guide to bouldering" and that is more or less what it is. It covers all the basic to advanced training and the focus is defining and describing everything. You can more or less start anywhere and start reading/learning.

The only thing, more or less, which is not detailed covered is ethics and grades. Although many nice pictures, it would have even easier to read if there were plenty more pictures explaining what the text say like for the glossary.

All-in-all, a good book for the ones who want an informative bouldering book that will make you understand everything the advanced boulderers are talking about during a bouldering session or trip.

My Limit  Facebook

Il mio Confine (My Limit) from OpenCircle on Vimeo.

Philippe Ribiere portrait  Facebook

Philippe Ribiere PRO CLIMBER from neil hart on Vimeo.

Angy Eiter retires from the comps  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRestjug has made an interview with Angy Eiter who has retired from the competition scene with the best ever stats: 4 times World Champion, 26 World Cups. During the end of 2004 and the beginning of 2007, she won 18 out of 22 WC's.

She won the last WC, the last World Championship and the last Euro Championship she entered. She has done two 8c+.

"When I climbed outside during the competition season, it was to get motivation. Sometimes you are so fed up with the structured training indoors that you just want to get out.

Unluckily, you can’t do that too much, because that you lose some fitness needed for competitions, so you have to stay in the gym. But for me, climbing on rock is not just focusing on the grades and the difficulty. It is more about being there with friends and completing projects I like regardless of the grade, focusing together on something.

The contradiction between route and boulder variations  Facebook

Why is it that climbers in general are skeptical when it comes to establishing short routes, link-ups, first anchors and tight lines when we see much worse examples in bouldering which get nice credits.

I mean, even the 8c+ anchor of Biography, like 30 m up, was taken out once the full 9a+ was established. Several years ago, I suggested that we should add first anchors also for high quality easier routes, but most disagreed.

In bouldering there are sometimes three different start positions with three different names and grades. I mean we talk about adding 2-3 moves giving it yet another new grade and the same goes for adding different tops.

I should also underline that I think it is just great to add or eliminate moves to make my personal challenge and training more interesting. But giving it a new name and grade seems not relevant especially as, sometimes, the same guys says it is bad ethics adding a 10 m link up etc.

Boulder moved to Portland for a day  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureLast Saturday some 350 competitors flocked to The Circuit Bouldering Gym for the 3rd annual Portland Boulder Rally. With a $10k cash purse on the line, the field was stacked and the battle was fierced but in a friendly atmosphere typical of the NW. 5 h video from the live-streaming including interviews with all top climbers and complete finals coverage with commentary by Brian Runnells and Max Zolotukhin.

1. Alex Puccio - James Webb
2. Angie Payne - Carlo Traversi
3. Nina Williams/Alex Johnson - Jon Cardwell/Paul Robinson

During the three hours qually, the Top-5 out of 139 boulders scored and in the final it was more like the IFSC WC format.

Chloe Mandell, Event Director, "The event was everything we were hoping for and more! We were so stoked to celebrate the bouldering community with everyone and really push the limits of a single day indoor comp. Next year's PBR is going to be insane!"

IFSC Boulder Comp summary 2013  Facebook

8A+ FA by Dorothea Karalus  Facebook

"Moroni told the truth. It is time to apologize..."  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureThe rumour, spread by Desnivel, saying that both Enzo Oddo and Gabri Moroni were responsible for bolt chopping actions in Brazil was wrong. (c) Eliseu Frechou

Enzo Oddo has now written a blog describing why he chopped the bolts from the crack showing no regrets. Already three weeks ago Moroni told 8a that, "he was not even at the scene when it happened", which was communicated through the 8a forum.

Also the Brazilian climbing federation has officially accused both Oddo and Moroni for the chopping but the saddest thing is all personal attacks and threats both have received in different forums and also on Facebook.

The last post in the 8a forum ends with, "Moroni told the truth. It is time to apologize..."

The 8a standpoint:
1. You should not bolt perfect cracks especially if they are located on trad crags.
2. You should not chop bolts from established routes. There are much better ways to communicate the message in a friendly tone avoiding more controversies in the climbing community.
3. Please show more respect in the forums and do not spread rumours.

First 8c+ by Eva López (42)  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureEva López the famous trainer and inventer of the Transgression hangboard, has done her first 8c+, Potemkin in Cuenca which she has bolted. (c) Javipec

Already in 1999, she did her first 8b and being 35 she did her first 8c. Here is her trainingblog. More info to come of this remarkable effort that once again shows the uniqueness of climbing when it comes to age and performance for a physical sport.

"We bolted the route in 2008, but apart from some weeks in 2011-12 I couldn't work it seriously until this summer.
For me, Potemkin at first seemed to have some hard moves, but what allows you to do it is developing lots of endurance. The style is typical for hard routes in Cuenca: steep, long moves, scarce footholds and lots of sika to make up for the awful rock.

Edelrid's 8.9 mm Swift - Extreame sport climbing rope  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureEdelrid has been producing ropes for 150 years and in 1853 they invented the kermantel rope which revolutionised the climbing world and in 1964, they developed the first dynamic rope.

In 2013, their 8.6 mm Corbie won the Gold award at Friedrichshafen and their 6.9 mm Flycatcher is the skinniest and lightest twin rope in the world. Their second most extreme sport climbing rope is Swift at 8.9 mm which you can order up to 200 m length.

