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La Sportiva with a full clothing line 2015  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureLa Sportiva, the shoe brand the most top climbers use, will in 2015 present a full scale clothing line. Already four years ago, they entered in the apparel market but the climbing collection was born only this year and most of it is produced in Europe.

The warmest jacket for climbers fighting winter conditions is Tara Down Jacket and we were a little disappointed as it turned out to be rather thin. 8a had especially asked for their warmest jacket but it felt and looked like a normal city jacket with a hood. After spending hours in freezing conditions only wearing a T-shirt we are amazed and had to ask how this is possible.

- We use high quality goose down treated in a fair way respecting the high european standard. We are very careful to respect the environment and the eco-friendliness of the product. The down is very lightweight and used in different thickness depending on the areas, says Luca Mich. More info

Another great thing with the jacket is that there are six pockets out of one is so big so you can warm your shoes. There is also a pocket where you can compress the whole jacket before putting it in your back pack. Here you have all their clothing including the skimountaineering apparel.

Melissa Le Neve 8c+ portrait  Facebook

Jacopo Larcher discovers crack and trad climbing  Facebook

The rediscovery of climbing: a new game. from LJ on Vimeo.

The four pillars in Lofoten - Norway  Facebook

Fire Pillaren: Four Pillars of Lofoten from Hidden Valley Films on Vimeo.

Woods does Robinson's Lucid Dreaming 8C in the night  Facebook

Daniel Woods answer "your" questions II  Facebook

Daniel Woods talks about flexibility, Gioia, Hubble, female bouldering and much more always with a smile :)

Marietta Uhden 1968 - 2014  (8) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMarietta Uhden has passed away 46 years old. She started climbing at the age of 21, and ten years later she was one of the world's leading climbers. In 2001 she made the FA of Sonne im Herzen 11- in Jachenau which today corresponds to 8c+. This is the first and only 8c+ which has been put up by a woman. In her 8a scorecard she put it up as an 8c. Later she told 8a that we should give more credit for the old school grades in the news.

Nicholas Mailänder has written an obituary including pictures from her Peter Nauman, her trainer and friend (and later husband). Marietta was also the mother of Antonia (5). A memorial meeting for Marie will be held coming Friday at the Bad Tölz climbing hall.

Matilda Söderlund goes for German Power  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund, possibly the best female onsight climber in the world in 2012 when she also finished #6 in the world championship, goes all in 2015. As a tall female climber (177 cm), more than 10 cm taller compared to most female top climbers, her focus is to build up more body strength and her new physical trainer is Dr. 8a, Björn Alber.

- Coming back from back and finger injuries, I feel more motivated than ever and I am looking forward to 2015. I will do the bigger comps but also focus on rock climbing outdoors. Matilda's Facebook Last month she visited Gimme Kraft for some test and getting some more physical exercises and here is the video.

Christian Core (40) reclimbs Raptor 8b (+)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChristian Core, boulder world champion in 2003, has reclimbed his Raptor in Varazze after a hold broke adding "Survives" to the name and possibly a + to the 8B grade. Previously this year Christian put up some more 8B's in Varazze, more info.

"The Raptor line is always beautiful, but now I think is better because it's all hard, before the breaking holds the first section was tiring but not hard but now that is harder the intensity is same for all the line. Super cool boulder. About the grade I think it's half grade harder than before, but it's not important, I wait other opinions first and after we update the guide if necessary."

In 2008, Christian put up Gioia also in Varazze suggesting 8C which now is considered as the only 8C+ repeated boulder in the world. Upgrading boulders are very rare and nobody will be surprised if it turns out that his latest is actually a hard 8B+. Here is the beautiful video.

Daniel Woods answer "your" questions  Facebook

Daniel Woods talks training, mental struggle, grades and Rocklands and Colorado are his favourite places to climb.

Drytooling crag in Italy  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanetmountain reports about a new bolted dry tooling crag at Monte Dolada located near to normal sport routes. Some of the routes might be climbed without ice axes.

This might be controversial for some as the ice axes will leave mark on the rock and possible destroy future sport climbing possibilities including possible hard core routes.

8a think it is nice that different climbing disciplines can share the mountains together. Of course it would not be good if you started to climb with ice axes on established routes on Kalymnos or Oliana etc. On new terrain, it is important to try to see which type of climbing the rock is best suited for and also follow traditions. (c) Luca Facco

Sasha Digiulian at Gimme Kraft  Facebook

Sasha Digiulian back for more Kraft! from cafekraft on Vimeo.

First 8c for Mina Markovic and 8a+ onsights  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Markovic, who has Top-2 in the Lead World Cup for five straight years including winning two years, has done her first 8c Fish Eye in Oliana, onsighted two 8a+ and done two 8b's second go. (A couple of more world class ascents and Mina is in Top-10 climber of 2014.)

"I decided to spend some time outdoor after comps. It is nice to spend time outside, on the rock and with good company. I definitely enjoy it a waaaay more than just rest at home... currently I am in Oilana, staying maybe just until the end of this week or maybe until another one (it is not on me)... because i am not use to spend a lot of time on the rock, this is more habituation and enjoying trip for me, but I love it.(c) Luka Fonda

David Powell on his fall trip in the Ozark mountains  Facebook

The List (a bouldering film) from Figurehead Media House on Vimeo.

