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Improved maps  (4)

Click to Enlarge PictureThe webmaster has improved the crag maps so it works quicker and more smoothly. Over 2 500 crags have been marked on our maps which you also will find in the 8a Topo App. Go to a crag and click on the map for detailed description or try by continent: Europe, North America, South America and Asia. Facebook

What do you enjoy the most with climbing? 


David Lama FA of Cerro Torre 1:5 


Niccolo Ceria in Bishop 

GIANTS Bishop (CA) from niky_ceria on Vimeo.


Babsi Zangerl sends 3 * 8c's in Oliana 


Ghisolfi does Alien Carnage 8c+ 


Becerra and McColl in Hueco Tanks 


Moroni does Santoku 8B 

Santoku - Ticino Bouldering from Marina Cotting on Vimeo.



Yosemite HD II from Project Yosemite on Vimeo.


Bouldering in Mogan (Gran Canaria/Canary Islands) 


Time Comparison - A reference to No or Personal grades  (6)

Click to Enlarge PictureGrades are important for selecting your challenges and to measure real progress. At the same time, many climbers want to stay away from personal gradings as it sometimes create polemics.

Time Comparison Grading (TCG) can be used as a grade reference for both the guys who want to share or stay away from personal grades. If the prerequisites are the same when it comes to; Beta, Style, Condition and Form, one could speculate that there are one grade step in between; Onsight, Flash, 1, 4 or 30 sessions invested, see the TCG diagram.

There are of course many exceptions and some climbers have a more steep or flat performance curve, also depending on type of rock. Once you have done a personal best you should be able to enjoy personal best' in all other Time/Effort categories.

TCG is the base 8a have used when we have speculated on both down - and upgradings over the years and it might be the best way to explain how gradings work in practice. Please feel free to share your opinion. Facebook

Good recovery for the pulley rupture of Schubert 

Click to Enlarge PictureThree weeks ago, Jakob Schubert ripped a pulley when he was flashing Nagual 8B in Hueco Tanks. His plan plan is to start climbing easy again next week and he hopes to be back 100 % after another two weeks.

"The goal is now to make the other pulleys stronger so they take the function of the ripped one, which will probably stay ripped forever. After a while the other pulleys should be strong enough and it doesn't matter that there is one pulley less. That's how they treat a pulley rupture nowadays."

Prior to the 8B flash, the #2 in both the Lead and Boulder WC last year, had over just 2.5 days of bouldering done six 8A+ and flashed three 8A's, including several personal grades. Jakob plans to do all Lead WC's and some Boulder WC's in 2014. Facebook

ABS 15 National Championships • Women 


ABS 15 National Championships • Men  (2)


Bouldering in La Pedriza vol.3 


World Champion updates 

IFSChas had their 9th Plenary Assembly and informs that the World Championships 2016 and 2018 will take place in Paris and Innsbruck. This means that the event for the fourth and fifth time in a row will be held in Europe.

IFSC has also rechanged the dates for the Youth World Championship to September 20-24 in New Caledonia. This will be the third in a row outside Europe and it means that most competitors will have to take at least 1.5 week leave from school. Facebook

The highest rated 6A+ to 7A are also found in USA 

Here is a list of all the boulders with 30 ascents and more between 6A+ and 7A that have the highest star quality average. Almost all are found in USA which Bishop as the most frequented area and only one boulder is found in Fontainebleu. Check the comment for the full list down to 2.1 stars.

7 Bishop
3 Hueco Tanks, Yosemite,
2 Chironico, Cresciano, Joe's Valley

2.5 Trick or Treat 7A HP 40
2.4 JBMFP 6C Joshua Tree, Sign of the Cross 6A+ Hueco Tanks, Drone Militia 7A Bishop,

2.2 Suspended in Silence 6C Bishop, Viper 6C+ Bishop, Cocaine corner 6C Yosemite, Pinch Overhang 6C Horsetooth, Das Auge des Waldes 6B+ Zillertal, Fight or Flight 6B Hueco Tanks Facebook

Esperanza V14 by Chris Webb Parsons 

Chris Webb Parsons Climbing, Esperanza V14 from chris webb parsons on Vimeo.


Albarracin - February 

Albarracín febrero 2014 from Carlos Castrillo on Vimeo.


The Prerequisites for the first 9A?  (1)

Francis Sanzaro, who has published A Philosophy for Bouldering (Stone Country Press, 2013), shares his thoughts on what kind of boulders will be the first graded 9A. What do you think?

"Are the hardest boulders the ones not with a specific style, but with many styles "within" a problem? I wager that those who are able to climb at the limit of their style and also work on their practice until they can climb at the limit in their non-style, will send the first 9A.

