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The Franken experience: Moroni & Reffo  Facebook
 

 
 
Tommy Caldwell portrait  Facebook
 

 
 
One Day with The Tor, Raven Tor Bouldering  Facebook
 

A Day with The Tor from Eliot Stephens on Vimeo.

 
 
Women Climbing Symposium London 2/11  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe third edition of Women Climbing Symposium will take place November 2 at The Arch Climbing Wall in London. They sold out the two first years and there are 200 spots available including 40 non-coaching tickets. More info including a video.

Shauna Coxsey, one of the best boulderers in the world, "I love helping people and using my knowledge and experience to give others a better understanding of their climbing. I like seeing people achieve their goals and I think it is incredible that I have the opportunity to help people achieve them. My experiences in the climbing world are quite extensive and I have learnt so much from so many different people. I can’t wait to coach at this year’s symposium and do my best to help the lucky women who are attending the day!

 
 
Many kids below 13 do 8A and 8b+  Facebook
 

During 2013, there is just an explosion of wonder kids that have done 8A or 8b+ and many of these remarkable ascents are not reported. Normally we need an OK from their parents or that the news is already out there, in order to make head lines for the kids that have not yet turned teenager.

I would guess that at least a 15 kids have at least done 8A or 8b+ the last year, which could be compared with three years ago where we heard maybe one or two such ascents. I would not be surprised if we will have a dozen below 10 years old, doing 8A or 8b+ within few years. Climbing is amazing :)

 
 
O'Rourke Lincoln Lake  Facebook
 

O'Rourke Lincoln Lake from Mad Rock Climbing on Vimeo.

 
 
Chris Schulte doing 8C in Font  Facebook
 

 
 
Adidas Rockstars - Sport Meets Music  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe third edition of Adidas Rockstars will take place this Friday and Saturday in Stuttgart. This event's line-up is more impressive than ever; Alex Puccio (picture), Digiulian, Noguchi, Coxsey, Le Neve, Kim, Saurwein, Dufraisse, Markovic, Hukkataival, McColl, Sharafutdinov, Gelmanov, Amma, Mondet, Moroni, Webb-Parsons, Hojer and Verhoeven. In total, 50 athletes will start at Friday's qualifier.

The final on Saturday will be Streamed Live starting at 19.15. The webcast starts with the concert of the punkrock band Badasstics, and ends with the award ceremony at 23h00.

In the qualification and semifinal, the competition format is the more or less the same as in the World Cups. During the final round, the 6 finalists climb two different boulders. The 3 best finalists of this round fight on a third boulder problem for the super final.

During the super final, two climbers compete on identical routes, and the first person standing on the top of the boulder after hitting a buzzer is the winner.

 
 
Lost in North America: Ep. 1 - Rumney, NH  Facebook
 

 
 
Arco - Boulder Women Final  Facebook
 

 
 
Advanced Training for Climbing  Facebook
 

 
 
Heritage - 71 minutes of great (2) Stories  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has together with his girl friend produced Heritage where Carlo gives us his stories of success and failures doing some of the hardest boulders in the world including the Story of Two Worlds 8C and finding his heritage in southern Switzerland in the fall 2012. Everything with the film is great including camera work, editing and even the music. Looking at it, you realize how much hard work and frustration it is to create an 8C headline on 8a and let us hope we can see more like this in the future to stay away from all the numbers. Read More, Check trailer and Buy it for USD 10.

 
 
Alexander Megos interview  Facebook
 

Vertical Life Mag has a nice interview with Alexander Megos which sums up his trip to Australia. "Taipan is definitely one of the best walls on Earth and to be honest I have never climbed some sport routes on a wall which is more impressive than the Taipan Wall.

 
 
Downgradings confirmed in Rocklands  Facebook
 

Ten years ago, I started to talk about boulder grade inflation in Switzerland compared to the established Fontainebleau standard. Today, most hard core boulders in Swizz have been down graded one or two steps.

Five years ago, I said grade inflation also existed in Rocklands as most guys made personal best' there. Also this time I was heavily criticized but as more guys have started to give personal grades it is now also a fact, based on 8a members opinions, that in general all hard core boulders have been down graded one step in Rocklands.

Some of the guys who have devaluated their own performances and taking the sometimes unpleasant role to assist correcting the grades in Rocklands are: Michele Caminati, Alex Honnold, James Webb, Ethan Pringle, Niccolo Ceria, Jan Hojer, Adam Ondra, Carlo Traversi, Matt Fultz, Jerney Kruder and Alexey Rubtsov - Thanks!