David Firnenburg in Font  Facebook

Jimmy Webb warms up  Facebook

Sendtrain Part I: Jimmy Webbs warm up from Kletterzentrum TG on Vimeo.

Legends only behind the scene  Facebook

Fabela 8c+ by Yuka Kubayashi  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureYuka Kubayashi, who during the last five WCs where Top-10, has done her first 8c+ Fabela in Santa Linya. (c) Eddie Gianneloni

7C by Kylie Cullen (9) - Interview coming up  Facebook

Massive personal down gradings in Albarracin  Facebook

Martin Mobråten, one of the greatest climber in Norway, has been in Albarracin and in his blog he says he need to comment the grades. In general, he says that the grades in Albarracin is one grade wrong. In total, Martin did 17 boulders 8A and harder out of which he gave a personal down grade for 14 boulders up to two grades. It should be noted that, in comparison, Albarracin is one of the boulder areas in the world where you find most personal grades in the 8a database. Maybe, the grades will become more equal to the Fontainebleau standard, once chalk will not be allowed :)

Out of Sight II - Lifestyle & Grades  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNeil Hart presents Out of Sight 2 where we follows Hukkataival, Godoffe, Shiraishi, Hojer, Webb, Guillaume and some more world class climbers in Fontainebleau. In short it is mixture of the lifestyle of bouldering with nice interesting interviews and nice easy problems combined with the hardest grades being done.

You get a very nice positive feeling wanting to go to the forest outside Paris bouldering and talking to all of the guys, especially with legend Jacky Godoffe. One of the best bouldering videos I have ever seen. Buy it for Euro 10 or get both films for Euro 17.

Train with soft shoes and perform with stiffer ones  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIt is a well known fact that the recommendation for the beginner is to get the stiffest shoe possible. The reason for this is that it is very tiring to stand on small edges with big sized shoes and that the beginners seldom put the shoes high up just on friction.

What is more surprising is that also more advanced climbers and some top athletes prefers stiff shoes. The best explanation is probably that once wearing a stiff shoe, you do not build up the muscle strength in the feet to be comfortable with a softer one.

At the same time, Adam Ondra challeng himself with soft shoes and his 9a and harder #100, which was a vertical 25 meter route, he actually used one of the softest shoes on the market, the Speedster.

It might be a good idea to start training with a very soft shoe for a month to build up more strength which probably will change your preferences a bit. In theory, the most advanced climbers stand higher up with their feet and also using smaller edges or just friction. Further more, while you are onsighting and flashing and do not have the same amount of time for exact precision, it might be better to go for the softer one.

It should also be mentioned that the smaller the size, the stiffer the shoes get, meaning that especially the kids, climbing mainly indoor, should opt for the softest shoes available to get the best training. If you are 80+ kilos with Goofy size shoes, you can forgot what you just read and just go for the stiffest shoes possible :)

Interview with Adam Ondra after his 100th 9a  (21) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureHere is the 100 * 9a in-depth interview from Planetmountain with some interesting answers from Adam. First 8a interview from when Adam was eleven years old. (c) Petr Pavlicek

- Regarding the grading I have always tried to be honest and if I felt that certain routes deserve a downgrade, I've suggested that. But I have never downgraded a route in order to appear more "brave and humble". Honesty is key.

- This may sound stupid, but I am still weak. I can still improve my raw power. At the same time, with each level of power, your efficient technique is different. Every time you get stronger, you need to learn to climb again.

Adam also talks about Hubble which he previously has said is possibly the world's first 9a. Ben Moon gets much credit as in 1990, the maximum boulder grade was 8A+ and Hubble could be considered a 8B+ boulder. Mr 100, says that the first considered 8B+, Radja, was put up in 1996. "...Ben Moon was ahead of his time by a huge margin!

IFSC explains why they sent out BMI notifications  (15) Facebook

During the world championship in Gijon, IFSC measured the length and weight of all athletes to calculate the BMI. Last month, IFSC did send out a notification to all male below BMI 17 and female below BMI 18 as well as to their federations. In order to get the IFSC competition license 2015, the athletes and the federations need to return the letter including a signature from a doctor in charge. Already five years ago, 8a proposed that IFSC should start follow up the athletes health based on BMI tests and previously Sweden and Austria are using the same BMI figures. We asked IFSC to get some info of their BMI notifications and here is what they answered.

"In accordance with the IOC, the IFSC encourages and supports the “achievement and maintenance of an ideal body weight and physique” of the Athletes. Therefore, the IFSC Medical Commission has been monitoring the athletes’ health since many years, in close cooperation of the IFSC Athletes’ Commission. Over almost a decade, tests have been run, at the international and national level, in and out of competition. Gijon was just the last episode of this long process, still running.

Studies have been conducted as well over the years, in cooperation with NFs and individual doctors. BMI measurement is one of the tools used and parameters have been adapted to the climbing scenario, as a result of this work. On the basis of the collected data, the IFSC is working with National Federations in order to protect the athletes’ health.

However, this is a work in progress that has many implications that cannot be ignored, firstly individual privacy, and is part of a wider action leading to a better “knowledge and practice of sport nutrition” for Athletes, coaches and NFs."

100th (120) 9a and harder by Adam Ondra  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has done Made in Poland in Podzamcze. "Oh yeees,100th 9a and harder, took me 8 years to do them. This one was a special climb, completely vertical pocket climbing with super slippery footholds, especially if it is as cold as today! 3rd go, would have been second go if drone crash hadn't happened next to me on my second go!"

