News   Numbers   Year
 
 
Megos Frankenjura 2014  Facebook
 

Alexander Megos Frankenjura 2014 from Powerhouse on Vimeo.

 
 
Lead Finals from Chamonix  (2) Facebook
 

 
 
Amma and Kim win in Chamonix  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Sachi Amma 28+ JPN - Jain Kim 50+ KOR
2. Jakob Schubert 24+ AUT - Magdalena Röck 45+ AUT
3. Domen Skofic 23+ SLO - Mina Markovic 44+ SLO
Complete results

Sachi was last man into the final and started first in the final setting a bar reaching hold 28 out of 47 that nobody could challenge. The weather was really bad and Sachi said his fingers were wet but the holds were so small so he could not chalk.

Among the female, Jain was last out and looked superior falling two moves from the top. In 2013, Sachi and Jain won the Lead WC overall.

 
 
Shauna Coxsey climbs New Baseline 8B+  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey reports on her instagram that she was able to climb New Baseline 8B+ in Magic Wood which was set up by Bernd Zangerl as an 8C. This makes her the 3rd woman to climb an 8B+. Earlier this year, when she was #2 in the World cup, Shauna has done two 8B's. (c) Luka Tambaca

 
 
Interview with Shauna Coxsey  Facebook
 

 
 
Chamonix WC Live on Saturday 21.00  Facebook
 

Here are the semi results from Chamonix and you can watch the final live tonight. The female starts 21.00 and the male 22.00.

 
 
Coxsey: The World Cup is not fun  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey, #2 in the Boulder World Cup 2014, has written a summary
blog about the second half of the season and it seems she was not happy with all the travelling competing in Canada, USA, China and France in just four weeks. The theme for all this is waiting...

"I wouldn’t say doing a World cup circuit is fun. It’s enjoyable at times but it can also be tiring, frustrating, disheartening and stressful. After all we train for weeks, months, years to just try and climb a few boulder problems."

In 2014, a record low of just 4 male and female did choose to do all eight events and the next year, the competing schedule is almost identical where the athletes have to travel to China two times.

(c) Eddie Fowke from The Circuit Climbing who has covered seven out of eight events, has said, "The schedule is a joke"

 
 
Chamonix bouldering  Facebook
 

Bouldery pod Chamonix from Jan Wierzejski on Vimeo.

 
 
Ondra missed a clip and the semi in Chamonix  (25) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra did forget the first clip on his second flash route in the Lead WC in Chamonix and therefore was ranked #76. On his first route he was #10 and overall #27 meaning that he did not qualify to the semifinal on saturday.

In his last Boulder World Cup, Ondra did a wrong start on the last boulder with the consequence that he lost the victory. In the first Lead WC in 2014, Adam was #9 as he slipped from a heel-hook meaning that it will be very hard to win overall. In 2009, Adam won overall when he was 16 years old after having won four out of six events.

 
 
8a the only Global climbing website  Facebook
 

Based on Alexa.com, www.8a.nu is the only global climbing website. All the other major website get their traffic from at least 55 % of their country of origin. The 8a visitors are evenly spread around the globe.

Another unique feature with 8a.nu is that only 6 % of the visitors come from a search engine, meaning that actually 94 % of our visitors did an active choice to visit 8a. Here are the stats for the other four english climbing websites.

Climbing: 55 % of visitors come from USA (32 % from search engine)
UKclimbing: 69 % of visitors come from UK (19 % from search engine)
Planetmountain: 82 % of visitors come from Italy (13 % from search engine)
Rock & Ice: 83 % of visitors come from USA (15 % from search engine)

 
 
More Information About Climbing In China From Kailas  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKailas is one of the biggest outdoor brands in China. They produce clothes , shoes, bags and outdoor equipment, like ropes and quickdraws, etc. This time the spotlight is on the Climbing Jeans, which is also the winner of 2014 ISPO MUNICH. Besides, Kailas is also the main sponsor of China rock searching team. Come and visit, you can get the newest information about climbing in China with pictures and videos. Their location is A2 100 in the outdoor show (FRIEDRICHSHAFEN GERMANY July 10-13).

 
 
Coxsey does One Summer in Paradise 8B  Facebook
 

 
 
The Siegrist story behind Biographie/Realization 9a+  Facebook
 

 
 
UBT Escalada in Brazil  Facebook
 

UBT Escalada - Festival de Inauguração from Pedra Viva on Vimeo.

 
 
Dan Smith does Trifecta 8B+  Facebook
 

Trifecta from Dan Smith on Vimeo.

