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Three 8A's in Västervik by Coxsey and Leslie-Wujastyk  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey and Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, (c) Jim Wasmuth, have done the same three 8A's during the Västervik Boulder Meet.

Mina's blog: "We were met with incredible hospitality and kindness from the climbers there. We were shown around some great bouldering areas and got to try some really cool lines. The granite is good quality and varied which means lots of types of boulders to keep busy on.

Shauna: "Västervik is an amazing place with great boulders in beautiful settings. The lines and the rock quality are really good and the climbing is so varied. The locals have been extremely kind, friendly and helpful." More in Shauna's blog

What is next?
Mina: Next plan is to be in Sheffield for a while and do some training and climbing in the Peak. Then back to the US after Christmas.
Shauna: I will spend some time in Spain (route climbing) and then home for the WCs and Kendal film fesitval before heading to Swiss and Font.

 
 
Rushing Through Font In 3 Days  Facebook
 

 
 
A visit to the county  Facebook
 

A visit to the County from Wild Country on Vimeo.

 
 
Matt Fultz in Rocklands  Facebook
 

Matt Fultz in the Rocklands from Solid Rock - Climbers for Christ on Vimeo.

 
 
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in Rocklands: Trailer  Facebook
 

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: Rocklands 2013 from team_BMC on Vimeo.

 
 
Abella de La Conca now 200+ routes and projects  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNicolas Durand reports that there are now 200+ routes in Abella de La Conca, located 2 h west of Barcelona and the potential for more routes are endless. Nicolas will open a refugio within some months and most of the sectors are within 30 min walking distance and you can climb year around and all grades up to 9a are available, Ticklist

Pep Boixados from the Barcelona bouldering gym, Deu Dits has opened or financed most of the routes with Nicolas as a runner up with 63. In 2014, Nicolas hopes to open another 50+ routes on four different sectors. The picture shows the new autumn/winter sector with several 35 m pure resistence projects put up by Jack Griffiths and Pierre Delas.

 
 
Bellavista 8c (b) in winter conditions on 3.5 limbs by Dave MacLeod  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave MacLeod reports in a nice blog that he has repeated Bellavista "on 3.5 limbs" in winter conditions.

"My ankle hurt on the walk-in, I couldn’t do certain movements with it on the rock... It was well below zero and blowing a bitter wind. Seconding him (Alan Cassidy), I felt like a frozen robot, clawing up the rock with zero feedback from my digits."

The 500 metres Bellavista, located in the Dolomites, was put as an 8c by Alex Huber in 2001 and this is what most calls it including MacLeod but even 8b has been mentioned in 2013.

 
 
Australia's Rock closes down after 35 year  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRock climbing magazine in Australia will discontinue it's publication which means Verticak Life Mag is the only climbing media left in Australia.


"We have made the difficult decision to close Rock magazine, an iconic Australian sporting title that has been published for in excess of 35 years. After discussions with industry and enthusiasts we have been unable to find a buyer for the magazine who is able to take on the task of overseeing the iconic masthead.

Produced in print and digital formats quarterly, the title will now be withdrawn from the market with the Winter edition being the last produced.

 
 
9a by Benoît Heintz  Facebook
 

 
 
World Cup Puurs Finals  Facebook
 

 
 
World Cup Puurs: Schubert & Kim  (10) Facebook
 

1. Jain Kim KOR - Jakob Schubert AUT
2. Mina Markovic SLO - Sachi Amma JPN
3. Momoka Oda JPN - Sean McColl CAN
Complete results
Video of the final

Four out of the finalists fell on the same jump and Jakob commets on the IFSC streaming that nobody had planned to jump there but as he heard the crowd screaming he started to think that a jump is the solution. The tallest of the finalists, 173 cm, did the dynamic move the fastest and said this was part of the reason why he won.

Mina did top the route but she had passed the eight minute time limit when she had two moves left. However, Jain had won anyhow as she was in the lead after the semi.

 
 
Blocs & Walls in Copenhagen  Facebook
 

Blocs & Walls Opening from randomPLAY / youID on Vimeo.

 
 
Lead WC after three events  Facebook
 

1. Sachi Amma 260 - Jain Kim 265
2. Ramon J Puigblanque 208 - Mina Markovic 260
3. Jakob Schubert 180 - Helene Janicot 163
4. Manuel Romain 139 - Momoka Oda 157
5. Magnus Midtbö 129 - Dinara Fakhritdinova 150

Complete ranking

 
 
Essentials of Climbing: Rope Coiling  (3) Facebook
 

Essentials of Climbing: Rope Coiling from EASTERN MOUNTAIN SPORTS on Vimeo.