In fact, as Adam Ondra has given more personal down grades than any top climber, he could have said he had done around 120 at least. The first he did when he was 13 years old. The runner up on this exclusive list are Ramonet and Dani Andrada with around 40 and Chris Sharma with some 35. Photo by © Petr Pavlicek

Flexible ranking - Challenge your friends  Facebook

The webaster has made a demo for flexible ranking where you can select any style time period and age etc. Here is the Top-10 best onsight climbers on French routes. Interesting is if you do a similar search for Spain, the #10 guy 12 530, suggesting that it is easier to onsight harder in Spain.

13550 Adam Ondra
12850 Patxi Usobiaga
12600 Mathieu Bouyoud
12550 Tomáš Mrázek
12510 Klemen Becan
12300 David Graham
12300 Charlotte Durif
12150 Pagnoux Romain
12150 Magnus Midtbø
12108 Cris Zehani

One good possibility with the flexible rankings that you can challenge your friends being on a climbing trip or check who has the best score overall at your home crag. The options are endless.

Joe Kinder: 30 Days in Norway  Facebook

Joe Kinder: 30 Days in Norway from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Scorecard Challenges instead of IFSC Lead Cups in Sweden 2015  (9) Facebook

Imagine being challenged of 10 - 30 routes between 6a and 8b in a gym instead of just qualify on two flash routes. By counting your four best results, based on normal 8a scorecard points and also points for clips, the competition also becomes a personal challenge where you can go for personal records. If you make five clips out of ten, you get 50 % compared to topping out and eight clips gives 80 % etc. With this format, no referees or belayers are needed! The competition just becomes a normal day challenging yourself at the crags.

Here is an example of a possible result list which makes it much more interesting to follow and which will also help coaches to follow up their athletes. The Top-4 routes are divided by four. Like in the 8a scorecard: 8a = 1 000, 7a = 700, 6a = 400

1. Miss X 912 points: 8a (1 000) 7c (900), 8a+:#8 (840) 8c:#7 (910)
2. Mrs Y 765 points: 7b (800) 8a:#7 (700) 7a+ (750) 7c:#9 (810)
3. Mr Z 590 points: 6c (600) 8a:#6 (600) 7b:#8 (640) 8c:#4 (520)

The Competition/Challenge can be run on new or old routes and onsight and flash bonuses could be given. This is how the qualification in the Lead challenge, in Sweden, will be run in 2015. The new format, which any gym in the world can use, was introduced because of continuously lower interest from the gyms and participants for the old IFSC format.

All the participants will just be given a scorecard which later will be filled in on an excel sheet or possibly even a new 8a scorecard challenge page. The time frame could be three hours to one month or more. This system could also be used for outdoor climbing festivals. Please feel free to give feedback.

Tradclimbing in Céüse  Facebook

Adjustable hang boards  Facebook

Original hueco board and bäm! board from bam climbing on Vimeo.

La Sportiva Legends only 2014 summary  (11) Facebook

McColl says speed climbing could be counter productive  Facebook

Interesting to hear Sean McColl saying that it could be counter productive to train Speed climbing as you get heavier legs.

- Speed climbing is turning more towards into athleticism, like sprinting. Their legs are really strong, they are really big. If I start to gain muscles in my legs, it will probably effect my bouldering and lead.

Sean McColl is the only World Cup athlete who frequently has done also Speed WC events. Any body can understand that based on Sean's observation, it is not a good idea by IFSC to say that the only Olympic gold you could win, is the Combined. If the athletes would optimise for winning the Combined gold, meaning also to train Speed, the performance in especially Lead would be poorer.

The 8a idea for the Olympics is to turn the format into DWS on like 8b+/8a+ routes on 10 meter. The DWS routes could start with 7a climbing in order to also include more boulder and speed skills.

Fontainebleau and Kruder, #2 in world champion 2014  Facebook

La Sportiva Genius: 1 + 1 = 3  (13) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSome years ago, La Sportiva invented the No Edge meaning that the sole goes around the toe. By the round look, it seems the No Edge sole gives less support once standing with straight legs on a slab on a micro 90 degree sharp edge, compared to a brand new normal shoe. For the other 99 % of holds and situations, it seems that the No Edge sole is equal or better compared to a normal shoe.

Their previous No Edge shoes have been pretty extreme but know La Sportiva present Genius which is more like in between, taking the best from the two different types of shoes. In practice, this means that Genius feels like a normal high prestanda shoe with the No Edge technology.

Compared to their last No Edge shoe, Futura, Genius feels a bit stiffer and the heal is a bit more baggy and more optimised for heal-hooking. Further more, it has laces which is located a bit to the side and maybe this is the reason why the shoe feels a bit curved making it easier to turn your foot as you are starting to knee-drop. Genius also has the patented P3 and like with all La Sportiva shoes, you can use a tight size but even so it feels comfortable. Overall it feels like the best ever high performance shoe by La Sportiva and here is what Pietro Dal Pra, who has been the developer creating the No Edge technology, says:

- It seems that the No Edge gives you the chance to climb in a much more fluent and natural way. That's why the No Edge shoes are super for bouldering and onsight climbing, because the shoe adapts and sticks to the wall even if you are very fast and not totally precise, and even with less weight on it. (Adam Ondra has climbed his two 9a onsights with Speedster, No Edge, and all his other hard onsight in the last two years are with No Edge).

