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Ciavaldini and Pearson in Turkey 


Der Lindenthaler 8A+/B 

Der Lindenthaler 8A+/B from 45degrees on Vimeo.


Piotr Bunsch doing 8c in Chulilla 

Piotr Bunsch climbing Primer Asalto (8c) in Chulilla, Spain from Pablo Benedito on Vimeo.


Mirko Caballero portrait 


Lost in North America Ep. 10 | Red River Gorge, KY 


The bouldering level continous to go up 

During the last ten days, 81 boulders 8A+ and harder have been recorded in the 8a data base, confirming the increasing boulder level during the last years. Some years ago, 8B was world class often creating headlines but now 8a normally only report 8C for seniors as also 8B+ are very frequently done.

Hard core boulders recorded in the 8a data base during 2013 (total)
8C: 35 (139 in total)
8B+ 110 (737)
8B: 640 (2 934) Facebook

8c by Patxi Usobiaga and interview  (3)

Click to Enlarge PicturePatxi Usobiaga, one of the best competition climber in the history, has done T1 Full Equip, 8c in Oliana, which is very good news as it is his first hard route after his car accident some years ago. Here is a recent interview where he also talks about his future plans as a trainer. Facebook

The Climber's Culture - Joe 

The Climber's Culture - Joe from Gregory Packs on Vimeo.


Edu Marín & Sasha Digiulian climbing 'Bellavista', 8c big wall 


Boulder in La Pedriza (Madrid - Spain) Vol.1 & 2 


How to give and get a dynamic fall? 

The most important thing when it comes to dynamic falls is to move in or jump up. Read the full article.

It should be noted that in a rope drag situation belaying a lighter person it is almost impossible to give a dynamic belay. In this situation, giving out some extra slack is sometimes the only option if the belayer is not very experienced with walking in during a fall. Keep it safe. Facebook

Which is the best crash pad 2014? 


Guadalcazar - México 


The Climber's Culture - Rhys 

The Climber's Culture - Rhys from Gregory Packs on Vimeo.


Which is the Highest status climbing brand 

Based on 2 000+ votes to, Which is the Highest status climbing brand? Here is the result showing a great dominance for just four companies almost identical to a poll in 2009 even if actually La Sportiva has strengthen the market leading position.

35 % La Sportiva
23 % Petzl
15 % Black Diamond
08 % Five Ten
04 % Mammut
15% Other Facebook

What to expect in 2014? 

2013 has been an amazing year for the climbing community. It is not just that we have seen harder ascents then ever, the level has gone up more than any previous year and it includes both male and female, route and boulder and kids and oldies. So what to expect during 2014.

1. More amazing kids challenging the best seniors
2. 8C+ in bouldering and hundred guys doing 8B+
3. Adam Ondra create hype and win the WC
4. Asians starts to dominate the World Cups
5. Caldwell and Jorgesen establish the Dawn Wall

What can be added to the list? Facebook

Ignasi Tarrazona doing 'Soyuz', 8B+ in Zarzalejo 


How superior is Adam Ondra? 

2013 has been the best year ever for Adam Ondra with two 9b+ and three 9b's, all but one of them first ascents. He has also onsighted his first 9a. Chris Sharma has repeated one 9b+ and Megos has onsighted a 9a, but even so we have probably never seen such a superior #1 in the world, although we are more climbers than ever out on the rock.

The number of guys having done 9a, 9a+ and 9b are around 60, 10 and 1 which suggests that there are a great difficulty differences in the upper level. Add to Ondra's extreme current level and superiority the fact that most of his hardest ascents he has bolted and found all the sequences himself and furthermore, he is known for giving very stiff personal grades. What is also a reality is that actually only very few of all his more than 25 FA 9a's and harder have ever been repeated. Finally, Adam won the first WC he tried for three years.

Quantifying and understanding how superior Adam is might be done with using high jump centimeters and I suggest the following comparison.