 
 
8B by Alex Puccio again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done Nuthin but sunshine 8B in RMNP which actually was set up as an 8B+. "Great day! Filmed Top Notch and then walked down to Lower with an hour or less of light and did Nuthin but sunshine first try this year! :) Not sure if it's soft or I got a lot stronger, but its Definitely a good bit easier than Top Notch! And Joel Zerr sent today too!!! :)"

During the last month, when she skipped the two last World Cups, Alex has reached a new female standard by doing two 8B's and five 8A+'. This year she was #6 over all in the boulder WC, which was her worst ever. The picture is from Top Notch 8B Foto © Joel Zerr

 
 
Moon Hill 8b+ By DaWei  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaWei has just send a 8b+ in Moon Hill which is one of the most popular climbing crag in China . The route called “Sea of Tranquility” , he has also send “Spicy Noodle” 8c+ this year not long ago in another popular climbing crag called White Mountain.
“It is very long route, it is 35 meters in the guide book , but I really think it is longer than that , maybe 40 meters.”Dawei said“ The roof part was the killer there for me , but I am very happy I finished.”

 
 
130 + 6 bolts chopped in Sweden  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe picture is from Lilla Långevik on the swedish west coast were some 70 routes on five different sectors have been chopped completely. The plan with developing the family crag was partly to start Lysekil Rock Junior where 170 climbers had signed up one month before the event. This youth festival has now been cancelled.

All the bolts were paid by Fredrik Lundqvist who has tried to get support from the local club, Bohusläns KK and the swedish climbing federation without any success.

The background is that BKK has for many years have had a very strict bolting policy and has been involved in several chopping affairs. In one case, the board decided to put them back on but then the members of BKK, voted them done.

In a similar case in a newly developed crag for beginners in Göteborg, two guys have confessed that they took down six anchor hangers. Some few days later, the bolts were chopped.

 
 
9a (8c+) by Vladyslav Shevchenko (15)  Facebook
 

Vladyslav Shevchenko who previously has done two 8c+'s has repeated Sergey Shaferov's Trojan Horse 9a (8c+) in Nikita.

 
 
Good company makes you climb better  Facebook
 

Esporte Individual? (Agora Vai) from Davi Fantino da Silva on Vimeo.

 
 
Hörst brothers (13 & 11) do 8b+'  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst has done dis seventh 8b+, F'd in the A in Tensleep. "Cool route despite the name. It was so sustained, never let off until the last bolt. Maybe the hardest 8b+ for me so far."

Little brother, Jonathan has done his second 8b+, Galactic Emperer "Might be soft for some adults, but very hard if you are short (I'm 4'11/150 cm"). Thanks to my brother for the beta through the crux mono pulls and big reachs."

The picture is from Devil's Tower, where the brothers did the super classic Walt Bailey Memorial, 140 m 6a, with Cameron placing the gear. Their father is Eric Hörst, a famous climbing coach and author of several high class training books.

 
 
Stefano Ghisolfi does a 9a FA  Facebook
 

 
 
Mammut reclimbs Jerry Moffatt's The Face from 1983  Facebook
 

Reclimbing the Classics | EP#4 The Face 8a+ from world of freesports on Vimeo.

 
 
7C+ flash and 8a (+) by Nina Williams  Facebook
 

Nina Williams

 
 
9a by Patxi Usobiaga again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePatxi Usobiaga

 
 
Rael Saez does 8a+ FA in Malta  Facebook
 

Rael Saez, first ascent 8a+ Malta from Xavier Neg- on Vimeo.

 
 
Best of Bouldering World Cup 2014  Facebook
 

 
 
Beat Kammerlander (55) makes 8b FA  Facebook
 

 
 
Smith-Gobat and Rueck does long MP in Brazil  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ boulder traverse trad link up by Tom Randall  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTom Randall, one of the very best trad climbers in the world, blogs about his new creative creation, linking the boulder traverse The Greenshadow 8A+ into the classical trad line, Greenspit 8b+. The name of the link up is Pura Pura and as hegives it 8c+, it is the hardest graded trad route in the world together with Beth Rodden's Meltdown.

Tom says he got inspired by Dani Andrada's sit start link-ups in Rodellar up to 9b and that he takes a risk suggestion 8c+ instead of taking the easy way out and saying, "it’s the hardest I’ve done."

Very nice effort of Tom and it's great that he sticks out his neck and we will probably see many more link-ups like this in the future. 8a has previously said that while listing the hardest routes in the world, we do not include sit-starts.