Check the video with Pietro Dal Pra explaining about the new Genius shoe during the last Friedrichshafen fair.

Switzerland 2014 • A Taste of Magic Wood  Facebook

Switzerland 2014 • A Taste of Magic Wood from Eliot Stephens on Vimeo.

IFSC have sent out BMI notifications to WC athletes  (28) Facebook

During the Lead World Championship in Gijon, IFSC measured the weight and height of all the athletes in order to measure the BMI. Now, IFSC have sent a personal warning to all athletes, below what it seems, BMI 18 for the female and 17 for the male, which also their federation received. The federations have been told that they must confirm that they received the BMI warning in order to get a competition license 2015.

Already six years ago, 8a started to discuss the subject and suggested that IFSC should follow up that some climbers were to skinny based on BMI 17. Independent wrote an article based on this. Austria demands since many years BMI 17 for male and 18 for female in order to compete in the WCs. Here are some examples to just score below 17.
180 cm = 54 kg
170 cm = 48 kg
160 cm = 43 kg

Escalando Fronteras: Climbing Helps At-Risk Youth  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureEscalando Fronteras - Climbing Borders is a program climbing with youth to help prevent gang violence and drug abuse. Ambassadors include Lynn Hill, Dani Andrada, Paige Claassen, Jimmy Webb, James Pearson, and many more incredible role models in the community. Renan Ozturk has donated his painting "Center of the Universe" for printed T-Shirts that will be sent to $50 supporters of the IndieGoGo campaign to cuild a small community climbing gym for the at-risk youth. Donate now!

Today Mashable posted an interview:

"Escalando Fronteras started a crowdfunding drive on Monday in hopes of raising $30,000 to establish a permanent youth center in Monterrey centered around climbing. The goal is to expand the circle of at-risk kids they work with from 100 to 1,000. In addition to climbing facilities, they see the space as a center for kids to get tutoring, job training and mentorship."

Only two Boulder WCs in Europe in 2015  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureThere will be 6 Bouldering WCs in 2015 which can be compared to 8 the last two years. The number of planned events in Europe is only two in bouldering which is the lowest number ever since the Boulder World Cup started in 1999.

The number of Lead WCs in 2015 is seven out of which six in Europe which gives the strongest Euro concentration for many years. In 2014, there were four Lead WCs in Asia and in 2015, there will be only one.

Other extreame stats are that all three Euro Lead Youth Cups will be held in Austria which can be compared to just one event in 2014, also in Austria.

In 2015, there will be a European Championship between 14-16/5 and the Youth World Championship will start 28/6 in Arco. So all in all, it seems to be a very good year especially for the European senior and Juniors focusing in Lead.

Sachi Amma does Biographie 9a+  Facebook

Bouldering on the canarien islands  Facebook

New regulations/law in Albarracín = No chalk  (10) Facebook

Just some few days ago, the new regulations for climbing in Albarracín were published in the B.O.A., which is the Official Bulletin for such autonomous region. These are the main points which everybody should strictly follow if you do not want to get fined and/or make things worse:

1. Sport climbing requiring non-removable or removable protection is forbidden.

2. Bouldering is allowed just on the indicated areas. However, within these areas climbing is forbidden on boulders which can be seen from the road from Albarracín to Donarque, as well as in a 30 metre radius around the cave paintings.

3. Climbing is restricted from an hour before sunrise and an hour after sunset.

4. Magnesium, tick-marks and any other product that leaves marks on the rock surface is prohibited.

The Passion 2 - Trailer  Facebook

The Passion Part 2 - Trailer! from 45degrees on Vimeo.

Compressions sleeves could explain "market" grades  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIf it turns out to be true that the Vertic Sleeves will increase the climbers blood circulation, as the compression helps the veins to get rid of the old used blood faster, we just might have to start down grading the endurance test-pieces.

The grading scale tries to measure and compare different styles of climbing and if it turns out that everyone can climb one grade harder on just long overhanging routes by bying a pair, all these routes must be down graded. Stefano Ghisolfi is using the compression sleeves in Red River Gorge and he has since marked all route as "Soft".

"They are not magic, you cannot climb a grade harder if you wear them, but they can help. The positive thing is that you can feel the forearm, like Kinesiotape, when you are climbing, and they are very good in cold days. (c) Andrea Cossu

Probably, the sleeves has just a minor effect, a very long way from one grade difference, but if it turns out that they have any positive impact at all, some of softest routes need to be down graded.

Hopefully, this theoretical example can also help climbers to understand how the grades works in practice. Climbers are consumers of grades and we set them in a similar way as the market sets the price based on supply and demand. 8a will test the sleeves and make a review.

Ondra the superior La Sportiva Legend  (22) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIn a great show with great problems in the La Sportiva Legends only, Adam Ondra took a comfortable victory by topping out all five problems in six attempts. Runner up Alex Megos did two as also Jan Hojer on the third place.

The format was different like a high jump competition whith a maximum Three attempts and only the Top-3 guys qualified to the fifth and last Boulder. The exact scoring was shown on the screen all the time including the ranking which made it super easy to follow. Here you have the video

Training sessions for the Legends  Facebook

Everyting is set for the Legends  Facebook

Alex Megos gives us our thoughts after the training session on thursday.
"The problems are cool. Comp style, so balance stuff and volumes and jumps. Anything can happen. I really have no idea. Everybody looked strong yesterday. It's just about having good skin and getting lucky to put everything together..."