 
 
Lost in North America: Ep. 3 - Through hell and high water | Squamish  Facebook
 

 
 
9a and 8C again by Daniel Woods  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has done his 18th 8C, Delirium in Mt Evans. "2nd ascent, fall has arrived! This line is the power 8C. Definitely a completely new line than wheel of Wolvo. Everything about it is different including moves, style, and mental approach. For me hard 8B+ intro into hard 8A+. Nice one on Jimmy Webby's part for establishing the stand and the full line!"

Last week he did, Bad Girls Club 9a in Rifle. During the last seven years he has been Top-2 in the 8a Combined ranking game. (c) Eddie Gianelloni

Also on the competition scene, he has remarkable good results. Since 2006, he has participated in 13 WC's and his worst result is #13 and the best is a victory. This year he won both the Lead and Boulder nationals and for bouldering it was his seventh win. Not bad for a guy who is 24 years old who just did serious indoor prepаration when he was a teenager.

" It is a goal of mine though to do the circuit. Just need to figure out when I want to dedicate time to training. Being familiar with problem solving on plastic, the texture of the holds, and movement is vital for doing well.

 
 
No more wet holds  Facebook
 

Very good idea for the coming winter season and possibly it works best on finger holds like in Frankenjura but could you come up with an example that this actually could make the climb easier?

Cure for a Wet Hold from DMM Climbing on Vimeo.

 
 
Live streaming at TNF Kalymnos Festival  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"The Festival will be streamed LIVE across the web. With coverage starting on Thursday 10th October 2013, we’ll be delivering all the climbing action from the best spots in the island.

Throughout the broadcast we’ll be bringing you a peek behind the scenes, exclusive interviews with some of climbers’ most legendary
characters. We’ll also be touring the venue, covering the seaside Story Teller Night and giving recap of the days events.


More info and link to live streaming

 
 
Brooke Raboutou shatters climbing records  Facebook
 

 
 
Traversi brothers in Font  Facebook
 

 
 
Harnesses without a belay-loop is better especially for girls and kids  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe blue Grigri on the picture stands 30 cm from my body meanwhile the Grigri2, connected with Edelrid's Loopo harness without a belay-loop, comes just 14 cm out. Obviously, the closer the Grigri is to your body, the easier it is to feed out and take in rope which have a great impact on how good belayer you are.

The 16 cm differences come mainly from the belay loop which 99.99 % of the harnesses have. Five cm of the differences come from that the GriGri2 is smaller and that it is connected with the smallest screw carabiner on the market.

I have been using Edelrid's Loopo, without a belay-loop for two years now and last week I was amazed how much tiring it was to do a top rope session borrowing my wife's harness and further more, I actually felt like a worse lead belayer during some lead climbing.

OK, I am just 167 cm but in practice I had to work double as hard to feed out and take in rope with the harness with a belay-loop. In fact, using a harness without a belay-loop could mean that you in the future will prevent your partner from an accident, especially if you have short arms./Jens Larssen

 
 
Chris Webb Parsons Collateral 8B  Facebook
 

Chris Webb Parsons Collateral 8B from chris webb parsons on Vimeo.

 
 
Sins at Magic Wood  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas Saluz has written a blog Sins in Magic Wood. (The 8a access posters talks about some things to remember but most important is actually to spread the info to the guys misbehaving.)

"Due the increasing numbers of visitors and the with it the related problems, we as tenants of the Campground and the Gasthaus Edelweiss, would like to ask kindly for your support in the following points. Nature got treatend with disrespect and when the holidays are over, people escape and leave everything behind. The next visitor or us as tenants can look how to deal with the shit the best way.

The campground got full of shit and really filthy just because of a few black sheeps, that it‘s a thorn in the communities eye. The surrounding area and path were full of toiletpaper and pooh, that every hiker who came along, got a lurched stomach."

 
 
City and Country origin of 8a visitors, ranked by number of visits  Facebook
 

1. Stockholm
2. Munich
3. Vienna
4. Madrid
5. London, Innsbruck, Barcelona, Zurich, Gothenburg, Oslo, Helsinki, Milan, Sydney, Prague

1. Germany - 12 %
2. USA - 11 %
3. Spain - 10 %
4. Sweden - 7
5. Italy - 6 %, Austria, France, Switzerland, UK, Norway

 
 
Lost in North America: Ep. 2 - The Gunks & S. Dakota  Facebook
 

 
 
Adidas Rockstars 2013  Facebook
 

 
 
Kids bouldering festival in Siberia  Facebook
 

Детские Хитрушки на Столбах 2013 from a_kichkailo on Vimeo.