The problem with giving boulder or even sit starts the same status as normal routes is of course that this type of ascents would become very common and in the long run, more extreme contrived defined elimination two moves starts, would be created. In a way, this takes away the beauty of climbing and finding the easiest way up.

Adding to this that also trad ethics are much more strict compared to sport routes, I find it hard to list Pura Pura as the hardest trad list in the world. However, when it comes to combos, it is for sure the most wonderful and maybe the most hard to repeat. What do you think?

 
 
Brazilians in Bishop  Facebook
 

Bishop - 02/2014 from Davi Fantino da Silva on Vimeo.

 
 
Provisional Calender 2015  Facebook
 

IFSC has already presented a provisional calender for 2015 including seven events for Bouldering and eight for Lead.

The schedule is more or less the same as this year so the boulderers will have to go to China two times and there will also be one event in Canada and Usa. In Lead, there is just event in China and also one in Canada, which is a combined event with Bouldering. The rest six comps will be held in Europe as also the the Youth World Champion.

 
 
Carpet of Memories - 400 m MP 8a in Morocco  Facebook
 

 
 
Little Rock City bouldering  Facebook
 

Strictly Stressin Dirty Dirty Vol 2: Little Rock City from Float Faction on Vimeo.

 
 
Multipitch Europe-Trip to Arco/Verdon/the Alps  Facebook
 

7 Tage im Süden: Arco / Côte d'Azur / Verdon / Tannheimer Berge (Alpen) from OAP - Outdoor Adventurer Prod. on Vimeo.

 
 
Hojer and Noguchi win overall  Facebook
 

1. Jan Hojer 558 - Akiyo Noguchi 610
2. Dima Sharafutdinov 467 - Shauna Coxsey 556
3. Gui-Gui Mondet 461 - Anna Stöhr 488
4. Rustam Gelmanov 337 - Juliane Wurm 430
5. Kilian Fischhuber 325 - Miho Nonaka (16) 300

Akiyo finished of with four straight victories and it was her third vistory overall and in the four remaining years since 2008, she was runner up.

Jan was #8 last year and in the IFSC live interview he said that two months before the season he climbed with Jimmy Webb who kicked his ass and then he started to train hard and eat healthy and compared to last year he focused and stayed in good shape for all the comps.

Noteworthy is that only four male and four female did choose to do travel to all eight events, spread out around the world including two times going to China. Among the female, the worst result in any of the eight events for the Top-4 overall was #8. Complete results

 
 
Puccio skipping last WCs does fourth 8A+  Facebook
 

AlexPuccio, #5 in the Boulder WC, skipped the last two events this year and instead she has has done four 8A+ including todays Dark Horse Sit in Guanella Pass. "Great day climbing. Psyched Joel sent this boulder today! We have asked around and from what we have heard this would be a First ascent from Joel. If someone knows otherwise please let us know. Psyched to have done this line too! Now the whole boulder is finished! :)

 
 
TNF: Train Smarter - Climbing Ep.  Facebook
 

 
 
Climbing is Art  Facebook
 

 
 
Hojer 2014 WC winner as Dima did not make the semi  Facebook
 

The big sensation from the Boulder qualification in Laval yesterday was that Dima Sharafutdinov did not qualify for the Top-20 Semifinal meaning that Jan Hojer wins the World Cup overall. This is the worst ever result for Sharafutdinov for 11 years tied with his #21 position in his first ever WC in 2001. Full results

 
 
More Climbing Area Has Been Opened In China  Facebook
 

Whether it is the first time that you have thought about climbing in China,or you are a regular visitor to this big country,it can always bring you new surprises.Maybe you have heard about YangShuo,or seen the video of Petzl rock trip in GeTu,but there are a lot more development in China.Four new climbing area have just been opened by KAILAS Rock Searching Team:BeiJing,LiaoNing,LeShan and LiJiang.KAILAS is one of the biggest outdoor brands in China.For the past three years, the KAILAS team has opened 17 areas,over 400 routes,and this is just a part of the chinese climbing development.Check out,and join the party.

 
 
Final Boulder World Cup Live streaming on Saturday  Facebook
 

The last and eight stage of the Boulder World Cup starts on Friday and on Saturday there will be Live Streaming.

13h30–16h00 Semi-final
20h30–22h30 Final

 
 
Supernormal  Facebook
 

Supernormal from HEIGHT FILMS on Vimeo.

 
 
David Mason in the Left Fork of Joe's Valley.  Facebook
 

Left Fork: Joe's Valley from David Mason on Vimeo.

