News   Numbers   Year
 
 
Bolt tightening kits on Kalymnos  Facebook
 

Climb Kalymnos reports that you now can find ‘Bolt tightening’ kits at six popular Kalymnos crags.

"So next time you see a spinner at one of these crags, look for the re-purposed shoe box; each is clearly labeled, as in the photo, with a ‘box for tightening loose bolts’ sticker and ‘how-to’ instructions. Many thanks go out to Eric Maanders for coming up with the idea, and to his clients for distributing the boxes within the next few days. Wrenches, nuts and hangers are provided by Climb Kalymnos."

 
 
Mammut: Ultimate Hoody II Women  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMammut has made a new version of their popular Ultimate Hoody by shorten the ventilation zips under the arms and the pit. It weighs only 330 gram and it becomes really small when packed together but with the GORE wind stopper material it is still warm. "It is a nice looking jacket that already has become my favourite whatever I am doing and I always carry it in my back pack", says one of the testers. More detailed info.

 
 
McColl & Stöhr win in Slovenia  (16) Facebook
 

1. Sean McColl 3t5 4b9 - Anna Stöhr 3t6 4b5
2. Jan Hojer 2t8 3b9 - Melissa Le Neve 3t6 4b7
3. Dima Sharafutdinov 2t10 3b8 - Shauna Coxsey 2t3 4b4
Complete results

This was the fourth straight win for Anna and the first win for Sean. Throughout the whole competition, Jacky Godoffe and his team made very nice problems out of which 25 of 26 problems were done, but even so, very few were done by most. Video of the finals.

 
 
Zillertal Boulder trip  Facebook
 

 
 
Jam Session 8A  Facebook
 

 
 
Val di Orco by Bernd Zangerl  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBernd Zangerl was one of the pioneers of the Ticino and especially the Magic Woods bouldering. Last year he opened some boulders in a new area, Val di Orco, 1 h north of Torino, for which he has produced a small topo including 40 problems from 5b to 8b.

16 min Zangerl video doing FAs, ""Some of the best & technical hardest climbs I ever did on granite", who continues.

"You will find the free of charge topo in RISTOBAR GRAN PARADISO in Noasca. This is a little restaurant, where you can get delicious food as well as a little shop to get daily supplies including Italian specialities. You can also sleep there.

The valley is part of a national park. In the summer, rangers
are in the valley and check the area including the camping and the campsite. Around the village you already see many boulders:-) and there is only one road in the valley, which ends on a mountain-pass 2800m high up.

Most boulders I opened you can spot from the road, you see rock and blocks everywhere and its fun to explore. The scenery is very beautiful and the potential is big.

 
 
How do you Climb/Train?  Facebook
 


 
 
Almost all against chipping!  (8) Facebook
 

Based on 1 600 unique votes to, " What do you think about Chipping?", we can see that the result in 2013 is a notch more negative towards chipping compared to an identical poll in 2009.

Yes! = Better Climbing: 6 % (6)
OK, but very seldom: 8 % (11)
I do not know: 2 % (3)
No, but cleaning is OK: 56 % (50)
NO! Brush is the limit: 27 % (30)

 
 
Sport Climbing needs your Olympic vote  (26) Facebook
 

Inside The Games has launched a a poll for the 2020 Olympic Games and invites its readers to answer the following question: "Which sport do you think the IOC should vote to include on the Olympic programme for 2020?"

After 146 000 votes for the eight candidates
1. Wrestling 39.8 %
2. Squash 30.5 %
3. Karate 24.2 %
6. Sport Climbing 0.5 %

 
 
Millau Roc Trip 22-24/6  Facebook
 

Millau and Petzl organize for the sixth time a Roc Trip that will take place 22-24/6. "3 days 100% climbing with housing and food included. Nights, debates, sharing, meeting on the thematic of climbing. Expected guest stars : Chris Sharma, Sasha Digiulian, Dave Graham, Nina Caprez and the whole Petzl French team. More info and registration.

 
 
Woods video of Bridge of Ashes 8C  (2) Facebook
 

Island.io presents a nice video from Daniel Woods second ascent of Dave Graham's Bridge of Ashes 8C in Elkland.

 
 
Gui-Gui does Two 8B's in Font  Facebook
 

L'insoutenable légèreté de l'être & Chaos from guittooo on Vimeo.