The route setting seems to have been perfect (video) and Stefan Ekelund confirms what Alex says and if he has to pick the winner, he goes for Adam Ondra. The live streaming starts at 20.00 and it will be shown directely at the 8a first page.

Camargo and Robinson bouldering lifestyle in Sao Paulo  Facebook

The anchor rock drops to the ground  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanetmountain reports of the terrible accidents where Stefan Rass fell 25 metres to the ground as the chunk of rock where the anchor had been placed come loose. It has been said that this is the seventh accident only this year in San Vito Lo Capo in Italy. Stefan is currently in an induced coma in Salzburg and including in the article is an appeal for donations to the family and for checking routes and maintenance.

La Sportiva Legends only 2014  (9) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureFor the fourth year in a row, Klättercentret in Stockholm presents their La Sportiva Legends and this time with maybe the best ever line up in a boulder comp. Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, Jernej Kruder, Adam Ondra, Jan Hojer and Alex Megos did spend thursday by practicing five boulders between 8A+ and 8B+. Among the route setters are Kilian Fishhuber and Sean McColl. Live streaming starts on saturday at 20.00. Picture by Kilian Fischhuber

8a - Spread throughout the world  Facebook

Here are some interesting traffic stats from the last month. In comparison, all other major websites get their traffic from at least 65 % from their country of origin. Compared to three years ago, the figures are almost identical. We are looking for more country specific editors and translators. Just send a mail.

13 % USA
12 % Germany
10 % Spain
07 % Italy
05 % Austria, Sweden, France
04 % Switzerland, Poland, UK

1. Madrid 10 979
2. Vienna 10 630
3. Stockholm 7 885
4. Munich 7 623
5. Barcelona 6 874, 6. Innsbruck 5 919, 7. Gothenburg 5 238, 8. Milan 5 102, 9. Prague 4 901. 10. London 4 667

9a by Alexander Gerzha (20)  (3) Facebook

Dima Sharafutdinov gives us the story that Alexander Gerzha, who he has been training since 2010, has done Daniel Jung's Jungle Speed, 9a in Siurana. Alexander who previously has done 8c+ spent ten days before he did his first 9a.

8C by Dai Koyamada again  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada blogs about his repeat of Marin Keller's Der mit dem fels tanzt at Chironico, which actually took Martin more than 100 sessions over three years to execute. Dai who is a contender for having the most impressive boulder tick list in the world needed four days for confirming the 8C. (c) Ikuko Serata

8B+ (C) by Carlo Traversi  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has made his fourth 8C in Magic Wood in just two weeks, Mystic Stylez giving it a personal grade of 8B+. In the picture you can see that he had to place a jacket on the top as it just started to rain.

"Just before the storm. Really nice to finish this thing off before leaving Magic Wood. Almost sent first day and thought it could be 8B, but 3 days of falling on the same move and it makes sense as 8B+. Strangely powerful climbing."

Carlo is #4 in the world ranking game but without all his personal grades, he would have been #2.

9a by Daniel Jung again  (4) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Jung has done his seventh 9a, The Elder Statesman in Frankenjura. "Markus Bock did the first ascent in 2011 and graded it 11/11+ (9a/+), so it is one of the three hardest routes in Germany. It is located in a very beautiful area and I enjoyed a lot to spend some time there." More info at his blog.

Ashima (11) is getting close on Southern Smoke, 8c+  (9) Facebook

Yesterday, Ashima Shiraishi, added Ultra Perm, 8b to her impressive tick list in Red River Gorge. The big news is however, that she did look very good on Southern Smoke, 8c+ and she is 11-years-old.

8C with wet hands by Carlo Traversi  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has repeated Chris Sharma's Practice of the Wild, 8C in very bad conditions.

"A perfect, pure, hard line. Sloping holds in a roof. One of my all time favorites. The first few holds were still wet, so I basically had to climb it with wet hands. Feeling unbelievably strong and focused right now. Ready for more."

Four days ago he did another 8C and he has more or less been on a constant progress for eight years and now he is #4 in the ranking game. Today he also come very close on two 8B+ and tomorrow he is trying Entlinge with Paul Robinson.

8b+ flash by Ashima Shiraishi (11)  (22) Facebook

The 11-year-old Ashima Shiraishi has flashed Omaha Beach, 8b+ in Red River Gorge. It can actually be called a semi-onsight as she did not get any running beta before she started the massive overhanging 30 m long route. The previous day she also did God's Own Stone, 8b (+).

Ashima has previously done the fastest ascent of an 8B boulder as well as flashed one 8A+. Overall, Ashima is the female who has the most impressive tick list in the world 2012. Climbing is unique :)

8C by Carlo Traversi  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has done his second 8C, In Search of Time Lost in Magic Woods which was put up bt Daniel Woods. (c) Mary Mecklenburg

"Fell off the last move probably 20 times from the start. Started to become a bit of a mental battle. Pulled through today and couldn't be more psyched. Feeling fit and motivated. This one feels lower end for the 8C grade, but I don't have enough experience with the grade to know for sure. Roofs aren't really my style and I'm happy to see myself progress within the realm."

