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St Leger & Baume Rousse 

Climbing in St.Leger and Baume Rousse from Alfred Jodokus on Vimeo.


Francisco 'Novato' Marín - chapter 1 


Mirko Caballero (13) does Meadow Lark Lemon 8B+ 


2014 USA Sport Climbing Nationals 


Fanatic bouldering in Albarracín - 'Reunión de Pastores' 


Best Europe Climbing Destination? 


Looking for promoting newly developed crags 

Click to Enlarge PictureWe would like to promote newly developed crags around the globe so please send info and a picture to and we will spread the info around. Of course we hope you to register the routes in the data base and later sort the routes in the Left-to-Right topo App. If you have not done all the routes, you can anyhow add them by clicking "data base" in your scorecard. The picture shows Lilla Lĺngevik in Bohuslän, Sweden where some 60 mainly 4c to 6c have been bolted in four sectors and more to come. Facebook

8c+ by Loic Timmermans (19) 

Click to Enlarge PictureLoic Timmermans had a great 19th birthday by doing Fabelita 8c in Santa Linya and then four days later he did his second 8c+, Fabela. Now he is working the 9a extension. "It's going very well so hopefully I will have the time before the end of the week!

In 2012, Loic was the European Youth Champion. "This year I will do ALL the world cups. Unfortunately I won't go to the WCH in Gijon as I want to participate at the World Youth CH. in Noumea. With the new dates, it's impossible to do both. Facebook

EpicTV presents Magic Wood 


Fontainebleau Bouldering - One Week 

Fontainebleau - One Week from Eliot Stephens on Vimeo.


Petzl Roctrip 2014 

Click to Enlarge Picture Facebook

Geyik Bayiri Festival 


Kalymnos updates - TNF Festival 9-12 october 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe spring 2014 has been the busiest ever and as an example the biggest climbing hotel, Philoxenia has been fully booked for a couple of weeks. Wild Sports have started their second shop and the new rescue service founded by Alternet, with the equipment donated by Wild Sports, is up and running.

The picture from Aris Theodoropoulos shows the rescue team in action saving a couple rapelling of the wrong anchor with the rope not reaching the ground. In order to support the rescue you can by a Kalymnos card which also gives you discounts on several shops, restaurants and hotels.

Climb Kalymnos reports that it is now safe again to climb in Arginonta. In November 2013, "a severe thunderstorm caused a big flake to come loose and hang precariously from a single bolt (!) 30m above the ground."

Since last season, several hundreds routes have been bolted or rebolted and 200 blue recycling bins for paper, plastic, glass and metal have been placed out.

The official dates for The North Face Festival is 9 - 12 october so be quick to book up the flight tickets :) Facebook

Muir Valley - a gift to the climbing community but 200 000 USD needed 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuir Valley in Red River Gorge is with 41 000 climbers last year, the busiest privately owned climbing venue in North America. Rick and Liz Weber, founders, owners and managers of the Muir Valley Climbing Preserve have just announced a plan to make a permanent gift of Muir Valley to the climbing community.

In order to secure operating/maintenance expenses, to fund expenses associated with the transfer of ownership, and to establish a stewardship fund for the property that will be there for future projects/expenses, $200,000 is needed to pay for Muir's 2014 and 2015. Donate money here. Facebook

TNF Philippines Expedition - El Nido 

More info here and amzing pics from Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson's exploring expedition of El Nido in the Phillippines.

Alexander Megos in Ticino 


Tghe Secrets of so iLL 

The Secrets of So iLL from Float Faction on Vimeo.


How do you like slash grades, i.e. 7C+/8A? 


Save getu from destruction  (4)

Click to Enlarge PictureSave Getu reports some chocking news that the the famous beautiful Getu in China is about to get destroyed in order to create a big tourist attraction. Four local guys protesting have been sent to jail for ten days. A Chinese petitition page.

"To construct the expanded parking lots and gates, so throngs of visitors can conveniently drive into the peaceful valley, developers and officials forcibly appropriated hundreds of acres of farm and forest land from the locals, many of the ethnic Miao descent. Local people’s protests were suppressed by police deployed by the local officials. Four most vocal leaders were jailed for 10 days.