9a = 227 cm
9a+ = 233 cm
9b = 239 cm
9b+ = 245 cm Facebook

Interview with Angie (9) - the youngest climber to have done 8b 

Click to Enlarge PictureWorld famous photographer Simon Carter has made a long and nice interview with Angie Scarth-Johnson who at just nine is the youngest person ever that have done an 8b. What make the story even more amazing is that her parents do not climb, Angie started when she was seven and she does all her training plans herself. Facebook

9a by Stefano Ghisolfi  (1)

Stefano Ghisolfi has done Grandi Gesti 9a in Sperlonga and he goes to #3 in the ranking game. During the last two years, he has been #10 in the Lead World Cup. " For the first time after 9 years I climbed with socks! Amazing route Facebook

Climber of the year 2013 - Draft  (34)

Here is a draft of the 8a Climber of the year 2013. We foremost value climbers doing different sport climbing disciplines and multiple ascents including FA's. Please give feedback of who you want higher up and who we are missing, especially some french guys. It has never been such a close race since for the Top-10 since we begun in 2000 even if Adam Ondra's #1 position is unchallenged.

1. Adam Ondra (1 also in 2012)
2. Anna Stöhr (17)
3. Alexander Megos (29)
4. James Webb (30)
5. Daniel Woods (3)
6. Jakob Schubert (2)
7. Ramon Julian Puigblanque (7)
8. Ashima Shiraishi (8)
9. Chris Sharma (19)
10. Sasha Digiulian
11. Jain Kim, Jan Hojer, Muriel Sarkany, Dmitry Sharafutdinov, David Graham, Mina Markovic, Akiyo Noguchi, Sean McColl, Alex Puccio, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, Sachi Amma, Kilian Fischhuber, Paul Robinson, Shauna Coxsey, Nalle Hukkataival, Gabri Moroni, Nina Caprez, Markus Bock, Mathieu Bouyoud, Tommy Caldwell, Nina Williams, Momoka Oda, Lukasz Dudek, Carlo Traversi, Nicky van Bergen, Juliane Wurm, Niccolo Ceria, Felipe Camargo, Samuel Ometz, Angie Payne, Chris Webb Parsons, Dai Koyamada Facebook

24 hours party people 8c by Moroni 


Highest status climbing brand?  (6)


Essentials of Climbing: Power with Jimmy Webb 

Essentials of Climbing: Power with Jimmy Webb from EASTERN MOUNTAIN SPORTS on Vimeo.


Core's guide to Varazze  (1)


The Climber's Culture - Primo 

The Climber's Culture - Primo from Gregory Packs on Vimeo.


Video - Exposure Vol.1 

Click to Enlarge PictureExposure Volume 1 is the latest Chuck Fryberger release as well as the begining of a series of different videos to come under the same title. The director of other super nice movies like The Scene, Core or Network returns with a film of his style where he likes to mix different types of climbing disciplines. In the current one you'll find anything from alpinism to bouldering in an attempt to show us what it takes for these athletes to perform the way they do.

Trad climbing with Matt Wilder, Cody Roth and Mason Earle, alpinism with the young Cheyne Lempe -who recently established a new solo speed world record in the Salathe route in El Capitán-, besides of bouldering with Angie Payne -trying 'Freaks of the Industry' (8B)-, Nalle Hukkataival also and, especially, Dave Graham who is shown completely focused on his never-ending task of scouting for incredibly hard boulder problems as well as trying and eventually doing the FA of his last 8C, 'Foundations Edge'.

All this with, as it is normal with Chuck's filmography, some spectacular photography and scenes. No doubt Chuck is becoming one of the most influential directors in the climbing world. You can download this motivating movie in HD here for $19.95.


8B by Carlos Alvares 


Australian climbing 

an Australian Climbing film from Phat Phriction on Vimeo.


Where can you save money #2 - DMM Revolver 

Click to Enlarge PictureBen Iseman who has worked many years in a climbing shop has made some an interesting comment to the - Where can you save money - article.

Quickdraws: "Really light draws wear out faster, and a reduced rope bearing surface also wears out ropes faster."

This means of course that if you plan to work, and probably fall several times on your project, you should pre-place your thickest and roundest carabiner there especially if it is in the beginning of the route.

"I take this idea one step further and place a quickdraw with a DMM revolver if there is a crux bolt where I expect to take a lot of falls. Rope wear is further reduced and the falls are softer. Keep in mind that you will fall a greater distance due to the pulley effect so assess risk accordingly."