 
 
8C by Woods and an even harder one by Webb  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has made the first repeat of James Webb recent 8C in Mt Evans, The Wheel of Wolvo. "4 days of effort. This thing is stiff for me... Had to climb tall to get er done. Low start to over cling traverse, completing the full line of the roof. 30 moves in total. Sequential and powerful, one of my favs in CO. Nice one on Jimmy Webb's part in putting this beast up."

James Webb has added a ten moves harder exit to his 8C, calling it Delirium but he sticks with 8C. Now he hopes to add an 8B+ exit instead of Delirium's 8A+ finish but still he thinks also that one will go at 8C. (c) Dave Graham

"Kinda the more direct finish and definitely a small step above the original wheel. Climbing this thing into We can build you is seeming more and more doable. Loving life here in the mountains.."

Daniel is 166 cm and 63 kilos meanwhile James is 182 and 79 kilos. Daniel has been the ranking game leader for more or less five straight years, James has a very strong upgoing trend and is now #3.

 
 
Michael O'Rourke Sends V13/8B Video  Facebook
 

Michael O'Rourke sends Great War for Civilization V13/8B, Exfoliator V12/8A+ and Unshackled Sit V11/8A in this video.

 
 
The Wheel of Chaos 8B+ by Woods  Facebook
 

Daniel Woods - Wheel of Chaos V14 FA from Bearcam Media on Vimeo.

 
 
Adidas Rockstars 13-14 Sep in Stuttgart  Facebook
 

 
 
Adam Ondra interview in the new gym in Copenhagen  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra in Copenhagen from Jeppe Kempf Nørskov on Vimeo.

 
 
448 new crags to the data base  Facebook
 

The 8a crag data base now consists of 3 468 route crags and 1 497 boulder areas. For all these 5 000, you can get a Tick List to see which climbs are most popular and also check the star rating etc.

 
 
Euro Youth Cup in Stavanger - Norway  Facebook
 

Manon Hily FRA - Maël Bonzom FRA
Anak Verhoeven BEL - Jakob Heber Norum NOR
Alina Ring SUI - Sascha Lehmann SUI
Complete results

It should be noted that some of the best countries like Austria, Slovenia and Russia did not participate. In absence of these countries, France and Switzerland dominated.

 
 
8B flash by Tsukuru Hori  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKletterzene.com reports that Tsukuru Hori, who has won one Boulder WC, has flashed Charity Bouldern 8B and in 15 min done Memento 8B+, which originally was set up as an 8C+. Tsukuru also flashed four 8A's and did Niviuk 8A in his sneakers.

 
 
Nalle & Fred - Contrast in Style  Facebook
 

Nalle and Fred from neil hart on Vimeo.

 
 
The North Face La Reunion Expedition  Facebook
 

 
 
Sport climbing in the Dolomites  Facebook
 

Sportclimbing in the Dolomites - by Vertical Life from Vertical Life on Vimeo.

 
 
Kausch beats the 6000ers world record  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Argentinian Máximo Kausch is currently trying to climb all the 6000ers in the Andes. He passed the 60th summit in mid August and broke the world record held before by the swiss guide Michel Siegenthaler. He's doing most of the approaches and climbs completely alone on his 250cc motorbike. Know more about him and his project in this article with photos.

 
 
Tito - Forever in our hearts  Facebook
 

For Tito, forever in our hearts. from Mountain View on Vimeo.

 
 
Grade deflation and inflation at the same time  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSome years ago, we saw a dramatic inflation in the hard core bouldering grades. This was more or less stopped once Dave Graham put up The story of two world's as an 8C in 2005, just to stress the world's two gradings. Graham and few others had prior to 2005 given personal grades that had been backed up by 8a.

Although we have seen a great progress in terms of flashes and quick sends of 8B's and 8B+', the maximum redpoint is still 8C as it has been for a decade now, if we exclude Ondra. All previous 8C+' have been down graded.

It seems that the top guys of today are very modest with gradings and one example of this is of course James Webb who yesterday linked an 8B+ with an 8A/+ to create his first 8C. It is possible to exit the 8B+ with an 8B+ but even so, he is not saying that such a link would create an 8C+.