It is this type of problem that will see fewer repeats than the problem which gets worked on for years by someone, since being able to have no style is more difficult than working your style to the limit. Facebook

"Topping out" by down climbing hang  (11)

Click to Enlarge PictureSidney Trinidad won the USA bouldering nationals youth B in a superior style. Her she is "topping out" one spectacular problem that finished with several down climbing moves. The guys did it by hanging in their toes... click on the picture to see how amazed the route setter was. (c) @justfab Video

Mirko Caballero, who also won, explains the problem, "Well the start hold was at the same height than the finish to the left. You had to climb up (you can see some of the holds to the right of Sidney. Then came the sequence where you had to jump down onto the big volume. The jump was committing as you had to let go both hands to land onto the downward slope." Complete results Facebook

Dave Graham - Adventures in Oz 


Follow ascents by your "friends" and in Crags 

Log-in and find your "friends" scorecard and click: "Add to My Friends - Stay updated on all ascents from this Scorecard/Log-book"

In the same way you can go to a specific crag and click: " Add to My Updates >= All" You can also choose more specific if you want only ascents 8a and more etc. Facebook

Four ways to add ascents 

The quickest way to add popular ascents is to start writing the crag or sector name in the "Search & Add Ascent" box up to the right. You will come to the Tick List of the Crag/Sector and then it is just to find your climb and click Add.

The most popular way to add ascents is to click "Add" in the member section to the right. Then you can write the name and crag yourself and add many details directly.

We also have the "Add Via Mobile" possibility where you can easily add ascents fast via your mobile.

You can also add ascents via our 8a App. Facebook

Saurwein and Verhoeven in Hueco Tanks 

Hueco Tanks 2014 from Jorg Verhoeven & Katha Saurwein on Vimeo.


Three 8c's by Barbara Zangerl in Oliana 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Zangerl reports on facebook has done the three classic 8c's; Fish Eye, T1 Full equip and Mind Control that might be 8c+. (c) Jacopo Larcher (Who onsighted two 8b+; China Crisis and Gorilas en la Niebla).

"I think T1 Full Equip is easier....8b+ (for sure not harder). I really enjoy the time here in Oliana. It's my first visit. I will go back home to Austria on Tuesday and my next plan is trying Prinzip Hoffnung (8b+ trad) again. Its just next to my flat."

Some years ago, Barbara was one of the best female boulderers in the world but after a back injury she has been focusing on sport and multi pitches also being one of the best in the world. Last year, she finished the alpine trilogy by doing the first female ascent of the MP Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+. Facebook

A Climbers Rodeo 

A CLIMBERS RODEO // HUECO TANKS from Cold House Media on Vimeo.


Grand opening of LA Boulders 

Grand Opening of LA Boulders from Touchstone Climbing on Vimeo.


Lleida and Frankenjura the 8c epicentrum in two different ways 

Frankenjura is the epicentrum in the world with 100 routes 8c and harder. However, when it comes to recorded ascents during the last year, four spanish crags, within two hours from Lleida, are in top of the list.

86 Rodellar
82 Siurana
79 Margalef
73 Oliana
53 Frankenjura Facebook

Great innovative locking carabiner from Edelrid 

Click to Enlarge PictureThere exist probably a dozen different innovative locking carabiners, beside the original screw carabiner. Actually, most companies in the industry have presented technically nice advanced ideas trying to optimize the overall handling/safety issues. All of them are 20 - 200 % more expensive, except the brand new Strike Slider from Edelrid which is actually cheaper than the original screw carabiner.

The Edelrid innovation presented at Friedrichshafen is also the smallest, lightest and quickest to clip in on the market. In the beginning, it feels pretty scary to use as it is so slim and that it so easy to open. You just put your thumb on the outside lock and drag it down two mm to unlock it. It is almost as easy to open as you open your quick draw gate when you put it in the bolt hanger! In theory, of course a screw carabiner is normally a bit safer.

As a matter of a fact, the safety focused climber could actually use the Strike Slider on both ends of the quick draw as it works great also clipping in the rope. Facebook

Daniel Woods in Bishop 


Bouldern in Chemnitztal 

Bouldern im Chemnitztal from Alfred Jodokus on Vimeo.