 
 
Ocun: EGO3 lighweight all-round  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Ego3 harness from Ocun is a great all-rounder that with 335 grams should suite especially the ones climbing both trad and sport. It is very comfortable with breathable lacing sandwich construction with micro-fiber leather and carries four gear loops and adjustable gear loops. In short a high quality product at a very affordable price. More info

 
 
Boulder WC Slovenia this weekend  (6) Facebook
 

The fourth stage of the Boulder World Cup 2013 takes place in Log Dragomer in Slovenia this weekend. The whole event is streamed live. The finals start Sunday 19.00. IFSC video from the last WC in Kitzbühel.

 
 
15th 8c+ onsight by Adam Ondra  (21) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has onsighted his 15th 8c+, Chambao in Baltzola. "Super guapa, but being flexible, it could be a little easier... 9a was postponed due to terrible humidity...I will be back."

The runner up in this 8c+ onsight ranking has done one including Alexander Megos 9a. It should also be noted that Adam, last autumn, onsighted two confirmed 9a's in Red River Gorge giving them a personal grade of 8c+.

After he comes back to Spain he is going to Flatanger in Norway so we are talking about a total of at least 50 hours of travelling with a car, until he can start looking for a future 9c project. (c) Alvaro Susena

 
 
Washington bouldering  Facebook
 

 
 
Lifestyle vs (or in combination) with Systematic training  Facebook
 

Whether a systematic training or a more Lifestyle approach (or a combination) are the best way for progress, depends mainly on the personality and the climbing possibilities you have on rock and the indoor where you live. No approach are better than the other, but it is unique for climbing that several of the best athletes do normally just climb instead of training systematically.

The main reason for this is that the best technical and tactical rock climbing training are done on rock. Physically you can, in general, train more efficiently indoors, but when it comes to projecting down your redpoint project, it is about physical optimization and mental inspiration on your route.

In most other individual sports, where systematic training is the only way, there are limited number of competitions which make it possible to do periodization training. On rock, you seldom train, you try to perform your maximum every day.

Surely, if you have limited access to good rock and conditions year around, systematic training indoors is much better than just climb up and down in the gym.

Today already many of the best climbers train systematically half of the season indoors and the rest of the season they just go climbing and most probably, this simple concept will grow stronger for all climbers in the future.

 
 
Japanese national team in Ticino 3  Facebook
 

 
 
Japanese national team in Ticino 2  Facebook
 

 
 
Japanese national team in Ticino 1  Facebook
 

 
 
Two 8c+' by Moroni in Frankenjura  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabri Moroni has had another great trip to Frankenjura where he did two 8c+ and several almost 30 year old classical including Kamasutra 218. "Gullich '86! 3tries. Hardest 8b ive ever done!"

The Italian has recorded 14 routes 8c and harder the last year which stands for 30 % of the total registered in the Frankenjura 8a data base.

"Frankenjura is the place where I feel at home and I have been there many times. I feel good there and the style of climbing suits me very well.

You love it or you hate it... and the hard routes are kind of specifics with bouldery sequences on bad crimps and pockets."
Full report and and more pics by Thomas Horstner in his blog

 
 
Blocz Trailer  Facebook
 

 
 
Portugal April 2013  Facebook
 

La Semana de Chuva from Nils Favre on Vimeo.

 
 
Gozo - The next climbing destination  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStevie Haston, one of the best 50+ climbers in the world, has presented an extensive guide to climbing on the Maltese island - Gozo, calling it the next climbing destination.

There are currently some 300 routes on the island spread our on 8 sectors.

 
 
Udini's Kitzbühel WC report  Facebook
 

 
 
Climbing banned in Armenia  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUp The Rocks informs that climbing on the basalt columns of Armenia has been banned. Since 2009, they have tried to develop a conservative style minimizing the number of bolts and in the end to skip them. Up The Rocks takes responsibility cleaning all the rappel anchors that were put so far.

"However, the experience showed that even world class climbers tend to skip the rules and use bolts, and it is actually impossible to keep under control.

 
 
Melloblocco #10  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanetmountain has the full report from the tenth Melloblocco which gathered some 2 000 boulderers. (c) Klaus Dell'Orto Video by Gianluca Bosetti.

Results from the 10 price giving boulders
9 Barbara Zangerl
8 Stefano Ghisolfi: Euro 570 I'm very happy to win this event. I was very motivated, climbing near Graham, Nalle and Ramonet was very inspiring. I had a lot of fun these days, they was unforgottable for me."

