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How to quickly get stronger and get best prepared for outdoors 

Click to Enlarge PictureWe are getting closer to spring and for all the route climbing guys that have not been training so often and hard at the gym, it is about time to also do some power training. The easiest thing is of course just to do some hard bouldering in the beginning of each session but the most efficient training is done through dead hangs and campus boarding.

15 minutes recruitment- power training
A. 5 one sec dead hangs, 30 sec rest, 5 reps
B. 2 campus moves, 30 sec rest, 5 reps
C. 5 sec dead hangs, 1 minute rest, 5 reps
D. 10 sec hangs on the smallest hold possible, 2 min rest, 2-4 reps
(You can repeat it up to 10 times if you are experienced and want a stronger focus on power).

Start easy and you should feel that you get stronger all the time, otherwise increase the rest. It is also important to hang in the gripping angle you want to get stronger in which normally is a bit more crimping compared to what you practice in the gym. Only if you are experienced you should aim for the closed crimp as in the picture. In general, the power session is best done with open crimp meaning, less steep angle of your fingers and also no thumb avove your index finger. Longer power training article Facebook

Jack The Chipper 

MagicRocks: Video by Ugur YILMAZ from aykut turem on Vimeo.


"RC helicopters the future of climbing films"  (10)

Click to Enlarge PictureG Bruce Wilson from Three Peak Films with many videos presented by EpicTV believes aerial drone will be the future for climbing videos. Check their Aerial Reel 2014

"The RC helicopter industry has been exploding and making it more affordable than ever to get aerial shoots of all almost all adventure sports. It will become more and more common as time goes on that low budget adventure film makers will be using these drones providing a higher production value to even the most simple video.

I think within five years they will be used to film almost all notable ascents and be almost as common as you see people with digital single lens cameras at the crag. More and more hobbyists will use them to make their own climbing videos. Facebook

Albarracin by EpicTV 


Ariel Reel 2014 

Aerial Reel 2014 from Three Peak Films on Vimeo.


Film teaser from the Alex Honnold 600 m solo of El Sendero Luminoso 7b+ (c)  (4)

Alex Honnold soloed, three weeks ago, the 15 pitches El Sendero Luminoso in Potrero Chico giving it a personal grade of 7b+. On his 8a scorecard he comments the ascent: "Solo! In dos horas. And then another hour to get to the top of El Toro. Amazing experience!".

Reel Rock presents an amazing clip from the crux. The full film will be released on The North Face's YouTube channel in the upcoming weeks.

How much do you need to rest? 

Adam Ondra is known for resting extremely long in between attempts although he should have a very good blood circulation in his forearms, getting out the lactic acid faster than most. At the same time, you often hear about top climbers who climb and perform seven days in a row especially in bouldering, if your skin is OK.

In general, the better trained and the more years you have climbed, the less you need to rest. The simple rule is that you do not need to rest as long as your performance is not dropping. Once the performance goes down you need to rest longer in between attempts or having a rest day. In other words, a boulderer need to rest less compared to a route climber who always fights with lactic acid.

Once you have become super pumped you probably have just one or two good attempts left that day and after several burns, a rest day is needed. It is also important to understand, especially for the less experienced, that resting more will reduce the risk of injuries. Facebook

500 crags and sectors topos in the 8A topo  (5)

More than 500 crags and sector topos are now possible to down load in the Topo App available both for IPhones and Android. Here is the link to create more Left-to-Right Topos. Try it out, it just takes like 10-15 minutes to sort a crag/sector with 50 climbs.

We can also provide you with a special log-in in order to first do some spell checking, merging routes and add more sectors to a crag. Everyone who spend a couple of hours will get an 8A La Sportiva T-shirt. Facebook

IFSC Calender for 2014 is set 

IFSC has presented the full 2014 WC Calender including 8 Lead and Boulder Events. The Boulder World Championships will take place in Munich in August, Lead in Gijon in September and Youth in New Caledonia in September (New dates).

Further more, Sport Climbing will be showcased at the 2014 Youth Olympic Games in China in August. Facebook

Mike Doyle - Athlete Spotlight "Necessary Diligence" 


The bouldering trends - Steeper, Quicker, More and Rounded 

Click to Enlarge PictureBouldering is getting more popular and nowadays there are almost no hard core guys who just do routes. This has dramatically increased the number of FA 8A and harder the last years and probably it is anyhow just the beginning. Although we have seen a nice boulder community progress when it comes to grades up to 8C, the progress can best be measured by the quickness of the ascents. It seems we see less long time projecting and instead the boulderes more enjoy doing variety of hard boulders. A further explanation to this is of course all the great videos out there.

