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Iker Arroitajauregi - Fontainebleau 2014 
 

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Could Action Directe become 8c+ or 9a+? 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAction Directe was put up by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and become the first 9a after being upgraded some ten years later. Today it is considered very solid for the grade and in fact, during the last two years it has only been repeated by Alex Megos, although some 100 guys do 9a every year.

In ten years time, it would not be surprising if the climbers will think it is as hard to repeat as a 9a+ route. Another possibility is that a climbing wall manufacturer develops a system where it is easy and cheap to insert one and two finger pockets in the walls. Maybe one company also will start selling a duplica of Action Directe divided on three boulder walls, selling them to many gyms. If so, in ten years time, the community might think it is as easy to do Güllich's route as an 8c+ in France. Facebook

 
 
Canada WC without Sharafutdinov again  (15)
 

Dmitry Sharafutdinov who won the Boulder World Cup in 2013 and who leads this year will not participate in Toronto this weekend due to Visa problem. It has actually been the same Visa problem for several years now.

In total there are 40 female and 43 male scheduled to start. Live Streaming Saturday June 1 with semifinal starting at 11.00 (GMT-4) and the final at 17.00. Facebook

 
 
Chris Webb Parsons training 
 

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Shauna Coxsey bouldering in North Wales  (2)
 

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Niccolo Ceria bouldering in Åland 
 

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Boulder WC mid term report 2014 
 

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Maximum recruitment as quick and as gentle as possible  (3)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Rasmussen did get the tip from David Mason and Ned Feehally at the Västervik Boulder Meet last year to always bring a small wooden box in order to warm up more efficiently. "It saves my skin and I can prepare for my projects much faster."

It took Stefan just 30 min to build it it and it comes with both a rope and a fixed carabiner. Another option is to bring a some cams or some nuts and maybe you can place it directly under your project so you also practice the feet placement while warming up!

Taking it a step further you could actually bring some 15 holds in different shape and you could copy the crux moves in order to recruit the exact finger angle needed, without ruining the skin. Facebook

 
 
Alex Johnson 25 routes birth day challenge 
 

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Help us to improve the tick list data base  (2)
 

There are now more than 3 million ascents spread out on more than 6 000 crags around the globe that could help you to find the best climbs. You can add more crags and sectors to the data base by clicking on Add Routes/Boulders in the upper left corner.

You could also help us to correct spelling etc of the climbs. Just send a mail to jens@8a.nu and you will get a special log in. Thanks in advance :) Facebook

 
 
Adam Ondra EpicTV interview part 2 
 

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Where does Adam Ondra get his hair cut? 
 

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Belaying techniques and soft falls 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt is normally harder for a heavy person to belay a smaller climber. When your partner falls it is natural that you get afraid and "sit down" which is very bad as the impact of the fall gets higher. In order to avoid this, start with bending knees and stand up instaed and the impact will be reduced. Read full article Facebook

 
 
Tito Traversa Memorial 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe father of Tito Traversa who tragically died last summer in France reports, "Thanks to the usual group of friends who do not want Tito to be forgotten, a new initiative has resulted in Ivrea within the “Eporedia Active Days” (EAD), on 14 and 15 June.

Two beautiful days of sport, all together, young and old, as Tito would have liked, for the boulder contest "Tito Traversa Memorial". It would be nice if all the friends of Tito should meet here.

In addition, a very important thing: there will also be a collection of charity for children with cancer. More info in Italian Facebook

 
 
Muriel Sarkany does Punt-X 9a  (1)
 

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Ondra interview: Training, screaming and climbing style etc  (2)
 

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Adam Ondra's amazing 9a onsight video  (6)
 

Check out the great video where Adam Ondra onsights Il Domani 9a in Baltzola. Both the climbing and the video are sensationally good! The video includes also some comments from Adam. Facebook

 
 
Action Directe - The first 9a and the most famous route in the world  (14)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn order to give credit to the old school pioneers, Mammut wanted their athletes to reclimb six classics and it was Jan Hojer who got he most prestigious task, Action Directe. On the picture by Gerd Heidorn, who also took the legendary pics of Wolfgang, Jan is sticking the first crux move going from a one-finger pocket to a two finger pocket.