 
 
More Climbing Area Has Been Opened In China  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureWhether it is the first time that you have thought about climbing in China,or you are a regular visitor to this big country,it can always bring you new surprises.Maybe you have heard about YangShuo,or seen the video of Petzl rock trip in GeTu,but there are a lot more development in China.Four new climbing area have just been opened by KAILAS Rock Searching Team:BeiJing,LiaoNing,LeShan and LiJiang.KAILAS is one of the biggest outdoor brands in China.For the past three years, the KAILAS team has opened 17 areas,over 400 routes,and this is just a part of the chinese climbing development.Check out,and join the party.

 
 
Niky Ceria: Five lines for five valleys  Facebook
 

Five lines for five valleys from niky_ceria on Vimeo.

 
 
Boulder WC China Replay  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Jimmy Webb Fontainebleau part 2  Facebook
 

 
 
Springtime for Layla Mami in Frankenjura  Facebook
 

Springtime in the Frankenjura from laylazz on Vimeo.

 
 
Melissa Le Nevé on 'Wall Street', 8c  (6) Facebook
 

 
 
 
8B+ by Matt Fultz  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz has done his first 8B+, Warpath in Castle Rock which is a 25 mover he has been working on since 2010 including a 3.5 hours drive. "Warpath is truly an amazing climb. This roof is located in Castle Rock, ID, and is surrounded by mountains, trees, and wildlife. The roof itself, dubbed the “Taco Cave”, is one of the best boulders I’ve ever climbed on and features perfectly sculpted crimps and pinches." More nice info at Climbidaho.

Matt (20) is one of the wonder kids who did 8b+ being 14 years old and who also performed very good in competitions. Today with 78 kg he is more focused on boulders.

 
 
8b again by Tito Claudio Traversa (11)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTito Claudio Traversa are having some nice hot and productive days in Margalef where he has done his tenth 8b, Xiketeta on his third go. The eleven year old has also onsighted six 7b+ and 7c's. (c) Marco Spataro

Tito who climbs every other week and does not follow a training programme did his first 8b when he was nine.Titotraversa.it

 
 
8a+ again by Eva Scroccaro (13)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEva Scroccaro has done her third 8a+, Dubbio finale in Baratro. Last year, she did her first 8b. Eva started to climb when she was 4 and it is all about playing with her friends and her mother Giulia who is at the same level. (c) Paolo Zamolo

 
 
Another 8A+ for Coxsey  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey has continued her tear through Colorado bouldering, climbing at night to avoid the hot temperatures. The night of June 20th she sent Riddles in the Park, 8A+ (it was her second day of trying it) and flashed Right El Jorge (7C) and Skipper D (7B+), all at Rocky Mountain National Park. She has only a few days left in her trip before heading back to Europe for the summer. Photo - Coxsey on Riddles (c) David Mason

 
 
8a OS by Samuel Hammer (14)  (3) Facebook
 

Samuel Hammer has done Gaia, 8b at Kalymnos. The Finn is #2 in the combined ranking game for the 14 year old's.

Yesterday, Samuel did his first 8a onsight, Zero Chichon at Kalymnos.

 
 
8c+ by Dani Lopez (44)  Facebook
 

Dani Lopez is once again sending good vibes for all 40+ guys who want to continue to improve by doing Superquimera, 8c+ in Peñarrubia. Already in 1995, Manu was doing 8b and his first out of four 8c+, he did when he was 42!

 
 
First 8B+ by Jan Hojer (20)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Hojer has had three amazing days in Magic Woods where he did eight boulders 8A and harder including The Never Ending Story, 8B+ and flashing Jack's broken Heart, 8A+ and Octopussy, 8A. Prior to Magic, Jan's personal best was 8A+.

On the competition arena, the 20 year old has been one of the best in the Euro Youth Cup between 2006 and 2011. In 2008, he was #9 in one WC being 16 years old. Last year he won one Euro Youth Boulder and in the last Boulder WC in Vail he was #3. Talk about amazing progrogress lately.

 
 
9a FA by Manu Lopez  (1) Facebook
 

Manu Lopez has done the FA of Kif kif demain, 9a in Bielsa in Spain which based on star rating is one of the best quality crags in the world.