The picture shows an 8a article from 2009, discussing a strange grades discrepancy that now have grown even stronger. Ondra has suggested an upgrade of Gioia to 8C+ and it seems we need some more in order to make the grades confirm the great progress we have seen during the last ten years. We also need to use the new personal grades set by 8a members to become the standard to correspond to the the story of the world's first 8A's.

 
 
Crimea Memories  Facebook
 

CRIMEA MEMORIES Official Trailer from Durka Dream Team on Vimeo.

 
 
Munich Boulder WC report  Facebook
 

 
 
Ondra and Sharma totally dominate the 9b stats  Facebook
 

Here is the list of the 15 routes, 9b and harder in the world out of which Adam Ondra has done ten and Chris Sharma seven. Flatanger in Norway has four 9b's, Oliana and Siurana in Spain three.

9b+ Change - Flatanger FA Ondra -12
9b+ La Dura Dura - Oliana FA Ondra -13, Sharma

Chilam Balam - FA Fernandez -03, Ondra
Delincuente Extension - Rodellar FA Andrada -08
Jumbo Love - Clark Mtn FA Sharma -08
Golpe de Estado - Siurana FA Sharma -08, Ondra
Neanderthal - Santa Linya FA Sharma -09
First Round First Minute - Margalef FA Sharma -11
La Capella - Siurana FA Ondra -11
Chaxi Raxi - Oliana FA Ondra -11
La Planta del Shiva - V. del Rosario FA Ondra -11
Stoking the Fire - Santa Linya FA Sharma -13
Fight or Flight - Oliana FA Sharma -13, Ondra
Iron Curtain - Flatanger Ondra -13
Move - Flatanger FA Ondra -13

Grades are subjective and probably there is at least one 9a+ that will qualify for the list in few years. I have excluded boulder routes and DWS. Please feel free to update or comment the list. In one way the 9b list also gives credit to Wolfgang Gullich who put up Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura. Beside Ondra and Sharma, we have not seen any dramatic redpoint progress since 1991!

 
 
Ondra and Markovic Award winners in Arco  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra won the Salewa Rock Legend and Mina Markovic La Sportiva Competition Award at Arco. The winners in the Lead event were Ramon Julian Puigblanque who took his seventh Arco Lead title and Mina Markovic. In Bouldering Alex Puccio and Rustam Gelmanov won. Complete results

 
 
Iker Arroitajauregi - Hoyamoros 2013  (7) Facebook
 

Check the I and II news that we wrote in the Spanish site on Iker Arroitajauregi's passage by Hoyamoros with his comments about his more important sends.

 
 
Boulder Festival in Siberia  Facebook
 

Скальный фестиваль на Столбах 2013. Хитрушки from BULLmovie on Vimeo.

 
 
Euro Youth Cup in Stavanger - Norway  Facebook
 

The second stage of the Euro Youth Cup in 2013 will take place in Stavanger - Norway, this weekend and it will be streamed live. Both the flash qualifications on Saturday and finals on Sunday will start 9.00.

 
 
The MP grade dilemma for the media  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGrades are the number one criteria for the climbing media to select which ascents to report. One FA can suggest 8c for a MP which means any ascent will create headlines worldwide. Another FA can suggest 8b for an equal difficult MP, which means the ascent will not reach the media coverage.

MP climbing is much more about adventure and beauty compared to sport climbing, i.e. the grade achievement is of less importance meaning very few give personal grades.

The MP grade dilemma for the media is of course that a down grade is no minor detail as we want to focus on the adventure and beauty. Camillotto-Pellesier was put up as an 8b in 2003 but it has gradually been down graded and today it stands as an 7c+, meaning it will most likely not reach the media headlines even if it is truly amazing MP.

A practical example of this is the nice MP's by Daniel Moreno, including Bellavista 8c, see the picture, this summer, reported by Planet Mountain. Asking why he did not put them into his scorecard, he answers that these experience are not about numbers that should be put into a box.

"But if you want to know... I felt the route more 8b than 8b+. It's not a downgrading just a feeling...". In other words, the amazing Bellavista should not qualify making male headlines in the future.

Of course, it is the same logic for sport climbing and bouldering but here everyone agrees that the grades are more important and with the personal grades, a FA mistake is more quickly corrected.

 
 
Reel Rock 8 Trailer  Facebook
 

 
 
Rocklands from Nils Favre  Facebook
 

Rockland 2013 from Nils Favre on Vimeo.

