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Shauna Coxsey does 'Zarzaparrilla', 8B  (5)
 

Shauna Coxsey: Zarzaprilla 8b Facebook

 
 
Boreal's gathering in Chulilla + Interviews 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBy mid March, Boreal gathered some of its most representative athletes in Albarracín and Chulilla. There we saw first hand how much their new climbing shoes line had improved.

We took advantage of this opportunity to have a little chat with some of these climbers (Nacho Sánchez, Raquel Hernández and Edu Marín). Don't miss out on the interviews and the nice pictures shot by David Munilla in this article. Facebook

 
 
Of the wagon 8B+ by Niky Ceria  (6)
 

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The 8B+ league 
 

Here is the Top-10 list of which active 8a members have done the most 8B+ and harder. In brackets is the last 12 months figure which James Webb is in the lead. It should be noted that the list is based on personal gradings and even if all have done many, James and Adam are sticking out.

1. Daniel Woods 73 (14 last 12 months)
2. Paul Robinson 72 (15)
3. David Graham 65 (7)
4. James Webb 42 (22)
5. Bernhard Schwaiger 34 (1)

6. Adam Ondra 31 (4)
7. Carlo Traversi 20 (2)
8. Chris Webb-Parsons 19 (4)
9. Jan Hojer 17 (8)
10. Gui-Gui Mondet 15 (5) Facebook

 
 
Very few female 8A's in Font 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureWe have seen a great female bouldering the last years and the number of 8A's done around the world are increasing fast. A rough estimate suggest that beside a couple of 8B's, a dozen have done 8A+ and maybe 50 have done 8A. However, in the mecca of bouldering, Fontainebleau, 8A's are still very rare.

Why is it like this? Font is said to favor the technical skilled and this is how we normally describe female? A better explanation might be that, relatively, female are best in steep terrain with crimpers and not on slightly overhanging dynamic boulders with slopers and mantel cruxes. What do you think, is it a myth that Font is technically challenging besides the reach dependent vertical and slabby stuff?

Katharina Saurwein, fighting a sloper problem in Fontainebleau. "I think it is no secret that most females are a way stronger in crimping than on slopers... maybe because of their smaller hands?" Facebook

 
 
Bouldering in North Wales 
 

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Boulder topo for 10 unknown sand stone areas in France 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRecently a new bouldering guidebook has been released including 10 lesser known sandstone bouldering areas in France. Those areas are located in the north of France around Reims in the Alsace, and in the south of France near Montpellier and the Rhone valley.

1440 problems are well illustrated and described in four languages for the real, authentic bouldering explorers. If you like bouldering on sandstone, this could just be the alternative you are looking for in the upcoming, overcrowded bank holiday weekends in Fontainebleau. More info and here you buy it for Euro 32. Facebook

 
 
FA bonus increased to 30 and 20 points for routes & boulders 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn order to give more credit to FA's we have doubled up the bonus points to 30 for routes and 20 to boulders.

The onsight bonus for routes is 145 points and the flash bonus for boulders are 53 points. A second go ascents gives 2 points extra.

The annual score is based on the Top-10 ascents. Have fun :) Facebook

 
 
Amazing support for GB WC bouldering team 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Leslie-Wujastyk started a crowd funding page two days ago for the GB WC bouldering team as a sponsor had to withdraw.

Their target was 8 000 pound and now already 230 backers have raised 9 000 pound. Six backers have paid a total of 1 900 pound for a one hour coaching with either Mina or Shauna Coxsey. As there are many federation and competitors struggling with World Cup finance, this might be the way to go.

Last year, Shauna was #4 and Mina #9 in the Bouldering World Cup which starts in less than four weeks in China. Facebook

 
 
Cocalzinho - Ariana Gebrim 
 

Cocalzinho - Ariana Gebrim no boulder Missăo (V7) from Kassan Araújo on Vimeo.

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What do you think about 8a 2014? 
 


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Melloblocco 1-4 May 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMelloblocco has since 2003 been the largest international bouldering meeting. Already more than 1 000 have signed up for the great event taking place 1-4 May in Val Masino, Italy. Several celebrities will compete on prize award boulders and have slide shows during the nights etc. Facebook

 
 
Left-to-Right topo update  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSteve Golley continues to develop the sorter for making Left-to-Right topos. "The sorter should now add new routes from the scorecard to the bottom of the list if a crag has been sorted before, and you can add routes directly into the sorter.