Another trend is that fewer of the hard FA and repeated boulders, lately, are slightly overhanging challenging the closed crimp. The good reason for this is of course that an 8B vertical is more painful than a steep one. Actually, the trend is doing steep rounded or arete boulders more challenging the open crimp or open hand position like on Meadow Lark Lemmond 8B+ in Red Rocks. Paul Robinson put up the great boulder in 2012 and the last four months we have seen at least eight repeats including Jakob Schubert's on the picture. Facebook

The most popular training articles 

87 839 Lactic Acid and pumped forearms
56 087 Recruitment training
49 712 Short cuts to 8a
38 346 Hangboarding

Here you have all the 28 training articles Facebook

Onsight training and strategy  (20)

The highlights of the season is often the onsights during your travel. Here are some quick technical and tactical tips that might increase the joy, adrenaline and your score.

1. Route reading: 5 minutes is mandatory and also to present and discuss your strategy with your friend.
2. No Eliminations: Never think, "Is that hold allowed?"
3. Fast: Do not hesitate, take chances and you will get less pumped and you will be able to climb/send more. Every time you get super pump your daily potential performance is reduced.
4. Tick List: Check which routes are onsight friendly and if they have been done by climbers of your size.
5. "One more hold": It is easy to mentally give up if you wasted a lot of energy in the beginning. No thinking approach means just focus on the next sequence.
6. Look Down - Visualize/Rest: Onsight climbing is stressful as your head and eyes are like a submarine periscope. By often looking down you have time to rest, sort the information and memorize the next sequence. Facebook

Review - OR's Floodlight Jacket 

Click to Enlarge PictureSometimes, when we're about to leave home to go climbing/bouldering in the mountains and the weather is changeable, i.e., it's cold outside and don't know whether it's going to rain or not, we normally doubt whether to take our down jacket to be warm or the waterproof one so as not to get wet.

We've found a piece of clothing which has solved this problem, since it perfectly combines the nice warmth its 800+ down fill provides -besides of the compressibility and lightness which are not met by the synthetic garments- plus the fact that I'm going to be at ease without worrying about getting wet or the wind bothering me. We're talking about the new Outdoor Research's Floodlight Jacket and here you are with a few more explanations on what we've found about it. Facebook

Adam Ondra is getting superior 

Click to Enlarge PictureHere is the 9b and 9b+ stats excluding DWS, boulder routes and sit start routes. Adam Ondra has done 12, Chris Sharma six, Fernandez and Andrada one. It is kind of strange that during the last three years only Ondra with eleven and Sharma with three have done a 9b. In 2013, some ten guys did a 9a+ and Ramonet has done six after 2009 which can be compared with Ondra's 27 routes 9a+ and harder.

9b+ Change - Flatanger Ondra -12
9b+ La Dura Dura - Oliana Ondra -13, Sharma
9b+ Vasil Vasil - Sloup Ondra - 13

Chilam Balam - Fernandez -03, Ondra
Delincuente Extension - Rodellar, Andrada -08
Jumbo Love - Clark Mtn, Sharma -08
Neanderthal - Santa Linya, Sharma -09
Golpe de Estado - Siurana, Sharma -09, Ondra
First Round First Minute - Margalef, Sharma -11, Ondra
La Capella - Siurana, Ondra -11
Chaxi Raxi - Oliana, Ondra -11
La Planta del Shiva - V. del Rosario, Ondra -11
Stoking the Fire - Santa Linya, Sharma -13
Fight or Flight - Oliana, Sharma -13, Ondra
Iron Curtain - Flatanger, Ondra -13
Move - Flatanger, Ondra -13

Grades are subjective and probably there is at least one 9a+ that will qualify for the 9b list in few years. It should also be noted also that Adam is a full time student in the University and that he finished high school 2012. (c) Vojtech Vrzba Facebook

Finisterre bouldering 


The 58 m story of Chris Webb Parsons 

Don't Blink - The story of CWP from Abstract Normality on Vimeo.


CAC - A great success story for John and the climbing community 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbers Against Cancer and John Ellison won the "Winners" award of Social awareness at ISPO. In just 12 months, CAC has raised 230 000 Euro out of which 40 000 have already been donated to research facilities in Australia, France and Canada. Here is a new 8a interview with founder John Ellison.

"CAC is totally a non profit organisation and every penny raised goes towards the fundraising efforts. No one is paid and no money is used for any of the administration. Anyone who helps with the project does so on a voluntary basis (myself included) and quite often at a cost to themselves. Facebook

Re-change New Caledonia dates 4 days earlier or later 

The dates for the Youth World Championship in New Caledonia has been changed from 15-18 August to 20-24 September. This means that most kids will need to take 1.5 week vacation from school, but if the event instead of a Saturday starts on a Tuesday, the kids just need five days leave.