In the beginning it is scary just to tie in and before taking my first fall I did confirm the 8.9 mm sign on Grigri2. Climbing wise it is of course more convenient and the weight difference from an ordinary rope is 15 % but measuring rope drag high up there clipping the last bolts, the difference is of course much more.

The 8.9 mm Swift has all three Edelrid Shields; Thermo, Dry and Pro, guaranteeing the highest quality. Edelrid is also the first rope manufacturer who has gotten the environmental Blue Design label. The one questioned draw back is of course durability. How much shorter is the life span compared to a less extreme rope?

Edelrid actually says that the Swift is, "Not suitable for working routes or top roping, meaning in fact that this is your rope for your onsight trip or for the final redpoint. OK, I am not the guy taking most or the longest falls instead I have used it for my top rope sessions and I have not seen any unusual bad signs of wear compared the normal rope. So for me, the only draw back is in fact the price, as it is one of the more costly Edelrid ropes, but maybe that is what you need for a personal grade record?

Reflexions from TNF Kalymnos Festival  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureHaving been together and talking with most of the the athletes during TNA Kalymnos Festival, here are some general positive reflections. (c) John Koullias

1. Almost no competition feeling. Everyone is sharing beta and cheering each other. They are like kids in the kindergarten.

2. Most planes or hopes to also do multi-pitch climbing in 2014. It seems part of the game is to try as many different disciplines of climbing as possible.

3. Several have plans to travel and open up new crags like Melissa Le Neve who is next going to Turkey for the 2014 Petzl Roc Trip, Klemen Becan who goes to Jordan in december and James Pearson/Caroline Ciavaldini who do it all the time.

4. Most do not follow any training program during summer and most also said they during the last years have been training less structured during winter. Anyhow, campus boarding is something many have on their scheme.

5. Many said that they do not plan or prioritize competitions but that they most likely will do some WCs in 2014. Only Anna Stöhr planned to do them all and Johanna Ernst will stop completely.

6. Most of the grade suggestions given by the route setting team were considered as sand bags so we saw several upgrades.

7. Caroline Ciavaldini, who won, used headlamp during the warming up to be able to take advantage of the best conditions when the second day started at 08.00.

8. The media professionality are at the highest level and sending Sasha DiGulian some follow up questions during the night, you get the answers, typed in her iPhone, before breakfast the next morning. Alex Megos did a very good job in the live-streaming interview.

Swedish gym skips grades with +  Facebook

In most gyms around the world, boulders are not graded instead only colors are used to separate difficulty and often only around 5 colors are used. This has of course been done as it is very hard to give accurate grades and also to take out that focus.

Now Klätterlabbet in Göteborg has taken out the + in the grades to get closer to the thoughts on how to deal with difficulty in bouldering. I think this is just a very good idea and it goes in line what 8a has been saying for several years. I bet it will not take long until most gyms around the globe have skipped the +. In the long run this will have a geat impact also on rock as the importance of using detailed gradings by the community will be greatly reduced. What a nice future and it will be so much easier and better for the media as quality can have greater importance when selecting what news to report.

The Climber's Culture - Teaser  Facebook

Climbing is a lifestyle just like other "lifestyle sports". It gives us all meaning to our lives in so many ways. We are a tribe with ethics, style, vernacular, and many other attributes that creates a climber's culture. All of us have a different approach to the world of rock climbing, but we are all share that one thing in common. Enjoy a short 6 part series of The Climber's Culture.

The Climber's Culture - Teaser from Gregory Packs on Vimeo.

Wave bolt solves most bolting problems  Facebook

Mammut climbing gear presentation  Facebook

Just 24 male and 20 female in China Lead WC  (1) Facebook

The starting list for the Lead World Cup this weekend in China shows only 44 participants. Japan sends 10, China 8, Austria 7 and France 4 guys. No other country has more than two competitors listed.

Although the number of climbers and the indoor gyms have increased very much the last few years, the number of participaters is decreasing. It seems we in 2013, will get a lower number of climbers taking part in at least all but one events since the WC started in 1991. The general global trend on a national perspective is more or less the same.

One reason is of course that the comps is spread around the world but what is it more that can be done to increase the interest. I mean, if it not would have been for the great live streaming and 8a, the media coverage would have been almost none.

The best possible explenation I can come up with is in fact that the best guys are to good. What should be done?

The best headlamp out there: X-Sun from Mammut  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureBattery max 40 h
Range max 200 m
Lumen max 950
Weight 130/270 g

The specifi- cations for the Mammut X-Sun suggest that it is the best head lamp out there. The light is so strong that the guys you meet while running or cycling will complain until you use the weakest out of three modes. It actually also have a fourth, emergency boost mode including a function to prevent accidential switching on.

More info at Mammut. The price is around Euro 250

Sean Mc Coll killing the 24h du Mur D'oloron  Facebook

The 2013 edition of the 24h du Mur has been a huge success again, with great climbing, amazing after (in the meanwhile ?!) party and more than 4000 spectators coming visit the Oloron wall during the comp.
Sean Mc Coll dominance was obvious, even with very strong concurrent like Felix Neumarker and Kevin Aglae. Just think about qualifying with 2x8a+ onsight, an 8b onsight, an 8b flash and an 8c flash... and then falling with the final jug of another 8c (onsight), all under 30 hours...
Mathilde Becera won the woman comp over Alizée Dufraisse. While both of the girls topped the final route, Mathilde qualified with a better scorecard.
Watch the comp wrap-up with nice words from Dani Andrada !