Ciavaldini & Pearson explore The Philippines 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson came to the Philippines with the idea of making a Sea Kayak/Deep Water Solo Expedition. They had dreams of living simply, paddling along the coast and between the islands, and climbing where they wanted. As the first half of their project comes to an end, they can confirm that this “dream” is possible but might not be the most practical way to do things here… About the rock: spectacular, and although a lot of it is unbelievably sharp there is also a lot of compact overhanging white and grey walls, often covered in pockets and stalactites. Read more on their website (c) Francisco Taranto Jr. Facebook

Boulder sitstart ethics and controvercies 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe most frequent comments and complaints we receive, and also the most well known boulder controversy ever, (The Story of 2 Worlds, see picture) relate to sit starts ethics. What seems a simple and logical definition, starting sitting on one pad, are sometimes twisted and pushed, creating different prerequisites and even grades.

The sit start ethical problems relate mainly to boulders where the reach and different starting positions have an impact on the grade. Good style and ethics mean that you should start sitting using the same holds as the FA. Sometimes, a shorter boulderer needs to stack pads in order to reach the only starting position.

Bad style and ethics relate to when taller guys stack up more pads compared to shorter guys, especially if it also comes with a personal down grade, making the honest sitting guys, soft graders. Facebook

Romain Desgranges training 


Abella de La Conca opens with pick up service 

Click to Enlarge PictureNicolas Durand informs that the ECO refugio in Abella de La Conca, near Terradets and Oliana, are "after 3 and a half years of planning, financing, purchasing and renovating we are finally opening our doors to guests on March 1st 2014."

You have 100 routes within 15 min walk and you can walk to 200 and the aim is to open 100 more in 2014. 50 % are below 7a and here is the Tick List and a Left-to-Right topo will be sorted soon. They have pick up service from Barcelona airport, 2.5 h, which cost a maximum of Euro 200 for 4 person. They can also drive you to other nearby crags at a low rate.

"It's important to remember that we are a non for profit organisation which aims to develop sustainable outdoor activities and ecological preservation in Abella de La Conca so all money is reinvested in new routes, local ecological project. Facebook

Some 8C must be upgraded to 8C+ 

During the last year, the number of 8B+ and 8C boulders that have been recorded in the 8a data base are 131 and 30. In comparison, the two highest recorded routes grades 9b and 9b+ have 3 and 1 ascent.

Until some ten years ago, we had grade inflation and several super soft 8C and 8C+' were sat up and repeated quickly. They have all been down graded 1 - 2 grades and the major reason for this was the Dave Graham's The Story of 2 (grading) Worlds 8C from 2005.

Lately, it seems the grade pendulum have struck to hard creating an 8C+ grade deflation actually hindering further community progress. The only three 8C+ boulder suggestions, during the last three years, have come from Adam Ondra, including his personal upgrade on Gioia.

Having talked to potential 8C+ boulderers like; Woods, Graham, Robinson and Traversi, they all agree that it is time to do some 8C+ upgradings. Let us hope Hukkataival can get the ball rolling by giving Gioia 8C+.

"Gioia is definitely one of the most difficult boulders in the world. It’s certainly harder than most 8C’s out there. The real question is, is it a full grade harder? If we decide to consider it 8C+, then there are also a couple other contenders for 8C+ in my opinion. Facebook

Add Lodging - Place to stay 

The webmaster has improved the map and here you can add lodging (Camping, Guest Houses and Youth Hostels etc) which will be shown on our map with some 3 000 crags. Facebook

1+ month injuries  (2)

Here are the results for which 1+ month injuries are most common in comparison with an identical poll in 2009.

39 % Fingers (42 % in 2009)
19 % Shoulder (17)
16 % Elbow (14)
10 % Knees (9)
06 % Foot/Toes (7)
05 % Arm muscle (6)
04 % Other - ankle most mentioned (4) Facebook

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in Hueco Tanks Pt 1 


Chris Webb Parsons Flashing, A Maze Of Death V12 

Chris Webb Parsons, Flashing, A Maze Of Death V12. Bishop, California from chris webb parsons on Vimeo.


The highest rated easy boulders are found in USA 

Click to Enlarge PictureHere is a list of the best rated popular boulders up to 6A and actually, all but one in Sweden, are found in USA. Search the Tick List in order to find the best climbs in the world.