Now the damages to the lower portions of the caves done, developers have moved for the “holiest of the holiest,” the Chuanshang, or Through Upper Cave, under the Great Arch! Workers are already clearing the delicate vegetation to make site for a hotel and restaurant! Facebook

Pros and cons with grades 

Here is a list with the most important aspects of grades, i.e. why we need them also saying grades are more important for the route climbers compared to boulderers.

1. Selecting which routes to warm up on
2. Selecting which routes to onsight
3. Selecting which routes to redpoint
4. Measuring progress

5. Measuring daily shape
6. Play with friends
7. Comparing the best in the world
8. Selecting climber of the year etc

The bad thing with grades is of course if you start choosing climbs based on the softness and not based on the quality. Another negative aspect could be when you get disappointed just because you could not do your normal grade, when it, in reality maybe was your anti-style.

One could say that if you like slash grades you think in general that grades are more important. In many gyms, grading boulders are done with colors instead of grades and some boulderers have actually said that we could skip the +'s outdoors as boulders are just so personal. What do you think? Facebook

Escape to Yorkshire 

Escape to Yorkshire from TheBigOnes productions on Vimeo.


Decline for the hardest E-grades in UK 

Click to Enlarge PicturePreviously, several E10 and harder have been reported on the UK trad scene but during the last few years almost none have been done beside Psykovsky's Sequins which later was down graded to E8. The most famous is possibly Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody E11 from 2006, see the picture and video trailer from Hot Aches.

The logical explanation for this is that most of the finest hard and dangerous lines have been done and it is not equally interesting to repeat a dangerous route as to make the FA. Another possible explanation could be that crash pads and better belay strategies have down graded potential E10's as they have reduced the death and injury potential. Further more, dangerous routes might not be so interesting for the new younger gym generation as the boulder and sport climbing possibilities are much greater compared to ten years ago.

It should be noted that the trad scene when it comes to more moderate E-grades are very much alive in and that the trad climbing in UK is probably the best in the world not counting crack climbing. The E-grades has a great tradition and work fine for anybody who wants to select which route to onsight as the scale are based both on the pure difficulty and how dangerous they are. Facebook

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk climbs Unfamiliar (E7 6c) in the Peak District 


Poudre Canyon moderates 

Poudre Canyon Classic Moderates from Erik Page on Vimeo.


8B+ (C) by Ethan Walker  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Walker has had two good weeks making two personal best by first doing Keen Roof 8B and later Belly of the Beast giving it a personal grade of 8B+.

"Never fought as hard on anything before I don't think! All out on the final moves. Had turned into a slight mental battle but today with warmer temps, everything clicked liked it should. Feeling in the best shape of my whole life right now, super psyched for whatevers next!
Pizza time! Facebook

Lucy Humphreys' Hueco Nightmares 

Lucy Humphreys' Hueco Nightmares from HEIGHT FILMS on Vimeo.


The UK E-grading scene takes ethics to a new level 

Click to Enlarge PictureDMM has the great story of Ben Bransby 2nd ascent of Pete Whittaker’s impressive Baron Greenback at Wimberry Rocks, check the video. In order to protect the start Ben carried up a nine-foot wooden fencing post, see the picture.

Higher up on the route he used a half a meter bamboo cane to stick clip the 50+ year old 6 mm and 1 cm long rusty bolt as the FA did. Once it was stick clipped Ben reversed to the ground before he started his attempt, the first half on two top ropes.

This weekend, the FA Pete Whittaker, did a new direct FA where he first equalized bolts 2 and 3 together with a sling that had a loop for the quick draw. Pete also used several crash pads to protect the start.

Regarding the grade, Ben has said, “I think the grade would probably be E9 6c but it is pretty dependent on whether 50+ year-old aid bolts stay in! If they are bomber it would be more like E8 and if they ripped it would be E10, so E9 seems like a good compromise. Hard F8a+ is probably accurate for the climbing.”