Wolfgang Güllich put it up in 1991 after years of projecting including specific training on his invention, the campus board. Originally he put it up as an UIAA XI, which at that time corresponded to 8c+/9a, but later it was upgraded to 9a. Wolfgang had previously also done the first 8b, 8b+ and 8c in the world. More info of the legend who died in a car accident in 1992.

Mammut has the great full story including the historical background, pictures, interviews and a video. Facebook

 
 
David Mason in Västervik 
 


Västervik Bouldering 2014: The Hourglass
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SHAUNA COXSEY AND KILIAN FISCHHUBER STORM INNSBRUCK BLOCMASTER 2014 
 

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Two suggestions for solving starting incidents 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn the aftermath of how Adam Ondra lost his victory in Innsbruck, as the referee said his both feet did not touch the yellow box, picture by Lezec.cz, there has been some discussion in regards of improving the rule.

In 2014, the rule was changed so you need also both feet on the markings before starting to move, in order to avoid dynamic starts. Lorenzo La Rosa suggests that also the wall itself can be "marked", in order to avoid situations like this.

"I think it would also be easier for the athletes to respect the rule if they can hit anywhere. Let's take Adam, he felt the impact but wasn't sure it was the hold (at least that's what he humbly said). If you can hit anywhere, once you feel the impact you are fine, you don't need to watch.

I think dynamic starts should be fine, as they are very natural to bouldering. We just have to make sure that nobody moves a hand before lifting the last foot off the ground. To achieve this, the rule of 4 points at a time (feet anywhere), might be a good one. But this is just my opinion."


Olmo Leon comes with the most simplified idea. " I would give just a warning (and had to start again) and not count that try as try, so it doesn't affect the global result. Second warning would count as a try..or something like that. Facebook

 
 
Ondra - Best male boulder comp stats 
 

Since 2010, Adam Ondra has participated in nine World Cups and Championships, out of which eight times, he has been Top-2. His worst result is #4. What is truly amazing is that seldom, Adam has done any exclusive indoor preparation the week before an event. Instead, he has several times, focused on doing amazing route challenges or just climbed/trained almost like normal, like lat week when he did some long 9a's out of which one onsight.

It should be noted that Anna Stöhr has the best statistics for competition climbers and that of the male, Kilian has 22 victories, but his general average result is not as good as Adam's. Facebook

 
 
Boulder World Cup after stage 4 
 

1. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov 315 - Shauna Coxsey 345
2. Jan Hojer 314 - Anna Stöhr 311
3. Kilian Fischhuber 234 - Akiyo Noguchi 265
4. Rustam Gelmanov 174 - Juliane Wurm 260
5. Gui-Gui Mondet 158 - Alex Puccio 190
Complete results

It is interesting to see that only two male have been Top-12 in all four rounds which could be compared with seven female. Facebook

 
 
Ondra: "I just made a stupid mistake and that's it"  (68)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has made a comment in the 8a forum where people have been discussing Ondra been called down, on the last problem, and therefore lost the victory. The new rule for 2014, says you can not start moving until both hands and feet are touching the defined starting holds. (c) Branislav Goga, who thinks the picture indeed shows that Adam touched the starting hold also with his right foot.

"I grabbed the starting hold, put my left foot on starting foothold, kicked with my right foot into an area where I expected to hit the foothold. I felt the impact, I thought that must have been the foothold and went for another move straight away. But I was warned by the judges that the start was not valid, as I didn't touch the foothold according to them.