Stars (Ascents)
2.7 (20) Jedi Mind Tricks 6A - Bishop (c) John Rockway
2.5 (35) Slashface 6A - Joshua Tree
2.3 (21) The Maiden 5A - Hueco Tanks
2.3 (20) White Flight 6A - Tramway

2.2 (36) Once upon a time 6A - Yosemite
2.2 (35) Hershey's symphony 5A - Hueco Tanks
2.2 (32) Fettot har vita jeans 6A - Hönö SWEDEN
2.2 (22) Nobody gets out of here alive 5C - Hueco Tanks

2.1 (76) White Rastafarian 6A - Joshua Tree
2.1 (54) Indian Ladder 5C - Mt Evan
2.1 (34) Lidija's Mouth 6A - Bishop
2.1 (30) The Pork Chop 6A - Red Rocks
2.1 (21) Emerald City 5A - Tramway Facebook

Hukkataival in RMNP - LA Sportiva Apparel 


The highest rated easy routes are trad routes in Bohuslän 

Click to Enlarge PictureBy searching the highest star rating of the popular routes up to 6a in the world, we can see that all the Top-4 are trad routes found in the Bohuslän, Sweden. The #1 in the world is Villskudd followed by Prismaster, Mallorol and Bergkirstis Polska which are located in four different crags, creating the Bohuslän classics. The granite in the area is world class and it has actually been shipped all over the world.

By checking the Tick List of Bohuslän, we can also see that there are several harder trad routes that score high on the quality star rating. Beside trad routes, there are some high class sport crags including two new family crags and Granitgrottan with routes up to 8c+ (FA Ondra), as well as bouldering in the area. Bohuslän is located one hour north of Göteborg and two hours south of Norway. (c) Hampus Ivert Facebook

Swinging dead hangs with dyno 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe problems with doing dead hangs is that the hard core climber can hang 10 seconds on so small edges that it is painful and destroys the skin. One option is of course carrying weights but that is not so convenient.

An alternative could be swinging dead hangs, on campus boards, meaning that you start hanging with your feet as long away from the edge as possible. Once you let go, you get a hard pendulum swing to handle, increasing the load on your fingers. Tackling the swing will also mean that you challenge different angles of your crimp position, body and arm muscles as well as train technically.

Start by recruit your maximum finger strength by doing several one second dead hangs which can be combined with some campus moves. Experiment on how much swing you can take to be able to hang for 10 seconds. For the very advanced climbers like Hannes Puman on the picture, European Youth Champion in 2013, you can push to increase every swing.

To make it even more advanced you should try to finish of by doing one move or just dyno as high as possible. Rest for one minute which should be increased to two minutes if you do more than 10 sessions. Once you feel you get weaker you should stop the exercise. Facebook

Hueco Rock Rodeo 2014 

Hueco Rock Rodeo 2014 - Event Video! from Bearcam Media on Vimeo.


Fontainebleau Aerial video 


Alberto Rocasolano cranking in Albarracín (including the ascent of 'Txapela', 8C) 


The bouldering progress can be measured in quantity 

During the last five years, there has been a great bouldering progress measured by the number of guys that have reached 8B and how fast and how many 8A they do. It seems, the trend is to to many hard boulders quickly instead of just projecting down a personal grade best. The logical reasons for this is that there are just so many nice new boulders and areas to choose from and also all the beta videos, showing the way.

Wide grade pyramids are good especially for the youngsters and also in order to stay away from injuries. At the same time, the multiple ascents have and will even more in the future, have an impact on which ascents the media will choose to present.

The 8A and harder ranking the last year
136 James Webb
100 Martin Stranik
78 Niccolo Ceria, 76 Paul Robinson, 68 Daniel Woods, 62 Giuliano Cameroni, Facebook

Sean McColl Hueco Rock Rodeo 2014 


8c (b+) onsight by Cedric Lachat 

Kairn reports that Cedric Lachat has onsighted Aitzol, 8c (b+) in Margalef. It has previously been onsighed by Edu Marin, Jakob Schubert and Adam Ondra.

Cedric has been a very succesful competition climber for 13 years delivering top results in both Lead and Boulder. He is also pushing the grades up on the Big Walls. Facebook

8b OS by Evgeniya Malamid 

Evgeniya Malamid has onsighted Marroncita, 8b in Oliana. In the 8a ranking game she is #5. During 2008 to 2010, she made it into the Lead semifinal 14 times in a row before she stopped Lead WC's. Facebook

8A+ by Mirko Caballero (11) 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero has done his first 8A+, The Auqarium in Bishop. "Long. Reminds me how much I hate the heel hook on Aquatic Hitchhiker. Still super psyched for my first 8a+. I'm also a competitive gymnast. For now I'm trying to do both simultaneously, but if I have to choose, I will focus on climbing." (c) Christiane Caballero Facebook

OS slaughter by Piotr Schab (15) UPDATE!  (3)

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has onsighted eighth 7c+ and harder including Pais de monos, 8a+ during five days in Margalef. The 15 year old has previously redpointed up to 8c+.