 
 
Essentials of Climbing: Trad Climbing  Facebook
 

Essentials of Climbing: Trad Climbing from EASTERN MOUNTAIN SPORTS on Vimeo.

 
 
DPM Magazine Online  Facebook
 

Dead Point Magazine presents another great online magazine with 56 pages including several interesting articles and the pictures are amazing.

 
 
Heritage video available now  Facebook
 

HERITAGE • Official Trailer from Born Denali on Vimeo.

 
 
Sean Mc Coll almost flashed that... Beast !  Facebook
 

 
 
Rocklands high class under 7A  Facebook
 

 
 
New Editor for Italy  Facebook
 

Starting from today, the global news will be translated to Italian. If you have some national news you want to publish please send a mail to karmapi@gmail.com. This Monday, the italian page received almost 2 000 visits by 466 unique computers.

In total there are some 100 contributers that can write news on the Global and country specific pages. Ignacio Sandoval Buron has been in charge for the Spanish site since 2002. If you would like to help out, please send a mail to jens@8a.nu.

 
 
The Rocklands  Facebook
 

 
 
Masouri Clean up on Saturday  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimb Kalymnos reports that there will be a clean up in Masouri this Saturday starting at the Noufaro restaurant at 9.00.

"This coming Saturday morning, September 7th at 09:00, locals and climbers will come together to clean the roadside between the villages of Masouri and Arginonta. Initiated by a group of Kalymnians who also cleaned some of the area’s beaches earlier this summer, the cleanup is a good chance to raise awareness about our serious trash problem and get people involved.

 
 
Raffaella Cottalorda winner of free trip to TNF Kalymnos Festival  Facebook
 

Raffaella Cottalorda is the winner of a free trip to The North Face Kalymnos Festival which will take place 10-13 October and she can bring one friend. All 8a members that had recored at least ten ascents this summer and also got a personal best score, participated in the lottery. We have drawn a member number by random and then checked if the member qualified. Raffaella was #7 in the lottery tombola.

 
 
Anna Stöhr doing the FFA of The Vice 8B in two different shoes  (3) Facebook
 

 
 
Edu Langa in Asturias  Facebook
 

 
 
50 000 members :)  (9) Facebook
 

Today 8a member #50 000 signed up and we are approaching 2.8 million ascents in the data base. During the last four years the traffic has grown around 30 % each year and the same goes for 2013. Spain, USA and Germany are the fastest growing country specific pages. We are always looking for more volunteers to translate news, edit the data base etc.

 
 
 
9a FA by Cedric Lachat  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNina Caprez reports that her boyfriend Cedric Lachat has done an extension to Speed in Voralpsee for which he proposes 9a. (c) Stefan Schlumpf

Speed was put up in 1995 by Beat Kammerlander as an 8c+ "but anywhere else would be graded 9a". It does not end at the top so Cedric continued up the 8b extension of Lucy to the left.

"So often he felt because his foot were slipping or other stupid things. Also it was really hard to memorize all the foot holds in this 30m line. Every hold looks kind of similar and the fact that he tried once per year, he forgot everything! that's Cedric!;-)"

 
 
9a by Felix Knaub (19)  Facebook
 

UKC reports that Felix Knaub has done the ultra classic Action Direct, 9a in Frankenjura which Wolfgang Güllich put up in 1991. Felix did his first 9a when he was 17 year old, Matador also in Frankenjura.

 
 
8B again by Guntram Jörg  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has done his ninth 8B in a month, Bourguignon in Murgtal. "Sec. Ascent, First established by Fred Nicole. Mega compression climb all the way up. One of the best, Fred was also there and told me some beta and i crushed it before it got dark, took me about half an hour but its 4 shure a hard one!" Gu comments his extreme progress lately.

 
 
New 8c, 18 pitches on Madagascar  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUpdate: The news seems to be based on some misunderstanding since they actually just did the pitches up to 7c. The rest they aided. Planetmountain reports that Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur in August have established Dreams of Youth on Tsaranoro Atsimo which is a 700m, 18 pitches including one 8c and three 8b+'s. (c) Kletterzene

Last October, Adam Ondra established Mora Mora 8c 700 m and repeated a 600m 8b and a 380m 8c in the same spectacular area.

 
 
Caldwell twitter from snowy El Cap  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTommy Caldwell twitters from his El Cap 30 pitches project where he already has spent a week with his wife.