 
 
'Welcome to Rocklands' by Dave Mason  Facebook
 

 
 
Eiger Trilogy by Roger Schaeli  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn early August, Swiss alpinist Roger Schaeli redpointed the Piola Ghilini Direttissima, and then fulfilled a long time dream of his to redpoint the three direttissima on the north face of Eiger. Roger teamed up with well known German mountain guide, Robert Jasper, for all the three free climbs. Alvaro Susena met Roger, (to the left in the picture by Franke Kretschmann), at Arco Rock Master, and here is
a short interview.

 
 
Just can't stop climbing  Facebook
 

Just can't stop climbing from Carsonclimbz on Vimeo.

 
 
8A FA in Fionnay  Facebook
 

Off The System from Nils Favre on Vimeo.

 
 
Martina Mali Rumble in the Jungle 8a+  (4) Facebook
 

Nice video from Jason Kehl showing Martina Mali's ascent of Rumble in the Jungle in Hueco.

Deadpoint Magazine did an interview with Mali about the climb where she explains, among other things, what it was like to spend the winter running the Hueco Rock Ranch and how she climbed Rumble:

I think it's important to say that I did Rumble because of the problem itself and not because of the grade. I am not sure how hard it is with the kneebars, but I know there are a lot more options now for beta on the problem and I am super psyched I found this beta, because it worked for me and I got to climb this beautiful problem.

Read the full interview here: Interview with Martina Mali on DPM

 
 
Paraclimbers at Arco Rock Legends  Facebook
 

 
 
Poland recommendations  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKinga Ociepka-Grzegulska has put together some recom- mendations for doing a roadtrip to Poland. The picture by Adam Kokot is from Pochylec where Kinga is doing an 8b+.

"In Southern Jura you have Pochylec located about 30 km form Cracow. Pochylec is one of the highest rock for sport climbing (about 25m), and most of the routes there are above 7c. Besides Pochylec there are 3 bigger valleys next to Cracow (Dolina Bolechowicka, Bedkówska, Kobylanska) - with a lot climbing in white limestone.

In Northern Jura the best crags are; Podzamcze, Okiennik Wielki, Podlesice also climbing on white limestone. A fourth big crag is Sokoliki, next to Jelenia Góra, where you can climb in granit.

For those who want to climb on multipich routes I recommend Tatras on south of Poland next to Zakopane. The best time to climb in Poland is summer, but you can climb from april to october.

 
 
Kruder and Wurm win Adidas Rockstar  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJernej Kruder and Julie Wurm are the winners of the third edition of Adidas Rockstar. Complete results

Jernej, who did The Story of Two World's 8C this winter, has been a succesful competition climber for years, two times being #4 in the Boulder WC. The format seems perfect for him with all his emotions and it surely was exciting for the spectators, especially to see the rather big guy stand on the top of the boulders.

Juliane won her first WC event this year and during the last four years she has always been Top-6 overall.

 
 
Welcome to Rocklands  Facebook
 

Welcome to Rocklands from David Mason on Vimeo.

 
 
Boulder flooded  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJamie Emerson reports that there will be limited possibilities to climb around Boulder due to heavy rain the last week.

"All three roads into Estes Park (US HWY 36, 34, and 7) are totally washed out. These are the access roads into Estes that almost every climber would drive on to get to RMNP, Chaos Canyon, Elkland, Wild Basin, Lumpy Ridge, The Monestary, etc. Additionally, the road into Eldorado Canyon is washed out. There is no word yet on Boulder Canyon, as that road remains closed. It's going to be presumably a long time before many of these roads are fixed.

Right now the focus has been on helping people, so not much has been said about when the roads will reopen. With the season for Chaos Canyon ending usually at the end of October, it's possible there will be no season at all. Many climbers came together to help each other out and with so many climbers here in the Front Range everyone was affected in some way or another. After nearly a week of rain it seems that it has finally subsided. Here is another report from Peter Beal

 
 
The Franken experience: Moroni & Reffo  Facebook
 

 
 
Tommy Caldwell portrait  Facebook
 

 
 
One Day with The Tor, Raven Tor Bouldering  Facebook
 

A Day with The Tor from Eliot Stephens on Vimeo.