During the last five days the tallented polish climber has onsighted another four 8a+ and four 8a. In the junior ranking game he is #4 but among the guys born 1996, he is #1. (c) Elias Holzknecht Facebook

8c by Hannah Midtbø 

Hannah Midtbø has done Rollito Sharma extension, 8c in Santa Linya. "The logical line! Very cool style of climbing (especially after the broken hold). Dynamic, delicate and powerful. You gotta love a route where you keep falling at the very last move :)"

In 2008, Hanna was #3 in the Euro Boulder Championship being 18 years old. In the last Lead IFSC comp she entered she won the Youth Cup. Facebook

Third 9a by Jonathan Sigrist 

Rockandice has a full length story of the 9a FA by Jonathan Sigrist in Arrow Canyon called La Reve.

"Lost count of days or tries exactly, but probably close to 30 tries over 15 climbing days or so? (Spread out over about six weeks). It's double the time that I've spent on any route since one of my first 5.14's." Facebook

8B FA by Dave Graham again  (7)

Dave Graham has done yet another 8B FA, Where Loves goes to die in Hueco Tanks. "Compression-tech, double toes, kneebars, BOMBER perfect black stone, and bring your headlamps! a real dream come true if you will. Hard to grade, def reachy, could be harder??"

In total, Dave has done 51 FA's 8B and harder making him maybe #1 in the world in this honorable discipline. Dave is well known for his vision and his FA's are spread out around the globe. Facebook

8b+ by Andrea Hah 

Andrea Hah has done her first 8b+, Mr Line in Blue Mountains. "Solid 32. Classic, crimpy, pumpy fun. First of the grade, and undisputed. Which is nice." Facebook

Katha Saurwein adds ten 8A (+)'  (5)

Click to Enlarge PictureKatharina Saurwein has added 41 climbs to her log-book including eight 8A's and two 8A+'s. Last week she did three 8A's during one day and her is the nice video The Austrian has been a succesfull competition climber for 10 years and in 2008, she was #4 in the Boulder World Cup. In the last event she entered in 2011, she was #5. Video of Katha doing 8a and 8a+ in Red River Gorge Facebook

Christine Schranz signs up with an 8c  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureChristine Schranz who was #8 in the Lead World Cup last year has done Chris Sharma's Fish eye, 8c in Oliana. The Austrian won the Youth World's in 2007 and last year she was #7.

One good explanation for all her success is that she is working at Tivoli, known as the best climbing gym in the world for World Cup climbers. Much more info and pictures at her website. Facebook

Michael O'Rourke (17) a rising star - 8B update  (4)

Click to Enlarge PictureMichael O'Rourke has during the weekend done Formula 50 super sit, 8A+ in Clear Creek Canyon and flashed The Portal Sit, 7C (+) in RMNP. In the junior ranking game, Michael is #5 but he is #1 among the 17 year olds. Today, he did his first 8B Free Range in Boulder canyon.

How do you train? (More in the forum)
I climb every day, I get outside a couple times a week and when I'm not climbing outside I will be climbing and training in the gym. At the gym I usually spend about 3 hours climbing and another hour weight training. To train I will do hundreds of pull-ups combined with campus boarding and one arm power training. Facebook

Nicola Vonarburg (39) at his peak 

Nicola Vonarburg who started climbing in 1985 is peaking 26 years later being 39. Yesterday he did his second 8c+, Riti Tribali in Angelone. In the 35+ ranking game, Nicola is #9. Facebook

8b OS by Adrian Chmiala (15) 

Adrian Chmiala has during five days in El Chorro onsighted the 55m El Oraculo, 8b and two 8a+'. The 15 year old also did Cous cous giving it a personal grade of 8b+. Facebook

Verhoeven adds 26 ascents up to 8B+ and 9a  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureJorg Verhoeven who won the World Cup in 2008 has added 26 ascents to his log-book including seven 8B and harder he did last week in Hueco Tanks. Last autumn he did three 9a's.

During the last ten years, Jorg has been one of the leading climbers also on rock including also multi-pitches. He has also been involved in developing a new crag in Croatia. Picture on Esperanza, 8B+ from his blog. Facebook

8A (+) again by Alex Johnson: Girl power 

Alex Johnson has done Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A (+) in Hueco Tanks which was her seventh 7C+ and harder the last three weeks. In 2008 she won the first World Cup she entered and then she was #2 and #1. Here she sums up 2011 and explains why she stopped focusing on WC comps. Facebook

8c+ by Daila Ojeda: Girl power!  (10)

Click to Enlarge PictureDaila Ojeda reports in her blog that she has done Mind control, 8c+ in Oliana which is a 3-star 45 metres route put up by her partner Chris Sharma. "It was really nice to clip the chains and remember what it´s like to redpoint :-) it´s so good!! hehe.. Also my friend Joe K. did the route so it was a good day for the Era Vella Team!!! Good job dude!"