7 Jenny Lavarda
6 Caroline Ciavaldini, Yulia Abramchuk
6 Gabri Moroni, Enzo Oddo, James Pearson, Kipras Baltrunas and Enrico Baistrocchi

 
 
Chris Webb Parsons in Hueco 2009  Facebook
 

Chris Webb Parsons Bouldering In Hueco, Texas, USA from www.chriswebbparsons.com on Vimeo.

 
 
48 000 members and kicking  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe 8a community now has 48,000 members who have recorded and rated more than 2.5 million ascents. They can guide you to find the best crags and climbs around the world. We got the last 1000 members in less than 50 days, which is a new record.

Just sign up and start recording your ascents and be part of the community. We are always looking for more guys who can help us with translations, database maintenance and writing article etc. Everyone who helps out will get an 8a La Sportiva t-shirt.

 
 
Two girls one pup, by Alex Johnson  Facebook
 

"Two Girls, One Pup" from Alex Johnson on Vimeo.

 
 
Aris: Kalymnos bolts are OK  (28) Facebook
 

Climbing.co.za has published an article talking very badly about the bolt situation on Kalymnos, saying that Titanium is the only solution, that has been widely spread on Facebook.

Mr Kalymnos, Aris Theodoropoulos, has made some comments saying that the bolt problem relates to remaining non- and defective stainless steel bolts. He also says that the first picture in the article was taken by him as an example of non-stainless steel bolt. The other two pictures he does not think were taken on the island.

Aris also comments the article by saying, "It sounds exactly like the sales pitch of a person involved in producing titanium bolts."

 
 
Fred Nicole, Nico Favresse and Nalle Hukkataival cleaning Font  (4) Facebook
 

 
 
Ueli Steck Everest story  Facebook
 

Outsideonline has the full story from Ueli Steck who was almost killed by 100 sherpas on Mount Everest up at 6 500 meters.

"We all three went out and this whole crowd was there, maybe 100 people. When I saw they had their faces covered, I knew this was going to be really bad.

After I got hit by the rock, Melissa stepped in between me and them—which was good for me, because otherwise they would have killed me for sure."

 
 
The NOT trendy Crags  Facebook
 

Here are crags with the lowest percentage ascents during the last year. The highest ranked is San Vito Lo Capo with 52 %.

6 % Freyr
7 % Railay, Gorges du Tarn, Indian Creek, Desplomilandia,
8 % El Chorro, Orpierre, Owens River Gorge, Nowra,
9 % Calanques, Calders,

 
 
9a road teaser  Facebook
 

9a ROAD - TEASER from Hands Up Creations on Vimeo.

 
 
Graham: Bridge of Ashes 8C  (6) Facebook
 

 
 
Praxis Dr. Mann  Facebook
 

Praxis Dr. Mann from Inge on Vimeo.

 
 
March Font Chapter  Facebook
 

March Font chapter from Juri Chiaramonte on Vimeo.

 
 
What do you think about chipping?  Facebook
 


 
 
Fred Nicole - Deeper  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Five problems in Västervik  Facebook
 

Västervik Bouldering: Five Problems from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

 
 
Code of Ethics in the forum  (10) Facebook
 

At 8a.nu we strive to have pleasant, mature and constructive content in the forum and the debates within. Due to the
growing popularity of the website, in April 2013 we decided to set forth a “Code of Ethics” to try to mitigate some minor ongoing problems in the forum. To be able to post a comment or to start a forum thread it’s required that you are a registered member and logged in. You may register as a member by clicking the “New Member” button (located on the
right side of the top toolbar). Please enter your real name, as the use of clearly fictional personal details may lead
to a ban of your membership.

 
 
A few forgotten 9a's by Adam Ondra  (3) Facebook
 

After 5 minutes there are some amazing up-side-down climbing :)

Adam Ondra - A few forgotten 9a routes... from BERNARTWOOD on Vimeo.

 
 
Bolting with removable bolts  Facebook
 

Ben Spannuth bolting with ClimbTech from ClimbTech on Vimeo.

 
 
The unique age span is getting wider  Facebook
 

Climbing is unique when it comes to age and performance. In most other physical sports your maximum performance window is normally 10-20 years. In climbing we have seen world class performances done by girls in between 11 to 40 years.