Here you can create topos. It just takes like 10 minutes and then it will be possible to down load in the 8A Topo App. You can also check the Crags list to see available topos.

Steve already has a system for drawing topos on images and in later this will also be available to 8a members. Already, you can use the 8A Topo App to add routes to your scorecard - check it out both for iPhones and Androids. Facebook

 
 
8 Euro daily climbing tax in Spain and Greece  (19)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBased on the recent economical crises in Spain and Greece, the both governments have decided to collect Euro 8 daily climbing tax. The good news is that all 8a members will get a free climbing pass at a value of Euro 88 per year.

The climbing tax will be collected at airports and at the immigrants desk. If you have not prepaid the tax and there is a control, you will have to pay Euro 100 or go to jail for one day.

The controlling organisation, Lirpa Loof, says: "We will mainly work on the crags with the softest gradings as we know here is where most climbers go. We also know that many top climbers use campus board so we have installed them in some prisons near Oliana and on Kalymnos. Anybody who can do 1-4-7 is free to go. Facebook

 
 
EpicTV presents Buoux 
 

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2 bouldering videos in La Pedriza (Spain) 
 



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Tierra Boulder Battle  (4)
 

1. Alex Puccio USA
2. Mina Markovic SLO
3. Hannah Midtbö NOR
Tierra Boulder Battle video Facebook

 
 
How dangerous is kids and teenager bouldering on the fingers?  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDuring the last few years, we have seen an extreme development when it comes to bouldering performances for kids and teenagers. We have also heard about several injuries and also studies saying hard climbing training and especially bouldering is dangerous. At the same time, however, very few of the very best famous youngsters have ever had any serious injuries and Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, who probably has had the most experience of hard youngster training, reports no injuries.

Maybe one way to explain this contradiction between theory and practice of the best is that all the famous youngsters have started climbing as they could walk and gradually have increased the load and also have had a great focus on outdoors. This could be compared with guys starting climbing intensively from the beginning as a teenager with a focus on indoors, finger training and competitions. Please share stories of what you have heard or experienced when it comes to finger injuries and kids. Facebook

 
 
Will Gadd (46) portrait 
 

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9a FA by Kilian Fischuber in the new destination Leonidio 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnna Stöhr blogs her recent trip to Leonidio in Greece together with Kilian Fischhuber where they set up some
new routes including Kili's Capricorn 9a. "All in all our climbing trip to Leonidio was great fun and I cannot wait to come back!"

Leonidio, with only 53 ascents in the 8a data base, is located some three hours on the mainland some three hours south west from Athens.

Climbing-Leonidio.com: " Hundreds of sectors with the potential for thousands of routes on high quality tufa-limestone lie waiting to be developed. Currently (August 2013) there are around 100 routes from French 5b - 8b. The number of new routes is growing rapidly. Facebook

 
 
Favorite climbing clothes brand? 
 


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FA by Mathieu Bouyoud in St Didier 
 

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Cameroni in Chironico 
 

Giuliano Cameroni - climbing in Chironico from Inside of a dog on Vimeo.

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8B and 8B+ FA by Jernej Kruder 
 

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The Ondra and Sharma story of La Dura Dura 9b+  (25)
 

Learn and get inspired by this great video from Reel Rock!
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Bafa Lake bouldering 
 

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Good review for Click Up from Climbing Technology 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReino "Nicki" Horak, national coach for both the Senior and Juniors in Sweden, give thumbs up for the new "Click Up" by Climbing Technology beside that that safety symbol is fading away after some hours of use. It is like 25 % cheaper compared to the Grigri. Instructual video.

"I had, what proved to be a pleasure, to try the new "Click Up" from Climbing Technology. It proved to be a very light and as well easy to handle belay device with built in auto brake with similar brake effect as for example Grigri. Clear and obvious marks makes it basically impossible to fail during to improper handling. Today I let a couple of climbers who never had seen the device before test it during climbing at Blocs & Walls in Copenhagen.

They compared it with their ATC's, Grigris and SUM and were very positive surprised. So positive that they wanted to purchase one immediate. The only disadvantage I have noticed is that there is a lot of resistance, works a little bit blockish, while using older thicker ropes. The device tends to lock too easy using those ropes. I would sum it us as a perfect device when belaying equal heavy or heavier climbers than yourself and it´s now a standard and obvious part of equipment in my climbing bag. Facebook

 
 
Sharma & Glowacz in Oman, plus Alex Honnold soloing...at night. 
 