The micro drawer impact on rope wear might actually be a possible explenation why climbers so often say that the same rope type often have different life span. Some rope manufacturer have also said that it happends that they can not explain to a complaining customer why he had to cut it after just one session with a brand new rope and quick draws. Facebook

Waem up with elastic bands  (1)

WARM UP WITH ELASTIC BAND from Climbingtraining on Vimeo.


Boulders de Campanha 

Boulders da Campanha 2 - MG from Crimb on Vimeo.


8B flash by Ruben Diaz Torres 


The boulderers enjoy and perform better in colder temperatures  (2)

Based on the third poll regarding, Best temperature for hard core bouldering?, we can see that the trend continous enjoying colder temperatures. In 2010, 29 % voted for 4 degrees celsius (39F) or lower which can be compared with 42 % in 2013. Today, only 14 % ay they enjoy the sun which can be compared with 21 % in 2010. The result for the 2012 poll is pretty much in between suggesting that there is a trend going on, see below percentage for the polls -13, -12 and -10.

Best temperature for hard core bouldering?
Below Freezing 9 - 7 - 7 (2013 - 2012 - 2010)
4 Celsius (39F) 33 - 28 - 22
8 Celsius (46F) 26 - 30 - 26
12 Celsius (54F) 17 - 18 - 21
I enjoy the sun 14 - 17 - 23

Klem Loskot, one of the boulder pioneers some 20 years ago has said, "Beside getting better friction with lower temperatures also the ski stays more dry which makes it resist better and is not destroyed on one single hold. The Austrian just realized it few years ago and says that this is also part of the grade inflation. Some old-school friction depending boulders are just easier with colder temperatures. Facebook

Climbing/Bouldering or both? 


Very different grade distribution - Routes vs Boulders 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra and Chris Sharma have done 9b+ and the total of guys having done two grades lower in 2013, i.e. 9a+, is ten and further more around 60 guys have done 9a or harder. This means that the top guys forms a rather pointy pyramid explaining how much harder one grade is in quantitative terms

When it comes to bouldering, the distribution for the hardest grades are the total opposite as around 40 boulderers have done 8C and the total number of guys having done two grades lower, i.e. 8B are several hundreds. Some ten years ago, when the boulderers started to establish 8C, the pyramid was also pointy but since more and more guys almost every years are just making it wider.

One explenation of this is of course that we have gone from inflation to deflation on the top level but that it is still some inflation going down further down. It seems that the 8C boulder level are very wide and probably some of these boulders are in fact 8C+. Any other theory? Facebook

Where can you save money?  (18)

Ropes: The more expensive ropes are at least equally more durable and it is better to avoid the ultra light ones. Buying a longer rope where you several times can cut some meters will make it last much longer. Another tip could be to change sides of a rope after several falls and let the rope rest. Theoretically, a rope can be worn out in just one session if you and your friends take hard falls in the beginning of a route. Washing a rope is also good in order to increase it's life span.

Shoes: The only really important equipment for your performance is the shoes. The only way to save money is, beside your performance shoe, also have one with a thicker sole especially for your indoor training. Do not forget to resole the shoe before it is to late.

Harness: Most value for your money you will normally get on the cheapest one.

Quick draws: Here is probably where you can save most money when you buy new ones as there is almost no performance difference between the expensive fancy one and the cheap ones. Further more, once the upper carabin is worn out, you could also replace it with a new one instead of buying a new set,.

Do you have any other ideas how to save money on climbing equipment to share? However, do not forget that safety is most important so do not push it here to save money. Facebook

Positive synergy thinking and sharing 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe best and the most famous rock climbers in the world like Ondra, Digiulian, Woods and Webb are just perfect role models when it comes to give credit to others and share our challenges in a non competitive environment. Maybe, their very positive and sharing approach are actually part of their success.

It is very nice and almost overwhelming to read what they through their scorecard comments like to share. It just might be that you could climb harder if you could be part of and create such synergy in your local community? Anyhow, your climbing life would be more enriched if you like the top guys, where part and surrounded by climbers with - Positive synergy thinking and sharing. Thanks! Facebook

Best temperature for hard core bouldering?  (1)


Swiss Time - Swiss Bouldering Film 

Swiss Time from Eliot Stephens on Vimeo.