Just during the last year there has been a dramatic increase by kids doing 8c's as well as 40 year old's making personal best. This trend will most likely continue and it would not be surprising that in few years, there will be kids 10 year olds and oldies above 45 that will challenge the top climbers.

 
 
Harry Edwards (12) does 8c+ in RRG  (14) Facebook
 

RockandIce and Climbingnarc reports that Harry Edwards has done Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. The 12 year old also did two 8b+s during his three week trip. The first 8b+, Harry did when he was 10 years old.

 
 
Norway - The next summer destination  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNorway did get a lot of media attention last year through the gigantic granitic gneiss outside Flatanger where Adam Ondra besides doing three 8c+ onsighs also established the first 9b+, Change.

Lars-Ole Gudevang has helped us putting together a suggestion for a roadtrip going from Oslo (7 hours) to Stavanger, (4 h) to Bergen, (4 h) to Sogn and (6h) back to Oslo. In all these areas you have several crags mainly rainproof.

The scenary driving around, in one of the most expensive countries in the world, are just mind-blowing.

Three hours before the border to Norway, you pass Göteborg with 800 routes just within 15 minutes and if you expand that to 1.5 hours north, there are another 1 000 routes both trad and sport. There are also climbing around Oslo but it's the areas around Stavanger, Bergen, Sogn you want to travel inbetween and reach.

Another option is to take the plan to Trondheim and go north for some amazing bouldering and sport climbing.

 
 
History: The Wave, The Foundry, Sheffield.  Facebook
 

The Wave from ben pritchard on Vimeo.

 
 
Looking for walls from fiords in Chile  Facebook
 

Los monos tambien flotan from SiEmPrE iR!! producciones on Vimeo.

 
 
Boulder World Cup Rankings  Facebook
 

1. Anna Stöhr AUT 300 - D Sharafutdinov RUS 216
2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 200 - Gui-Gui Mondet FRA 207
3. Shauna Coxsey GBR 186 - Jakob Schubert AUT 206
4. Alex Puccio USA 185 - Rustam Gelmanov RUS 142
5. Momoka Oda JPN 151 - Jorg Verhoeven NED 130
Complete ranking after three events.

 
 
 
8A by Maria Davies Sandbu (19)  Facebook
 

Maria Davies Sandbu has done her third 8A, Out of Balance in Rocklands. "An awesome boulder!! Its a beautiful line, which climbes really nice. The moves are tricky but still powerful."

 
 
8c by Ruben Firnenburg (14)  Facebook
 

Ruben Firnenburg has done Black is basic, 8c in Frankenjura which also his 2-year-older brother David did last months.

 
 
8c+ OS revenge by Adam Ondra  (10) Facebook
 

Planetmountain reports that Adam Ondra has onsighted L'avaro, 8c+ in Tetto di Sarre. It was set up by Alberto Gnerro as an 8c+ and confirmed by many and also 8c+/9a have been suggested, but Adam has not yet confirmed the grade. Until then, this was the his seventh 8c+ onsight.

The day before yesterday he was #17 in Chamonix and now he is on his way to Arco and the World Championship where he will compete in all disciplines including Speed.

 
 
8a+ by Brooke Raboutou (10)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBrooke Raboutou has done Esau directa, 8a+ in Margalef. The 10-year-old did her first 8b when she was 9-years-old. "I started climbing when I was 2 years old. Now I climb in competitions and outside. I also enjoy doing gymnastics and I compete in gymnastics too."

 
 
8B (+) by Anthony Gullsten (19)  (7) Facebook
 

Anthony Gullsten has done Mooiste Meisie in Rocklands for which he gives a personal grade of 8B, confirming the down grading suggestion by Ethan Pringle. "One of the most amazing climbs in Rocklands!"

The 19-year-old has also done another two 8B's and two 8A+'s during the last few days and he is #14 in the ranking game. The Fin is now on his way to Arco where he will participate in all events.

 
 
8A again by Therese Johansen  Facebook
 

Therese Johansen has done Pendragon, 8A in Rocklands. During her SA trip she has also done two 8A+'s and three 8A's, and she is #3 in the ranking game.

 
 
8b by Lena Shurubor (19)  (2) Facebook
 

Lena Shurubor has during the last week done Chertopoloh, 8b and New Konengsberg, 8b (a+) in Red Stone.