Daila has previously done a few 8c's before. The ascents was filmed by Big Up so stayed tuned for a nice video. Here is a video from last year when Adam Ondra onsighted it. (c) Keith Ladzinski Facebook

8b+ by Barbara Raudner: Girl power 

Barbara Raudner (35+) has done Sin perdon, 8b+ in Perles. "Sin Perdon" is a perfect line in an amazing landscape! I have to return to Austria in a few days, but we will come back already in March, very psyched for a new project:-)." Facebook

8B+ by Mario Lechner (20) 

Mario Lechner from Austria has done his first 8B+, The Dagger in Cresciano. In 2010, he won the Euro Youth Cup and last year he was #10 in the World Cup and his worst result was #18 out of ten events.

What is your plan for 2012 and have you done any hard routes?
"I will try to stay in the Top-10 in the lead worldranking. A really big goal for me is to reach the finals in Paris at the world championships. I never did hard routes outside cause I don't really like to try routes more than 2-3 times, tha'ts why I prefer bouldering on rocks even though I'm a route climber ;) Facebook

8b+ by Ciavaldini; Flashed by Pearson 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Ciavaldini reports from their Asia trip which now has taken her and James Pearson to Buket Keteri, Malaysia.

"This cliff is astonishing, great routes, great people, great country, and what a potential!!!! Mata Timur, 8b+ I cleaned, then did in the day. It was really a very beautiful route in a roof. On top of that, James climbed the day after Nix fuer Lutscher , 8c+!" Facebook

Verhoeven and Saurwein in Hueco  (1)

Jorg Verhoeven blogs from Hueco Tanks with an inpressive Tick List for him and for Katharina Saurwein who has done an 8A+ and two 8A's.

In 2008, Jorg won the Lead World Cup and Katharina was #4 in Boulder. Facebook

7C+ flash by Alex Puccio 

Alex Puccio done another three 8A's in Hueco Tanks including Mo Mojo. "Got scared on the top out. Great training day. Did this boulder, repeated Full Service, and another 7C+ and Flashed Crimping Christ on the Cross.

Last year, Alex was #3 in the Boulder World Cup. Facebook

Two 8A's etc by Shauna Coxsey (18) 

Click to Enlarge PictureShauna Coxsey has during a two weeks visit to Hueco Tanks done two 8A's and six 7C+'. In the two Boulder World Cups the 18 year old entered last year, she was #4 and #8. Full blog report. Facebook

Salathe and 8a+ after just two years: 8a+ update  (5)

Click to Enlarge PictureArgyro Papathanasiou has just been climbing two years but she has already been on Salathe wall and last week she did her first 8a, Minimal Techno in Siurana. Previously she has been in the Greece Taekwondo team and another good explanation is her boyfriend Nicolas Favresse, who took the picture.

"It was after a period of an injury I had in Yosemite and couldn't climb for 1 month. Now ready for even bigger challenges and adventures!" Today, Argyro did Brot de Fonol, 8a+. Facebook

3 quick 8B (+)'s by Jakob Schubert 

Jakob Schubert has had some great days in Cresciano where he did The Dagger, 8B+ in 2.5 hours and Confessions, 8B (+) in 45 minutes. He also did Boogalagga, 8B in 30 min.

Last year, Jakob set a new record by winning the first seven Lead World Cup events. In the first Boulder World Cup he was #2. Here he describes his training. Facebook

8B+ by James Webb 8B (+) update  (1)

Today James made a quick repeat of Gecko assis giving it the same 8B grade as also Ondra suggested.

James Webb has added another test piece to his impressive quick send list in Fontainebleau, The Island, 8B+. "2nd day. Felt amazing to put it together!" During his first week he has done nine 8A's and harder and he is now #2 in the ranking game.

Have you done any special preparation?
I feel like I've been training for Font all my life. I grew up climbing on the sandstone of the south east (USA) so when I got here I noticed immediately the similarities.

What is your recipe for maximum power?
Just climbing as much as possible, working on things I need to improve on. I occasionally do dead hang, campus board and pull ups although the more of this I do, the more I get injured. Facebook

8c+ (9a) by Ben Spannuth 

Ben Spannuth has done Golden Direct at the Cathedral giving it a personal grade of 8c+. Seven months ago, his personal best was 8b+ and now he is #6 in the ranking game.