Mammut Ropes Production  Facebook

2014: Competition focus and 2015: Flatanger 9b+ and 9c's  (21) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Norweigian Climbing Magazine presents a mini-interview with Adam Ondra by Henning Wang who also took the picture, showing the crux of Iron Curtain 9b.

" I have started studying, so my plan is to get down one project in my home climbing area, make a couple of short trips and get ready for the next season, which is going to be all about the comps!

... in 2015 I will spend the whole summer in Flatanger again. Too many projects left behind, at least four projects waiting to be completed, ranging from 9b+ to 9c. I will have to train a bit I guess."

In total, Adam put up 11 new routes in Flatanger and asking which are the best, he first mentioned Berntsenbanden extension 8a and last Art of Flight 8c+/9a. "Everybody is going to overwhelmed by its features. When you grab those holds, you don't know whether you are dreaming or if it is true.

Adidas Rockstar by Udo Neuman  (1) Facebook

Odenwald en bloc Trailor  Facebook

Odenwald en bloc Trailer from CSfilms on Vimeo.

Feeling so high in Leavenworth  Facebook

Feeling So High from Shawn Seifert on Vimeo.

Southern norweigian bouldering  Facebook

Tĺnes 2013 from Jeppe Gruner on Vimeo.

Lead WC after five events  Facebook

1. Sachi Amma 360 - Jain Kim 445
2. Ramon J Puigblanque 340 - Mina Markovic 415
3. Jakob Schubert 323 - Momoka Oda 287

It can be noted that only 15 male and female have participated in at least three out of the first five events. Further more, it is almost exactely the same guys at the top of the ranking beside the one that have started to compete. Complete results

Ueli Steck FA solo of Annapurra (8 091 m) via the 2 500 m south face in 28 h  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbing has the full story of the amazing 28 hours up and down, by Ueli Steck, of the south face of Annapurra which is a 2 500 m wall, summiting at 8 093 meters. Steck followed the unclimbed Lafaille line from 1992, known for the tradgedy when his parter fell at 7 000 m.

Steck: "I think I finally found my high-altitude limit. If I climb anything harder than that, I think I will kill myself. To climb something technical in a cool style like that is what I wanted to do."" More amazing pics and interesting comments at Patitucciphoto.

Speed Lead Winners in Korea  (4) Facebook

1. Mina Markovic - Sachi Amma
2. Jain Kim - Hyunbin Bin
3. Momoka Oda - Sean McColl

Both the winners won as they climbed faster as they had the same result on all four routes. A total of 17 male and 9 female topped both qualification routes and if we exclude the Koreans, 80 % made double tops. Two weeks ago, also in Russia the quallis turned out way to easy.

TNF Kalymnos Festival "Competition" results  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlthough there were not what so ever a competition feeling at the crag here are the results where the winners won Euro 3 000 and a total of Euro 15 000 was divided.

It should be noted that all climbers shared beta and was chearing each other just like any normal day at the crag. It all turned out like a perfect show and challenge.

1. Caroline Ciavaldini 3T:4
2. Nina Caprez 3T:6
3. Barbara Zangerl 3T:6
4. Sasha Digiulian 3T:7

1. Alex Megos 4T:5
2. Kilian Fischhuber 4T:6
3. Daniel Woods 4T:7
4. Klemen Becan 4T8

Complete results. Pics© Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

Lost in North America: Ep. 4 - Yanks Crank in Yosemite Valley  Facebook

Sasha Digulian never stops exploring  (4) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureHow was the first 48 h on Kalymnos?
It has been amazing! This place is spectacular. The ambiance is incredible- there is fabulous rock, beautiful scenery, delicious food, and good energy. I couldn't ask for more except more time here! Just having such short time is tough! I love this place and I hope to return soon.

How have you been training lately?
Since I came back from my multi-pitch climbing in the Dolomites I have just been training indoors like two-three hours five times a week. I have been incorporating campus board and dynamic training to my routine with my coach Alexi Thomakos.

I go to Columbia University in Manhattan, NYC. I am studying Nonfiction writing and Business. The school is renowned and known for being rigorous. The academics are tough and I need to study a lot. My time between training, events, travel, studying, and friends is limited but when you are motivated by your passions, you find time for it all. I love living both realms of life- climbing and school. Just professionally climbing is not enough satisfaction for me because I want to be a more faceted human being than just a rock climber. I am moved by many new endeavors and I would like to push myself to full capacity in each area I endeavor.

What are the plans for 2014, what about doing some comps?
I will go to Malaga in January to climb in Southern Spain. I will have a few sporadic competitions mainly in the US, some events, and when I have free time, I will make weekend trips to the rock. I am still motivated by competitions sometimes but more of my focus is for training to perform well outside. This summer was a big summer for me and now I am overcoming a rest period to begin a new cycle- to train for Southern Spain! Before Spain, though, I will do 2 weeks of skiing in Canada with my family over Christmas. This is routine for me =]
As competition climbing seems to diverge more and more from outdoor climbing, I think that you really need to concentrate on training for one or the other. I will always be much more driven for an outdoor project, but I will probably want to train and compete in the 2014 World Championships in Gijon, Spain. I was unable to compete in Paris at the last world Championships due to my finger injury (I ruptured the a2 pulley).