The UK E-grades are partly based on how dangerous a route is so if it turns out nobody is injured on the route, it will get E8 but in the worst case (and also in the future if the bolts are not replaced) it will become an E10. It should also be noted that the E-grades measures how hard and dangerous a route is to onsight so in practice the E-grade of Baron Greenback is just fun fiction. Facebook

One day in Albarracin 


Add Crags and Sectors to the data base  (4)

There are now 5 000 crags in the 8a database. All these crags and mentioned sectors have at least 50 ascents. Now the webmaster has made it possible for 8a members to manually add crags and sectors in order to promote also smaller and new climbing spots. You find the link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

Once you have done this, you can sort the climbs from Left-to-Right in order to create a Topo that is both visible in the 8A Topo and in the 8a database. We hope the App, available both for iPhones and Androids, will become the future topo bible. Facebook

Viva Peńoles Episode 2 is out 


How to increase the life span of your rope 

Click to Enlarge PictureHere are some advices how to increase the life span on your rope that will save you some money. Based on the quality and how your treat it, it can last for 200 climbing days but some actually need to cut it after just one hour.

1. Switch ends and even ropes when taking multiple falls in the beginning of a route. A roped that is stretched out needs to rest.

2. Make the falls soft if possible by paying out slack or jumping up.

3. Use long quickdraws in order to avoid the rope touching the rock.

4. Fat, rounded and new quick draws reduced the friction on the rope. The best are the turning DMM Revolver.

5. Wash the rope when it gets dirty
6. Cut the ends of the rope
7. A thicker rope normally last longer
8. Always use a rope bag - An IKEA bag costs 1 Euro Facebook

Bügeleisen 8B+ (C) video by Rok Klancnik 

Bügeleisen from GRTA Studio | Rok Klančnik on Vimeo.


Alex Puccio Interview on Bouldering, Comps...and Insects! 


Uncertainties for Youth Worlds and Germany withdraw 

IFSC has three times changed the dates for the Youth World Championship in New Caledonia and the current dates are Sepember 20 - 24. During the Plenary Assembly March 1, it was also decided that the Europeans should try travel together in order to save money.

An Internet link where National Federations can find all the information to book travels for their competitors, team officials and accompanying people will be available soon."

So far, no info is available and some Euro national federations have started to complain and in fact, the german federation has said that they will not go to the Youth World Championship. Facebook

Paige Claassen (8b) First Ascent (Ecuador) 


David Mason in Hueco Tanks 

Hueco Tanks: Dave Mason Facebook

8A+ in Font by Isabelle Faus 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done Partage 8A+ in Fontainebleau considered by many as one of the very best aretes in the world. Very few female has previously done 8A+ in the famous forest. Isabelle, who did her first 8A when she was 16, is #3 in the world ranking game.

"I did one session to figure out the beta, and got up pretty high, but couldn't figure out the top… Then I watched some videos of short people climbing it, went back, and did it the first try of my second day trying it. Facebook

Less impressive male top grades today compared to ten years ago 

Click to Enlarge PictureComparing the hardest reported male grades the last year with the hardest reported 8a news ten years ago, it has actually been a decline.

In 2003, we reported the first 9b+, Chilam Balam and several 8C+ boulders; Koyamada (2), Calibani and Nicole. All these great ascents have been down graded. In this period, also several 9a+ and 8C were reported which when it comes to boulders, almost all have been down graded.

When it comes to juniors, still the 2004 ascents are more impressive than the todays standard. Daniel Woods (15) did the FA of Echale 8B+ and Adam Ondra (11) onsighted eleven 8a+ and here is Adam's first interview. Facebook

Moai 8B in Albarracin 


Chris Schulte Develops Indian Creek Bouldering 

Over the past few months Chris Schulte has been developing new proud boulders in an area previously known only as a crack climbing destination. In this new video he shows some of his new lines and tells about this special area. More info here.

Penoles Mexico - 1 



Chemnitztal - Mali Ivo 7B & Flügelspanne 7A+ from OAP - Outdoor Adventurer Prod. on Vimeo.



Bahratal - Wild East 7A+ & Weberknecht 7A & Gendarmerie 7B+ from OAP - Outdoor Adventurer Prod. on Vimeo.


Petrohrad Bouldering 

Petrohrad - Sektor Pod Hradem from OAP - Outdoor Adventurer Prod. on Vimeo.


Iron Maiden - Female bouldering Comp 


Which discipline do you like the most? 


USA Nationals 


Guadalcázar: Tierra de Escalada 


Favorite climbing clothes brand? 

Based on close to 1 000 votes, (Favorite climbing clothes brand?), we can see so pretty dramatic changes compared to 2009.