There is of course a risk that the 1.5 week vacation, 30 h travelling, a cost of at least Euro 2 000 and competing, as well as returning back to school, jet-legged will reduce the number of participants.

The best thing would of course be to keep the original dates as this would mean that most would make a longer trip to also have time for some exciting holidays, no vacation needed and no disturbing jet leg while competing or returning back to school.

It is strange that no reasons have been given, beside it was a suggestion from the French Federation, why the dates were changed and especially why they did not start on a Tuesday as this would have meant a shorter leave from school. Facebook

Sharma doing the FA of First round, First minute 9b in 2011  (2)


First Round, First Minute 9b by Adam Ondra  (12)

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has done Chris Sharma's First Round, First Minute 9b in Margalef which took him 9-10 days. "Next is some unfinished business in Finestra (also Margalef) and than we are moving further...close to Oliana," says photographer (c) Vojtech Vrzba." Henning Wang did film the ascent. Interview at PlanetMountain.

Like previous years, Adam took three weeks off from climbing during Christmas break and after that he has been training for three weeks and arrived to Margalef 25/1. They will return to Czech Republic 12/2 so another week to go before picking up his University studies. In 2014, Adam will do some Boulder WC's and the whole Lead circuit. Facebook

The Chris Webb Parsons story 

BMC presents a great 58 min story of various ascent by Chris Webb Parsonsthe last years including two 8C's.

Chris has also been doing many Boulder WC's the last year paying everything from his own pocket. Last year he won the Arco Rock Master and in the WC, his best result is #6. He thinks it will cost him around 10 000 USD to do the WC in 2014 so he plans to do only three. Facebook

Albarracín Bouldering by Lorenz Ulmer  (2)

Albarracín Bouldering from 45degrees on Vimeo.


Youth World's in New Caledonia changed to September 20-24 

IFSC reports that they based on a suggestion from the French Federation has changed the date for the Youth World Championship to September 20-24. The event will take place in New Caledonia which means that most youngsters will have to take vacation at least 1.5 week from the school.

Reino Horak, Swedish National Coach comments that "There may cause problems for students taking 8-10 days off school and for team officials which work volunteer for their federations to get days off work in September since the common industrial vacations are finished. This may eventually also lead to a severely reduced numbers of participants which in the long run may lead to diminished interest in lead competition climbing. We already today see a severe situation concerning youth comps and all sub-factors that can add to this trend is of concern. Facebook

Personal goals, training and prerequisites 

The 8a scorecard promotes doing multiple hard ascents instead of focusing on just one super hard personal grade record. Personal goals doing like 10 ascents of a specific grade is often the best strategy for long time progress and it makes your grade pyramid more stable in order to reach the next level.

Different climbers have different prerequisites like gender, age, weight, length etc and normally you are better talented for either open hand or closed crimp, power or endurance etc. It is just normal to adjust to this and one example of this is that you seldom see any big guys going for the steep 40m routes instead you see them doing reachy dynamic boulders.

The normal saying is that, "you should train and challenge your weaknesses" but if you really want to invest time making a new personal best, do the opposite. First, you have to analyze your personal prerequisites and actually try to define the specific move you are best at. It can be doing a long lock-of combining a high step with a gaston, it can be a traverse on sloopers or it can be an extreme knee-drop two finger cross over move.

Once you have find your best move, try to optimize it and then you can travel around the globe searching the perfect crux move. It will be easy to make a personal best but do not get surprise if you, at the same time, will find your pyramid have become less stable. Facebook

8b+ and 8b OS by Reffo Silvio in Margalef 

Reffo Silvio Facebook

Patagonian Epic 


Alex Honnold talking about risk 

A Question of Risk - Episode 1 - Alex Honnold from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.


Jimmy Webb in Hueco Tanks up to 8B+ 

Jimmy Webb - Out OF the Furnace from sammyd on Vimeo.


Spell checking/Merge routes etc in the data base is possible 

We have received several mails how it can be possible to first do some spell checking etc and add missing routes to the data base before sorting from left-to-right.

Adding ascent you can do in your own scorecard but clicking "DB Ascents" meaning it will not show up on your list. When it comes to spell checking you need a specific log in. Just email, and everyone having done some few hours work will get a free 8a La Sportiva T-shirt. Facebook

CAC wins price at ISPO 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbing Against Cancer and John Ellison won the "Winners" award of Social awareness at ISPO. In just 12 months, CAC has raised 230 000 Euro out of which 40 000 have already been donated to research facilities in Australia, France and Canada.

Some two years ago, John did get the message that, "you have an advanced Cancer that is aggressive and to add to that you also have a secondary cancer.