A CLIMBING LIFE OPUS #5 - Romain Desgranges - Albarracin 


Lost in North America Ep. 9: "Five Star Climbing in the Lone Star State" Hueco Tanks, TX 


8a the most spread global climbing website 

Based on official statistics from is the only global climbing website. All the other big climbing websites have a very high concentration, 63 - 90 %, of their traffic from just their origin large country.

For, it is the opposite, only some 5 % of the traffic come from Sweden and the traffic is spread out evenly around all the climbing countries in the world with USA, Australia and Germany at the top, counting for 15 % each.

Another interesting figure is that only 5 % of the traffic come from a search engine and which can be compared to 9 - 22 % for the others. This means that 8a has more dedicated visitors compared to all other big climbing websites. On the other hand, this shows that we here have a great potential to reach more climbers if our links could get higher up on searches on Anybody who have some advises? Facebook

The Warm Heart of Africa - Malawi 

An article from Haroun Souirji, the producer of the film is comming up!

The Warm Heart Of Africa from Vast Motion Pictures on Vimeo.


8B+ by Samuel Ometz (18) 

Click to Enlarge PictureSamuel Ometz has done Fred Nicole's classical Radja in Branson from 1986 a second time. Now he did the original straight up undercling move which, as an eliminate, is a the first 8B+ in the world. "I think that the new version is not really a line from itself as you do two more moves just turning around the hard part of the original line."

Last year he did five 8B's being 17 and this year has has done 18 boulders 8B and harder including a flash. "My improvement probably comes from the recent break I did. 3 month ago, I had a bad ankle injury, and as I couldn't climb, I just trained as I could without feet, wich makes you gain stenght much faster ;) Facebook

Swiss bouldering  (1)

Swiss Season from Serious Climbing on Vimeo.


Copenhagen Cup Finals 2013 

The CB Cup Finals 2013 from randomPLAY / youID on Vimeo.


Climber Against Cancer - 2014 Calender incl. Anna Stöhr  (7)

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Climbers Against Cancer (CAC) has launched a charity calendar 2014 with female climbers stars like; Anna Stöhr, Akiyo Noguchi, Alex Puccio, Melissa Le Névé and Shauna Coxsey, who was responsible for the art direction. Buy 10 calenders for 220 euros.

Shauna said in an interview with, where you also can check the 12 pictures in a caravan shoot: “As a trustee of Climbers Against Cancer I wanted to do something different, fun and light hearted for the cause and this seemed perfect. A calendar full of climbing photos would draw some attention but people see us climbing all of the time so it wouldn’t be different or unique." Facebook

La Sportiva Sardinia Bloc Scouting - Teaser 


Go for a wide pyramid and long term progress and enjoyment 

Click to Enlarge PictureAll athletes want to reach new levels and normally it is a very slow process but climbers can take the fast track by dedicating themselves on a new personal best grade project. The dilemma is of course that you have not really become a better climber and your next project has to be even more specific if you are not so lucky that your old project gets down graded and you can look for a new soft one :)

Another possibility to measure progress in climbing is to try as many hard climbs as quick as possible to build a solid foundation for reaching new levels over longer periods, i.e. building wide pyramids. The risk if you build your pyramid to pointed or even straight up, it is actually that, most likely, it will fall down.

It is just to hard for your body and mind to always have a progress approach as the risk for injuries and anxiety increases dramatically. Instead, it seems like in the long run, the best recipe for becoming the best rock, and making climbing your life style, is focusing on building wide pyramids. Facebook

8b+ by Stephanie Ko Pound  (2)

Click to Enlarge PictureStephanie Ko Pound has done her first 8b+, The Juice in Jailhouse. "So psyched! Really tough for me. Big moves on steep roofs to a powerful red point crux at the top."