 
 
8b+ (c) by Daila Ojeda  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaila Ojeda has done Los Humildes pa Casa in Oliana giving it a personal grade of 8b+ and 3 stars. The route is one of the highest rated routes in the 8a data base and in fact, everyone who has rated it, gave it 3 stars. Daila has previously done two 8c's. Spanish blog (c) Maria Torres

 
 
7C+ by Megan Mascarenas (14)  Facebook
 

Megan Mascarenas has done Public Execution, 7C+ in Mt Evans. The 14 year old super tallent started to climb when she was 2 has previously flashed a 7C+ (8A).

 
 
8A+ by Melissa Le Nevé  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMelissa Le Nevé who was #4 in the Boulder WC in 2011 has done Amphitheatre, 8A+ in Rocklands. " I think i can't find a boulder more in my style. We went sooo far in the wild to find this cool boulder and at least I was really happy to climb it. It's a really pure line". More info and pics in her blog, "I like so much this place, i feel really free, in peace..... I like to be there, walk and hear the nature growing.... it's really quite, without humans noise.... walking between the massive orange rock..." (c) Frank Enz

 
 
8b by Muriel Sarkany (37)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany, one of the best competition climbers of all time, has done Abregenief, 8b and Jungle slayer, 8a+ in St Léger. "Be careful with the bees at the middle of the route, be quite and don't wash your hair with flower product. I've been bite and I had to go down very quickly to escape her sisters ;-)

I began climbing at 16 year old and 1 year later I was starting competitions. I found a lot of pleasure doing that, I won all the titles (world champion, European champion...). And now, I decided to stop competitions and just take pleasure in rocks ;-)"

 
 
First 8A+ by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Leslie-Wujastyk has done her first 8A+, Mind Matters in Guanella Pass after previously having done 14 8A's. Here is Minas website and the 8A+ video. In the last Boulder WC in Vail she was #20 and her best WC result is #10.

 
 
8b by Johan Luhr (51)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJohan Luhr who has put up 1 300 routes mainly around Stockholm, has done Kristallbandet, 8b in Svarttjärn. The 51 year old and father of three kids has been featured in a swedish magazine for being one of the most well trained guys in Sweden.

 
 
8B+ by Tamás Zupán  Facebook
 

Tamás Zupán has done his first 8B+, Memento in Silvretta."Best ever! Hard first move and crazy jump!" Based on Tamás extreme progress the last few years we will most probably soon see an 8C!

The classical dyno from a micro edge was set up by pioneer Bernd Zangerl in 2005 as an 8C+ and here he discusses progress and inflation in bouldering. One reason for the inflation was that the personal grading was very rare some years ago and instead the grades were "confirmed" means Bernd.

 
 
8b again by Tito Claudio Traversa (11)  Facebook
 

Tito Claudio Traversa has climbed Parsifal 2000 at the Tetto di Sarre. This was his eighth 8b. Tito did his first 8b+ when he was 10 years old.

 
 
9a FA by Silvio Reffo  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSilvio Reffo, after having done five 8c+s, has climbed his first 9a, the FA of L'attimo in Covolo. The 22 year old has had a nice steady progress for the last four years and he is now #14 in the ranking game. (c) Giovanna De Vicari

 
 
9a by Mateusz Haladaj  Facebook
 

Mateusz Haladaj has done Direct into your Fabelita, 9a in Santa Linya. "After having taken an enormous fall on the last move of Open Your Mind and crushed my ankle i needed to recover for 2months. Still can't walk properly, but decided to climb this one, as it's one of the best lines in the cave. Probably my hardest so far, so pumpy to the top, still feels very hard at the bottom."

 
 
8c by Sasha Digiulian (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian has added another 8c to her scorecard, Pata Negra in Rodellar. "Yay, conquer :) difficult for me- many long moves. Had to pounce!!" During the last 12 months, Sasha has done six routes equally spread out between 8c and 9a.

The next event for the 19 year old is Balearic Master in Mallorca in two days. Her first WC in 2012 is in Chamonix as a preperation for the world championship. In 2011, she was the overall champion after having been #2 in boulder and #8 in Lead where she had the same score as the runner up in the final. (c) Chris Noble

 
 
8A (7C+) by Puccio and Coxsey  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey and Alex Puccio have done Unshackled sit, 8A (7C+)in Mt Evans. In the last Boulder World Cup in Vail, Shauna was #2 and Alex #5 and overall before the last comp they are also #2 and #5. (c) David Mason

 
 
8c+ FA again by Piotr Schab (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has done his second 8c+ FA, Batalion Skala in Pochylec. In the 8a junior ranking game, the 15 year old is #3 and last year he was #12 in the Euro Youth Cup. (c) Elias Holzknecht

 
 
8c+ FA by Javier Tamayo (37)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJavier Tamayo has done his first 8c+ with the FA of Doctor Tendon in Fin del Mundo. "Hard. My hardest realization so far, no doubt it's 8c+, I don't know whether it could reach the 9a cause I still don't have enough references. It's a power endurance route on not very deep and very harmful one and two finger pockets. If you're not well trained in these type of holds, you better be careful. Repeaters who are able to do it, please say what you think the grade is, many thanks to all those who put up with me while trying it and especially to Lore for being my "pillar" where leaning for getting it... Full-on!!!"