The big numbers for TNF Kalymnos Festival  Facebook

The second edition of TNF Kalymnos Festival has in every way been a bigger event. A total of 540 climbers registered to compete in the Open and Big Marathon. Even so, there were not crowded at the crags as the climbers were spread out on almost 900 routes on 24 sectors.

Tiziana Di Gioia, in charge of the event, "As we made the event bigger this year it was important to also increase the number of sectors. We have received great feedback also for the live-streaming and tonight and tomorrow several presentations and including movies by several athletes. For 2014, we aim for further improvements of the event."

In total more than 30 journalist covers the event and TNF have some 70 guys working including 30 locals. The mayor said yesterday that this event has a great impact for all Kalymnians. Yesterday, he received a new stretcher from Kong that hopefully will not be used. Also TNF has been cooperative to the new local rescue team.

Caroline Ciavaldini starts to explore  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Ciavaldini is in the lead after the first day of the Kalymnos Festival. She has flashed two 8a's. She also worked, and did, all of the moves on an 8b. Her plan is to warm up early and go for an attempt directly in the morning at 08.00 CET. This is exactly when the live streaming starts. This way she can take advantage of the best conditions.

What have you been up to lately?
We moved out from our rented house in September and since we have been living in our van which will be our home for a long time and I we just got married here on Kalymnos.

Tell us about that surprice party?
I was out together with James (Pearson) for checking out possibilities for the next year and when we returned to the hotel I noticed that several of my friends and also my family were here. I did not understand anything. It was just a very nice surprice and even my favorite band was playing. It took me 15 minutes before I understood something special was going to happend and then the "priest" did show up.

What is the next plan?
We are going with our van to Turkey to check out a new place and possibly bolt. Then we go to Antalaya where we have been giving a newly bolted multi-pitch as a wedding gift.

Later we are going to the Philippines for an exploration trip. I was searching the web to see if there was any virgin rock and the potential seems great and We have got some help from local climbers. It will be so fun and I hope this is something we can continue doing for several years.

No sight but onsight  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureKobayashi Koichiro was the Para Blind World Champion two years ago and now he is on Kalymnos taking part in the TNF Festival. Next stop is Spain where he will meet the Orginizers and IFSC to discuss rules for the next world champion.

"We need to have better categories and for the blind guys we want to do the routes onsight without having coaches screaming what to do. The coaches use a voice recorder for describing every hold. We listen to this and then we memorize trying to visualize how to move.

I started to loose my sight 17 years ago when I was 28 and since a couple of years I can only see light. Climbing gives me possibilities to explore different things in my life. I go on road trips every year meeting people, eating good and try different types of climbing.

What is the best thing with climbing?
Difficult question. Flash is of course better than redpoint but it is very hard even if I have a good coach giving beta like, "jug 2 o'clock". I like to inspire other and now this is my life. I travel around Japan and have lectures as well as have training classes. There are more than 100 low vision or blind climbers in my country.

If blind people can take the challenge to climb they will get many more possibilities to get more challenges in life compared to just sit at home or stay in the city. It is hard but this is how I live my life and it is beautiful.

A great start of TNF Kalymnos Festival  (5) Facebook

The first day of The North Face Kalymnos Festival started in the best way and all the 16 athletes were impressed about the quality of the routes and we saw many good climbing efforts.

The most exciting moments were when Caroline Ciavaldini flashed her first route actually falling just as she had clipped the anchor and when Alex Megos onsighted an 8b+ without tick marks and chalk. It was just like any ordinary day at the crag with the nicest spirit even if they are competing for Euro 15 000.

The live-streaming worked nicely where the bolters could guide the viewers throughout the sequences. On saturday 08.00 CET the live-streaming starts for another five hours of great show and it will be action from the first minute as the climbers want to take advantage of the best conditions.

Tomorrow the Big and Open Marathon start where climbers will, over two days, do as many routes as possible and then it is time for the big party.

Megos puts on a great show on Kalymnos  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlexander Megos did the four competition routes in five tries over three hours. Gabri Moroni who come from Frankenjura where he had done three 9a's in five days. "He is from another planet." In fact, more or less all athletes used these words responding to, What do you think of Megos climbing?

How is it to climb with all these top climbers and how did you find the routes?
It is strange for me, some years these guys were my heros. The routes were nice and I had the advantage of already been on the island for more than two weeks.

So have you open any new routes?
Actually, that has been my focus. I have opened 10 routes between 8a+ and 8c+ and there are still many to do.

How have you been training lately?
Since May I have just been climbing. My trainers are becomming more my coaches helping me out with, let say, mental training and general guidance in my climbing life. But this winter we will do some hard training again.

Brazilian 8c+ FA  Facebook

"De Sangue e Pedra - A viagem" from Peruzzo on Vimeo.

8a multi-pitch FA  Facebook

HYSTRIX - Michi Wohlleben & Matteo Giglio from Michi Wohlleben on Vimeo.

11.00 - 13.00 on thursday and 08.00-13.00 on saturday  (6) Facebook

Woods  Facebook

"It is fantastic. It is the future as it enables climbers around the world to share what we likes the best. I love watching live-streaming and just hope the signal will not break.