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Nacho Sanchez 
 

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Hitar Petar by Fazata 8A+ 
 

Hitar Petar 8A+ from fazata on Vimeo.

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Johanna Ernst Nature Teaser 
 

Johanna Ernst | Teaser 1 from funst on Vimeo.

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Ian Dory does Paint it Black 8C 
 

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Corona 9a+ by Felix Neumärker 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFelix Neumärker has done the hardest route in Frankenjura, Corona 9a+ which was set up by Markus Bock in 2006. One year ago, Felix did his first 9a+, La Rambla. There exists three other routes that originally was 9a+ in Frankenjura but they have all been subject of being down graded.

Felix says he spent five days last year and four days this year and that it is his style of route, "filigree/ precise power climbing on small pinches/crimps, not painful at all."

Have you done any specific training? What is your next plan?
Last weekend, I was there with Daniel Jung and we tried 3 days in a row, so this could be called specific training… Next plan? Mmh, what about enjoying life and climb as much as possible meanwhile finishing my studies? ;) Facebook

 
 
James McHaffie talks 9a etc 
 

James McHaffie talks 9a, Indian Face and his extreme solo plans from UKClimbing.com TV on Vimeo.

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Eliot Stephens in Peak 
 

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The new generation of top boulderers are taller 
 

Several of the very best boulderers in the world are around 170 cm and at least 3 out of the Top-15 are below 170 cm; Daniel Woods, Dai Koyamada and Carlo Traversi. At the same time the guys with the best development the last years; Webb and Hojer are almost 185 cm.

By looking at all the best teenagers coming up we can see that most are actually, or will be, around 180 cm; Caballero, Ometz, Cameroni, Sobotka, Hammer, Unuk.

Comparing these centimeter figures with route climbers, we can see that beside Ondra and Sharma, most of the best are around 170 cm. Facebook

 
 
Meadowlark Lemon 8B+ by Mirko Caballero (13) 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero has set a new standard in the history of bouldering by doing Meadowlark Lemon 8B+ in Red Rocks. Noteworthy is that it was originally set up as an 8C and that Adam Ondra did his first 8B+ when he was 15 years old. Mirko (13) is already 166 cm and around 50 kilos.

"DONE DEAL. Still can't believe it. I never worked sooo hard for a project. Took me another 3 trips after sending the stand, but today it finally came together. Nice job Paul Robinson on opening this one. One of the best ever! Ahhh!!!!!"

Here is a great new long interview from Vagabundo magazine. "Mirko is not on a team and has no coach; he simply loves climbing, and is self-motivated to always improve. His father is his main climbing partner who always pushes for fun amidst hard work. All family vacations are spent climbing because his parents recognize the talent, passion, and potential in their son. Facebook

 
 
Sean McColl does Meadow Lark 8B+ 
 

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Chironico bouldering 
 

Midnight Lightning from Serious Climbing on Vimeo.

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Albarracin by Caminati 
 

AlbarraTrip from Michele Caminati on Vimeo.

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Elkland Bouldering 
 

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8*8B by Ometz and Cameroni 
 

8X8B from Samuel Ometz on Vimeo.

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Why is so many outside Font down graded? 
 

The history shows that almost 50 % of all the hardest boulders in most hard core areas but Fontainebleau are actually down graded. Why is it that often the FAs think hard boulders, outside Font, are harder compared to the repeaters, i.e. an 8A+ FA often becomes 8A? Which are the larger boulder areas with the lowest percentage down gradings?

The Fontainebleau boulders which are very seldom down graded are often quite vertical with slooper or mantle cruxes which is like the opposite with the boulders that are down graded in like 50 %. Is the best explanation for the low proportion of down grades that the Font style is more difficult to train in the gym? Facebook

 
 
New topo for Athens including 1 100 routes  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAthens climbing.com presents a new topo including more than 1 100 routes located on 33 crags within 1 hr driving from the center town. The best crags are said to be, Mavrosouvala, Spilia Daveli, Chaos, Vrachokipos, 902 and Spilia Roussou.

More pics and info at Gaetan Raymond's blog. "There is a big concentration of cliffs with a lot of choice with the orientation to allow climbing all year around in the shadow or in the sun. But, the most interesting thing is that almost all these cliffs have a very good rock, mostly the same as Kalymnos! Facebook

 
 
Peak n Mix - Bouldering in the Peak District, UK 
 

Peak n Mix from Eliot Stephens on Vimeo.