29 % Prana (42 % 2009)
22 % E9 (14 %)
10 % La Sportiva -
07 % Moon (9 %)
07 % Mammut (7 %)
05 % Chillaz (3 %)
04 % Verve (6 %)
16 % Other (Nihil, The North Face and Adidas most mentioned) Facebook

Jacopo Larcher does Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ trad 


9a by Gorka Karapeto  (1)

Gorka Karapetro has done his third 9a, Begi Puntuan in Etxauri which was put up by Patxi Usobiaga in 2006. Facebook

8b+ by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (48)  (11)

Some two weeks ago we reported that Brooke Raboutou (10) had done God's Own Stone in Red River Gorge on her fifth go. Her mother Robyn (48), four times World Cup overall winner, needed some more time. Climbing is unique as you can be a world class climber for at least 40 years. Facebook

8A by Sylwia Buczek  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureSylwia Buczek has done her second 8A, Souvenir in Chironico. The 20-year-old Polish girl has had a nice progress the last three years. Facebook

9a by Daniel Fuertes 

Daniel Fuertes has done his third 9a, Era Bella in Margalef which was put up by Chris Sharma. "One of the most beautiful routes I have ever climbed! Thanks everybody! Vamos! The Spaniard is #4 in the world ranking game. Facebook

8c+ by Dylan Barks (17) 

Dylan Barks who was #2 in the US nationals last months has done his second 8c+, Lucifer in Red River Gorge. "Awesome route! Felt solid even though I was stung by a wasp mid route. 10 or so try. Glad to be done with it. Golden ticket maybe?" Last week he also did his second 8A. Facebook

8c+ by Johanna Ernst 

Click to Enlarge PictureHeiko Wilhelm reports that Johanna Ernst, the lead World Cup winner of 2008 and 2009 and World Champion of 2009, has done Open your mind, 8c+ anf Fabelita, 8c in Santa Linya. The Austrians have been on a training camp around Lleida. Facebook

Another onsight strike by Ondra  (1)

Over the course of 4 days, Adam Ondra has onsighted one 8b+, two 8cs and one 8c+ (Bella Regis) in Trento. "Unsure about the grade, but could be somewhere in that region, except two moves, it wasn't fully on my limit." During the last year, Adam has onsighted seven 8cs and three 8c+s. Facebook

8b+ by Aleksandra Taistra  (2)

Aleksandra Taistra has done her 9th 8b+, Brujeria in La Muela. At the same crag she also did Mar de dudas, 8a+. Check her 8a Gallery for nice pictures or at her blog. Facebook

Two 8b OS by Piotr Schab (15) 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has onsigthed his first 8b, Ramadan in Siurana. "Not so easy for on sight, beautiful line. So happy :)" The 15 year old has previously onsighted seven 8a+ and he is #4 in the junior ranking game. (c) Elias Holzknecht

Today Piotr onsighted Cubata+chupito 3 euros, 8b! Facebook

8c by Katharina Posch (17) 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatharina Posch jumps 8b+ and does her first 8c, Digital system in Santa Linya. "Nice route! The first part was really hard, the part after the jugs nice and not that hard. Really happy now!! ;)" Last year, the 17 year old, was #5 in the Lead World Cup after having made the podium three times. Facebook

8A by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk 

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done her eigth 8A Preparation H, in Hepburn. "Like being in FONT." Next week she is competing in the first boulder WC in China. Minas blog Facebook

8A (+) by Alex Johnson 

Alex Johnson has done Book of Nightmares, 8A (+) in Red Rocks. "Five days of effort. A wonderful birthday send!" During the last two months she has done four 8A and harder and in total 16. Facebook

8c by Barbara Raudner 39 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Raudner has done Fish Eye, 8c in Oliana. "50m really amazing climbing, the route was opened by Chris Sharma. The 39 year old did her first 8a+ being 31 and has continued her progress since showing that age is not an obstacle in climbing. More info and pics at her blog (c) Hannes Raudner-Hiebler Facebook

Second 8C for Nacho Sánchez 

Click to Enlarge PictureYesterday, Nacho Sánchez was finally able to climb his 1,5 years old project in Crevillente, Insomnio, for which he's proposed 8C. He tells us: "It's a conglomerated rock roof with 6 very hard first moves on undercut crimpers and pinches and another 4 'easy' final movements. The 5th move is the hardest by far, but for several months I had been falling on the 6th move, a dyno a bit aleatory. The last part of the problem I did some years ago. A year and a half ago I started trying it from the bottom and in the last few months I've been besieging it."