Imagine how cool it would be to check live streaming when climbers around the world are trying their project. I hope to be able to stream my projects in the future and if so it could be cool to have a daily list on 8a where we can see our friends trying their projects.

What is next on the list for you?

I have some projects to close but I think that I will gradually move to sport and trad I think where there are more room for improvements. But first I would like to establish an 8C+, my pyramid is wide enough for going for the next level.

I had planned to go for Jumbo Love (9b) but my partner could not do it so now I am thinking of going to Spain to try some of the hardest routes in the world.

Daniel Woods going for trad, sport and 8C+ and streaming  (14) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSo what do you like doing a competition on rock that is streamed live?
"It is fantastic. It is the future as it enables climbers around the world to share what we like the best. I love watching live-streaming and just hope the signal will not break.

Imagine how cool it would be to check live streaming when climbers around the world are trying their project. I hope to be able to stream my projects in the future and if so it could be cool to have a daily list on 8a where we can see our friends trying their projects.

What is next on the list for you?
I have some projects to finish but I think that I will gradually move to sport and trad I think where there are more room for improvements. But first I would like to establish an 8C+, my pyramid is wide enough for going for the next level.

I am going to Indian Creen to do some trad climbing. I had planned to go for Jumbo Love (9b) but my partner could not do it so now I am thinking of going to Spain to try some of the hardest routes in the world. I hope to take my bouldering experience and to apply it to sport and trad.

Kilian Fischhuber - The best WC boulderer the last 10 years  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSo what do you like doing a competition on rock streamed-lived
I think it more or less will be like normal days at the crag when you try to do the the most routes in less attempts. Many of us are used to compete in front of cameras and I do not think it will be annoying.

It think it will be great to watch and if it is like this for a couple of days it is just fun we have plenty time to climb alone on rock.

No specific plans but we would like to discover and develop new boulder areas and also do some alpine sport climbing. We are a nice group of people who compete and I plan to continue but maybe missing couple of World Cups next year but I will train hard but more effectively.

Interview with Barbara Zangerl  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSome few weeks ago, Barbara Zangerl completed the extreme multi-pitch trilogy in the Alps by sending in chronological order 'The End of Silence' (8b+ max.), 'Silbergeier' (8b+ max.) y 'Des Kaisers Neue Kleider' (8b+ max).

Esteban Diez Fernández had a short talk with this austrian climber on the trilogy consecution, the comparison amongst these routes, etc.. Pic© Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

TNF  Facebook

Adam Ondra's two 8C+  (5) Facebook

The story of the first route graded 8 in Spain  Facebook

Four in Font - Bouldering in Fontainbleau  Facebook

Wild Country recall  Facebook

For the safety of all of our customers Wild Country are issuing an immediate recall of certain batches of Wild Country Classic Rocks and Anodised Rocks.
If you own any Wild Country Classic Rocks and/or Anodised Rocks that were purchased any time from January 2010 onwards Wild Country would advise that you visit our website to check whether your product is from one of the affected batches.
You can go direct to our Rocks Recall page here

8b+ MP by Riccardo Scarian  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRiccardo Scarian (43) established last month Shakti which is 200m 8b+ on Eagles Peak. "It is, put simply, a jewel, up splendid rock, offering climbing with varied from steep overhang to technical slabs, above an impressive voice in a wild yet at the same time relaxing environment."
Full story

Riccardo born 1968 has previously put up several multi pitches and he is kind of a late bloomer having done many 8c+ and harder almost 40 years old. (c) Giampaolo Corona

8A by Brooke Raboutou (10) and other Team ABC Kids  (4) Facebook

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou has been with her Team ABC Kids in Hueco Tanks. Brooke Raboutou (10) who did her first 8b route being 9 year old has done her first 8A, Une Pointe de Bleau dans un Hueco. Big brother Shawn (13) did it second go and Megan Mascarenas (14) flashed it.

Click and scroll down to see an article about the amazing ABC Kids. Read about their Philosophy and Objectives etc.

8b Bigwall by Sonnie Trotter  Facebook

Planetmountain reports that Sonnie Trotter has done the first repeat of Leo Holding's 500m The Prophet, 8bR in Yosemite. Sonnie comments the three day ascent.

"I think it was the most savage and satisfying rock climb of my life. One of the hardest routes I have ever done. My first El Cap route ever. And I’m glad it’s over."

Five 8B's by Robin Mjelle  Facebook

Robin Mjelle has added five 8B's to his impressive list of hard boulders in Switzerland. In total he has done 17 8B boulders so the norwegian should be close to move into the 8B+ region. Streppenwolf video

9a by Jakob Schubert  Facebook

Jakob Schubert did also take the one hour drive down to Misja Pec where he did Martin Krpan, 9a. "Very soft for it's grade. 4th try this day, but tried it 2 years ago... nice after after party in misja pec! :)"

The next weekend the competition season ends in Barcelona and then the 20 year old will try some of the harder routes around Lleida. In April he did Papichulo, 9a+ in Oliana.

8b by Hannah Midtbř  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureHannah Midtbř has done her fourth 8b in 2011, Santa Linya in Santa Linya.

"Classic route! A crux on it's own to clip the anchor. Went through the moves a few times, then did it second redpoint attempt."

In 2008, being 18 year old, Hannah was #3 in the Euro Boulder Championship. Last year, she did two 8A's. In the game, Hannah is #13.