"That was a intense one today on pitch 12. First I pulled a few pitons and took big falls. Then I broke a few footholds. Five tries later I finally had the new sequence through the bottom worked out. Then I fell at the very end... Twice. Temps never got above freezing. Eight tries in all and no send. The good news is that I am feeling strong. This one just wasn't in the cards for me today."

 
 
8c+ by Dylan Barks (16)  Facebook
 

Dylan Barks has jumped two grades and done Joe Kinder's Southern smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. In the -95 ranking game he is #7.

 
 
8a+ OS by Ievgeniia Kazbekova (15)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIevgeniia Kazbekova has onsighted Super Priapos 8a+ and Fun de Chichunne 8a at Kalymnos. In 2010, she won the Youth worlds and she did her first 8b+ being 13 years old.

Her mother Nataliya has a silver and bronze in the Boulder World Championship. Her father Serik was #2 in the Boulder WC in 1999 and in the world championship in 2005, he was #4 in bouldering and #7 in Lead. (c) Anna Piunova Gallery

 
 
Speed bouldering by Gu  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg continues his rampage in Switzerland and during three days he did five 8A+ and three 8B in Sustenpass and the amazing thing is that he did each one in less than 15 minutes.

"Probably this days have been the last possible climbing days before the snow is coming. The conditions have been perfect." (c) Martin Keller

 
 
8A+ flash by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet  Facebook
 

Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has had a good week where he first did two 8B's in Font, then he flashed La Pelle, 8A+ in Cresciano and he also was #2 in IMS Cup after Ondra but ahead of Fischhuber.

 
 
9a FA by Gabri Moroni in China  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabri Moroni has done the FA of Coup de Bambou, 9a in Getu Valley and he is #7 in the game. "Great experience trying it with the international homies Enzo,Dave,Mickey,Jon,Gé!! Sent on my last day in China!" China blog and video by Gabri.

This was the fifth 9a for the very active boulder WC climber who got the bronze in the Euro Championship being 17 year old. In 2008 he was #4 and in 2009 he was #3 in the Boulder WC. (c) Beau Kahler

 
 
8c for the 40m Century Crack roof  (16) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOne month ago Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall climbed the 40 meter Century Crack in pink point style meaning the gear was pre placed. It was aided in 2001 and then 9a climber Stevie Haston started to project it calling it Century crack and estimated it to be 9a or harder.

No grade was suggested but after they had done several of the hardest cracks in USA in the weeks that followed they suggested 8c. From Wideboyz.blogspot.com, ""As many people know, Pete and I spent 2 years slogging our guts out in a crack cellar underneath my house.

We trained so specifically for Century Crack – we had an almost exact replica of the whole route and we trained....and trained.... and trained.... We did over 17,000ft of Century Crack climbing in 2 years, which equates to having already climbed it 42 times each!"

 
 
Five 8a's Cathy Wagner (46)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has during the last month done four 8a's and Je hais les gosses, 8a+ in Briançonnais. During the last year the 46 year old has done 17 routes 8a or harder.

 
 
7C+ by Anne Gray (49)  Facebook
 

Anne Gray has done Air tronic, 7C+ at Plex. "Now that put a smile on my face." When she was 42, she did her first 8A out of three and in December she turns 50.

 
 
Caldwell attempting the world hardest? MP  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTommy Caldwell is right now up on El Cap trying to do the Dawn Wall - Mescalito project which he has worked with Kevin Jorgeson since 2007. The project goes up on the blankest sector of El Capitain and includes some 30 pitches out of which seven pitches around 8c .

Kevin injured his ankle two weeks ago so Tommy is up there with his wife. Old videos and her Twitter reports by Tommy. Climbing presenteda 35 page uncut interview last year. (c) "Working through pitch 10 this morning. Hope to send tonight!!"

 
 
8b OS by David Firnenburg (16)  (1) Facebook
 

David Firnenburg has during a couple of days in Osp/Misja Pec onsighted Bitka s stalaktiti 8b, one 8a+ and two 8a's. In the ranking game the 17 year old is #15.

 
 
8c+ by Ruben Firnenburg (14)  Facebook
 

Ruben Firnenburg has done Sympathy for the Devil, 8c+ in Frankenjura which is a, "Nice combination of "Queel dich du Sauu" and "Black is basic", mainly crimps."