 
 
Women Climbing Symposium London 2/11  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe third edition of Women Climbing Symposium will take place November 2 at The Arch Climbing Wall in London. They sold out the two first years and there are 200 spots available including 40 non-coaching tickets. More info including a video.

Shauna Coxsey, one of the best boulderers in the world, "I love helping people and using my knowledge and experience to give others a better understanding of their climbing. I like seeing people achieve their goals and I think it is incredible that I have the opportunity to help people achieve them. My experiences in the climbing world are quite extensive and I have learnt so much from so many different people. I can’t wait to coach at this year’s symposium and do my best to help the lucky women who are attending the day!

 
 
Many kids below 13 do 8A and 8b+  Facebook
 

During 2013, there is just an explosion of wonder kids that have done 8A or 8b+ and many of these remarkable ascents are not reported. Normally we need an OK from their parents or that the news is already out there, in order to make head lines for the kids that have not yet turned teenager.

I would guess that at least a 15 kids have at least done 8A or 8b+ the last year, which could be compared with three years ago where we heard maybe one or two such ascents. I would not be surprised if we will have a dozen below 10 years old, doing 8A or 8b+ within few years. Climbing is amazing :)

 
 
O'Rourke Lincoln Lake  Facebook
 

O'Rourke Lincoln Lake from Mad Rock Climbing on Vimeo.

 
 
Chris Schulte doing 8C in Font  Facebook
 

 
 
Adidas Rockstars - Sport Meets Music  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe third edition of Adidas Rockstars will take place this Friday and Saturday in Stuttgart. This event's line-up is more impressive than ever; Alex Puccio (picture), Digiulian, Noguchi, Coxsey, Le Neve, Kim, Saurwein, Dufraisse, Markovic, Hukkataival, McColl, Sharafutdinov, Gelmanov, Amma, Mondet, Moroni, Webb-Parsons, Hojer and Verhoeven. In total, 50 athletes will start at Friday's qualifier.

The final on Saturday will be Streamed Live starting at 19.15. The webcast starts with the concert of the punkrock band Badasstics, and ends with the award ceremony at 23h00.

In the qualification and semifinal, the competition format is the more or less the same as in the World Cups. During the final round, the 6 finalists climb two different boulders. The 3 best finalists of this round fight on a third boulder problem for the super final.

During the super final, two climbers compete on identical routes, and the first person standing on the top of the boulder after hitting a buzzer is the winner.

 
 
Lost in North America: Ep. 1 - Rumney, NH  Facebook
 

 
 
Arco - Boulder Women Final  Facebook
 

 
 
Advanced Training for Climbing  Facebook
 

 
 
Heritage - 71 minutes of great (2) Stories  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has together with his girl friend produced Heritage where Carlo gives us his stories of success and failures doing some of the hardest boulders in the world including the Story of Two Worlds 8C and finding his heritage in southern Switzerland in the fall 2012. Everything with the film is great including camera work, editing and even the music. Looking at it, you realize how much hard work and frustration it is to create an 8C headline on 8a and let us hope we can see more like this in the future to stay away from all the numbers. Read More, Check trailer and Buy it for USD 10.

 
 
Alexander Megos interview  Facebook
 

Vertical Life Mag has a nice interview with Alexander Megos which sums up his trip to Australia. "Taipan is definitely one of the best walls on Earth and to be honest I have never climbed some sport routes on a wall which is more impressive than the Taipan Wall.

 
 
 
8A by Stefanie Mathar again  Facebook
 

Stefanie Mathar has done her second 8A, Beefy Gecko in Bishop. Last year she did her first 7C (+) and this year she has already done six 7C+ and two 8A's putting her as #7 in the Game.

 
 
Two 8c+ by Ben Spannuth in USA  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBen Spannuth who had a personal best of 8b+ before he went to Spain in august, where he stepped up to 9a, has done two 8c+ in Red River Gorge.

He graduated in May and trained harder than ever during the summer which seems to have paid of reaching a new level. The 8c+' he did within 45 minutes and he has also onsighted two 8a+ etc putting him as #7 in the Game.

 
 
Gu is on fire  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has added Sur le fil, 8B+ in Switz making it 17 boulders 8B and harder during the last two months. "Again second Ascent of a Fred Nicole Masterpiece. This boulders need to be tried more they are amazing, same quality than in Ticino!!!"

Here Gu comments his extreme progress,...I felt that I have my body under control at a new level...(c) Baboonmaster.com

 
 
8B FA by Stefan Rasmussen (40)  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Rasmussen the man behind almost all hard core bouldering around Västervik has opened Gypsy heart, 8B.