The 158 cm tall and 37 year old did his first 8b+ when he was 34 and being 35, he did his first 8c which is kind of interesting since he started to climb 22 years ago.

 
 
The Wheel of Life for Dave Graham  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham reports on Facebook, " Sent the Wheel of Life yesterday, feeling all liberated, looking forward, one more life goal is completed, and now I have another month to experiment with my PROJECTS!!!!! EXTRA LEGEND!"

The Wheel of Life is a classic roof link-up of four boulders which was put up by Dai Koyamada in 2004. It sits in the Hollow Mountain Cave in Grampians and was put up as an 8C+. Later grades ranging from 8B+ to 9a have been put forward for this 60 move boulder route. First ascentist did not use knee pad on the climb while some of the repeaters have. This might affect the different grade opinions.

 
 
9a+ FA by Adam Ondra in Céüse  (16) Facebook
 

Planetmountain reports that Adam Ondra has made the FA of Jungle Boogie, 9a+, in Céüse which was bolted by Sylvain Beissier. It is a power endurance route which starts with 16 m of non-stop climbing on micro holds followed by 12 m of easier terrain.

The 19 year old, who just graduated from high school, has previously put up five 9a+s and three 9bs. In total he has done eleven 9a+s and five 9bs which is like 50 % of all the hardest routes in the world.

 
 
Kilian Fischhuber best ever  Facebook
 

Kilian Fischhuber should be one of the athletes in the world with the best World Cup statistics overall. The Austrian has won 19 events and overall he has always been Top-2 since 2004: 2 - 1 -2 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 2 - 1 - 1/2.

He has won a silver in both the World and European Championship and he is the favorite to win the World Champion Paris in 2012.

 
 
8B by Michael O'Rourke (17)  Facebook
 

Michael O'Rourke who made a very strong WC debut as #22 in Vail has done Tetris, 8B in Wild Basin. "Wow so cool very power endurancey" The 17 year old is #4 in the junior ranking game.

 
 
9a instead of WC for Alexey Rubtsov  (5) Facebook
 

Alexey Rubtsov, the boulder world champion from 2009, did not get any support from the Russian Federation so Vail was to expensive. Instead he travelled to Rodellar where he has done Los Inconformistas, 9a.

 
 
8b (+) by Johan Luhr (51)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJohan Luhr who is famous for having set up more than 1 300 routes over 30 years mainly in Sweden, has done Rhythm n' stealth in Svarttjärn outside Stockholm. It was set up by Scott Mooney as an 8b but Johan who says it is his hardest ever gives it a personal grade of 8b+.

"On the last catch I am to tall to stand on the good foot hold and instead I have to just stand on friction on 45 degrees overhang. It sucks. " (c) Said Belhaj

 
 
8b MP by Thomas Anquetil (18)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas Anquetil reports that he has done Delicatessen, a 180m MP 8b max opened by Arnaud Petit and Stéphane Husson in 1992. "This Monday signed the realization of a childhood dream. Delicatessen with my partner was extraordinary!"

Thomas is one of the wonder kids who did his first 8b+ when he was 15 years old and being 16 he onsighted an 8b. He has the last year done several 8c's. In the Youth World Champion in 2009, he was #12. More info in his french blog.

 
 
8c+ by David Firnenburg (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg who the last week did a 8B boulder has done Hattori Hanzo, 8c+ in Frankenjura. "Good moves but not often done. One crux of two hard moves in the beginning of the overhang. 25m."

In the combined ranking, the 17 year old is #11 but among the juniors he is #3. (His birthday was yesterday). In 2010, he was #3 in both the Youth World Champion and also in the Euro Youth Cup.

 
 
8c and more by Matilda Söderlund  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund has added also Odd Fellows 8c, which she did in only four tries, to her her very impressive Frankenjura tick list. "The crux was in the end on a section with just small crimps where positioning your body correctley was the key."

During one week she also did three 8b and three 8a+ beside the 8b+ flash we reported yesterday. Based on her ascents during 2012, the 20 year old and 174 cm tall swede is a contender for being #2 in the world after Sasha Digiulian. (c) Klaus Fengler - Morlock Shocker, 8b.