 
 
8c FA MP by Dani Andrada  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePetzl reports from their very succesfull Roc trip in Getu China that Dani Andrada has made the first ascent of Corazon de Ensueno, 8c. (c) Sam Biè

Dani who is the who has put up mo´st hard core routes in the world, says, "This is definitely the best climb I have ever created." First he spent 11 days of setting up the eight pitches 7c+ to 8c and then he worked the route for three days.

 
 
7th 8b by Tito Traversa (10)  Facebook
 

Tito Traversa has done his seventh 8b, Sarsifal in Tetto di Sarre. His first 8b (+) he did when he was 9 year old.

 
 
8c+ by Jolly Lamberti (46)  Facebook
 

Planetmountain reports that Jolly Lamberti has done the first repeat of Debolezza e disonore, 8c+ at Grotti which was opened by Fabrizio Peri. Jolly (46) is a training guru from Italy who currently is projecting a 9a+.

 
 
8B+ by Alban Besnier  Facebook
 

Alban Besnier has made a nice personal best doing the first repetition of Julien Nadiras Le Clash, 8B+ in Rioupéroux. Video

 
 
8A+ by Therese Johansen  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTherese Johansen reports on her blog that she has done Pura Vida, 8A+ in Magic Wood in snowy conditions. "Must have been tailor made for me... YES I love to crimp!!!(and hate heel hooking)." It was put up by Bernd Zangerl in 2003 as an 8B and this was the fourth female ascent.

 
 
Michi Wohlleben 17 MP in Morocco  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichael Wohlleben gives us a story from Taghia Valley in Morocco. "After A few easy routes I met Toni Arbones (chief of Camping in Siurana) he told me that he bolted a route together with the big Legend Kurt Albert."

3 hours approach and then the 17 pitches, Antro.po.cene up to 8a, which Toni opened last month and then Michi made the first repeat - Very nice video.

 
 
8b+ by Kristina Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChechclimbing reports that Kristina Ondra has done her first 8b+, Kudlanka at Moravsky Kras. Newsworthy is also that the her father has done his first 8a although he has been climbing for more than 25 years. So if his son also is a late bloomer, Adam will do 9c+ at his age. (c) Pepe Piechowicz

 
 
8b by Lena Herrmann (17)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLena Herrmann has done Riesenslalom Direkt, 8b and SMS, 8a+ in Frankenjura and she is #3 in the junior game.

"Fast ascent. Checked it out maybe 3 times, then I did a try and the next GO was the ascent.I think that's the reason why I did it so fast:
The rock was full of SPIDERS.! and there is nothing which is more disgusting.! So I didn't want to climb between them once more. That made my climb ;-)"

 
 
8C FA again by Dave Graham  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham has made his fifth 8C FA, The Ice Knife at Guanella Pass. For more than 10 years, Dave has been on the cutting edge and when it comes to produce hard core FAs around the globe, he is #1 in the history of bouldering.

"A majestic prow, jutting out of the forest on a northeast facing slope. A very technical compression climb, and extra conditony. Took me eleven days over two seasons, and it was a huge relief to final climb it. Difficult to grade, but one of the more challenging problems I have tried in a very long time, so we will see."

 
 
8b+ by Chelsea Rude  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChelsea Rude has done her first 8b+, Ixeia in Rodellar. ":) First 8b+ & I believe I can do harder :) A MUERTE!" Previously, 8a+ was and 7C+ bouldering were her personal best'.

In 2011, she has participated in one Boulder and one Lead WC, finishing #17 and #11.

 
 
8c by Barbara Raudner  Facebook
 

Barbara Raudner blogs about her ascent of Honig, 8c in Hollental which is a 45m endurance route. This was the 35+ fourth 8c.

 
 
8c by Emily Harrington  Facebook
 

Climbing reports that Emily Harrington has done Joe Kinder's Waka Flocka, 8c in Rifle after some 45 tries. In the world champion 2005, Emily (19) did get the silver.

 
 
9a by Guillaume Lebret  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuillaume Lebret has done the new naturelle verison without sika of Trip Tic Tonic in Gorges du Loup confirming the upgrade to 9a. Everyone has given it three stars also including the Sika. In march he broke a bone in his heal and six months later he does his first 9a. More pics at Guillaume's blog

 
 
8C and 8B+ FA's by Adam Ondra  (6) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has had a great day in Petrohrad where he opened, Cháron 8C, "Great to feel progression, spent three days on it last winter and now went within 30 minutes. Fits my style exactly."