Tomorrow he probably will try Mystic Stylez, 8B+ and as soon as it dries out, Practice Of The Wild, 8C. The plan is to stay in Magic until November and then move down to Ticino for a month. After that, Carlo is ready for trying the rope either in Spain or in the US.

8A by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  Facebook

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has had three nice days in Joe's Valley where she has done three "Soft" 7C+ and Ghost of War 8A. In the last Boulder WC in 2012, Mina was #15.

8b+ by Mikel Linacisoro (12)  Facebook

Mikel Linacisoro has done his first 8b+, Ixeia in Rodellar. Two weeks ago, the 168 cm 12 year old onsighted Solidarios, 8a in Arotz which was his third of the grade.

9a by Acheng in Yangshuo  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureKai Mu reports that Weicheng "Acheng" Xie has made the 2nd ascent of Red Point Meal, 9a in Leipi Shan crag, Yangshuo after several months of practice. The route was bolted by Chris Sharma and the FA was done by Qinghua Wang. "Acheng" was the first Chinese to do 8b+ and his previous personal best was 8c.

3 hr 8b OS by Gaz Parry (39)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureGareth Parry has onsighted the 75 m Morgan Adam est une Andalouse, 8b in the Sikati Cave on Kalymnos and it took him three hours and then another 45 minutes to clean all the drawers. (c) Vladimir Arnaoudov and here is a Kalymnos article by him also.

"My best climbing experience ever on Kalymnos even if the mega drag stepping up over the last bulge was almost the crux. The rock is just perfect all the way. The second extension is maybe just 8a after a very good rest, where I pulled the rope and more quickdraws.

I sort of agree what 8a said about giving multi-pitches an overall grade based on the full experience and if so 8b is OK."

Gaz has just moved back to UK from Spain and the next thing to do is to set some boulder comps and to train the National Team. The next year he hopes to do some Boulder World Cups again.

8c by Matilda Söderlund  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund has done her second 8c, Prime time to shine in Clear Creek Canyon. "Such a fun and cool route". Last week she flashed Kelly Traverse, 7C (+) in Horsetooth.

The 20 year old who was #6 in the World Championship has earlier this year onsighted three 8b's and flashed two 8b+'. Photo by D Scott Clark Here is a video when Jonathan Siegrist does the 8c.

9a/+ and 8c+/9a by Chris Sharma  (17) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaila Ojeda reports that Chris Sharma has done another two hard core routes in Margalef, La Tierra Negra 9a/9a+ and La Nevera Severa 8c+/9a. "The weather is getting better and the climbing season started!!!!!" Chris is the living legend who has been on the cutting edge for half his life, 15.5 years. (c) Boone Speed

9a (+) by Manuel Brunn  Facebook

Triplex-sports reports that Manuel Brunn has done the first repeat of The Elder Statesman in Frankenjura which was set up by Markus Bock as an 9a/+. Manuel has previously done 8c+ routes and also an 8C boulder, Montecore.

Niccolò Ceria (19) does Entlinge, 8B+ (C)  Facebook

Niccolò Ceria has done the six mover Entlinge in Murgtal giving it a personal grade of 8B/+. "Amazing, two days of work. physical moves and funny toe hooks. Harder than every 8Bs I've done..8B/B+ I think.".

It was set up by Fred Nicole in 2005 as a hard 8C based on the amount of time he had to invest. Last year Daniel Woods flashed it suggesting 8B+.

8B+ by Paul Robinson  (1) Facebook

Paul Robinson has done the third ascent of Daniel Woods' American Gangster, 8B+ in Zillertal.

"Perfect boulder. Jug start, jug finish with some very cool moves in between. Became a huge struggle for me after falling from the lip multiple times and having to come back again, feeling stressed walking up to the start of a boulder is never fun but fortunately climbed it in machine mode today and now the stress has risen!

8B+'s by Carlo Traversi  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has done two 8B+ at Magic Wood. First- Remembrance Of Things Past, and the next day, New Base Line (with a proper sit start), and he goes to the #6 spot in the game.

"Wanted to climb this line for a long time. Started with a proper sit start one hold lower than the original start. Seemed like the most obvious start position to me, even though it adds a bit of difficulty.

8b+ MP in progress by Stefan Glowacz (47)  (8) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRedchili reports that Stefan Glowacz has over four days redpointed the four pitches (7a+, 8b+, 8b+ and 7c+) of his Golden Shadow MP project in Verdon which he bolted about eight years ago with Christian Schlesener. In 1993, Stefan was #2 in the world champion and this year he won the prestigious Aquafil Climbing Ambassador award at Arco. (c) Klaus Fengler

Is there any multi-pitch climber who can explain the different style and ethics between doing all pitches on one push, which is most common, and doing them on different days?

8a+ OS by Melissa Le Nevé  (3) Facebook

Melissa Le Nevé who was probably the best female climber in TNF Kalymnos Festival Pro comp, has onsighted Cosi fan Tutte L1, 8a+ in Rodellar. The day before she also onsighted two 8a's.

9a FA by Gerome Pouvreau  Facebook

Gerome Pouvreau blogs about his 9a FA, Moksha in Pic St Loup which was his 8th 9a and harder. During the same day, he also flashed Arahanta, 8b+/c. In 2005, he was #3 in the Boulder World Champion and in 2001, he was the Lead World Champion.