How does it feel to suddenly be one of the best female climbers in the world and how is it possible to combine hard core climbing on both short crimper routes in Frankenjura and long endurance routes in Spain?
Climbing wise it just feels very good. I have not been thinking about it. I have just been climbing and having fun. I like long routes and also vertical routes with small holds. I am motivated to try as many types and styles as possible in order to progress even more

 
 
8c (+) FA by Yuji Hirayama (43)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureYuji Hirayama has put up Cafecito Necesito, 8c (+) which is a 22m sligthly overhanging route that took him eight days of work. "It feels hard, as 8c+ on steep limestone but it's on granite and I spent so much time to understand. It might be 8c on granite grade. " Grade explenation.

Yuji (43) is one of the living legends who won his World Cup in 1993 and in 2000 he won overall. During the same period he was the leading onsight climber in the world. He has also done several famous speed ascent on El Cap and last year he put up a three pitch 8b which tops out at 4 025 m on Kinabalu.

(c) Kimiyo Fujibayashi

 
 
8b+ flash by Matilda Söderlund again  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund has flashed her second 8b+, Friends like you and the friend giving the perfect beta was Sarah Seger. "It is a relatively short and rather steep route with a crux in the beginning and one crux in the middle. My intention was just to put up the quick draws and to try the first crux. As I managed to do it I just thought to move on... =)"

Earlier this spring Matilda has during two trips during 12 climbing days, to the Lleida area, onsighted nine routes between 8a and 8b as well as flashed one 8b and one 8b+.

It could also be mentioned that the first 8b+ flash was done in the same way. Normally when you try to optimize your flash performance, you have several guys showing you the moves, preparing it with tick marks etc and the most extreme guys actually rappel it first in order to check all holds. (c) Klaus Fengler

 
 
8c OS and flash by Edu Marin  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdu Marin has had a nice day in Sant Miquel del Fai where he onsighted Pengim penjam, 8c and flashed Super món al revés, 8c on the same day. Edu is #3 in the ranking game.

"St. Miquel del Fai is a crag equipped by Marti Iglesias, near St. Feliu de Codines and is relatively close to Barcelona, about 45 min. I warmed up with a physical and rather short 8a and then I tried to flash a 8c/+, Super món al revés, not on sight because it connects with other routes that I have already done. The feeling was good, so I've been looking at Pengim Penjam, 8c.

I decided to try to onsight it and ... yeeesi! It is a physical route, overhanging for 30 meters with a perfect line of resistance with a couple of hard sequences. Two years ago I made three 8c onsight but no more until today, so it makes me particularly happy!

 
 
8A+ (B) flash by Niccolò Ceria (18)  (1) Facebook
 

Niccolò Ceria has flashed Dulcifer sit down in Switz for which he gives a personal grade of 8A+. "The five star boulder" was set up by Frederic Nicole. Here is an interview with the very tallented italian.

 
 
9a by Gabri Moroni  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabriele Moroni has had two nice weeks in Frankenjura were he has done two 8c+'s and yesterday he did The Essential, 9a. "Huge relief after falling 5 times at the last hard move!" The route was bolted in the 80's by Klaus Buechele and then rebolted by Werner Thon in the 90's before Markus Bock did the FA in 2008 and later Adam Ondra has repeated it.

Gabri has been on the boulder WC podium four times since he was #3 in the Euro Championship in 2004 being 17 years old.

 
 
8B+'s by Bernd Zangerl  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBernd Zangerl famous for being one of the pioneers of Magic Wood and many other areas around the globe has put up The Normopath, 8B (+) which is a traverse link up of an 8A and a 8A+ in Murgental. "It's a very long problem. 11 hard moves, followed by 9 "easy" pumpy moves to the top:-) It's very technical and finger power is needed!" He has also made the second repeat of Nicoles's Ragtime, 8B+ in Amden. (c) Steffen Kern

The next plan is to go to Norway and Austria and start travelling again in the autumn. Regarding MacLeod's statement of Swizz grades, "I am sure Brit grading is the hardest. New Base Line was called the benchmark for 8B+ but maybe now we have to get new bench mark from scotland:-) but it brings some more discussions....into climbing:-)"

 
 
9a+ by Sebastian Bouin  Facebook
 

Kairn reports that Seb Bouin has done the first repeat of Gerome Pouvreau's La Madone, 9a+ in Luberon. The route is 50 meters and consists of two 8c+' and it took him eleven sessions to do. Seb has previously done five 9a's.