Nacho had previously already done another 8C boulder problem, 'Entropía', in Castillo de Bayuela (news and video here). Pic: Mallorca outside. Facebook

Paul Robinson Interview 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn this interview, Paul Robinson talks about his latest film Welcome to the Hood, training, grades, ethics and 9A etc.

I just started training the other day actually! It has been 2 years since I have really climbed inside. I really want to be in the best shape of my life for my trip to africa this summer so I plan to train really hard for the next 2 months! I am looking forward to training! I have gained a lot of finger strength and technique over the past few years of climbing outside and now I hope to add some more power with climbing inside to get to the next level in my ability! Facebook

9a again by Enzo Oddo (17) 

Enzo Oddo has done Pure Imagination, 9a in Red River Gorge. The 17 year old did his first 9a when he was 14 and totally he has done a dozen plus two 9a+. Facebook

Three 8a+ OS by Matilda Söderlund  (2)

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund onsighted today two 8a+ in Margalef, Sarganta Killer and El Fustigador. Yesterday she onsighted Gigololo, 8a+ in Siurana. (c) Peter Renlund

Two days ago we reported about her 8b flash of Ramadan. "The flash was just by chans. I belayed a friend but he could not pass the crux 1/3 up. So I thought to just give it a go and try it but it turned out to be a bit more than that =)" Facebook

9a by Daniel Jung 

Daniel Jung has done Estato Critico, 9a in Siurana. "The first long route since a long time. funny, pumpy and really good climbing on the last meters :-)"The German has done five 9a's out of which, three the last six months. More in his blog. Facebook

Seven 8A's by Michael O'Rourke (17) in a week  (1)

Michael O'Rourke has had a great week sending seven 8A's in Joe's Valley. In the junior ranking game the 17 year old is #4. Facebook

8b flash and 8a OS by Matilda Söderlund (19)  (3)

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund has during her first day in Siurana, flashed Ramadan 8b and onsigthed an 8a. To make it even more impressive, the last two months she has almost not trained any climbing because of a back muscle rupture. Last year she was #2 in the last Euro Youth Cup and this year, she will do some World Cups. Facebook

First 8c for Monique Forestier (39) 

Monique Forestier blogs about her struggle to finally have done the 50 m Fish Eye, 8c in Oliana after 20 days of effort. Monique started to climb when she was 25 and now she is peaking at 39, impressive! Facebook

First 9a by Micha Vanhoudt  (2)

Micha Vanhoudt has done his first 9a, Erfolg ist trainierbar reclimbed in Adlitzgraben. "Training pays off" Last year he did the second ascent of Blut und Honig giving it a personal grade of 8c+ so maybe this was actually his second 9a :) Facebook

8A+ and 8A by Alex Puccio 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done Peckitt's Problem , 8A in Crag X and Dark Reservation, 8A+ in Anstone Stones. " Long. 20 moves or so. 8A into a 7B+ I think. Felt like I would have done it the first day or for sure the second, but fell off the end on the V2ish part do to being wet. Finally went back with good weather. :)"

Alex has done 12 boulders and harder the last year and in total she has done 37 and she leads the 8a ranking game. In 2011, she was #3 in the World Cup and this year she is doing the whole circuit starting in China in three weeks. Facebook

8A by the Firnenburg brothers, (14 & 16)  (1)

David Firnenburg (16) and his younger botherRuben (14) have done Don't feed Pumba, 8A in Pferdestall. David has previously done 9a meanwhile Ruben has done 8c+. Facebook

Action Directe, 9a by Rustam Gelmanov  (4)

Click to Enlarge PictureRustam Gelmanov has done Action Direct in Frankenjura which might be the first 9a in the world set up by Wolfgang Gullich more than 20 years ago. Last year, The Russian was #3 in the Boulder World Championship and three years ago he was #2. © Anna Piunova/ Facebook

Another two 8A's by Conny Matthes 

Conny Matthes has added another two 8A's, The scent of snow and Walker on earth in Chironico, to her impressive Tick List making it seven 8A and harder the last year. Last october, the german did her first 8c route. Facebook