Magnus Midtbř who has done several 9a - 9b and who was #4 in the world champion this year, is Hannah's two year older brother.

8b+ OS revenge for Ramonet and Edu  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque was only #11 in Kranj as he was timed out in the semi and Edu Marin was #17.

Instead of the finals on Sunday they drove down to Misja Pec where they both onsighted Millenium, 8b+ which they both said was pretty easy.

In 2009, Edu onsighted three 8c's and in 2006, he won a Lead WC. The double world champion, Ramonet has onsighted an 8c+ this year. (c) Heiko Wilhelm

8B+ by Ondřej Nevělík  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureOndřej Nevělík has done Toni Lamprecht's classic The Dagger, 8B+ in Cresciano which Dave Graham added a sit start to in 2005, creating The Story of Two worlds, 8C.

"A dream comes true! In my head ever since I saw it 4years ago. My style, feet first all the way... only 4 full climbing days so no rest, 4 days on: 3 days on The Dagger and last day a 7C OS, 8A+ (Video), 8A with no skin, wish could stay longer, now back to reality:(" (c) Ramil Schneider

9a+ by Adam Taylor  (1) Facebook

DPM reports that Adam Taylor has done the first ascent of Southern Smoke direct, 9a+ in Red River Gorge. The direct version adds an 8B boulder start to the 8c+ route. Adam who previously has established one 8c+, that got upgraded to 9a, has worked the 9a+ route for two years. Some days ago, he finished with 60 pull-ups after having done the 8c+ version.

4th 8a+ by Philipp Gaßner (11)  Facebook

Philipp Gaßner (10) has done his fourth 8a+ in Frankenjura, SMS. Video of doing 8a+ being 10 years old.

8A by Stefanie Mathar again  Facebook

Stefanie Mathar has done her second 8A, Beefy Gecko in Bishop. Last year she did her first 7C (+) and this year she has already done six 7C+ and two 8A's putting her as #7 in the Game.

Two 8c+ by Ben Spannuth in USA  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureBen Spannuth who had a personal best of 8b+ before he went to Spain in august, where he stepped up to 9a, has done two 8c+ in Red River Gorge.

He graduated in May and trained harder than ever during the summer which seems to have paid of reaching a new level. The 8c+' he did within 45 minutes and he has also onsighted two 8a+ etc putting him as #7 in the Game.

Gu is on fire  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has added Sur le fil, 8B+ in Switz making it 17 boulders 8B and harder during the last two months. "Again second Ascent of a Fred Nicole Masterpiece. This boulders need to be tried more they are amazing, same quality than in Ticino!!!"

Here Gu comments his extreme progress,...I felt that I have my body under control at a new level...(c)

8B FA by Stefan Rasmussen (40)  (6) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Rasmussen the man behind almost all hard core bouldering around Västervik has opened Gypsy heart, 8B.

"I took a chance, drove one hour and it turned out to be perfect conditions with four degrees. Many youngsters opt for warmer conditions so I mainly climb alone. I have another 20 hard boulders in the area for this winter season." Video (c) Dominik Hadwiger

8A by Mirko Caballero (10)  (11) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero has had a great trip to Hueco Tanks where he among other things did his first 8A, Schwerer Gustov. "I love bouldering, but started to rope climb as well in 2011. I train in the Gym, but just to get strong. My passion is climbing outdoors meeting new people and climbing with them.

8C by Sean McColl before Lead WC  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSean McColl who was second in the last Lead WC has prepared for the Kranj WC this weekend only by bouldering in Switzerland. Yesterday he did Big Paw, 8C in Chironico to his long list the last week.

"This is my hardest boulder to date and the line is majestic! I found the the boulder fit me very well, although the short person beta was very hard. I had great conditions and I'm in the best shape of my life. A very successful Switzerland bouldering trip!

I have a rest day today, then tomorrow I'll try to finish "The Dagger", then maybe one more day of climbing, or maybe two rest days before the WC."

9a FA by Manu Romain  Facebook

Manu Romain reports that he has done the FA of a 9a which is a link-up of a 8c+, 8a and 8b on La Roche de Rame. In the 2011 Lead WC, Manu is #4 and the lasts years he was, #7 and #6. Since 2009, his worst result of 22 WC's was #12"

8A+ and 8A by Conny Matthes  Facebook

Conny Matthes has had a great day in Frankenjura having done Rothauttraverse, 8A+ and Billiardtraverse, 8A.

Chelsea Rude blogs Journey vs Result  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChelsea Rude who earlier this year was #17 and #11 in a Boulder and Lead WC in USA, has written a nice blog about the mental journey she took to do Ixeia, 8b+ in Rodellar which 8a reported some weeks ago.

"I sat and looked at the scenery, I paid attention to the birds flying in the sky, how the sun somehow always managed to make everything in Spain look orange, all the rock that surrounded me, and I also listened to all of the other people in the area climbing a’muerte. I realized that at that moment I couldn’t be in a better location or position."

8B+ by Sean McColl in 1.5 hours  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSean McColl, who was #2 in the last Lead WC, has changed arena and prepars for the next Lead WC by 10 days bouldering in Switzerland. "I don't think I'll lose any endurance while here as I'm only here for 2 weeks. I'll maybe gain some power and a nice break from training 4 days a week on platic!" (c) C.Loury/Planetgrimpe

During the first day he has done five classic 7C+ to 8A+ and New Base Line, 8B+. "Took me 1.5 hours on my second day after trying it for 15 minutes on the first day. I found the problem fit my style very well and I've always wanted to try it. I'm so happy that it came together so fast and thanks to Daniel, Paul and Courtney for the encouragement!"