Whilst sat amongst so many friends from around the globe at the recent World Climbing Championships in Paris it became clear to me just how unique climbing is as a sport and how special we are as climbers. No matter what nationality, creed or colour there is a natural desire to support each other and encourage one another to succeed. Very few sports display this togetherness and it was at this point I realized that we are in fact an ‘extended family’. Facebook

World Cup Calender 2014 is ready 

IFSC has put in another three World Cup events in for 2014 and now there is 8 + 8 Lead and Boulder events out of which 4 + 3 in Europe (44 %). Previous years, nine WC's in Europe and 62 % was the lowest ever. Here is the 2014 calender including a lot of interesting travelling

26/4 China, 3/5 Azerbaijan, 10/5 Switzerland, 16/5 Austria, 31/5 Canada, 5/6 USA

20/6 China - Lead & Boulder, 27/6 France - Boulder

12/7 France, 19/7 France, 1/8 Austria, 11/10 Korea, 18/10 China, 25/10 Japan, 15/11 Slovenia Facebook

Helicopter video 


Mirko Caballero Confessions of a kid crusher 


How do you feed out rope with the Grigri? 

Click to Enlarge Picture

Epic TV in Margalef  (1)


The Egger Project 


Bouldern in Prilep 

Bouldering in Prilep from Oldschool Rocks on Vimeo.


Helicopter recording can be the future  (15)

Click to Enlarge PictureDuring the last few years, we have seen a dramatic development when it comes to quality bouldering videos. At the same time, some pioneers have used expensive helicopters to record routes with mainly good results. The prices are getting lower and the AR Drone from Parrot at the picture cost 300 USD including the camera and this spring they will introduce a much smaller and more stable at half the price.

It will probable not take long until there will daily be a helicopter recording at major crags around the world. Do not get surprised if there also will be a streaming from a helicopter when Ondra and Sharma go for an 9c in Oliana. Facebook

Ondra and Graham the most viewed scorecards  (1)

Here you have the most viewed scorecards with Adam Ondra and Dave Graham on top. In total, Adam has received more 1.3 million clicks on his pages and Dave 900'. Among the female, Sasha Digulian's scorecard is most popular. You can also check the list per respective country page. Facebook

Poland - The fastest growing country on 8a 

Based on number ascents and new members, Poland is the fastest growing country in the 8a community and the growth is strongest for routes. Almost all of the 139 crags in the Polish data base, are located just above the border to Czech Republic or to Slovakia. Facebook

Warm Heart of Africa : Malawi behind the scene ! 

Warm Heart Of Africa EXTRA // Behind The Scene from Vast Motion Pictures on Vimeo.


TNF Responsible Down Standard 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe North Face has produced a responsible down standard (RDS) where they and other organisations - can evaluate and certify its down supply chain against a set of animal welfare and traceability requirements.

Each section of the RDS addresses the specifics of that site, with requirements for animal welfare and traceability. The five modules are as follows: Farm, Slaughter, Transport, Small Farmer Group, Textile Exchange Content Claim Standard. Facebook

Corbie 8.6 mm gold award winner at ISPO 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdelrid, who has been developing ropes for 150 years and in 1964 produced the first dynamic rope, won the gold award for the third consecutive year at ISPO 2014 with the Corbie 8.6 mm. Grigri2 is only allowed down 8.9 so you need their special belay device - Mega Jul. Last year they won with Snipe, a rope with two different diamaters.

Jury: "The Corbie 8.6mm is the thinnest climbing rope worldwide, which is certified as a single, double and twin rope. The small diameter of 8.6mm is possible thanks to the use of a braided core. This core construction is like a rope within a rope and serves as an additional safety measure. Exacting raw material selection combined with innovative finishing processes applied to the fibers serves to increase the sliding properties of the yarns."

Other interesting innovations from Edelrid are;
- The lightest and quickest looking carabiner - HMS Strike Slider
- Quickdraw with super light/small upper carabiner and bigger for the rope
- Belaystation for indoor without twisting Facebook

8B+ by Martin Stranik 


The Circuit review 

Click to Enlarge PicturePeter Beal has made a review of the first issue of The Circuit a new print magazine produced by Eddie Fowke which can be ordered here.

"I’ve always loved climbing magazines and in the early 90’s it was the only way to follow the competition circuit. Sadly even with growing participation and following worldwide there never seemed to be much content in the existing English Language magazines. It’d always be a paragraph or two at best.

If you look at any other sport or activities they have specialist publications that act as aspirational and educational platforms, climbing magazines (again I only speak of English language ones) had never had this niche filled. I felt it was time to fill that niche and get some psyche out there! Facebook

More hot news at ISPO 

Click to Enlarge PicturePetzl showed a thick crash pad with a patented nice idea for covering the carrying system as well as creating a storage space. They did also present eight different ropes.