8b+ trad FA by Hayden Kennedy 

Climbing reports that Hayden Kennedy has done the FA of Kansas City Special rating it 5.14- (8b+) in Indian creek. The hardest graded trad route in the world has been put up by Beth Rodden at 8c+. Facebook

9a FA by Adam Ondra  (2)

Lezec reports that Adam Ondra has set up a 9a on Czech sand stone in Elbe area. Adam actually bolted the route ground-up. Here is a video from how the route was set up. Facebook

8c+/9a FA by Daniel Woods 

Daniel Woods, who has been one of the most succesfull boulders for several years, reports that he has established Mourning Glory, 8c+/9a in Clear Creek Canyon.

"Recently, I have been switching things up and sport climbing. I have bouldered for so many years, and just needed something different." 8a interview from last month Facebook

8A+ by Pol Roca Lopez  (1)

Pol Roca Lopez has done his first 8A+, Psoas Hole in Targassonne. The 16 year old has previously done three 8A's and he is #29 in the junior boulder game. Facebook

8A by Jill Church 

Jill Church has done her second 8A, Fight Club in Bishop. "Serious mantle to a very scary top-out. Two days of work, but day one was too hot to do more than one move. THANK YOU EMA for the spot!" Facebook

9a (8c+) by Mario Lechner  (3)

Click to Enlarge PictureMario Lechner has done his first 9a, Underground in Arco. "Yesss!! so nice!!! 4 tries this year and one 2 years ago. f****** slippy! Mental war after falling 2 times with the top jug in my hand... 8c+/9a"

Last year, Mario was #10 in the World Cup and Top-10 is also his goal this year beside making it to the finals in the world championship. In 2010 and 2008 he won the Euro Youth cup. In two weeks, he is going two Spain with the Austrian Lead team. (c) Katharina Posch Facebook

Monika Kuhn-Gaberová (19) 

Monika Kuhn-Gaberová has done her second 8A, Albedo in Ostas. "It is like a paradise." Facebook

First 9a by James Pearson 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Pearson who has been focusing on trad climbing for several years has on his 7th redpoint done his first 9a, Escalatamasters in Perles. More info at James blog (c) Foto Vertical - Fransisco Taranto Jr

"Perhaps the most visually beautiful route I have ever seen! A steep imposing prow of blue and gold, tracked by wiggling collonets transforms at half height to its polar opposite; a slightly overhanging smooth blue face, criss-crossed by tiny crimps and pinches." Facebook

8c by Hannah Midtbř again 

Click to Enlarge PictureHannah Midtbř has done Ingravids Eskerps which is her third 8c in Santa Linya this winter. "Really enjoyed this one! Aggressive style and fun athletic moves. Easier then Fabelita and Rollito Extension."

In 2008, the norweigian was #3 in the Euro Boulder Championship. Lat year, her brother Magnus was #4 in the world championship. (c) Henning Wang Facebook

8b onsight by Alizée Dufraisse  (1)

Alizée Dufraisse has onsighted Ramadan, 8b in Siurana. In the ranking game, Alizée is #2 after Sasha Digulian. Facebook

Giuliano Cameroni (14) checks in with 17 8A's 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiuliano Cameroni has done his 17th 8A and harder, Miss Schweiz in Chironico. The 14 year old did his first 8A when he was 10 and his first 8A+ when he was 13! Facebook

8c by Maria Davies Sandbu (20)  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureMaria Davies Sandbu has done her first 8c, actually jumping 8b+, by doing Fish Eye in Oliana. "Yey, my first 8c! 50 metres of truly amazing climbing!" In the combined ranking game, the Norwegian is #2 after Sasha Digiulian. (c) Henning Wang Facebook

8A again by Flannery Shay-Nemirow (19) 

Flannery Shay-Nemirow has done Diaphanous Sea, 8A in Hueco Tanks which was her sixth of the grade. The 19 year old is #4 in the ranking game. Facebook

8b+ onsight by Ben Spannuth 

Ben Spannuth has onsighted his first 8b+, El Gran Blau in Oliana. "Inspiring day with people from all over the world." Some six months ago, Ben's personal best was 8b+ and now he is #4 in the world ranking game. Facebook

Mind Control, 8c+ also by Sasha Digiulian (19)  (19)

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian is the fourth female, after; Ojeda, Caprez and Ciavaldini, to have done Mind Control, 8c+ in Oliana during the last two months.