7C+ by Isabelle Faus (18)  Facebook

Isabelle Faus has done Tres de las Quintas, 7C+ in Chattanooga.

Gu sends again, again and again...  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has done his 14th 8B and harder the last 2 months by doing Phase 2, 8B+ in Sustenpass.

"Physical & mental warring, felt about 6 times at the last move before i stuck it. Really cold day with rain everywhere around us! Quite lucky... Swiss is having so many nice areas outside of Ticino. Many rocks left to be climbed!"

9a FA by Cedric Lachat  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNina Caprez reports that her boyfriend Cedric Lachat has done an extension to Speed in Voralpsee for which he proposes 9a. (c) Stefan Schlumpf

Speed was put up in 1995 by Beat Kammerlander as an 8c+ "but anywhere else would be graded 9a". It does not end at the top so Cedric continued up the 8b extension of Lucy to the left.

"So often he felt because his foot were slipping or other stupid things. Also it was really hard to memorize all the foot holds in this 30m line. Every hold looks kind of similar and the fact that he tried once per year, he forgot everything! that's Cedric!;-)"

9a by Felix Knaub (19)  Facebook

UKC reports that Felix Knaub has done the ultra classic Action Direct, 9a in Frankenjura which Wolfgang Güllich put up in 1991. Felix did his first 9a when he was 17 year old, Matador also in Frankenjura.

8B again by Guntram Jörg  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has done his ninth 8B in a month, Bourguignon in Murgtal. "Sec. Ascent, First established by Fred Nicole. Mega compression climb all the way up. One of the best, Fred was also there and told me some beta and i crushed it before it got dark, took me about half an hour but its 4 shure a hard one!" Gu comments his extreme progress lately.

New 8c, 18 pitches on Madagascar  (5) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureUpdate: The news seems to be based on some misunderstanding since they actually just did the pitches up to 7c. The rest they aided. Planetmountain reports that Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur in August have established Dreams of Youth on Tsaranoro Atsimo which is a 700m, 18 pitches including one 8c and three 8b+'s. (c) Kletterzene

Last October, Adam Ondra established Mora Mora 8c 700 m and repeated a 600m 8b and a 380m 8c in the same spectacular area.

Caldwell twitter from snowy El Cap  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureTommy Caldwell twitters from his El Cap 30 pitches project where he already has spent a week with his wife.

"That was a intense one today on pitch 12. First I pulled a few pitons and took big falls. Then I broke a few footholds. Five tries later I finally had the new sequence through the bottom worked out. Then I fell at the very end... Twice. Temps never got above freezing. Eight tries in all and no send. The good news is that I am feeling strong. This one just wasn't in the cards for me today."

8c+ by Dylan Barks (16)  Facebook

Dylan Barks has jumped two grades and done Joe Kinder's Southern smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. In the -95 ranking game he is #7.

8a+ OS by Ievgeniia Kazbekova (15)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIevgeniia Kazbekova has onsighted Super Priapos 8a+ and Fun de Chichunne 8a at Kalymnos. In 2010, she won the Youth worlds and she did her first 8b+ being 13 years old.

Her mother Nataliya has a silver and bronze in the Boulder World Championship. Her father Serik was #2 in the Boulder WC in 1999 and in the world championship in 2005, he was #4 in bouldering and #7 in Lead. (c) Anna Piunova Gallery

Speed bouldering by Gu  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg continues his rampage in Switzerland and during three days he did five 8A+ and three 8B in Sustenpass and the amazing thing is that he did each one in less than 15 minutes.

"Probably this days have been the last possible climbing days before the snow is coming. The conditions have been perfect." (c) Martin Keller

8A+ flash by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet  Facebook

Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has had a good week where he first did two 8B's in Font, then he flashed La Pelle, 8A+ in Cresciano and he also was #2 in IMS Cup after Ondra but ahead of Fischhuber.

9a FA by Gabri Moroni in China  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureGabri Moroni has done the FA of Coup de Bambou, 9a in Getu Valley and he is #7 in the game. "Great experience trying it with the international homies Enzo,Dave,Mickey,Jon,Gé!! Sent on my last day in China!" China blog and video by Gabri.

This was the fifth 9a for the very active boulder WC climber who got the bronze in the Euro Championship being 17 year old. In 2008 he was #4 and in 2009 he was #3 in the Boulder WC. (c) Beau Kahler

8c for the 40m Century Crack roof  (16) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureOne month ago Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall climbed the 40 meter Century Crack in pink point style meaning the gear was pre placed. It was aided in 2001 and then 9a climber Stevie Haston started to project it calling it Century crack and estimated it to be 9a or harder.

No grade was suggested but after they had done several of the hardest cracks in USA in the weeks that followed they suggested 8c. From, ""As many people know, Pete and I spent 2 years slogging our guts out in a crack cellar underneath my house.

We trained so specifically for Century Crack – we had an almost exact replica of the whole route and we trained....and trained.... and trained.... We did over 17,000ft of Century Crack climbing in 2 years, which equates to having already climbed it 42 times each!"