 
 
70 pitches in 21 hours  (14) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTommy Caldwell reports that he together with Alex Honnold made some kind of record as they did 70 pitches up the three Yosemite classics, " El Cap, Half Dome and Mount Watkins all free in under 24 hours. It was amazing to team up with such a solid and inspiring partner." Climbing has all details of the amazing story.

 
 
8B by David Firnenburg (16)  (4) Facebook
 

David Firnenburg has done his first 8B, Grabmal in Frankenjura. "Six powerful moves through horizontal roof. Not the best conditions in the heat." The youngest female to have done 8B is Ashima Shiraiahi. Among the guys, Adam Ondra has the record being 15 when he did his first 8B+.

 
 
9a by Jon Cardwell  Facebook
 

Jon Cardwell has done his second 9a, Bad Girls Club in Rifle. "Great route to finally finish! Took 5 tries this year and a few days last July. Props to Joey Kinder for bolting and climbing this new school Rifle classic!"

 
 
9a by Said Belhaj  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSaid Belhaj has done Guerre de Nerfs i La Verrière after some six days of work. Some three years ago, Said snapped a pulley and did a surgery and he is now like 99 % recovered. Now he plans to try something really hard. Said lives in Sweden where he works as a professional musician but for climbing, he is a globetrotter.

 
 
9a by Thomas Neyer  Facebook
 

Thomas Neyer has done his first 9a, Hades in Nassereith Video "I tried the route for about 10 days in total and i'm pretty sure it's my hardest ascent to date. Hades offers quite steep and athletic climbing with no super hard moves but just one proper rest... Special thanks goes to Stefan Brunner who developed most of the routes at the crag!"

 
 
9a FA by Chris Zehani  Facebook
 

Chris Zehani has done his third 9a FA, Une epoque formidable in Orgon which took him some 30 days. It was bolted in 2004 and it is a 55 move "stamina monster".

 
 
First 8b+ by Heather Robinson  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHeather Robinson has done her first 8b+, Mon Pote Assis in Mt Potasi. "Oh my goodness! This send was a dream come true. Thank you Chris for believing in me and the countless belays. Super power endurance route. First female ascent!"

 
 
8b's by Philipp Gaßner (11)  Facebook
 

Philipp Gaßner has done two 8b's in Frankenjura, Plan B and Nose grind. The last time we saw such impressive ascents of a 11 year old in Frankenjura was Adam Ondra in 2004.

 
 
8b OS and 8c by Charlotte Durif  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharlotte Durif has had an amazing first week of May having done Cade Conscience, 8c, and Entre les Lignes, 8b+, in Oppidum. She's also onsighted L'amiral du Goret, 8b, in Atac and redpointed Kairn.con, 8b, in Rurey.

The name refers to that Kairn.com website which accused her of being a liar claiming undocumented ascents.

Charlotte has one of the best onsight track records in the world with one 8c, four 8b+ and 19 8bs, the first when she was 15 years old. In 2006, she won the Euro Championship being 16 years old. The last WC event she won was in Chamonix in 2010, two weeks before she did the questioned 8c onsight.

 
 
First 8C by Dave MacLeod  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave MacLeod reports that he has done the second ascent of Daniel Woods Mystic Stylez, 8C in Magic Woods. "All in all I probably tried it for 8 sessions. I’m pretty sure I could have done it in 4 if the conditions had stayed cold."

Last month Dave did New Base Line, 8B+ also in Magic Woods. He has also done sport routes up to 9a but he is most famous as one of the most succesful UK trad climbers who has produced several training books and videos.

 
 
NY Times Top Story: Ashima Shiraishi (11)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNY Times Top Story of today is a full length article about Asima Shiraishi who earlier this spring made Crown of Aragorn, 8B in Hueco. Only a few female have done 8B before but nobody as fast as Ashima (10).

"From Monday through Friday, she and Poppo take a crosstown bus to the West Side, then a D train to Brooklyn Boulders in Gowanus, where she practices from 4 to 7:30 p.m. Another hour of travel, and they are back home in Chelsea..."

 
 
9a FA by Daniel Woods  (4) Facebook
 

Climbing reports that Daniel Woods has done the FA of Mission impossible, 9a in Clear Creek Canyon. Instead of using a slash grade he says that it might be 9a+ as it is his hardest route ever. It took Daniel six days to do it and it was bolted by Jay Samuelson.

  2015
2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004


Videos
2015
2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
Next Page ->