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Bouldering guide to Gallura in Sardinia - UPDATED LINK  (6)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLa Sportiva presents bouldering guide for Gallura in the northern part of Sardinia. " The purpose of the project was to discover a new boulder area for the climbing community and to let know this area, composed of more then 49 boulders, to all the climbing people all around the world."

In total, the topo includes almost 200 boulder problems evenly spread out from 5A to 8A+. Video teaser Facebook

 
 
EpicTV presents La Pedriza 
 

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Sasha DiGuilian first ascent in South Africa 
 

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100 sport crags and 4 000 routes in South Tyrol/Dolomites 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Dolomites are a well known among alpine climbers, however, South Tyrol is still an insiders’ tip when it comes to sport climbing. On Dolomite limestone in Val Gardena, or on granite or marble, one will find routes of any kind of rock in South Tyrol. Currently there are 100+ crags with over 4000 sport climbing routes and the topo can be found in the Vertical-Life App, Vertical-life.

From the 23rd to 27th of July, the festival Climbing MOVE will take place in Val Gardena. Video Facebook

 
 
Peńoles season wrap-up by Diego Lopez Montull 
 

Diego Lopez Montull is one of the leading latino-american climber for more than a decade. In the last 13 years, he's been adding dozens of hard king line to his "garden", Peńoles, in the mexican state of Chihuahua.
This season has seen the visit of Boulder CO residents Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Dave Graham, Paul Robinson and Shawn Raboutou. A web serie documenting the rampage is in preparaation for Epic TV(realised by Chuck Fryberger Films, in collaboration with PRAK media, Sandstones Media and the Island).

For a teaser, check out Diego's blog !  Facebook

 
 
 
Giuliano Cameroni (14) checks in with 17 8A's 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiuliano Cameroni has done his 17th 8A and harder, Miss Schweiz in Chironico. The 14 year old did his first 8A when he was 10 and his first 8A+ when he was 13! Facebook

 
 
8c by Maria Davies Sandbu (20)  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMaria Davies Sandbu has done her first 8c, actually jumping 8b+, by doing Fish Eye in Oliana. "Yey, my first 8c! 50 metres of truly amazing climbing!" In the combined ranking game, the Norwegian is #2 after Sasha Digiulian. (c) Henning Wang Facebook

 
 
8A again by Flannery Shay-Nemirow (19) 
 

Flannery Shay-Nemirow has done Diaphanous Sea, 8A in Hueco Tanks which was her sixth of the grade. The 19 year old is #4 in the ranking game. Facebook

 
 
8b+ onsight by Ben Spannuth 
 

Ben Spannuth has onsighted his first 8b+, El Gran Blau in Oliana. "Inspiring day with people from all over the world." Some six months ago, Ben's personal best was 8b+ and now he is #4 in the world ranking game. Facebook

 
 
Mind Control, 8c+ also by Sasha Digiulian (19)  (19)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian is the fourth female, after; Ojeda, Caprez and Ciavaldini, to have done Mind Control, 8c+ in Oliana during the last two months.

"Venga chicas! It is amazing to me to see female climbers pushing their own limits and I am 100% psyched for everyone! A beautiful, long line. Pure resistance. 4 tries in total."

The 19 year old who was the combined World Champion last year also onsighted has also onsighted Mon Dieu, 8a+ and she is #3 in the ranking game. Facebook

 
 
8c by Muriel Sarkany (37) again  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany has done her fifth 8c during the last seven months, Ingravids Eskerps in Santa Linya. "20 m 8c, quite bouldery ;-)"

Previously, the 37 year old and second best female competition climber in the history had done just one 8c, in 2008.

Between 1997 and 2004 she won five World Cups overall and the remaining three years she was #2. In 2003, she won the world championship. More at MurielSarkany.com (c) Henning Wang Facebook

 
 
8B FA by Stefan Rasmussen (40) again  (3)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Rasmussen, the man behind Västervik, drove 110 km to Knutby where he put up his video camera and did the FA of FuRB, 8B. The 40 year old and father of four kids, has previously put up five 8B's out of which two this winter season. Facebook

 
 
8B+ FA by Alberto Rocasolano 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlberto Rocasolano has put up his second 8B+, Charlotte in La Pedriza. During the same day he also did the FA of Far Away, 8A+. The 20 year old has previously made four 8A+ and harde FA in Torrelodones. In the ranking game, he is #8. Facebook

 
 
8c+ in Oliana also by Caroline Ciavaldini  (17)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Pearson reports that his girlfriend Caroline Ciavaldini has, on her third redpoint attempt, done her first 8c+, Mind Control in Oliana.