 
 
8B+ FA by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePaul Robinson has done the FA of Mirta, 8B+ in Topside located 1 hour south of Cape Town. "Wow... one of the coolest pieces of rock I have ever climbed on. the huge 45 wall on the mountain top. cant get much better than this. the black flower. a harder and cooler nagual! PSYCHED!!" Pics and more info of Topside.

 
 
4th 8b by Tito Traversa (10)  Facebook
 

Tito Traversa has done his fourth 8b, Pepper Life in Albenga. "6th go: very happy because other climbers said my beta is very hard." The 10-year-old is 135 cm tall so he did grip several inter mediates/foot holds.

 
 
8A+ (B) flash by Ethan Pringle  Facebook
 

Ethan Pringle has flashed Black Shadow, 8A+ (B) in Rocklands. "Woo-Hoo! Finally didn't punt off the top of something on the flash go! Incredible line." During the last month, Ethan has done nine boulder originally graded 8B or 8B+ but he has just recorded two.

 
 
8b+ MP by Caprez and Lachat  (1) Facebook
 

Planetmountain reports that Nina Caprez has done the classic 240m Silbergeier, 8b+ in Rätikon. Her partner did it a couple days before as a preperation for the Boulder World Cup in Sheffield where he was #2.

 
 
8b by Edita Vopatová (18)  Facebook
 

Edita Vopatová has done Minotaurus, 8b in Frankenjura. The 18-year-old is #2 in the female junior ranking game.

 
 
Pringle sets new standards at Rocklands  (6) Facebook
 

Ethan Pringle has done Mooiste Maise in Rocklands giving it a personal grade of 8B. During the last three weeks Ethan has done 10 boulders originally graded 8B or harder giving personal grades for seven of them. In 2007, he was #1 in the combined ranking game.

 
 
8b+ MP by Ciavaldini and Pearson  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Ciavaldini blogs about her 8b+ Multi-Pitch, Les Chemins de Katmandou in Gorges de la Jonte which she did after working it for four days. The 100m route was set up by Laurent Triay.

Also her partner James Pearson did it, "I think it is the best route I have done on limestone!"

 
 
8B+ by Nate Draughn  Facebook
 

Nate Draughn skips 8B and jumps directely to 8B+ by doing Big Worm at Mt Evans. "Fit me perfect. 4 days. high heel hooks by my hands out the whole prow. soo psyched!! hail and rain on the hike in, hour of overcast and wind and cooler temps! great way to end 3 weeks in the alpine!"

 
 
7C+ (8A) by Shay-Nemirow's  (2) Facebook
 

Flannery Shay-Nemirow (19) has done The Kind Traverse, 8A in RMNP which also her younger brother and Asher (16) did, commenting, "If anyone thinks this is 8A they're either stupid or crazy!" Flannery leads the junior ranking and Asher is #6.

 
 
8A+ by Therese Johansen again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTherese Johansen has done her third 8A+ during the last six weeks, Tea with Elmarie in Rocklands. The Norweigian is #3 in the world ranking game. Old interview.

The 21-year-old and 166 cm tall is currently projecting Steakhouse, 8A+.

 
 
8B+ by Phillip Schaal  Facebook
 

27crags reports that Phillip Schaal has done Amandla, 8B+ in Rocklands. The problem was set up by Fred Nicole as an 8C. He has also flashed Green Mamba, 8A+, originally given 8B.

 
 
3rd 8b by Tito Claudio Traversa (10)  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTito Claudio Traversa has done his third 8b, Nuovi aromi in Albenga. His first 8b, he did being 9-years-old. Tito climbs every other week and does not follow a training programme. (c) Marco Spataro

 
 
9a (+) FA by Markus Bock  (20) Facebook
 

Planetmountain reports that Markus Bock has set up another 9a (+) in Frankenjura,

 
 
9a & 8c+/9a FA's by Iker Pou  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAbout to finish his sport climbing season, Iker Pou does it not bad with sends like Akelarre, 9a and Celedón Txiki, 8c+/9a (in the pic by Jabi Baraiazarra), both in the Basque Country.

'Akelarre' "is a route with two well differentiated parts: the first 40m -bolted by myself 15 years ago- on overhanging terrain and very good holds, followed by some new vertical and slaby 25m with difficult bouldery cruxes, being the most difficult section in the last 10m. The graduation resulted not that easy since could be a bit size and wingspan dependant. We could say it is the sum of two precious 8b+'s.