"I took a chance, drove one hour and it turned out to be perfect conditions with four degrees. Many youngsters opt for warmer conditions so I mainly climb alone. I have another 20 hard boulders in the area for this winter season." Video (c) Dominik Hadwiger

 
 
8A by Mirko Caballero (10)  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero has had a great trip to Hueco Tanks where he among other things did his first 8A, Schwerer Gustov. "I love bouldering, but started to rope climb as well in 2011. I train in the Gym, but just to get strong. My passion is climbing outdoors meeting new people and climbing with them.

 
 
8C by Sean McColl before Lead WC  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSean McColl who was second in the last Lead WC has prepared for the Kranj WC this weekend only by bouldering in Switzerland. Yesterday he did Big Paw, 8C in Chironico to his long list the last week.

"This is my hardest boulder to date and the line is majestic! I found the the boulder fit me very well, although the short person beta was very hard. I had great conditions and I'm in the best shape of my life. A very successful Switzerland bouldering trip!

I have a rest day today, then tomorrow I'll try to finish "The Dagger", then maybe one more day of climbing, or maybe two rest days before the WC."

 
 
9a FA by Manu Romain  Facebook
 

Manu Romain reports that he has done the FA of a 9a which is a link-up of a 8c+, 8a and 8b on La Roche de Rame. In the 2011 Lead WC, Manu is #4 and the lasts years he was, #7 and #6. Since 2009, his worst result of 22 WC's was #12"

 
 
8A+ and 8A by Conny Matthes  Facebook
 

Conny Matthes has had a great day in Frankenjura having done Rothauttraverse, 8A+ and Billiardtraverse, 8A.

 
 
Chelsea Rude blogs Journey vs Result  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChelsea Rude who earlier this year was #17 and #11 in a Boulder and Lead WC in USA, has written a nice blog about the mental journey she took to do Ixeia, 8b+ in Rodellar which 8a reported some weeks ago.

"I sat and looked at the scenery, I paid attention to the birds flying in the sky, how the sun somehow always managed to make everything in Spain look orange, all the rock that surrounded me, and I also listened to all of the other people in the area climbing a’muerte. I realized that at that moment I couldn’t be in a better location or position."

 
 
8B+ by Sean McColl in 1.5 hours  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSean McColl, who was #2 in the last Lead WC, has changed arena and prepars for the next Lead WC by 10 days bouldering in Switzerland. "I don't think I'll lose any endurance while here as I'm only here for 2 weeks. I'll maybe gain some power and a nice break from training 4 days a week on platic!" (c) C.Loury/Planetgrimpe

During the first day he has done five classic 7C+ to 8A+ and New Base Line, 8B+. "Took me 1.5 hours on my second day after trying it for 15 minutes on the first day. I found the problem fit my style very well and I've always wanted to try it. I'm so happy that it came together so fast and thanks to Daniel, Paul and Courtney for the encouragement!"

 
 
7C+ by Isabelle Faus (18)  Facebook
 

Isabelle Faus has done Tres de las Quintas, 7C+ in Chattanooga.

 
 
Gu sends again, again and again...  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has done his 14th 8B and harder the last 2 months by doing Phase 2, 8B+ in Sustenpass.

"Physical & mental warring, felt about 6 times at the last move before i stuck it. Really cold day with rain everywhere around us! Quite lucky... Swiss is having so many nice areas outside of Ticino. Many rocks left to be climbed!"

 
 
9a FA by Cedric Lachat  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNina Caprez reports that her boyfriend Cedric Lachat has done an extension to Speed in Voralpsee for which he proposes 9a. (c) Stefan Schlumpf

Speed was put up in 1995 by Beat Kammerlander as an 8c+ "but anywhere else would be graded 9a". It does not end at the top so Cedric continued up the 8b extension of Lucy to the left.

"So often he felt because his foot were slipping or other stupid things. Also it was really hard to memorize all the foot holds in this 30m line. Every hold looks kind of similar and the fact that he tried once per year, he forgot everything! that's Cedric!;-)"

 
 
9a by Felix Knaub (19)  Facebook
 

UKC reports that Felix Knaub has done the ultra classic Action Direct, 9a in Frankenjura which Wolfgang Güllich put up in 1991. Felix did his first 9a when he was 17 year old, Matador also in Frankenjura.