"Having climbed the route a few days before, I had a pretty good idea of the difficulties involved, and decided to devote my rest day to being the perfect little Gri-Gri girl (boy) to give her the best chance of success.

My brand new 9.1mm Beal Joker was pulled out to help with the rope drag. We also worked out a nice method of climbing the first section with 2 ropes, clipping the first 5 or 6 QD’s on one line then dropping it at the rest to allow the other line to run freely through the remainder of the route. This is also the first time I have used a 100m rope!
"(c) Francisco Taranto Facebook

 
 
8c+ by Alizée Dufraisse 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlizée Dufraisse has done Dani Andrada's El Rastro, 8c+ in Siurana, which to 3/4 shares the same moves as La Rambla, 9a+.

She will stay in the area for another six weeks and next on her Tick List is Broadway, 8c+ and Era Bella, 9a. Six weeks ago she did Reina Mora, 9a (8c+). In 2010 she was #3 in the European Championship. More info and pictures at her blog(c) Francisco Taranto

Here is an interview from 2009 which also talks about her 4.35 as a personal record and french championship in pole vault. Facebook

 
 
8B flash by Sean McColl 
 

Sean McColl blogs from Hueco Rock Rodeo where he flashed Nagual, 8B and Subzero, 8A. Facebook

 
 
8a+ for Cathy Wagner (46) 
 

Cathy Wagner has done yet another 8a+, Jungle Speed L1 in St Leger. In total the 46 year old ahs done 84 routes 8a+ and harder out of which five the last year. Facebook

 
 
8B+ FA again by Dave Graham 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham has put up yet another 8B+ in Hueco Tanks, Neon Desert. "Super nice rig climbing out a comp wall, bomber crimps, athletic climbing, and resistant. Felt a solid step the 8b's I have done here, and took around 6 days to suss out. Maybe there is some beta I didn't find, but the method I used is challenging, and majestic!"

In total Dave has recorded 943 ascents out of which 21 are 8B+ and harder FA and he is #3 in the ranking game. the living legend has for the last ten years, most of the time, been Top-3 in the game. BearCamMedia.com Facebook

 
 
8b+ by Sasha Digiulian 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian is back in Spain where she has done Kalea Borraka, 8b+ in Siurana. Last year, the 19 year old did one 9a and three 8c+' and she is #3 in the ranking game. In 2011, she was the combined world champion after having been #2 in Boulder and #8 in Lead.

" I am not sure which World Cups I will do but certainly Chamonix, Briancon, and the World Championships in Paris! I am currently more excited to be climbing outside for the majority of the summer, probably throughout europe!" Facebook

 
 
Three 8A+ OS by Loic Timmermans (16) 
 

Loic Timmermans has had a great vacation in Terradets where he onsighted 11 routes between 7c+ and 8a+. Last year, Loic won the Euro Youth Cup. Facebook

 
 
8B+ FA by Paul Robinson 
 

27crags reports that Paul Robinson has opened Helicopters on Beaches, 8B+. "Albarracín is one of the greatest bouldering areas in all of Europe." Facebook

 
 
8c also by Evgeniya Malamid  (2)
 

Evgeniya Malamid continous to show great from in Oliana where she added Fish eye, 8c to her very impressive tick list including also an 8b and 8a+ onsight. Evgeniya goes to #4 in the ranking game.

Her Russian team mate, Mikhail Chernikov, has done the same ascents and also Mind Control, 8c+ 2:nd Go. Facebook

 
 
8c+ FA by Felipe Camargo 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFelipe Camargo has put up the first 8c+ in Brazil, Premoniçăo in Serro di Cipo. "Long standing project! amazing line, so proud of this one...v11/12 into 8b+ route! To be featured on my upcoming video of FA's in Brasil, late 2012!"