Even though it seemed to me that I did touch it, as it could have seemed from the livestream as well, I talked with more witnesses who could see very well that I did NOT touch it. No injustice happened to me, I just made stupid mistake and that's it. Facebook

 
 
Fischhuber & Coxsey win in Innsbruck  (37)
 

In a great thrilling show, Shauna Coxsey and Kilian Fischhuber won in fronf of 3 500 spectators in Innsbruck. Adam Ondra was in the lead during the final and only due to a false start on the last problem, where he was called down by the referee, he lost to Kilian. Anna Stöhr were close to make the double again and she got highest on the last boulder without getting really close. Bronze were taken by Rustam Gelmanov and Akiyo Noguchi. It is noteworthy that none of the last 19 male semifinal winners, who started last in the final, have never won the final. Replay Facebook

 
 
Dani Moreno climbing 'El Priorato de Sión', 9a in Alquezar 
 

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8X8B part 2: Cameroni & Ometz 
 

8X8B part 2 from Giuliano Cameroni on Vimeo.

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Megos 10 days in Magic Woods 
 

Alexander Megos and Wiz Fineron Magic Wood 2014 from Powerhouse on Vimeo.

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Innsbruck WC  (12)
 

Complete results and here is a video. One strange thing from the male qualification was that in the first group you qualified to the semi Top-20 with 2 topps but in the second group such result made you #49. Instead you had to do 4 topps in seven tries which actually Adam Ondra got.

Watch the streaming on Saturday. Semifinal 12.30 - 15.30 and the final 19.30 - 21.30. Facebook

 
 
Work of Man 
 

Work Of Man from HEIGHT FILMS on Vimeo.

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Review - OR's Halogen Hoody 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMaybe you're looking for a jacket which combines lightness (377 g) and waterproofness (Pertex® Quantum) with maximum freedom of movements and breathability (Schoeller® in strategical spots), together with being aesthetic so that you can also use it in the city. If so, this is, in our opinion, one of the best options you can find in the market.

It's called Halogen Hoody by Outdoor Research and we've tested it during the whole past winter in order to come with this review article. Facebook

 
 
Jimmy Webb runs Amok 8A in Font 
 

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Nalle Hukkataival & Friends in Gallura Region, Sardinia 
 

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"Humorous competition like Stolbizm world championship" 
 

Stolbizm world championship from barsuk on Vimeo.

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156 participants incl Adam Ondra in Innsbruck 
 

This friday, 71 female and 85 male will do the qualification in the Innsbruck Boulder World Cup, which is a new record of participants. And to spicy things up, Adam Ondra, who is just back from a week of endurance climbing in Baltzola will challenge the strongest guys in the world.

Adam did his last Boulder WC in 2010, when he won overall. In total he has won three World Cup and in all events he did also win the semifinal which makes Adam also unique in this sense. In 2011, the Czech took the silver in the World Championship. Last year, he did a comeback in Lead, winning the first WC he entered. Facebook

 
 
Novato (61) projects an 8c  (1)
 

Novato is the father to Edu Marin, who has done six 9a's and who in 2006, won the Chamonix World Cup. Novato started to trad climb as a teenager and as his sons begun climbing he switched to sport climbing. Being 52 he did his first 8a and since than he has had steady progress in spite of only climbing outdoors and several injuries
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Below 4 hours a week = Top rope more 
 

Rock climbing is a very time consuming activity and if you just climb a couple of hours a week and still want to maintain or increase your level, most of the training should be done on top rope. It is very common that you tell your friends that they should lead more but that is often counter productive if you not at least climb four hours a week.

To get in better physical shape you need to climb as many meters and moves an possible and instead of doing one lead you can do two or three laps on the route during the same time. Spending long time on a route leading will get you pumped which also is counter productive for most who do not climb like 300 meters a week.