Stephanie is a weekend warrior who has been working the route once a week since October. The 32 year old started to boulder in 2001 but six years ago she transitioned to ropes. "My next big project will be Big House. It gets the same grade as the Juice, but is harder. :) " Facebook

8b again by Maria Davies Sandbu (19) 

Maria Davies Sandbu has done Marroncita in Oliana, her fourth 8b of the month. The 19 year old has also onsighted her first 8a, Misha, still in Oliana. In the last World Cup, the Norwegian was #19. Facebook

9a again by Enzo Oddo (16) 

Planetmountain reports that Enzo Oddo has done Estado Critico, 9a in Siurana. Facebook

Onsight slaughter by Jan Hojer 

Jan Hojer has during the last week in Geyik Bayiri insighted 11 routes between 8a and 8b. In 2010, the 19 year old was #2 in the Euro Youth Cup but last year he focused on bouldering, winning one Euro Youth Cup and among the seniors he was #10 in the last WC. Facebook

8B's by Stefano Ghisolfi (18) ˇˇUpdate 8B+  (3)

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has during the last two weeks done nine 8A's and harder including two 8B's today in Varazze, Gioia stand and Alphacentauri. Prior to the Christmas break the 18 year old had only done two 8A's! In the Combined junior ranking Game, he is #2 after Adam Ondra.

Stefano is also a succesful competition climber in all three disciplines. The last four years has been #3, #3, #2 and #2 in the overall Euro Youth Cup and in 2011 he was #3 in Speed. In the Bouldering World Champion he was #25. (c) Elio Cacchio

Today the 18 year old did his third personal best in two weeks by Gandalf il grigro, 8B+ in Varazze. Portrait is coming up and tomorrow he is bouldering with C Core. Facebook

8c again by Tim Unuk (15)  (2)

Tim Unuk has done his second 8c, La teoria dell'8a in Sperlonga. In the Euro Youth Cup, the 15 year old was #2. Facebook

8c by Ciavaldini and Pearson 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Pearson reports that he and his girlfriend Caroline Ciavaldini have done Metaphysique des Tubes, 8c in Seynes on 2:nd Go. Caroline also did Biotop, 8b+ at Claret and James Guere d'Usure, 8c in Seynes.

"Over the next 2 months Caroline and I will be exploring new areas in Malaysia and Laos. We will take some photos and write a little report each week - like a little postcard." Facebook

8A by Alex Puccio  (7)

Alex Puccio starts 2012 by doing her 31th 8A or harder, Dark Art in Anston Stones. "did it in about 5 or 6 tries. Fun day out with good people! Good start to a new year. :)" Her boyfriend, the working class hero - see interview from Australia, Chris Webb-Parsons flashed it. Facebook

Another 8B+ FA by Graham 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham has opened his 19th 8B+ or harder Memory is Parallax in Elkland. In total, Dave has since 1999 recorded 426 boulders 8A and harder out of which 150 FA's. (c)

"The incredible "nickis" project. Took me a considerable amount of effort in between a couple voyages, and had to stick to it in some gnarly conditions. Amazing climbing with drop knees, smears, and small crimps. Looks kinda like Stained Glass, but its much bigger! SYKED!!! Facebook

Two 7C+ (8A) by Mirko Caballero (10) 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero has done Water Hazard and Dance the night away in Bishop giving both 7C+. The 10 year old has previously done three 8A's. Facebook

9a by Mathieu Bouyoud 

Mathieu Bouyoud has had some productive days in Santa Linya where he did Fabela pa la Enmienda, 9a one 8c+ and two 8b onsights. He finishes the game by being #4. Last year he opened two 9a's in La Balme. Facebook

8b+ OS again by Domen Škofic (17)  (3)

Domen Škofic has onsighted alea Borraka, 8b+ in Siurana and the 17 year old finishes the 2011 ranking game as #6. "Perfect end of the year! Tried also La Rambla and did it in 6 parts. Next time! Now let's go party!!! :D" Facebook

8c onsight by Klemen Becan  (1)

Klemen Becan reports on Facebook, "Nice beginning of the year. Another 8c a vista in Arcidona. Next time Orujo." (9a+) Last year, the Slovenian was #7 in the Boulder World Cup. Facebook

Andrada 2011 sum up 

Dani Andrada gives us the stats for 2011:
First Ascents = 49, 8c to 8c+/9a = 15, 8a or harder = 163 and some boulders up to 8B Facebook