"Venga chicas! It is amazing to me to see female climbers pushing their own limits and I am 100% psyched for everyone! A beautiful, long line. Pure resistance. 4 tries in total."

The 19 year old who was the combined World Champion last year also onsighted has also onsighted Mon Dieu, 8a+ and she is #3 in the ranking game. Facebook

8c by Muriel Sarkany (37) again  (2)

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany has done her fifth 8c during the last seven months, Ingravids Eskerps in Santa Linya. "20 m 8c, quite bouldery ;-)"

Previously, the 37 year old and second best female competition climber in the history had done just one 8c, in 2008.

Between 1997 and 2004 she won five World Cups overall and the remaining three years she was #2. In 2003, she won the world championship. More at (c) Henning Wang Facebook

8B FA by Stefan Rasmussen (40) again  (3)

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Rasmussen, the man behind Västervik, drove 110 km to Knutby where he put up his video camera and did the FA of FuRB, 8B. The 40 year old and father of four kids, has previously put up five 8B's out of which two this winter season. Facebook

8B+ FA by Alberto Rocasolano 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlberto Rocasolano has put up his second 8B+, Charlotte in La Pedriza. During the same day he also did the FA of Far Away, 8A+. The 20 year old has previously made four 8A+ and harde FA in Torrelodones. In the ranking game, he is #8. Facebook

8c+ in Oliana also by Caroline Ciavaldini  (17)

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Pearson reports that his girlfriend Caroline Ciavaldini has, on her third redpoint attempt, done her first 8c+, Mind Control in Oliana.

"Having climbed the route a few days before, I had a pretty good idea of the difficulties involved, and decided to devote my rest day to being the perfect little Gri-Gri girl (boy) to give her the best chance of success.

My brand new 9.1mm Beal Joker was pulled out to help with the rope drag. We also worked out a nice method of climbing the first section with 2 ropes, clipping the first 5 or 6 QD’s on one line then dropping it at the rest to allow the other line to run freely through the remainder of the route. This is also the first time I have used a 100m rope!
"(c) Francisco Taranto Facebook

8c+ by Alizée Dufraisse 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlizée Dufraisse has done Dani Andrada's El Rastro, 8c+ in Siurana, which to 3/4 shares the same moves as La Rambla, 9a+.

She will stay in the area for another six weeks and next on her Tick List is Broadway, 8c+ and Era Bella, 9a. Six weeks ago she did Reina Mora, 9a (8c+). In 2010 she was #3 in the European Championship. More info and pictures at her blog(c) Francisco Taranto

Here is an interview from 2009 which also talks about her 4.35 as a personal record and french championship in pole vault. Facebook

8B flash by Sean McColl 

Sean McColl blogs from Hueco Rock Rodeo where he flashed Nagual, 8B and Subzero, 8A. Facebook

8a+ for Cathy Wagner (46) 

Cathy Wagner has done yet another 8a+, Jungle Speed L1 in St Leger. In total the 46 year old ahs done 84 routes 8a+ and harder out of which five the last year. Facebook

8B+ FA again by Dave Graham 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham has put up yet another 8B+ in Hueco Tanks, Neon Desert. "Super nice rig climbing out a comp wall, bomber crimps, athletic climbing, and resistant. Felt a solid step the 8b's I have done here, and took around 6 days to suss out. Maybe there is some beta I didn't find, but the method I used is challenging, and majestic!"

In total Dave has recorded 943 ascents out of which 21 are 8B+ and harder FA and he is #3 in the ranking game. the living legend has for the last ten years, most of the time, been Top-3 in the game. Facebook

8b+ by Sasha Digiulian 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian is back in Spain where she has done Kalea Borraka, 8b+ in Siurana. Last year, the 19 year old did one 9a and three 8c+' and she is #3 in the ranking game. In 2011, she was the combined world champion after having been #2 in Boulder and #8 in Lead.

" I am not sure which World Cups I will do but certainly Chamonix, Briancon, and the World Championships in Paris! I am currently more excited to be climbing outside for the majority of the summer, probably throughout europe!" Facebook


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