Felipe will help us with a short Brazilian climbing guide and recommendations for the upcoming summer season. In 2007, Felipe was #27 in the world championship being 16 years old. Facebook

 
 
8C FA by Daniel Woods 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods reports on his FB account, "Today I just established the coolest, steepest, hard line I have put up. The boulder is a giant 65 degree overhanging ships prow, which jolts out of the hillside... For the topout, I had to grab some wet and icy holds, but soon found myself standing on top of the boulder on a snow bank. The feeling was amazing and i was so psyched to complete such a beautiful roof. I named the climb Paint it Black and am proposing lower end 8C." B3 History of the amazing line on "exceptional swiling granite"

Daniel has previouldy put up several 8C's and he has been one of the leading bouldwerers for several years although he is just 22 years old. Last weekend he won the ABS USA National. In 2010, he won the only Boulder World Cup he did and in 2011 his best result was #2. 8a interview where he also shares his thoughts on grades and ethics. Facebook

 
 
Two 8B+' by James Webb  (2)
 

James Webb has done two 8B+', first he did 2nd ascent of Daniel Woods Mirror Reality in RMNP and then Echale in Clear Creek Canyon. Last weekend he won the ABS qually and then in the semi he was #10. Facebook

 
 
8c by Caroline Ciavaldini and 8a+' OS  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Ciavaldini is back from her six week Asia trip together with James Pearson. Last week they both onsighted a couple of 8a+' in St Leger and then they drove directly to Oliana where Caro to her big surprise did Fish Eye, 8c second. The day after they both onsighted El Batec, 8a+ in Tres Ponts, see picture by Francisco Taranto

The plan is to do hard fitness training in Spain for a month before going for some multi-pitch projects in April. Full report from Caro as a comment. Facebook

 
 
8A (+) flash by Michael Piccolruaz (16)  (8)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichael Piccolruaz has flashed Kirk Windstein, 8A (+) in Cresciano. Previously only Adam Ondra has flashed it out of the 30 ascents in the 8a data base. Last year Michael was #2 in two Euro Boulder Youth Cups.

"Pretty soft. WOW I can't believe it. I had no beta, no idea how to climb it. I started with the goal to try the start moves and then everything worked just perfect. I was sitting on the bloc and I don't really realized what I was able to climb. 8a flash!! Just an awesome feeling =)" Facebook

 
 
8c (b+) onsight by Cedric Lachat 
 

Kairn reports that Cedric Lachat has onsighted Aitzol, 8c (b+) in Margalef. It has previously been onsighed by Edu Marin, Jakob Schubert and Adam Ondra.

Cedric has been a very succesful competition climber for 13 years delivering top results in both Lead and Boulder. He is also pushing the grades up on the Big Walls. Facebook

 
 
8b OS by Evgeniya Malamid 
 

Evgeniya Malamid has onsighted Marroncita, 8b in Oliana. In the 8a ranking game she is #5. During 2008 to 2010, she made it into the Lead semifinal 14 times in a row before she stopped Lead WC's. Facebook

 
 
8A+ by Mirko Caballero (11) 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero has done his first 8A+, The Auqarium in Bishop. "Long. Reminds me how much I hate the heel hook on Aquatic Hitchhiker. Still super psyched for my first 8a+. I'm also a competitive gymnast. For now I'm trying to do both simultaneously, but if I have to choose, I will focus on climbing." (c) Christiane Caballero Facebook

 
 
OS slaughter by Piotr Schab (15) UPDATE!  (3)
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has onsighted eighth 7c+ and harder including Pais de monos, 8a+ during five days in Margalef. The 15 year old has previously redpointed up to 8c+.

During the last five days the tallented polish climber has onsighted another four 8a+ and four 8a. In the junior ranking game he is #4 but among the guys born 1996, he is #1. (c) Elias Holzknecht Facebook

 
 
8c by Hannah Midtbř 
 

Hannah Midtbř has done Rollito Sharma extension, 8c in Santa Linya. "The logical line! Very cool style of climbing (especially after the broken hold). Dynamic, delicate and powerful. You gotta love a route where you keep falling at the very last move :)"

In 2008, Hanna was #3 in the Euro Boulder Championship being 18 years old. In the last Lead IFSC comp she entered she won the Youth Cup. Facebook

 
 
Third 9a by Jonathan Sigrist 
 

Rockandice has a full length story of the 9a FA by Jonathan Sigrist in Arrow Canyon called La Reve.

"Lost count of days or tries exactly, but probably close to 30 tries over 15 climbing days or so? (Spread out over about six weeks). It's double the time that I've spent on any route since one of my first 5.14's." Facebook

 
 
8B FA by Dave Graham again  (7)
 

Dave Graham has done yet another 8B FA, Where Loves goes to die in Hueco Tanks. "Compression-tech, double toes, kneebars, BOMBER perfect black stone, and bring your headlamps! a real dream come true if you will. Hard to grade, def reachy, could be harder??"