Trangoworld introduced a new clothing brand, DG, based on Dave Grahams ideas. We will also test their Crash Pad partly based on Air. Dave plans to create a Trangoworld DG 8a T-shirt and he is up to writing a new a new grade article, "The Story of The Modern World". He wants us to use also 8C+ and first on the line isHypnotized minds by Woods, the hardest Dave has ever tried. Now he has a finger injury but this is in top of his prio list.

Beal: The first to get the UIAA Dry certificate, less than 5 % Water Absorption as all their ropes absorbs less than 2 %. Following up story to come. Facebook

Locking carabiner innovation and competition 

Click to Enlarge PictureGrivel, Edelrid and Austria Alpine have lately presented new innovative looking carabiners. They are all a bit more expensive than the normal screw carabiner but they all have their benefits.

Grivel has two types which can also be used as quick draws and their main argument is safety as they have two securing gates. It means also in fact that they can take bigger cross loads and they can not be unclipped from a rope, a bolt or from your harness. Their bigger one, the K6G in the picture, can actually rotate freely and is what they first recommend for the Grigri or similar.

In this video and what Grivel shown practically at ISPO is that it can be clipped almost as quick as for a normal quick draw and much faster than a normal screw carabiner. It is actually quite easy but the obstacle is that it increases the risk for falling with the rope in your hand. It seems we first have to learn the trick by using it as a "screw" carabiner for your Grigri before we can go all the way.

We will come back with some comments for the Edelrid new innovation and here a short presentation for the 50/50 auto locking from Austria Alpine. Facebook

Paige Claassen - India's Hardest Route - Ganesh 8b+ (FFA) 


Font December 2013 


8B+ FA by Daniel Woods again 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has opened yet another 8B+, Mind to Motion at Elkland. "The line goes out a 35 degree overhanging bulge. There are two near parallel rails leading to a flat hold at the 3/4 point. The style is wide compression moves between the two rails with involved heel hooking and edging." (c) Dariusz Kuczynski

Daniel has been one of the leading boulderers in the world since 2006 when he was 17 year old. Totally he has done 12 8C boulders out of which five in 2011. This spring he will focus more on sport. Long interview coming up including nice thoughts on training, lifestyle and gradings. Facebook

8A again by Alex Puccio 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done Sunshine, 8A in Hueco Tanks which was her seventh 8A and harder the last year. There are now six 8a girls who have done the great boulder. She also did two 7C+, calling Full Service, "Best climb I have done in Hueco Tanks!" In 2011, Alex was #3 in the Boulder WC. Facebook

8B+ in a day by Sean McColl 

Sean McColl reports that he did Kheops assis, 8B+ in just one day. More info. Last November, Sean did two 8B+ and one 8C just before he won his first Lead World Cup. The Canadian has won five Youth World Championship titles. Facebook

8A+ by Sarah Seeger  (2)

Click to Enlarge PictureMarmot reports that Sarah Seeger, who is their PR & Communications Manager, has done Kalte Sophie, 8A+ in Frankenjura in just four days. Sarah has previously also done 8c routes. There are at least a dozen female who previously have done 8A+ and at least four who has done 8B. (c) Ricarda Miller Facebook

9a by Alizée Dufraisse  (12)

Click to Enlarge PictureAlizée Dufraisse blogs blogs about her first 9a, La Reina Mora in Siurana. The route was set up by Ramon Julian Puigblanque as an 8c in 2008 and has later been subject of several upgradings. There are previously three female who have done 9a, Josune Bereziartu, Charlotte Durif and Sasha Digulian.

Alizée who previously has done 8c+, is a very active competition climber who in 2010 was #3 in the Euro Lead Champion. She has also once, won the Arco Rock Masters in Bouldering. (c) Francisco Taranto JR Facebook

9a by Tom Bolger in Santa Linya 

Click to Enlarge PictureTom Bolger has done his fifth 9a in Santa Linya, Fabela pa la enmienda. Since three years, Tom has been living in the area working as an english teacher and for the last year, he lives in the very small village Santa Linya just above the great cave. His next project is Catxasa, 9a+ and he also wants to climb more in Oliana and Margalef as well as bolt some more news.

"I work 5 days a week in the evenings so can often be seen grabbing all my stuff together and rushing off to work at about 4 o'clock. I am planning to stay in Catalonia for a long time, although I will be back in the uk for the summers." Facebook

8A by Shauna Coxsey (18) 

Shauna Coxsey has done Zoo York, 8A in Caley. Last year, the 18 year old was #4 and #8 in the two Boulder World Cups she did. Facebook

Iris Matamoros Quero joins the 9a club  (2)

Iris Matamoros Quero has done his first 9a, Esclatamasters in Perles which was opened by Ramon Julian Puigblanque in 2006. It is an excellent 40 metres routes challenging different styles of climbing. Iris has previously done three 8c+.