He also made the FA of Underground 8B+, "Huge powerful moves, morphological, could be easier, but felt hard to me." In total Adam has opened four 8B+ and two 8C and he is now just two points behind Daniel Woods in the game.

 
 
8C FA by Daniel Woods again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has made his seventh 8C FA, La force tranquille, 8C in Magic Wood. The 22 year old has been the leader of the game for several years and now Adam Ondra is just two points behind.

"Wow! such a mental and condition war for me. Located on the backside of the darkness cave. Has very subtle movement using small, slopey edges and poor feet out a 45 degree overhang. This one is for you Courtney... thanks for supporting me and walking up to the boulder multiple times. Now I can move forward."

 
 
FA explorerer Nalle Hukkataival  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNalle Hukkataival has recorded 27 boulders 8A and harder he has done this autumn including 13 FA's. The Fin has put up 20 boulders 8B and harder the last seven years around the globe. (c) Keith Ladzinski - FA of Parallel Lines, 8A in Grampians.

Nalle was an active competition climber until 2008 and in 2005 he was #5 in the world champion and in 2007, he got the silver in the European champion.

 
 
8b+ trad by Yuji Hirayama (41)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureYuji Hirayama reports on Facebook, "Back from Italy. I did the Green Spits (I think it's more like 8b+ with placing gears) second go! Short trip but great satisfaction". Yuji is one of the true legends who won the World Cup in 1998 and who has been one of the best onsight and also big wall climbers in the history.

Green Spit is a 12m horizontal roof crack based on hand, fist and finger jams. In 2003, Didier Berthod chopped the bolts and climbed it on pre-placed gear giving it 8b+. Two years later he did it clean.

 
 
8c+ OS by Ramonet  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque has had some great time in Rifle after the Lead WC in Boulder, onsighting four 8b's and The Crew. It was originally 8c but then a hold break making most suggest an upgrade to 8c+. It should be noted that nobody has previously onsighted harder than 8b in Rifle, see more info as a comment.

The 159 cm tall Ramonet with arms hanging down to his knees is #3 in the IFSC world ranking and #2 in the 8a game. He won the world championship in 2007 and in 2011. (c) Toni Roy

The world's first 8c+ onsight was done by Patxi Usobiaga. In 2011, Adam Ondra has done seven 8c+ onsights.

 
 
8B+ FA by Nalle Hukkataival  (25) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNalle Hukkataival blogs about his FA of Circus Elephant Syndrome, 8B+ in Finland. "In my opinion 8B+ is HARD and I intend to keep my line with the 8C grade, which I still view as cutting-edge until something a notch above the current bouldering level gets climbed.

However, the way 8C has been shifting again lately, this grade may not correspond too well. Either way, Circus Elephant Syndrome is likely the hardest boulder problem in Finland and a world-class shoulder strength testpiece! I'm very psyched that I finally got it done!!!

 
 
9a by Magnus Midtbö  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbö has repeated Nordic Flower, 9a, in Flatanger. The route was established just over a month ago by Jorg Verhoeven.

"I’m not sure about the 9a grade, but on such a beautiful route I don’t thing the grade even matters. Without doubt the most beautiful route I have ever done!" More pictures at MagnusMidtboe.com, as well as comments on the FA on Verhoeven's blog.

 
 
8A+ FA by Rudi Moroder (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Rudi Moroder has done the First Ascent of Cold Front, 8A+ in Pontives. "Super boulder, really technical; definitely my hardest to date." In the combined junior game he is #3. Full story at Rudimoroder.it

 
 
8B's again by Guntram Jörg  Facebook
 

Guntram Jörg is on the run having done another two 8B's, Vecchia Leone and General Disarray in Brione. In the last month he has done five 8B's and a 8B+ (C) and he has jumped to #9 in the game.

 
 
5 star 8c+ FA by Gabriele Moroni  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabriele Moroni has made the FA of Bella Regis, 8c+ in Trento. "Best route i've ever bolted! perfect line! Its about 40moves long with a small rest before the last boulder, the resistence crux. The route follows a logical line on a big roof prow".

During the last year, Gabri has opened 10 routes 8a or harder mainly around Trento and he has still many projects to be done.

 
 
8B by Niccolò Ceria (18)  Facebook
 

Niccolò Ceria did give himself a nice 18 year birthday present by doing General disarray, 8B in Brione. In total, he has done nine 8B or harder and he did his first when he was 16 year old. He is #2 in the junior game. Video of the ascent.