Five 8a's Cathy Wagner (46)  Facebook

Cathy Wagner has during the last month done four 8a's and Je hais les gosses, 8a+ in Briançonnais. During the last year the 46 year old has done 17 routes 8a or harder.

7C+ by Anne Gray (49)  Facebook

Anne Gray has done Air tronic, 7C+ at Plex. "Now that put a smile on my face." When she was 42, she did her first 8A out of three and in December she turns 50.

Caldwell attempting the world hardest? MP  (4) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureTommy Caldwell is right now up on El Cap trying to do the Dawn Wall - Mescalito project which he has worked with Kevin Jorgeson since 2007. The project goes up on the blankest sector of El Capitain and includes some 30 pitches out of which seven pitches around 8c .

Kevin injured his ankle two weeks ago so Tommy is up there with his wife. Old videos and her Twitter reports by Tommy. Climbing presenteda 35 page uncut interview last year. (c) "Working through pitch 10 this morning. Hope to send tonight!!"

8b OS by David Firnenburg (16)  (1) Facebook

David Firnenburg has during a couple of days in Osp/Misja Pec onsighted Bitka s stalaktiti 8b, one 8a+ and two 8a's. In the ranking game the 17 year old is #15.

8c+ by Ruben Firnenburg (14)  Facebook

Ruben Firnenburg has done Sympathy for the Devil, 8c+ in Frankenjura which is a, "Nice combination of "Queel dich du Sauu" and "Black is basic", mainly crimps."

8c FA MP by Dani Andrada  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePetzl reports from their very succesfull Roc trip in Getu China that Dani Andrada has made the first ascent of Corazon de Ensueno, 8c. (c) Sam Bič

Dani who is the who has put up mo´st hard core routes in the world, says, "This is definitely the best climb I have ever created." First he spent 11 days of setting up the eight pitches 7c+ to 8c and then he worked the route for three days.

7th 8b by Tito Traversa (10)  Facebook

Tito Traversa has done his seventh 8b, Sarsifal in Tetto di Sarre. His first 8b (+) he did when he was 9 year old.

8c+ by Jolly Lamberti (46)  Facebook

Planetmountain reports that Jolly Lamberti has done the first repeat of Debolezza e disonore, 8c+ at Grotti which was opened by Fabrizio Peri. Jolly (46) is a training guru from Italy who currently is projecting a 9a+.

8B+ by Alban Besnier  Facebook

Alban Besnier has made a nice personal best doing the first repetition of Julien Nadiras Le Clash, 8B+ in Rioupéroux. Video

8A+ by Therese Johansen  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureTherese Johansen reports on her blog that she has done Pura Vida, 8A+ in Magic Wood in snowy conditions. "Must have been tailor made for me... YES I love to crimp!!!(and hate heel hooking)." It was put up by Bernd Zangerl in 2003 as an 8B and this was the fourth female ascent.

Michi Wohlleben 17 MP in Morocco  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMichael Wohlleben gives us a story from Taghia Valley in Morocco. "After A few easy routes I met Toni Arbones (chief of Camping in Siurana) he told me that he bolted a route together with the big Legend Kurt Albert."

3 hours approach and then the 17 pitches, Antro.po.cene up to 8a, which Toni opened last month and then Michi made the first repeat - Very nice video.

8b+ by Kristina Ondra  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChechclimbing reports that Kristina Ondra has done her first 8b+, Kudlanka at Moravsky Kras. Newsworthy is also that the her father has done his first 8a although he has been climbing for more than 25 years. So if his son also is a late bloomer, Adam will do 9c+ at his age. (c) Pepe Piechowicz

8b by Lena Herrmann (17)  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureLena Herrmann has done Riesenslalom Direkt, 8b and SMS, 8a+ in Frankenjura and she is #3 in the junior game.

"Fast ascent. Checked it out maybe 3 times, then I did a try and the next GO was the ascent.I think that's the reason why I did it so fast:
The rock was full of SPIDERS.! and there is nothing which is more disgusting.! So I didn't want to climb between them once more. That made my climb ;-)"

8C FA again by Dave Graham  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham has made his fifth 8C FA, The Ice Knife at Guanella Pass. For more than 10 years, Dave has been on the cutting edge and when it comes to produce hard core FAs around the globe, he is #1 in the history of bouldering.

"A majestic prow, jutting out of the forest on a northeast facing slope. A very technical compression climb, and extra conditony. Took me eleven days over two seasons, and it was a huge relief to final climb it. Difficult to grade, but one of the more challenging problems I have tried in a very long time, so we will see."

8b+ by Chelsea Rude  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChelsea Rude has done her first 8b+, Ixeia in Rodellar. ":) First 8b+ & I believe I can do harder :) A MUERTE!" Previously, 8a+ was and 7C+ bouldering were her personal best'.

In 2011, she has participated in one Boulder and one Lead WC, finishing #17 and #11.

8c by Barbara Raudner  Facebook

Barbara Raudner blogs about her ascent of Honig, 8c in Hollental which is a 45m endurance route. This was the 35+ fourth 8c.

8c by Emily Harrington  Facebook

Climbing reports that Emily Harrington has done Joe Kinder's Waka Flocka, 8c in Rifle after some 45 tries. In the world champion 2005, Emily (19) did get the silver.


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