9a by Seb Bouin  Facebook

Bealplanet reports that Seb Bouin has done TTT, 9a in wet conditions!

STONELICK: Matty Hong  Facebook

9a by Ben Harnden  (1) Facebook

Accoring a forum post on Squamishclimbing, Ben Harnden has made the third ascent of Chris Sharma's Dreamcatcher, 9a in Squamish.

Bouldering is Sexy  Facebook

Bouldering is Sexy from Revolution Climbing on Vimeo.

8c+ by David Firnenburg (17)  Facebook

David Firnenburg has done Master of Universe, 8c+ in Frankenjura. "8a traverse, then rest point, followed by powerful moves through a roof with crux at the edge. New route by Markus Bock. You'd better call it Masters of the wasp attacks ;) Attention: wasps' nest in the run-out!" The 17 year old did his first 9a last year and his first 8c+ in 2010.

8B+ by Florian Schmalzl and Paul Robinson  (4) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureFlorian Schmalzl has done his third 8B+ in 2012, Anam Cara in Silvretta which is a four mover which was set up by Bernd Zangerl as an 8C+.

TodayPaul Robinson took it down in just one hour saying that for him it might be even hard 8B, see picture. He also treid it one day, one year ago.

8a+ OS by Chelsea Rude  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureChelsea Rude has done her first 8a+ onsight, Pushin' Up Daisies in ed River Gorge. Two weeks ago, Chelsea was #18 in the Atlanta WC and last year she was #11 in Vail, which beside Sasha Digulian, is the best WC result for an American female for many years. More pics at her website.

Fourth 8B by Michael O'Rourke (18)  Facebook

Michael O'Rourke has done his second 8B in two weeks, the FA of Sea of Green in RMNP. "Awesome problem on the other side of the river shown to me by DG. Crux revolves around a a very wide pinch on a roof and moving to a sharp edge.

First 8c+ by Aleksandra Taistra  (1) Facebook

Aleksandra Taistra has done her first 8c+, Cosi fan tutte in Rodellar with a three meter finishing slab crux.

Brian Antheunisse describes it, "The dream route. 50 meters of overhung tufas over blue water, it doesn't get better than this. This is why I trained for months. This is why I came to Spain. This is why I climb.

First 8B+ by Toshi Takeuchi  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi has done his first 8B+, Minerva in Mizugaki. "Super Cool and sharp! So hard for me. Took 5 days. Legends Tokio Muroi's great problem. So props to Tokio did FA this problem. Thank you, Fook you, I love you! 2nd Ascent."

Three 8B's by Niccolò Ceria (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolò Ceria has during the last week done thre 8B's out of which one is Fred Nicole's classic Radja in Branson which for a long time was considered the first 8B+ in the world. Some years ago a new easier start sequnce was found which also the 18 year old, who is #11 in th ranking game, used.

9a by Dave Graham  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham has done Moonshine, 9a in Wild Iris and he is #3 in the Combined Ranking Game which he has been more or less since 8a started in 2000.

"Oh man, feels good to climb on a rope again. Sick Frankejura-eque climbing on bad spaced pockets! No time to chalk, just a couple chances to clip, this route is an awesome resistance climb. Got lucky with the temps on the last day. 5 tries in two days. Nice route BJ!!!! there will be a video from our weekend of climbing coming up soon at

8b+ by Francisco "Novato" Marin (60)  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureEdu Marin, who won a World Cup event in 2006, gives us the story about his father Francisco having done Geminis, 8b+ in Rodellar. Novato started to trad climb as a teenager and as his sons begun climbing he switched to sport climbing. Being 52 he did his first 8a and since than he has had steady progress in spite of only climbing outdoors. (c) Dario Rodriguez - Desnivel

Two 8b's by Tito Traversa (11)  (4) Facebook

Tito Traversa has done two 8b's on the same day in Tetto di Sarre, Kabuki 2000 and the chipped Parsifal. The 11 year old did his first 8b+ when he was 10.

8c+/9a FA by Dave MacLeod  Facebook

Dave MacLeod blogs about having done the FA of Fight the Feeling, 8c+/9a which adds a boulder to Ring of Steall.

"If Ring of Steall holds it's 8c+ grade then maybe it will end up as 9a. If not then it would be 8c+. It's certainly much harder for me personally than A' Muerte (9a) that I did a few years ago, but it's always hard to tell if one route just suits you more than another."

Daniel Woods best sport day ever  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has had a great productive day in Wild Iris, "My best day of sport climbing with friends and inspiring routes." His ticklist includes Genetic drifter 8c+ (c) and a flash of Rodeo Free Europeans, 8b+. He also did the the first repeat of Chris Sharma's Throwin the Houlihan low 8c, from 1998.

"The original line starts out bridged on a rock. The low boulder problem was a project tried by many climbers. It adds in a 3 move 7C+ into the start of the Houlihan. To me this is the logical way to climb the Houlihan.

9a+ FA by Iker Pou  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIker Pou reports that he has done the FA of Celedon, 9a+ at Ilarduia which is a 42m line he bolted four years ago. For a long time he thought the route was too hard but in the end he was able to do it, "one of the the most beautiful routes [he] has ever bolted".