Often you need to lead to get out up the top rope. The most effective way in this case is to hang-dog to not start the day being pumped. Facebook

 
 
Grindelwald World Cup summary 
 

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Shauna Coxsey and Jon Hojer Smash IFSC Grindelwald!  (1)
 

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160 m MP in 15 min in Croatia  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Big Wall Speed Climbing in Paklenica started in 2000 where you should climb a 160 m 6c+ with five pitches as fast as possible. For safety reasons you must clip all bolts and no simul climbing.

Several celebs like Andrada, Mrazek and Lachat have taken part but local climbers have been pursuing the speed record quite aggressively, with the efforts culminating in 2014 - where 2 teams went below 16 minutes. The previous record was from 212 and 20.49.

Croatian "Hubers", as is the local nickname for brothers Jurica and Perica Levatic, managed to get the win after 3 month of intense big-wall-speed specific training, and set a new record of just 15 minutes and 16 seconds for the route. Facebook

 
 
Best Euro bouldering destination 
 

Based on 1 000+ unique votes, here are the best Euro bouldering destination.

53 % Fontainebleau
14 % Ticino
12 % Albarracin
06 % Austria
04 % Frankenjura
02 % Scandinavia, Peak District
06 % Other Facebook

 
 
'Novato' Marín (61) projects an 8c in Rodellar 
 

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Love life: A Joe's valley bouldering short 
 

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Slovenia Youth Climbing team 2014 
 

SYCT - Chironico/Cresciano 2014 from GRTA Studio | Rok Klančnik on Vimeo.

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Copenhagen bouldering comp 
 

CB CUP Afdeling 1 // copenhagen boulders from Copenhagen Boulders on Vimeo.

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8b+ trad on a sport route 
 

8b+ trad in der Pfalz from Christoph Beer on Vimeo.

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Winter climbing at Stolby 
 

Oneday from Oleg Khvostenko on Vimeo.

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Helmutant 9a Saustall by Michael Piccolruaz 
 

Helmutant (9a) Saustall/ Südtirol from Vertical Life on Vimeo.

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Three 9a's by Adam Ondra trained by Patxi  (10)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra continuous his rampage around Baltzola where he has done Ini Ameriketan, for which he suggest an upgrade to 9a+, the FA of Ira 9a and Psikoterapia 9a in Valdegobia.

In total, the 21 year old has now recorded 1 566 ascents out of which 96 climbs 9a and harder which is three times as many as the runner up on the list. It should also be noted that Adam is known for his stiff personal grading. (c) Aritz Gordo Perez

"After I came back from Spain in February, I started training according to Patxi Usobiaga training program, which included harder workouts than ever before. For two months, I climbed 6 days a week, multiple times in a day. I climbed, did pull ups, campused and TRX workouts. After these two months, I started focusing on quality, taking more rests and climbing less.

After three weeks of this regime I went to Basque country to check out if the training works. And it did pretty well! Now it is the time to start training again to be prepared for the World Cups."
On Friday, Adam will compete in the Boulder WC in Innsbruck.

Previously, Adam has said that he has not done any longer sessions of structured and systematic training, instead he has more or less just climbed. Patxi, who is one of the best competition climber in the history, is known for his super hard training regime. Kind of an interesting mix that might take climbing into a new era and standard. Facebook

 
 
GB Team selection 2014 
 

GB Climbing Team Selection 2014 from TheBigOnes productions on Vimeo.

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9a by Jon Cardwell 
 

Jon Cardwell has done his second 9a, Bad Girls Club in Rifle. "Great route to finally finish! Took 5 tries this year and a few days last July. Props to Joey Kinder for bolting and climbing this new school Rifle classic!" Facebook

 
 
9a by Said Belhaj  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSaid Belhaj has done Guerre de Nerfs i La Verrière after some six days of work. Some three years ago, Said snapped a pulley and did a surgery and he is now like 99 % recovered. Now he plans to try something really hard. Said lives in Sweden where he works as a professional musician but for climbing, he is a globetrotter. Facebook

 
 