In total, Dave has done 51 FA's 8B and harder making him maybe #1 in the world in this honorable discipline. Dave is well known for his vision and his FA's are spread out around the globe. Facebook

 
 
8b+ by Andrea Hah 
 

Andrea Hah has done her first 8b+, Mr Line in Blue Mountains. "Solid 32. Classic, crimpy, pumpy fun. First of the grade, and undisputed. Which is nice." Facebook

 
 
Katha Saurwein adds ten 8A (+)'  (5)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatharina Saurwein has added 41 climbs to her log-book including eight 8A's and two 8A+'s. Last week she did three 8A's during one day and her is the nice video The Austrian has been a succesfull competition climber for 10 years and in 2008, she was #4 in the Boulder World Cup. In the last event she entered in 2011, she was #5. Video of Katha doing 8a and 8a+ in Red River Gorge Facebook

 
 
Christine Schranz signs up with an 8c  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristine Schranz who was #8 in the Lead World Cup last year has done Chris Sharma's Fish eye, 8c in Oliana. The Austrian won the Youth World's in 2007 and last year she was #7.

One good explanation for all her success is that she is working at Tivoli, known as the best climbing gym in the world for World Cup climbers. Much more info and pictures at her website. Facebook

 
 
Michael O'Rourke (17) a rising star - 8B update  (4)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichael O'Rourke has during the weekend done Formula 50 super sit, 8A+ in Clear Creek Canyon and flashed The Portal Sit, 7C (+) in RMNP. In the junior ranking game, Michael is #5 but he is #1 among the 17 year olds. Today, he did his first 8B Free Range in Boulder canyon.

How do you train? (More in the forum)
I climb every day, I get outside a couple times a week and when I'm not climbing outside I will be climbing and training in the gym. At the gym I usually spend about 3 hours climbing and another hour weight training. To train I will do hundreds of pull-ups combined with campus boarding and one arm power training. Facebook

 
 
Nicola Vonarburg (39) at his peak 
 

Nicola Vonarburg who started climbing in 1985 is peaking 26 years later being 39. Yesterday he did his second 8c+, Riti Tribali in Angelone. In the 35+ ranking game, Nicola is #9. Facebook

 
 
8b OS by Adrian Chmiala (15) 
 

Adrian Chmiala has during five days in El Chorro onsighted the 55m El Oraculo, 8b and two 8a+'. The 15 year old also did Cous cous giving it a personal grade of 8b+. Facebook

 
 
Verhoeven adds 26 ascents up to 8B+ and 9a  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJorg Verhoeven who won the World Cup in 2008 has added 26 ascents to his log-book including seven 8B and harder he did last week in Hueco Tanks. Last autumn he did three 9a's.

During the last ten years, Jorg has been one of the leading climbers also on rock including also multi-pitches. He has also been involved in developing a new crag in Croatia. Picture on Esperanza, 8B+ from his blog. Facebook

 
 
8A (+) again by Alex Johnson: Girl power 
 

Alex Johnson has done Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A (+) in Hueco Tanks which was her seventh 7C+ and harder the last three weeks. In 2008 she won the first World Cup she entered and then she was #2 and #1. Here she sums up 2011 and explains why she stopped focusing on WC comps. Facebook

 
 
8c+ by Daila Ojeda: Girl power!  (10)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaila Ojeda reports in her blog that she has done Mind control, 8c+ in Oliana which is a 3-star 45 metres route put up by her partner Chris Sharma. "It was really nice to clip the chains and remember what it´s like to redpoint :-) it´s so good!! hehe.. Also my friend Joe K. did the route so it was a good day for the Era Vella Team!!! Good job dude!"

Daila has previously done a few 8c's before. The ascents was filmed by Big Up so stayed tuned for a nice video. Here is a video from last year when Adam Ondra onsighted it. (c) Keith Ladzinski Facebook

 
 
8b+ by Barbara Raudner: Girl power 
 

Barbara Raudner (35+) has done Sin perdon, 8b+ in Perles. "Sin Perdon" is a perfect line in an amazing landscape! I have to return to Austria in a few days, but we will come back already in March, very psyched for a new project:-)." Facebook

 
 
8B+ by Mario Lechner (20) 
 

Mario Lechner from Austria has done his first 8B+, The Dagger in Cresciano. In 2010, he won the Euro Youth Cup and last year he was #10 in the World Cup and his worst result was #18 out of ten events.