 
 
8B again by Guntram Jörg  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has done his ninth 8B in a month, Bourguignon in Murgtal. "Sec. Ascent, First established by Fred Nicole. Mega compression climb all the way up. One of the best, Fred was also there and told me some beta and i crushed it before it got dark, took me about half an hour but its 4 shure a hard one!" Gu comments his extreme progress lately.

 
 
New 8c, 18 pitches on Madagascar  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUpdate: The news seems to be based on some misunderstanding since they actually just did the pitches up to 7c. The rest they aided. Planetmountain reports that Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur in August have established Dreams of Youth on Tsaranoro Atsimo which is a 700m, 18 pitches including one 8c and three 8b+'s. (c) Kletterzene

Last October, Adam Ondra established Mora Mora 8c 700 m and repeated a 600m 8b and a 380m 8c in the same spectacular area.

 
 
Caldwell twitter from snowy El Cap  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTommy Caldwell twitters from his El Cap 30 pitches project where he already has spent a week with his wife.

"That was a intense one today on pitch 12. First I pulled a few pitons and took big falls. Then I broke a few footholds. Five tries later I finally had the new sequence through the bottom worked out. Then I fell at the very end... Twice. Temps never got above freezing. Eight tries in all and no send. The good news is that I am feeling strong. This one just wasn't in the cards for me today."

 
 
8c+ by Dylan Barks (16)  Facebook
 

Dylan Barks has jumped two grades and done Joe Kinder's Southern smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. In the -95 ranking game he is #7.

 
 
8a+ OS by Ievgeniia Kazbekova (15)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIevgeniia Kazbekova has onsighted Super Priapos 8a+ and Fun de Chichunne 8a at Kalymnos. In 2010, she won the Youth worlds and she did her first 8b+ being 13 years old.

Her mother Nataliya has a silver and bronze in the Boulder World Championship. Her father Serik was #2 in the Boulder WC in 1999 and in the world championship in 2005, he was #4 in bouldering and #7 in Lead. (c) Anna Piunova Gallery

 
 
Speed bouldering by Gu  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg continues his rampage in Switzerland and during three days he did five 8A+ and three 8B in Sustenpass and the amazing thing is that he did each one in less than 15 minutes.

"Probably this days have been the last possible climbing days before the snow is coming. The conditions have been perfect." (c) Martin Keller

 
 
8A+ flash by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet  Facebook
 

Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has had a good week where he first did two 8B's in Font, then he flashed La Pelle, 8A+ in Cresciano and he also was #2 in IMS Cup after Ondra but ahead of Fischhuber.

 
 
9a FA by Gabri Moroni in China  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabri Moroni has done the FA of Coup de Bambou, 9a in Getu Valley and he is #7 in the game. "Great experience trying it with the international homies Enzo,Dave,Mickey,Jon,Gé!! Sent on my last day in China!" China blog and video by Gabri.

This was the fifth 9a for the very active boulder WC climber who got the bronze in the Euro Championship being 17 year old. In 2008 he was #4 and in 2009 he was #3 in the Boulder WC. (c) Beau Kahler

 
 
8c for the 40m Century Crack roof  (16) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOne month ago Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall climbed the 40 meter Century Crack in pink point style meaning the gear was pre placed. It was aided in 2001 and then 9a climber Stevie Haston started to project it calling it Century crack and estimated it to be 9a or harder.

No grade was suggested but after they had done several of the hardest cracks in USA in the weeks that followed they suggested 8c. From Wideboyz.blogspot.com, ""As many people know, Pete and I spent 2 years slogging our guts out in a crack cellar underneath my house.

We trained so specifically for Century Crack – we had an almost exact replica of the whole route and we trained....and trained.... and trained.... We did over 17,000ft of Century Crack climbing in 2 years, which equates to having already climbed it 42 times each!"

 
 
Five 8a's Cathy Wagner (46)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has during the last month done four 8a's and Je hais les gosses, 8a+ in Briançonnais. During the last year the 46 year old has done 17 routes 8a or harder.

 
 
7C+ by Anne Gray (49)  Facebook
 

Anne Gray has done Air tronic, 7C+ at Plex. "Now that put a smile on my face." When she was 42, she did her first 8A out of three and in December she turns 50.

 
 
Caldwell attempting the world hardest? MP  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTommy Caldwell is right now up on El Cap trying to do the Dawn Wall - Mescalito project which he has worked with Kevin Jorgeson since 2007. The project goes up on the blankest sector of El Capitain and includes some 30 pitches out of which seven pitches around 8c .