As of 2012, around 70 climbers have done at least one of the maybe 120 9a routes in the world. Facebook

8B+ by Kevin Lopata 

Kevin Lopata has done Satan i Helvete départ bas, 8B+ in Fontainebleau. The French guy have done many of the hardest boulders in the forest including the FA of La force du destin, 8B+. Facebook

8c by Florence Pinet 

Florence Pinet has done with Métaphysique des tubes, 8c in Seynes which was here first of the grade. Florence was active on the competition scene until 2009 and has previously done several 8b and 8b+'. Facebook

8A again by Conny Matthes 

Conny Matthes has done Der Undertan, 8A in Thuringen and Hunde die bellen beißen nicht, 7C+ in Frankenjura. Last year, Conny did three 8A+'s. Facebook

8c+ (9a) FA by Roland Hemetzberger 

Click to Enlarge PictureRoland Hemetzberger has opened Tunnelblick, 8c+ or 9a in Achleiten which is 30 m long starting with 8b+ followed by a 7C+ boulder. "My Best Route ever and maybe the hardest FA in Austria the last year."
More info at

"On the same day I opened another 8b+ or 8c route, Wild traverse with crazy moves on a golden typ of rock named Goldenpearl!" Facebook

8A by Sasha Digulian (19) 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian has done Sunshine, 8A in Hueco Tanks where she also has done three 7C+ during the last two weeks. Video is coming up. In 2011, Sasha did her first 9a and she was the Combined World Champion. Facebook

8b+ by Melissa Le Neve 

Melissa Le Neve has done Renegoide, 8b+ in Siurana. "I did it the first day, when I came in Siurana (after many tries in my last trip). It's really not my style but it's nice to change and to be confront in other thing!" In the Boulder WC in 2011, Melissa was #4 and she leads the 8a boulder ranking game. Facebook

8B+ by Sam Davis 

Sam Davis has after having done 12 8B's made his first 8B+, Esperanza in Hueco Tanks. Blogging pictures Facebook

8a+ OS's in Laos by Pearson & Ciavaldini  (1)

James Pearson reports from a new amazing crag in eastern Laos called Thakhek where he and his girlfriend Caroline Ciavaldini onsighted Big Smile, 8a+.

"The main event however is the gigantic roof on the right. 20m of horizontal, gloriously featured Emmental. Huge jugs and slopers, nothing sharp, nothing loose, nothing chipped or glued – this might be the best roof I have climbed in!" Facebook

8C FA by Paul Robinson  (2)

Click to Enlarge Picture27crags reports that Paul Robinson has opened Medowlark Lemon, 8C at Red Rocks which is a 8B sitstart to a previous 8B problem. Paul spent eights days over two years to take it down.

"I considered it one of the best lines I have ever climbed on in the entire world. The boulder is super physical, yet really technical. The crux revolves around some really crazy heel hooks on the left arete."

More pics at Pauls blog. Facebook

9a+ FA by Iker Pou  (4)

Click to Enlarge PictureKairn reports that Iker Pou has made the FA of Nit de bruixes, 9a+ in Margalef. Two years ago, he repeated Chris Sharma's, Demencia senil 9a+ also in Margalef and he has also done several 9a's.

The 34 year old is however maybe most famous for all his Big wall first ascents although he made Action Direct, 9a already in 2000.

(c) Tim Kemple from when Iker opened the 500 meters Orbayu 8c (+) in 2009. Facebook

8B+ by Brion Voges  (14)

Brion Voges has done his fifth 8B+, Esperanza in Hueco Tanks. "Thought a lot about this boulder, fortunate to climb it." Picture blogging. Facebook

8b (+) OS by Mina Markovic ˇˇUpdate  (7)

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Markovic who has had a nice and steady progress on the competition scene over ten years resulting in winning the last Boulder WC event as well as getting the overall Lead title in 2011, has onsighted Hidrofobia 8b (+) in Montsant.

Interview is coming up and as a teaser Mina gives us the amazing story that she had a three weeks break before her trip to Spain and that her aim was just to onsight an 8a. Then her belayer told her to continue after the first anchor... so she just followed the quickdraws... See more as a comment. Facebook

8C FA by Dai Koyamada 

UKclimbing reports that Dai Koyamada has opened a new 8C, Shanbara at Toyota. "This problem is a sit down start version of Agartha, 8B+, and is called Shanbara. There are four moves in the roof before linking into Agartha." Facebook

8b+ by Stephanie Ko Pound  (2)

Click to Enlarge PictureStephanie Ko Pound has done her first 8b+, The Juice in Jailhouse. "So psyched! Really tough for me. Big moves on steep roofs to a powerful red point crux at the top."