9a (+) Magnus Midtbř 

Magnus Midtbř has done Directa Open your mind, 9a (+) in Santa Linya making 2011 his best year ever including being #4 in the world championship. Here he summarizes 2011 and looks forward as well as explain his training. Facebook

8A again by Kasia Pietras  (2)

Click to Enlarge PictureKasia Pietras has done her second 8A during the last two weeks, Gross's Roof in Cumberland. In total, she has done eight boulders 7C and harder during the last fortnight. Kaisa is showing good progress as she did her first 7C+ in August. Facebook

First 8c+ by Gareth Parry (38) 

Gareth Parry who has been doing World Cups the last 17 years and who won Arco Bouldering Rock Master in 2007 has done his first 8c+, Blomu in Santa Linya. His first 8c he did when he was 35 and the last month he has done another two. Climbing is just amazing? The answer on how it is possible to continue to progress being 38 is coming up :-) Coaching & Adventures with Gaz Facebook

Two 8a+ OS by Malin Holmberg  (5)

Click to Enlarge PictureMalin Holmberg has onsighted two 8a+ in Geyik Bayiri, Olympus Games and Colonist. During the last week, she has also onsighted six 8a's and it should be mentioned that these stats include three personal grades.

In 2011, Malin has also done two 8a cracks placing her own gear. In 2009, the Swede won the Nordic Lead Champion. Facebook

Gerard Rull's record recovery *Interview  (6)

Click to Enlarge PictureGerard Rull did snap his pulley as he was trying Aitzol, 8c in Margalef. Six months later, after surgery for the pulley reconstruction, he did it and since then he has been climbing harder than ever. During the last two months he has bagged three 8c+'s and two 8b's on-sight. * In this interview in Spanish you can see his 2 last months complete tick list. Facebook

8b+ by Helena Alemán again 

Helena Alemán has done her tenth 8b+, China Crises in Oliana. She has also previously done five 8c' and in the game she is #4. Facebook

9a by Sébastien Bouin again 

Beal reports that Sébastien Bouin has repeated Chris Sharma's 50 meter Era Bella, 9a in Margalef. Just some few days ago he did Complex du playboy, 9a/+ in Luberon. Facebook

9a+ by Enzo Oddo (16) 

Grimper reports that wonderkid Enzo Oddo has done La Rambla, 9a+ in Siurana. Alex Huber put it up as an 8c+ in 1994 and then Ramonet added an extension giving it 9a+. Later on, many have confirmed that the extension does not add so much in difficulty suggesting that Hubers FA was sandbagged. Facebook

Ramonet's 8c goes to 8c+ and then 8c+/9a or 9a  (4)

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque put up La Reina del Mora in Siurana as an 8c in 2008 which he did on his fourth try. Last year Nicolas Favresse repeated it suggesting 8c+, video. Yesterday, Dani Andrada (36) blogged about his third ascent calling it "at least 8c+/9a or 9a." (c) Victor Montilla. Facebook

8B+ and 8B by Gregor Peirce (19)  (1)

Gregor Peirce has done The Swarm, 8B+ and Direction, 8B in Bishop. "Soooo Good! I don't think there is a better boulder. V14 and V13 today! after a 6 hour drive. This one means a lot to me." Facebook

9a by Magnus Midtbř again 

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbř has done Fuck the system, 9a in Santa Linya. "Now I’m ready to try something harder!" This was the sixth 9a or harder for the norwegian who was #4 in the World Champion in 2011.

Interview where he describes also his training. Yesterday, his sister Hannah did Fabelita, 8c also at Santa Linya. More pics by Henning Wang on Magnus website. Facebook

8A+ by Katja Vidmar  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureKatja Vidmar has done her first 8A+, Petting with an alligator in Maltatal. "Another arctic expedition to Maltatal. This time no snow on the top outs. Best Christmas present ever and one of the sweetest moments of my climbing life." Video

In 2008, Katja was #2 in two World Cups and in the only one she did this year, she was #4. Katja's sister Maja won the Lead World Cup in 2007. (c) Marko Bratina Facebook

9a/+ by Seb Bouin  (4)