Earlier Ben discussed climbing static or dynamic. "I definitely prefer to stick with a static style because I am way more confident I won't fall. But as I get pumped cant maintain being static. To me the real trick is acknowledging which specific moves require you to "flip the switch" and punch through dynamically, then still be able to return to a more efficient style of movement". Facebook

8A+ (B) and more by Jan Hojer (19) 

Jan Hojer in taking advantage of prime conditions in Fontainebleau where he did four 8A's and harder during one day including Narcotic with he gave a personal grade of 8A+.

Jan is also a succesful competition climber who last year won one European Cup in Boulder. Among the seniors, his best result was #10 and #13. In 2010, he was #2 in the Euro Lead Youth Cup. Facebook

Two 8B+' in a day by Hukkataival 

Nalle Hukkataival blogs about having done two 8B+' yesterday in Fontainebleau. First he did the FA of Realist and then he quickly sent Gecko assis. Facebook

8c again by Muriel Sarkany (37) 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany has done her fourth 8c during the last six months, Rollito Sharma extension in Santa Linya. "I'm so happy to send this route ! Last time a hold was broken in the 8b+ part, and it was very difficult to stay motivate after that but today I did it !!!!!and somebody told me that I'm the first women to do it ;-)"

The 37 year old and 153 cm tall, has won 17 World Cups. Five times she won Overall and in 2003 she was the World Champion. As a rock climber she seems to be a late bloomer :) and she is #2 in the ranking game. Facebook

8B+ by James Webb in an hour 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has started his first Font trip in an amazing way by doing Kheops assis, 8B+ in an hour. "Felt amazing to finally climb on this boulder! I'll be here for the whole month. The area fits my style perfectly".

Which is the best temperature?
Not sure on the best temps. 0 and sunny felt great today. Maybe a bit warmer could be better. Interview with the guy who has had a continous progress for seven straight years. Facebook

Big FA by Alex Honnold in Mexico 

Alex Honnold has done the first free ascent of the eleven pitch El Giraffe Libre, 8a in El Gran Trono Blanco a previous aid line. "FA with Will Stanhope. It's the best line and the best aid route on the wall I think.
It's a similar size and style to the smaller cliffs in Yosemite. Only 10 pitches or so, but good granite and nice technical climbing. A bit slabby. Small feet. I think it breaks down as 10+, 13b, 12a, 13a, 12d, 11b, 10, 11,10b. Awesome wall, cool corners. Sporty gear. Added some bolts on free climbing variations."
More info at Climbing Facebook

8A+ by Alex Johnson  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Johnson has done her seventh 8A+, Lethal Design in Red Rocks. "Great support crew and tons of pads! Long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn."

In 2008, she won the first Boulder WC she entered and in the two following WC's she was #2 and #1. Here she sums up 2011 and explains why she has retired from the WC comp scene. Facebook

8C by Chris Webb Parsons  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons has done his third 8C, Desperanza in Hueco Tanks which is a sit start to Esperanza, 8B+ that Daniel Woods respectively Fred Nicole has put up in. "Im not sure if the full grade of V15 (8C) is correct for this boulder, but being that is a tad harder than Esperanza maybe V15 is correct?"

Here is an interview including his training which is structured by Christian Core. More details in his blog. Facebook

8B+ FA by Daniel Woods again 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has opened yet another 8B+, Mind to Motion at Elkland. "The line goes out a 35 degree overhanging bulge. There are two near parallel rails leading to a flat hold at the 3/4 point. The style is wide compression moves between the two rails with involved heel hooking and edging." (c) Dariusz Kuczynski

Daniel has been one of the leading boulderers in the world since 2006 when he was 17 year old. Totally he has done 12 8C boulders out of which five in 2011. This spring he will focus more on sport. Long interview coming up including nice thoughts on training, lifestyle and gradings. Facebook

8A again by Alex Puccio 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done Sunshine, 8A in Hueco Tanks which was her seventh 8A and harder the last year. There are now six 8a girls who have done the great boulder. She also did two 7C+, calling Full Service, "Best climb I have done in Hueco Tanks!" In 2011, Alex was #3 in the Boulder WC. Facebook

8B+ in a day by Sean McColl 

Sean McColl reports that he did Kheops assis, 8B+ in just one day. More info. Last November, Sean did two 8B+ and one 8C just before he won his first Lead World Cup. The Canadian has won five Youth World Championship titles. Facebook

8A+ by Sarah Seeger  (2)

Click to Enlarge PictureMarmot reports that Sarah Seeger, who is their PR & Communications Manager, has done Kalte Sophie, 8A+ in Frankenjura in just four days. Sarah has previously also done 8c routes. There are at least a dozen female who previously have done 8A+ and at least four who has done 8B. (c) Ricarda Miller Facebook

9a by Alizée Dufraisse  (12)

Click to Enlarge PictureAlizée Dufraisse blogs blogs about her first 9a, La Reina Mora in Siurana. The route was set up by Ramon Julian Puigblanque as an 8c in 2008 and has later been subject of several upgradings. There are previously three female who have done 9a, Josune Bereziartu, Charlotte Durif and Sasha Digulian.