'Celedón Txiki' is different, it's a very complicated power endurance and very overhanging route on very varied movements. I've put many tries on it to correctly wire the sequences up so that not falling exhausted."

 
 
8A (7C+) by Holly McMullen  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHolly McMullen who started climbing in 2009, has done her second 8A (7C+), Honey Badger in Mt Evans. "Amazing problem! My best day of climbing yet. I am ridiculously psyched!" Hollyclimbs.blogspot.com

 
 
8b+ by Stefano Carnati (13)  Facebook
 

Stefano Carnati has done his first 8b+, Sani e Belli in Valbrona. Earlier this spring he did his first 8A boulder being 12-years-old.

 
 
9a by Cedric Lachat  Facebook
 

Kairn reports that Cedric Lachat has made the third ascent of Le Cadre Nouvelle Version in Céüse, a new 9a variation avoiding the chipped 8c, which has previously been done by Ondra and Pringle.

 
 
9a+ FA by Pouvreau  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGerome Pouvreau blogs about his new 9a+ in a secret crag in Luberon National Park, La Madone which is a 50m and a combination of two 8c+'.

Gerome finished a very succesful competition carrer in 2009. In 2001, was the lead world champion being 17-years-old and overall and overall in the WC he was #2. He has also won two two Boulder WC events.

 
 
9a by Seb Boussogne  Facebook
 

Sebastien Boussogne blogs about his first 9a, La directe du crapaud in St Pancrasse. Here is "Rackam" doing an 8c+.

 
 
8B (+) by Brian Antheunisse (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Brian Antheunisse has done Evil Backwards, 8B (+) in Mt Evans. "Such a GREAT boulder! My first 8B outside hueco. As for the grade, it's very similar in difficulty to Crown of Aragorn. Kind of quick. My punting curse has ended!"

 
 
8b+ OS by Domen Škofic (17)  Facebook
 

Domen Škofic has done his first 8b+ onsight, Active discharge in Misja Pec and he goes to #12 in the ranking game. "60 meters long and sooo nice. The best route ever! Payback for Spain :)"

In 2009, he won the Euro Youth Cup and in the last comp he was #4 in Edinburgh.

 
 
8B+ by Brion Voges  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBrion Voges has done his second 8B+ in Mt Evans during the last week, Big Worm. "I guess its soft. felt hard to me but i definitely wouldn't consider it my style. conquer the anti-style!" Brion has had a steady progress for seven straight years and he is now #6 in the ranking game. More pics at his blog. (c) Jon Glassberg

 
 
8b by Eva Scroccaro (12)  Facebook
 

Eva Scroccaro climbed her first 8b, Masochismo in Baratro. The 12-year-old did it at the 10th attempt. Three weeks ago she won her first lead italian championship, Under 14.

 
 
8b (+) by Maria Davies Sandbu (19)  (3) Facebook
 

Maria Davies Sandbu has done Satan Export in Hell and gives it a personal grade of 8b. She had previously done an 8b in Hell suggesting 8a+ for it. The Norweigian is #10 in the female junior ranking.

 
 
8B by Elan Jonas Mcrae (16)  Facebook
 

Elan Jonas Mcrae has done his first 8B, Vince Pinch Low in Squamish. The 16-year-old had previously done three 8A (+) and he is #10 in the Junior ranking game.

 
 
8A+ (B) again by Therese Johansen  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTherese Johansen has done Black shadow in Rocklands for which she gives a personal grade of 8A+. This is Therese's third personal grade of a personal best in just one month. More pics in her blog.

Here is an old interview. "I have tried some different methods but it does not suit me to follow a programme."

 
 
8c and 8b+ also by Yana Chereshneva  (4) Facebook
 

Yana Chereshneva has done Skif, 8c in Nikita and the 8b+, Parallel'niy mir. Actually she did them both twice training hard for the world Championship in Arco. Yana is also a succesfull competition climber having won the World Youths twice and 22 times, including both Lead and Boulder, she has been Top-10 in the World Cup. Her best Speed result is #6 in the World Championship 2007.

She has several times competed with her mother, Verena, who finished a great cometition career being #8 in the world bouldering championship in 2005, being 40-years-old.

 
 
8c and 8b+ by Barbara Zangerl  Facebook
 

Barbara Zangerl has after five days done her first 8c, Erntezeit at Voralberg where she previously had done Reifeprüfung. Barbara is a x world class boulderer who had to, more or less, give it up due to a back injury problems. She has since also been doing some very impressive multi-pitches.