Kairn reports in french that Seb Bouin has done his third 9a or harder by doing Complexe du playboy, 9a/+ in Luberon. Facebook

8c by Hannah Midtbř  (1)

Hannah Midtbř sister to Magnus has done her first 8c, Fabelita in Santa Linya which is her home crag this winter. In 2008, Hannah was #3 in the European Boulder Championship and in 2009, she was #2 in the Euro Youth Cup. Facebook

9a by Ben Spannuth  (2)

Ben Spannuth has done his second 9a, Golden Ticket in Red River Gorge. "World class, varied and interesting movement on perfect rock. Adam nabbed the gem of the gorge with this one."

In the comment, Ben discusses the static/dynamic technique. Facebook

9a+ by Sachi Anma  (5)

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Anma has made the first repeat of Chris Sharma's Pachamama, 9a+ in Oliana. "The best route in my life. I spend 7 days last year, 7 days this year. Harder than Papichulo. I am sooo happy."

In the World Cup 2011 he was #3 and his worst result out of nine competitions was #4! This year Sachi finished standing on the podium for the seven last World Cups and in total he has been up there 13 times but yet no victory. As a junior he won the world championship in 2006 and 2007. (c)Breceljnik Jure Facebook

8a (+) OS by Andrea Gennari Daneri (46) 

Andrea Gennari Daneri has onsighted La Voca de la voz in Chulilla giving it a personal grade of 8a and it total the 46 year old has onsighted six 8a's in 2011. On the same day he also onsigthed El Ramallar giving it a personal grade of 7c+. Facebook

8A by Kasia and Isabelle (18) 

Kasia Pietras and Isabelle Faus (18) have done Sunshine, 8A in Hueco Tanks. For Kaisa it was her first 8A, "So psyched! Fell off the last move! Was so tired but gave it my all and sent!! So psyched!" Facebook

8B by Gu and Pringle in Font  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg did today Ubik assis, 8B in Fontainebleau, (c) Baboonmaster, and so did Ethan Pringle: "Jump all the way from pinch to the top on the stand 3rd go but had to do it an easier way coming from the sit. Such a nice wall with really fun moves and sick holds. One day! AO would most def flash. Facebook

8b+ 2nd go by Matilda Söderlund (19) 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund who started the week by flashing two 8b's in Santa Linya, did today Rollito Sharma, 8b+ 2nd go.

The best possible explanation for t herecent dramatic progress of the tall, 174 cm, is that she has been climbing full time since she finished high school in June and in September she trained with guru David Macia for a month.

Tomorrow is her last day in Santa Linya and then New Year at Railay. In 2012 she hopes to do more World Cups and return to Spain. (c) Jonas Paulsson Facebook

8B+ by James Webb 

James Webb has done Esperanza in Hueco Tanks which was his fifth 8B+ in 2011. "Felt amazing! Did all the moves quick, 2nd go from the start." Facebook

8B by Niccolň Ceria (18) 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolň Ceria has done Vecchio Leone, 8B in Brione. "A symbol of bouldering for me. Thanks to Gabri for the day." Interview with the rising star who did The never ending story, 8B+ when he was 17 years old. On the picture he does Total Eclipse, 8A+. Facebook

Two 8b flashes by Matilda Söderlund (19)  (2)

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund who was #2 in the last Euro Youth Cup has flashed two 8b's in Santa Linya, Ruta del sol and Santa Linya. It is Hannah Midtbö who gave the excellent beta.

This autumn she was #3 in the Swedish Championships competing with the guys. Matilda has previously onsighted four 7c+' and two 8a's in Spain. She lives in Stockholm where almost all routes are the opposite of being long and overhanging like in Spain. Facebook

Personal grade again by Adam Ondra  (27)

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra made the headlines by flashing the confirmed 8B+ Gecko assis in Fontainebleau yesterday. Today, he wants to reduce the hype by giving it a personal grade of 8B.

A notorious dilemma with the grade, fits perfectly my style, height and conditions were awesome. But the second climbing day, a bit tired and not fully on the limit. I would love to record it as 8B+, but it just did not feel like 8B+... that is my feeling.