 
 
8B+ (C+) by Benjamin Cossey  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBenjamin P. Cossey has done Dai Koyamada's 60 mover The Wheel of Life in Grampians giving it 8B+ although it was set up as an 8C+. During the last week, Ben has also done another two boulders in the Hollow Mountain Cave originally graded 8B.

In the beginning of the 00-ies, he put up several 8c's in Blue Mountains but lately he seems to have more focused on bouldering.

 
 
8a trad MP by Mayan Smith-Gobat  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMayan Smith-Gobat has done Salathe Wall in Yosemite which means 35 pitches up to 8a on trad gear. In 2009, she climbed an 8c in Ceüse but the last year she has been focused on Yosemite climbs.

"Every hand jam felt amazing and the climbing flowed – It was an incredible feeling reaching the top of the Headwall, free from the ground, with only a couple easy pitches to the top. A total sense of elation, release of tension and relief.

Then slowly the emptiness set in, the Salathe has been a huge part of my life for the last year, and there was almost a sense of sadness – kind of like saying good bye to a great friend and teacher." Mayanclimbs.com

 
 
8b+ by Monique Forestier (38)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMonique Forestier has done Tom et je ris 8b+ in Verdon which is a 60m tufa route. Prior to having a baby three years ago, she did four 8b+ in Blue Mountains.

Robbie Phillips says: "The whole aspect of this climb with it’s limited time to be climbed (between 7am – 2pm), massive walk in, ab in approach to start of route, hanging belay, mega long run-outs, technical nature of the climb and difficulty of working the route...". (c) her husband Simon Carter, "Certainly one of the most stunning lines I've ever seen..." Check out his new Coffe Table Book.

 
 
8B+/C by Dai Koyamada  Facebook
 

UKC reports that Dai Koyamada has opened another 8B+/C, Daedalus direct in Sustenpass.

 
 
8c by Conny Matthes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureConny Matthes has done her first 8c, Powerplay, in Frankenjura. "Long and hard work did it in spite of finger injury."

Conny has previously done two 8b+'s and she has had continuous progress since 2004 when she did her first 7b+.

 
 
Two 8a's onsights by Matilda Söderlund (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund has onsighted her first two 8a's, Rita del belvedere and Calabruix also graded 8a+ in Montgrony. The last weeks in Spain she has also onsigthed four 7c+.

The 19 year old and 175 cm tall swede is also a successful competition climber and she was #6 in the last Youth World Champion. In the last Euro Youth Cup she was #3.

 
 
8c+FA by Jonathan Siegrist  Facebook
 

Jonathan Siegrist blogs about his FA Shadowboxing, 8c+ in Rifle which was bolted long time ago by Nico Favresse. "It's the big boys version of 'Living in Fear' - no knee-pads, no valuable resting and a complete pallet of stylistic challenges."

 
 
Magic Wood slaughter by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra had a very productive weekend in Magic Wood, finishing off Practice of The Wild 8C, which was put up by Chris Sharma in 2004. He comments, "3 days in total, 1 day in terrible conditions, another one while being tired, very hard to say concerning the grade, easier than In Search of time lost, but harder than the rest of other 8B+'s."

The 18 year old also made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's three-weeks-old Dark Matter 8B+/C and Remembrance Of Things Past 8B+. He also did another four 8A+'s. It could be noted that during the weekend it was almost summer temperature!

 
 
8C FA by Daniel Woods  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCourtney Sanders reports that, "Today Daniel (Woods)climbed the FA of the old Muttertag Sit project, naming it Mystic Stylez. He is comparing it to the difficulty of Warrior Up, 8c in Lincoln Lake. It is difficult to grade because it is only a few moves, but the break down is a 2 move 8B into a one move 8A. For now it is going to stand at 8C." This was the 8th 8C by the 22 year old.

 
 
8c by Muriel Sarkany (37)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany has done her fourth 8c, Last soul sacrifice, in Gorges du Loup. She is now #2 in the 2011 routes ranking game. The 37-year-old has won 17 World Cup comps, has been the Overall winner five times and was the World Champion in 2003.

"I began climbing at 16 year old and 1 year later I was starting competitions. I found a lot of pleasure doing that, I won all the titles (world champion, European champion...). And now, I decided to stop competitions and just take pleasure in rocks ;-)"

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