Kevin injured his ankle two weeks ago so Tommy is up there with his wife. Old videos and her Twitter reports by Tommy. Climbing presenteda 35 page uncut interview last year. (c) "Working through pitch 10 this morning. Hope to send tonight!!"

 
 
8b OS by David Firnenburg (16)  (1) Facebook
 

David Firnenburg has during a couple of days in Osp/Misja Pec onsighted Bitka s stalaktiti 8b, one 8a+ and two 8a's. In the ranking game the 17 year old is #15.

 
 
8c+ by Ruben Firnenburg (14)  Facebook
 

Ruben Firnenburg has done Sympathy for the Devil, 8c+ in Frankenjura which is a, "Nice combination of "Queel dich du Sauu" and "Black is basic", mainly crimps."

 
 
8c FA MP by Dani Andrada  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePetzl reports from their very succesfull Roc trip in Getu China that Dani Andrada has made the first ascent of Corazon de Ensueno, 8c. (c) Sam Biè

Dani who is the who has put up mo´st hard core routes in the world, says, "This is definitely the best climb I have ever created." First he spent 11 days of setting up the eight pitches 7c+ to 8c and then he worked the route for three days.

 
 
7th 8b by Tito Traversa (10)  Facebook
 

Tito Traversa has done his seventh 8b, Sarsifal in Tetto di Sarre. His first 8b (+) he did when he was 9 year old.

 
 
8c+ by Jolly Lamberti (46)  Facebook
 

Planetmountain reports that Jolly Lamberti has done the first repeat of Debolezza e disonore, 8c+ at Grotti which was opened by Fabrizio Peri. Jolly (46) is a training guru from Italy who currently is projecting a 9a+.

 
 
8B+ by Alban Besnier  Facebook
 

Alban Besnier has made a nice personal best doing the first repetition of Julien Nadiras Le Clash, 8B+ in Rioupéroux. Video

 
 
8A+ by Therese Johansen  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTherese Johansen reports on her blog that she has done Pura Vida, 8A+ in Magic Wood in snowy conditions. "Must have been tailor made for me... YES I love to crimp!!!(and hate heel hooking)." It was put up by Bernd Zangerl in 2003 as an 8B and this was the fourth female ascent.

 
 
Michi Wohlleben 17 MP in Morocco  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichael Wohlleben gives us a story from Taghia Valley in Morocco. "After A few easy routes I met Toni Arbones (chief of Camping in Siurana) he told me that he bolted a route together with the big Legend Kurt Albert."

3 hours approach and then the 17 pitches, Antro.po.cene up to 8a, which Toni opened last month and then Michi made the first repeat - Very nice video.

 
 
8b+ by Kristina Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChechclimbing reports that Kristina Ondra has done her first 8b+, Kudlanka at Moravsky Kras. Newsworthy is also that the her father has done his first 8a although he has been climbing for more than 25 years. So if his son also is a late bloomer, Adam will do 9c+ at his age. (c) Pepe Piechowicz

 
 
8b by Lena Herrmann (17)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLena Herrmann has done Riesenslalom Direkt, 8b and SMS, 8a+ in Frankenjura and she is #3 in the junior game.

"Fast ascent. Checked it out maybe 3 times, then I did a try and the next GO was the ascent.I think that's the reason why I did it so fast:
The rock was full of SPIDERS.! and there is nothing which is more disgusting.! So I didn't want to climb between them once more. That made my climb ;-)"

 
 
8C FA again by Dave Graham  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham has made his fifth 8C FA, The Ice Knife at Guanella Pass. For more than 10 years, Dave has been on the cutting edge and when it comes to produce hard core FAs around the globe, he is #1 in the history of bouldering.

"A majestic prow, jutting out of the forest on a northeast facing slope. A very technical compression climb, and extra conditony. Took me eleven days over two seasons, and it was a huge relief to final climb it. Difficult to grade, but one of the more challenging problems I have tried in a very long time, so we will see."

 
 
8b+ by Chelsea Rude  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChelsea Rude has done her first 8b+, Ixeia in Rodellar. ":) First 8b+ & I believe I can do harder :) A MUERTE!" Previously, 8a+ was and 7C+ bouldering were her personal best'.

In 2011, she has participated in one Boulder and one Lead WC, finishing #17 and #11.

 
 
8c by Barbara Raudner  Facebook
 

Barbara Raudner blogs about her ascent of Honig, 8c in Hollental which is a 45m endurance route. This was the 35+ fourth 8c.