One week ago he suggested a personal upgrade for Gioia to 8C+. Adam has been giving personal grades since he was 14 years old and for many of his personal best, like his first 8c+ onsight, he has not taken the easy and more prestigious way of just confirming the grades. (c) Lukás Vancura Facebook

Matteo Gambaro (37) at his peak 

Matteo Gambaro has onsighted yet another 8a+, Lupo de lupis in Grotti. The 37 year old has been climbing since he was 22 but this year is his best ever. "Climbing is my life and I want progress too!! 2012 is the end of the world and I must arrive at 9a and 8b OS. I am not old!" Facebook

8B+ by Daniel Beall  (2)

Daniel Beall has done his first 8B+, Direct North in Buttermilks. "Grades are a mystery to me, but I think this climb is probably on the soft side of 8B+. Sent by headlamp, and my camera doesn't do well in low light. : Here's video of my second to last go." Facebook

8B+ flash by Adam Ondra  (18)

Adam Ondra takes it yet to a new level by flashing Gecko assis, 8B+ in Fontainebleau. Facebook

8B+ FA by Robinson and movie plans 

Paul Robinson has made the FA of The Traphouse, 8B+, in Fontainebleau. This boulder is a direct finish of Gourmandise into Le Dernier Flu.

The ascent was filmed for the Welcome to the Hood video featuring also Gullsten, Woods and Jörg in Austria, Switzerland, Font, Red Rocks and Hueco. Facebook

8b+ by Marieta Cartró Iriarte 

Click to Enlarge PictureMarieta Cartró Iriarte has done her first 8b+, China Crisis, in Oliana. By checking her trend diagram, we should not be surprised if she will continue to progress, eventually reaching 8c in 2012. Facebook

8B's by Anthony Gullsten (19) again 

Anthony Gullsten did two more 8B's in Fontainebleau today, Ubik assis and L'Apparemment en départ bas. During the last 2.5 weeks he has done seven 8B´s and seven 8A+. Chatting with him asking for thoughts how come he has stepped up so lately?

"I don't know. I got lucky. It feels good to climb at the moment." Anyhow, finally he says, "Tomorrow I want to try something harder; Gecko, Kheops or Island (8B+), that's at least the ones that I am psyched on." Facebook

Ondra delivers also in Fontainebleau  (8)

Straight after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where, in the first two days, he flashed La Merveille, 8A (+) and Fata Morgana, 8A+ (B) for which personal grades were suggested. Furthermore, he has made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B. Facebook

8c+ by Alizee Dufraisse  (3)

Click to Enlarge PictureKairn reports that Alizee Dufraisse has done her first 8c+, Patinoso in Siurana which is a 40m long. She has previously done two 8c's in Céüse. Interview from 2009 with the former pole vaulter with 4.35 as personal best. Facebook

Nalle flashes 8B reports that Nalle Hukkataival has flashed Crown of Aragorn, 8B in Hueco Tanks which is a traverse Fred Nicole put up in 1996. Facebook

8c (b+) by Helena Alemán 

Helena Alemán has done T1 full equipe, 8c (b+) in Oliana. Last year Helena did four 8c. There are now some 40 female who have done 8c but only a handfull have done 8c+ out of which three have done 9a. Facebook

8A by Jill Church 

Jill Church has done Beefy Gecko, 8A in Bishop. "First 8A so probably soft, but felt hard to me. Three heel hooks, two toe hooks and a knee bar." Facebook

David Lama makes history again  (11)

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Lama reports that he has done Feuertaufe, 8b in Lofer. "It offers great climbing in best wall and who’s at this level deffo has to try the route. And here’s a rating-suggestion from Hansjörg Auer and me: 7a+, 8b, 7c+, 6b, 7a, 7c+, 8a (Original: 7c, 8b+, 8a+, 6b, 7b+, 8a+, 8a+).

Two weeks ago David put up a six pitcher above Cevio/Ticino including two 8b+ and two 8a+ which Pesche Wüthrich had bolted. David is one of the most gifted climber equally impressive in all disciplines. In 2006, being 16 years old, he was second in his World Cup debut. The next event he won and then he won the European Championship and in between he won his Boulder WC debut. © Rainer Eder Facebook


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