 
 
Also Brion Voges does 8B (+)'s in Mt Evans  (2) Facebook
 

Brion Voges has during the last week done four boulders originally graded 8B+ in Mt Evans. We Can build you stays but Evil backwards, which he did in 45 min, and Death Trout, "psyched to climb it while there is snow covering the death landing", go down to 8B. The suggested personal grade of The Exfoliator is 8A+. Brion advances to #8 in the ranking game.

 
 
8A+ by Shauna Coxsey (18)  (6) Facebook
 

UKC has the full story of Shauna jumping directely from 7C+ to 8A+.

Pilgrim 8a+ from Shauna Coxsey on Vimeo.

 
 
8B+ by James Webb  Facebook
 

James Webb has repeated Dave Graham's Big Worm, 8B+ in Mt Evans. "Low end 14 i believe. Amazing compression on sick features." Only in June, using FA grades, Jimmy has done four boulders graded 8B+ and flashed one 8B.

 
 
8B+ by Oliver Mignon  Facebook
 

Belclimb.net reports that Oliver Mignon has done his first 8B+, New Base Line in Magic Wood. It was set up as an 8C by Bernd Zangerl in 2002.

 
 
8A+ (B+) by Anthony Gullsten  Facebook
 

Anthony Gullsten has done a 15 min ascent of the classic Madiba set up as an 8B+ by Fred Nicole in Rocklands in 2003. The 19-year-old suggest 8A+, "I wouldn't say 8B+ nor 8B. Nonetheless, really amazing roof climbing with big moves."

 
 
8A (+) by Therese Johansen  Facebook
 

Therese Johansen has done the classic Nutsa in Rocklands giving it a personal grade of 8A. The Norweigian is #3 in the boulder ranking game.

 
 
8A+ (B) flash by James Webb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb continues doing impressive sends in Mt Evans and yesterday he flashed Tattooed Teardrops, "very cool problem, and very much my style", suggesting a personal grade of 8A+. He also did a 15 min ascent of Death Trout, 8B.

Based on Jimmy's trend diagram, and all his personal gradings, he is a possible contender being the #1 boulder in the world in a year or so.

 
 
8A+ by Shauna Coxsey  Facebook
 

Shauna Coxsey has done The Pilgrim in Parisella's Cave, N. Wales, UK.

 
 
8B+ by James Webb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has done We can build you in the new sector, Wolverineland, high up at Mt Evans and he is #4 in the ranking game. The road to this remote area is just open between June and September and for now many of the boulders are covered in snow. Last year, Dave Graham and Daniel Woods and company put up a dozen 8A+ and harder. Picture from B3bouldering who has the latest updates.

 
 
9a by Felipe Camargo  (2) Facebook
 

Felipe Camargo has done Ali hulk, 9a in Rodellar. "video and photos: Felipecamargo.com! my hardest for sure...pure power endurance climbing on roof...amazing! soo good!"

 
 
8A by Therese Johansen  Facebook
 

Therese Johansen has done No Late Benders, 8A in Rocklands and she is #3 in the ranking game. "Nice boulder, no real hard moves, but nice flow:) loooow-end 8A, if so at all..."

 
 
8b by Anak Verhoeven (14)  Facebook
 

Anak Verhoeven who has won the three last Euro Youth Cup has done her first 8b, Abregenief in St Leger.

 
 
8b by Helena Alemán  Facebook
 

Helena Alemán has done Terence Hill, 8b+ in Margalef and she is #2 in the ranking game. Last weekend she finished #2 in the Spanish Cup circuit after Berta Martín.

 
 
9a by Ethan Pringle - Update  (24) Facebook
 

Ethan Pringle has done Le Cadre Nouvelle Version, 9a in Céüse which Adam Ondra set up last year, avoiding four chipped holds taking a big loop to the left of the original 8c. "Skipped the Chipped! Awesome climbing on the new variation. Really surprised I didn't fall after the jump..." So the question is, who chipped it? Should it be filled?

 
 
8c flash by Jakob Schubert  Facebook
 

Jakob Schubert has flashed Helel Ben schachar stot f luzifer in Kalkhafen. "Amazing route, solid 8c! perfect beta from Lu, thanks bro! 3rd Ascent (I think)."

  2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004


Videos
2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
Next Page ->