Alizée who previously has done 8c+, is a very active competition climber who in 2010 was #3 in the Euro Lead Champion. She has also once, won the Arco Rock Masters in Bouldering. (c) Francisco Taranto JR Facebook

9a by Tom Bolger in Santa Linya 

Click to Enlarge PictureTom Bolger has done his fifth 9a in Santa Linya, Fabela pa la enmienda. Since three years, Tom has been living in the area working as an english teacher and for the last year, he lives in the very small village Santa Linya just above the great cave. His next project is Catxasa, 9a+ and he also wants to climb more in Oliana and Margalef as well as bolt some more news.

"I work 5 days a week in the evenings so can often be seen grabbing all my stuff together and rushing off to work at about 4 o'clock. I am planning to stay in Catalonia for a long time, although I will be back in the uk for the summers." Facebook

8A by Shauna Coxsey (18) 

Shauna Coxsey has done Zoo York, 8A in Caley. Last year, the 18 year old was #4 and #8 in the two Boulder World Cups she did. Facebook

Iris Matamoros Quero joins the 9a club  (2)

Iris Matamoros Quero has done his first 9a, Esclatamasters in Perles which was opened by Ramon Julian Puigblanque in 2006. It is an excellent 40 metres routes challenging different styles of climbing. Iris has previously done three 8c+.

As of 2012, around 70 climbers have done at least one of the maybe 120 9a routes in the world. Facebook

8B+ by Kevin Lopata 

Kevin Lopata has done Satan i Helvete départ bas, 8B+ in Fontainebleau. The French guy have done many of the hardest boulders in the forest including the FA of La force du destin, 8B+. Facebook

8c by Florence Pinet 

Florence Pinet has done with Métaphysique des tubes, 8c in Seynes which was here first of the grade. Florence was active on the competition scene until 2009 and has previously done several 8b and 8b+'. Facebook

8A again by Conny Matthes 

Conny Matthes has done Der Undertan, 8A in Thuringen and Hunde die bellen beißen nicht, 7C+ in Frankenjura. Last year, Conny did three 8A+'s. Facebook

8c+ (9a) FA by Roland Hemetzberger 

Click to Enlarge PictureRoland Hemetzberger has opened Tunnelblick, 8c+ or 9a in Achleiten which is 30 m long starting with 8b+ followed by a 7C+ boulder. "My Best Route ever and maybe the hardest FA in Austria the last year."
More info at

"On the same day I opened another 8b+ or 8c route, Wild traverse with crazy moves on a golden typ of rock named Goldenpearl!" Facebook

8A by Sasha Digulian (19) 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian has done Sunshine, 8A in Hueco Tanks where she also has done three 7C+ during the last two weeks. Video is coming up. In 2011, Sasha did her first 9a and she was the Combined World Champion. Facebook

8b+ by Melissa Le Neve 

Melissa Le Neve has done Renegoide, 8b+ in Siurana. "I did it the first day, when I came in Siurana (after many tries in my last trip). It's really not my style but it's nice to change and to be confront in other thing!" In the Boulder WC in 2011, Melissa was #4 and she leads the 8a boulder ranking game. Facebook

8B+ by Sam Davis 

Sam Davis has after having done 12 8B's made his first 8B+, Esperanza in Hueco Tanks. Blogging pictures Facebook

8a+ OS's in Laos by Pearson & Ciavaldini  (1)

James Pearson reports from a new amazing crag in eastern Laos called Thakhek where he and his girlfriend Caroline Ciavaldini onsighted Big Smile, 8a+.

"The main event however is the gigantic roof on the right. 20m of horizontal, gloriously featured Emmental. Huge jugs and slopers, nothing sharp, nothing loose, nothing chipped or glued – this might be the best roof I have climbed in!" Facebook

8C FA by Paul Robinson  (2)

Click to Enlarge Picture27crags reports that Paul Robinson has opened Medowlark Lemon, 8C at Red Rocks which is a 8B sitstart to a previous 8B problem. Paul spent eights days over two years to take it down.

"I considered it one of the best lines I have ever climbed on in the entire world. The boulder is super physical, yet really technical. The crux revolves around some really crazy heel hooks on the left arete."

More pics at Pauls blog. Facebook


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