Stephanie is a weekend warrior who has been working the route once a week since October. The 32 year old started to boulder in 2001 but six years ago she transitioned to ropes. "My next big project will be Big House. It gets the same grade as the Juice, but is harder. :) " Facebook

8b again by Maria Davies Sandbu (19) 

Maria Davies Sandbu has done Marroncita in Oliana, her fourth 8b of the month. The 19 year old has also onsighted her first 8a, Misha, still in Oliana. In the last World Cup, the Norwegian was #19. Facebook

9a again by Enzo Oddo (16) 

Planetmountain reports that Enzo Oddo has done Estado Critico, 9a in Siurana. Facebook

Onsight slaughter by Jan Hojer 

Jan Hojer has during the last week in Geyik Bayiri insighted 11 routes between 8a and 8b. In 2010, the 19 year old was #2 in the Euro Youth Cup but last year he focused on bouldering, winning one Euro Youth Cup and among the seniors he was #10 in the last WC. Facebook

8B's by Stefano Ghisolfi (18) ˇˇUpdate 8B+  (3)

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has during the last two weeks done nine 8A's and harder including two 8B's today in Varazze, Gioia stand and Alphacentauri. Prior to the Christmas break the 18 year old had only done two 8A's! In the Combined junior ranking Game, he is #2 after Adam Ondra.

Stefano is also a succesful competition climber in all three disciplines. The last four years has been #3, #3, #2 and #2 in the overall Euro Youth Cup and in 2011 he was #3 in Speed. In the Bouldering World Champion he was #25. (c) Elio Cacchio

Today the 18 year old did his third personal best in two weeks by Gandalf il grigro, 8B+ in Varazze. Portrait is coming up and tomorrow he is bouldering with C Core. Facebook

8c again by Tim Unuk (15)  (2)

Tim Unuk has done his second 8c, La teoria dell'8a in Sperlonga. In the Euro Youth Cup, the 15 year old was #2. Facebook

8c by Ciavaldini and Pearson 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Pearson reports that he and his girlfriend Caroline Ciavaldini have done Metaphysique des Tubes, 8c in Seynes on 2:nd Go. Caroline also did Biotop, 8b+ at Claret and James Guere d'Usure, 8c in Seynes.

"Over the next 2 months Caroline and I will be exploring new areas in Malaysia and Laos. We will take some photos and write a little report each week - like a little postcard." Facebook

8A by Alex Puccio  (7)

Alex Puccio starts 2012 by doing her 31th 8A or harder, Dark Art in Anston Stones. "did it in about 5 or 6 tries. Fun day out with good people! Good start to a new year. :)" Her boyfriend, the working class hero - see interview from Australia, Chris Webb-Parsons flashed it. Facebook

Another 8B+ FA by Graham 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham has opened his 19th 8B+ or harder Memory is Parallax in Elkland. In total, Dave has since 1999 recorded 426 boulders 8A and harder out of which 150 FA's. (c)

"The incredible "nickis" project. Took me a considerable amount of effort in between a couple voyages, and had to stick to it in some gnarly conditions. Amazing climbing with drop knees, smears, and small crimps. Looks kinda like Stained Glass, but its much bigger! SYKED!!! Facebook

Two 7C+ (8A) by Mirko Caballero (10) 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero has done Water Hazard and Dance the night away in Bishop giving both 7C+. The 10 year old has previously done three 8A's. Facebook

9a by Mathieu Bouyoud 

Mathieu Bouyoud has had some productive days in Santa Linya where he did Fabela pa la Enmienda, 9a one 8c+ and two 8b onsights. He finishes the game by being #4. Last year he opened two 9a's in La Balme. Facebook

8b+ OS again by Domen Škofic (17)  (3)

Domen Škofic has onsighted alea Borraka, 8b+ in Siurana and the 17 year old finishes the 2011 ranking game as #6. "Perfect end of the year! Tried also La Rambla and did it in 6 parts. Next time! Now let's go party!!! :D" Facebook

8c onsight by Klemen Becan  (1)

Klemen Becan reports on Facebook, "Nice beginning of the year. Another 8c a vista in Arcidona. Next time Orujo." (9a+) Last year, the Slovenian was #7 in the Boulder World Cup. Facebook

Andrada 2011 sum up 

Dani Andrada gives us the stats for 2011:
First Ascents = 49, 8c to 8c+/9a = 15, 8a or harder = 163 and some boulders up to 8B Facebook

9a (+) Magnus Midtbř 

Magnus Midtbř has done Directa Open your mind, 9a (+) in Santa Linya making 2011 his best year ever including being #4 in the world championship. Here he summarizes 2011 and looks forward as well as explain his training. Facebook