 
 
8c by Emily Harrington  Facebook
 

Climbing reports that Emily Harrington has done Joe Kinder's Waka Flocka, 8c in Rifle after some 45 tries. In the world champion 2005, Emily (19) did get the silver.

 
 
9a by Guillaume Lebret  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuillaume Lebret has done the new naturelle verison without sika of Trip Tic Tonic in Gorges du Loup confirming the upgrade to 9a. Everyone has given it three stars also including the Sika. In march he broke a bone in his heal and six months later he does his first 9a. More pics at Guillaume's blog

 
 
8C and 8B+ FA's by Adam Ondra  (6) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has had a great day in Petrohrad where he opened, Cháron 8C, "Great to feel progression, spent three days on it last winter and now went within 30 minutes. Fits my style exactly."

He also made the FA of Underground 8B+, "Huge powerful moves, morphological, could be easier, but felt hard to me." In total Adam has opened four 8B+ and two 8C and he is now just two points behind Daniel Woods in the game.

 
 
8C FA by Daniel Woods again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has made his seventh 8C FA, La force tranquille, 8C in Magic Wood. The 22 year old has been the leader of the game for several years and now Adam Ondra is just two points behind.

"Wow! such a mental and condition war for me. Located on the backside of the darkness cave. Has very subtle movement using small, slopey edges and poor feet out a 45 degree overhang. This one is for you Courtney... thanks for supporting me and walking up to the boulder multiple times. Now I can move forward."

 
 
FA explorerer Nalle Hukkataival  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNalle Hukkataival has recorded 27 boulders 8A and harder he has done this autumn including 13 FA's. The Fin has put up 20 boulders 8B and harder the last seven years around the globe. (c) Keith Ladzinski - FA of Parallel Lines, 8A in Grampians.

Nalle was an active competition climber until 2008 and in 2005 he was #5 in the world champion and in 2007, he got the silver in the European champion.

 
 
8b+ trad by Yuji Hirayama (41)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureYuji Hirayama reports on Facebook, "Back from Italy. I did the Green Spits (I think it's more like 8b+ with placing gears) second go! Short trip but great satisfaction". Yuji is one of the true legends who won the World Cup in 1998 and who has been one of the best onsight and also big wall climbers in the history.

Green Spit is a 12m horizontal roof crack based on hand, fist and finger jams. In 2003, Didier Berthod chopped the bolts and climbed it on pre-placed gear giving it 8b+. Two years later he did it clean.

 
 
8c+ OS by Ramonet  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque has had some great time in Rifle after the Lead WC in Boulder, onsighting four 8b's and The Crew. It was originally 8c but then a hold break making most suggest an upgrade to 8c+. It should be noted that nobody has previously onsighted harder than 8b in Rifle, see more info as a comment.

The 159 cm tall Ramonet with arms hanging down to his knees is #3 in the IFSC world ranking and #2 in the 8a game. He won the world championship in 2007 and in 2011. (c) Toni Roy

The world's first 8c+ onsight was done by Patxi Usobiaga. In 2011, Adam Ondra has done seven 8c+ onsights.

 
 
8B+ FA by Nalle Hukkataival  (25) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNalle Hukkataival blogs about his FA of Circus Elephant Syndrome, 8B+ in Finland. "In my opinion 8B+ is HARD and I intend to keep my line with the 8C grade, which I still view as cutting-edge until something a notch above the current bouldering level gets climbed.

However, the way 8C has been shifting again lately, this grade may not correspond too well. Either way, Circus Elephant Syndrome is likely the hardest boulder problem in Finland and a world-class shoulder strength testpiece! I'm very psyched that I finally got it done!!!

 
 
9a by Magnus Midtbö  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbö has repeated Nordic Flower, 9a, in Flatanger. The route was established just over a month ago by Jorg Verhoeven.

"I’m not sure about the 9a grade, but on such a beautiful route I don’t thing the grade even matters. Without doubt the most beautiful route I have ever done!" More pictures at MagnusMidtboe.com, as well as comments on the FA on Verhoeven's blog.

 
 
8A+ FA by Rudi Moroder (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Rudi Moroder has done the First Ascent of Cold Front, 8A+ in Pontives. "Super boulder, really technical; definitely my hardest to date." In the combined junior game he is #3. Full story at Rudimoroder.it

 
 
8B's again by Guntram Jörg  Facebook
 

Guntram Jörg is on the run having done another two 8B's, Vecchia Leone and General Disarray in Brione. In the last month he has done five 8B's and a 8B+ (C) and he has jumped to #9 in the game.

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