Iker is one of the most impressive all-arounders in the world and earlier this summer he opened a 16 pitch 8b on Baffin Island together with his brother Eneko, Ben Lepesant, and Hansjörg Auer. (c) Victor Montilla

Another 8c for Sarah Seeger  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSarah Seeger reports that she has repeated Markus Bock's Cringer, 8c in Frankenjura, "One of the best routes I have ever done! When I first saw it, I was simply amazed about the 30 meters of rock..." (c) Rici Miller More info and pics at Marmot where Sarah works with PR. She has previously done three 8c's and one 8A+.

Two 8c by Alfons Dornauer (18)  Facebook

Alfons Dornauer has done two 8c's, Almrausch in Rufan and Linke Generation in Jochberg. The 18 year old who did his first two 8c's and who has boulderd 8B in #6 in the Junior Combined Game.

Joey Kinder climbs 'Bunda Ju Fora', 9a  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJoey Kinder has sent his fifth 9a, Bunda Ja Fora in Acephale. "Lotta tries, lotta emotion, and a lot of learning. Never knew when or if I would do it. One of the happiest climbing moments I have had. First person to climb it after the broken hold, which upped the ante significantly and made an entirely new crux and added to the existing crux to create an 18 move monster of complete power-resistance. Every go felt different. Every hold and move took complete concentration and consideration to execute. Long 8b boulder to 8a/+ route with a techy face exit. Stressful as HELL! I DID IT!!!! WEEEEEEEEEEHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

9a and 8C for Daniel Woods  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureCourtney Sanders reports that her husband Daniel Woods has done Moonshie, 9a in Wild Iris as well as, White Noise, 8C in the Wild Basin sector of RMNP. "Moonshine is a short bouldery power endurance line which contains monos, dishes, and small pockets."

Daniel (23) has been one of the leading climbers in the world for seven years and during 2012, he is #2 in the 8a combined ranking game after Adam Ondra.

Daniel describes Wild Noise as, "24 moves long, compression style climbing on vertical sloping rails, 8B+ into an established 7C+ top out.

Mayr and Auer opens 750 m 8b+ trad  (7) Facebook

La Sportiva reports that Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr has done the FA of the 750 m L'ultimo dei paracadutisti on the south face of Marmolada completely free of bolts. The line was originally established in 1988 as an aid climb and it has never been reported to have been repeated before.

It should be noted that when it comes to trad climbing, 8b+ is the cutting edge and there are only a few 8c's and a couple 8c+ reported to have been done.

8c by Dorothea Karalus  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDorothea Karalus reports with pictures that she has done her first 8c, Headcrash in Frankenjura. Her previous personal best was 8b but she has also done that grade in bouldering as well as some 34 8A's and harder.

Overcoming Injury to First 8B+ for David Wetmore  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Wetmore has done his first 8B+ with Big Worm at Mount Evans, Colorado.
I climbed on this boulder 7 years ago during a school vacation and became immediately infatuated with its thuggy style. But I blew an A2 pulley completely apart the third day of the trip, flew back to Boston to have reconstructive surgery, and was forced to stop climbing for a long time. It feels pretty damn good to come back after all that time and take care of business. Psyched!"

David is an accomplished route setter and is spending this fall setting at The Spot Bouldering Gym in Colorado and traveling home to Boston to set The Darkhorse Series competitions. He has previously climbed 4 8Bs, one a First Ascent. Photo: Bebe Wolverine at Lincoln Lake (c) Dave's Louder Than 11 Blog.

Anna Stöhr won the Boulder semifinal  (1) Facebook

The double world champion Anna Stöhr won the boulder semifinal by doing three out of the four problems and the rest of the finalists are: Kim, Avezou (41 years old), Noguchi, Iakoleva and Sandoz. This means that high ranked female like Puccio, Wurm and Le Neve missed the final. Complete results

The number of top-out out of 20 for the four boulders were: 19, 7, 0, 3 which means that more or less the semi result was based on the topping the second boulder!

Another interesting fact is that Jain Kim won the Lead semi and was #2 in the Boulder semi.

8A+ FA by Stefan Lavander (15)  Facebook

Stefan Lavander has after having done five 8A's done his first 8A+, the FA of Nicely groomed in Flatirons. "YESSSSS!!! pSYCHED!!! 3 days of work! Lots o tried lots I beta. Hardest yet!! Feel free to downgrade if you do it!! 5 stars!!

8b FA by Johan Luhr (51) again  (7) Facebook

Johan Luhr is the perfect example of the climbing uniqueness when it comes to age and progress for physical sports. He started to climb 35 years ago and the last 25 years he has been super dedicated putting up more than 1 300 granite routes.

Yesterday he did another 8b FA, Laphrohaig in Stavsjö and based on his scorecard, it is easy to come to the conclusion that the 51 year old is in the best shape of his life. The Swede #1 in the 45+ ranking game.

9a FA again by Jonathan Siegrist  Facebook

Jonathan Siegrist blogs about his latest 9a FA, Algorrithm in Fins. "Idaho's hardest pitch, and one of the proudest F.A.s of my career. Stoked... super stoked!!

9a by Matteo Gambaro (37)  (3) Facebook

Matteo Gambaro has done his second 9a, Abyss in Gorges du Loup. It was set up by Alex Chabot and it is one of the few non-chipped hard routes at the crag. The 37 year old who has been climbing for 20 years is as his best shape ever based on the 8a scoring.


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