8A again by Kasia Pietras  (2)

Click to Enlarge PictureKasia Pietras has done her second 8A during the last two weeks, Gross's Roof in Cumberland. In total, she has done eight boulders 7C and harder during the last fortnight. Kaisa is showing good progress as she did her first 7C+ in August. Facebook

First 8c+ by Gareth Parry (38) 

Gareth Parry who has been doing World Cups the last 17 years and who won Arco Bouldering Rock Master in 2007 has done his first 8c+, Blomu in Santa Linya. His first 8c he did when he was 35 and the last month he has done another two. Climbing is just amazing? The answer on how it is possible to continue to progress being 38 is coming up :-) Coaching & Adventures with Gaz Facebook

Two 8a+ OS by Malin Holmberg  (5)

Click to Enlarge PictureMalin Holmberg has onsighted two 8a+ in Geyik Bayiri, Olympus Games and Colonist. During the last week, she has also onsighted six 8a's and it should be mentioned that these stats include three personal grades.

In 2011, Malin has also done two 8a cracks placing her own gear. In 2009, the Swede won the Nordic Lead Champion. Facebook

Gerard Rull's record recovery *Interview  (6)

Click to Enlarge PictureGerard Rull did snap his pulley as he was trying Aitzol, 8c in Margalef. Six months later, after surgery for the pulley reconstruction, he did it and since then he has been climbing harder than ever. During the last two months he has bagged three 8c+'s and two 8b's on-sight. * In this interview in Spanish you can see his 2 last months complete tick list. Facebook

8b+ by Helena Alemán again 

Helena Alemán has done her tenth 8b+, China Crises in Oliana. She has also previously done five 8c' and in the game she is #4. Facebook

9a by Sébastien Bouin again 

Beal reports that Sébastien Bouin has repeated Chris Sharma's 50 meter Era Bella, 9a in Margalef. Just some few days ago he did Complex du playboy, 9a/+ in Luberon. Facebook

9a+ by Enzo Oddo (16) 

Grimper reports that wonderkid Enzo Oddo has done La Rambla, 9a+ in Siurana. Alex Huber put it up as an 8c+ in 1994 and then Ramonet added an extension giving it 9a+. Later on, many have confirmed that the extension does not add so much in difficulty suggesting that Hubers FA was sandbagged. Facebook

Ramonet's 8c goes to 8c+ and then 8c+/9a or 9a  (4)

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque put up La Reina del Mora in Siurana as an 8c in 2008 which he did on his fourth try. Last year Nicolas Favresse repeated it suggesting 8c+, video. Yesterday, Dani Andrada (36) blogged about his third ascent calling it "at least 8c+/9a or 9a." (c) Victor Montilla. Facebook

8B+ and 8B by Gregor Peirce (19)  (1)

Gregor Peirce has done The Swarm, 8B+ and Direction, 8B in Bishop. "Soooo Good! I don't think there is a better boulder. V14 and V13 today! after a 6 hour drive. This one means a lot to me." Facebook

9a by Magnus Midtbř again 

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbř has done Fuck the system, 9a in Santa Linya. "Now I’m ready to try something harder!" This was the sixth 9a or harder for the norwegian who was #4 in the World Champion in 2011.

Interview where he describes also his training. Yesterday, his sister Hannah did Fabelita, 8c also at Santa Linya. More pics by Henning Wang on Magnus website. Facebook

8A+ by Katja Vidmar  (1)

Click to Enlarge PictureKatja Vidmar has done her first 8A+, Petting with an alligator in Maltatal. "Another arctic expedition to Maltatal. This time no snow on the top outs. Best Christmas present ever and one of the sweetest moments of my climbing life." Video

In 2008, Katja was #2 in two World Cups and in the only one she did this year, she was #4. Katja's sister Maja won the Lead World Cup in 2007. (c) Marko Bratina Facebook

9a/+ by Seb Bouin  (4)

Kairn reports in french that Seb Bouin has done his third 9a or harder by doing Complexe du playboy, 9a/+ in Luberon. Facebook

8c by Hannah Midtbř  (1)

Hannah Midtbř sister to Magnus has done her first 8c, Fabelita in Santa Linya which is her home crag this winter. In 2008, Hannah was #3 in the European Boulder Championship and in 2009, she was #2 in the Euro Youth Cup. Facebook

9a by Ben Spannuth  (2)

Ben Spannuth has done his second 9a, Golden Ticket in Red River Gorge. "World class, varied and interesting movement on perfect rock. Adam nabbed the gem of the gorge with this one."

In the comment, Ben discusses the static/dynamic technique. Facebook


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