What is your plan for 2012 and have you done any hard routes?
"I will try to stay in the Top-10 in the lead worldranking. A really big goal for me is to reach the finals in Paris at the world championships. I never did hard routes outside cause I don't really like to try routes more than 2-3 times, tha'ts why I prefer bouldering on rocks even though I'm a route climber ;) Facebook

 
 
8b+ by Ciavaldini; Flashed by Pearson 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Ciavaldini reports from their Asia trip which now has taken her and James Pearson to Buket Keteri, Malaysia.

"This cliff is astonishing, great routes, great people, great country, and what a potential!!!! Mata Timur, 8b+ I cleaned, then did in the day. It was really a very beautiful route in a roof. On top of that, James climbed the day after Nix fuer Lutscher , 8c+!" Facebook

 
 
Verhoeven and Saurwein in Hueco  (1)
 

Jorg Verhoeven blogs from Hueco Tanks with an inpressive Tick List for him and for Katharina Saurwein who has done an 8A+ and two 8A's.

In 2008, Jorg won the Lead World Cup and Katharina was #4 in Boulder. Facebook

 
 
7C+ flash by Alex Puccio 
 

Alex Puccio done another three 8A's in Hueco Tanks including Mo Mojo. "Got scared on the top out. Great training day. Did this boulder, repeated Full Service, and another 7C+ and Flashed Crimping Christ on the Cross.

Last year, Alex was #3 in the Boulder World Cup. Facebook

 
 
Two 8A's etc by Shauna Coxsey (18) 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey has during a two weeks visit to Hueco Tanks done two 8A's and six 7C+'. In the two Boulder World Cups the 18 year old entered last year, she was #4 and #8. Full blog report. Facebook

 
 
Salathe and 8a+ after just two years: 8a+ update  (5)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureArgyro Papathanasiou has just been climbing two years but she has already been on Salathe wall and last week she did her first 8a, Minimal Techno in Siurana. Previously she has been in the Greece Taekwondo team and another good explanation is her boyfriend Nicolas Favresse, who took the picture.

"It was after a period of an injury I had in Yosemite and couldn't climb for 1 month. Now ready for even bigger challenges and adventures!" Today, Argyro did Brot de Fonol, 8a+. Facebook

 
 
3 quick 8B (+)'s by Jakob Schubert 
 

Jakob Schubert has had some great days in Cresciano where he did The Dagger, 8B+ in 2.5 hours and Confessions, 8B (+) in 45 minutes. He also did Boogalagga, 8B in 30 min.

Last year, Jakob set a new record by winning the first seven Lead World Cup events. In the first Boulder World Cup he was #2. Here he describes his training. Facebook

 
 
8B+ by James Webb 8B (+) update  (1)
 

Today James made a quick repeat of Gecko assis giving it the same 8B grade as also Ondra suggested.

James Webb has added another test piece to his impressive quick send list in Fontainebleau, The Island, 8B+. "2nd day. Felt amazing to put it together!" During his first week he has done nine 8A's and harder and he is now #2 in the ranking game.

Have you done any special preparation?
I feel like I've been training for Font all my life. I grew up climbing on the sandstone of the south east (USA) so when I got here I noticed immediately the similarities.

What is your recipe for maximum power?
Just climbing as much as possible, working on things I need to improve on. I occasionally do dead hang, campus board and pull ups although the more of this I do, the more I get injured. Facebook

 
 
8c+ (9a) by Ben Spannuth 
 

Ben Spannuth has done Golden Direct at the Cathedral giving it a personal grade of 8c+. Seven months ago, his personal best was 8b+ and now he is #6 in the ranking game.

Earlier Ben discussed climbing static or dynamic. "I definitely prefer to stick with a static style because I am way more confident I won't fall. But as I get pumped cant maintain being static. To me the real trick is acknowledging which specific moves require you to "flip the switch" and punch through dynamically, then still be able to return to a more efficient style of movement". Facebook

 
 
8A+ (B) and more by Jan Hojer (19) 
 

Jan Hojer in taking advantage of prime conditions in Fontainebleau where he did four 8A's and harder during one day including Narcotic with he gave a personal grade of 8A+.

Jan is also a succesful competition climber who last year won one European Cup in Boulder. Among the seniors, his best result was #10 and #13. In 2010, he was #2 in the Euro Lead Youth Cup. Facebook

 
 
Two 8B+' in a day by Hukkataival 
 

Nalle Hukkataival blogs about having done two 8B+' yesterday in Fontainebleau. First he did the FA of Realist and then he quickly sent Gecko assis. Facebook

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