9a by Thomas Neyer 
 

Thomas Neyer has done his first 9a, Hades in Nassereith Video "I tried the route for about 10 days in total and i'm pretty sure it's my hardest ascent to date. Hades offers quite steep and athletic climbing with no super hard moves but just one proper rest... Special thanks goes to Stefan Brunner who developed most of the routes at the crag!" Facebook

 
 
9a FA by Chris Zehani 
 

Chris Zehani has done his third 9a FA, Une epoque formidable in Orgon which took him some 30 days. It was bolted in 2004 and it is a 55 move "stamina monster". Facebook

 
 
First 8b+ by Heather Robinson  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHeather Robinson has done her first 8b+, Mon Pote Assis in Mt Potasi. "Oh my goodness! This send was a dream come true. Thank you Chris for believing in me and the countless belays. Super power endurance route. First female ascent!" Facebook

 
 
8b's by Philipp Gaßner (11) 
 

Philipp Gaßner has done two 8b's in Frankenjura, Plan B and Nose grind. The last time we saw such impressive ascents of a 11 year old in Frankenjura was Adam Ondra in 2004. Facebook

 
 
8b OS and 8c by Charlotte Durif  (5)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharlotte Durif has had an amazing first week of May having done Cade Conscience, 8c, and Entre les Lignes, 8b+, in Oppidum. She's also onsighted L'amiral du Goret, 8b, in Atac and redpointed Kairn.con, 8b, in Rurey.

The name refers to that Kairn.com website which accused her of being a liar claiming undocumented ascents.

Charlotte has one of the best onsight track records in the world with one 8c, four 8b+ and 19 8bs, the first when she was 15 years old. In 2006, she won the Euro Championship being 16 years old. The last WC event she won was in Chamonix in 2010, two weeks before she did the questioned 8c onsight. Facebook

 
 
First 8C by Dave MacLeod  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave MacLeod reports that he has done the second ascent of Daniel Woods Mystic Stylez, 8C in Magic Woods. "All in all I probably tried it for 8 sessions. I’m pretty sure I could have done it in 4 if the conditions had stayed cold."

Last month Dave did New Base Line, 8B+ also in Magic Woods. He has also done sport routes up to 9a but he is most famous as one of the most succesful UK trad climbers who has produced several training books and videos. Facebook

 
 
NY Times Top Story: Ashima Shiraishi (11) 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNY Times Top Story of today is a full length article about Asima Shiraishi who earlier this spring made Crown of Aragorn, 8B in Hueco. Only a few female have done 8B before but nobody as fast as Ashima (10).

"From Monday through Friday, she and Poppo take a crosstown bus to the West Side, then a D train to Brooklyn Boulders in Gowanus, where she practices from 4 to 7:30 p.m. Another hour of travel, and they are back home in Chelsea..." Facebook

 
 
9a FA by Daniel Woods  (4)
 

Climbing reports that Daniel Woods has done the FA of Mission impossible, 9a in Clear Creek Canyon. Instead of using a slash grade he says that it might be 9a+ as it is his hardest route ever. It took Daniel six days to do it and it was bolted by Jay Samuelson. Facebook

 
 
8B by Stefan Rasmuussen (40) and Gu 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Rasmussen has done his fifth 8B the last 12 months, Awake the Unkind, in Västervik which was set up by Guntram Jörg , "100 Star line, Best First Ascent I have ever done. Thx to Stefan! Pure climb with just a view little holds up a blank high wall. Really stunning line, cant be better !!!! New Projects to come !!!"

Gu is in Västervik for the fifth time and during the first week he has already done four 8B's. Totally, the austrian has done 32 boulders 8B and harder the last 12 months. Facebook

 
 
9a by Daniel Moreno  (8)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Moreno has repeated his first 9a, Era Vella in Margalef which was put up by Chris Sharma. Three years ago, Daniel did the FA by Supernowa, 9a. Facebook

 
 
8b+ onsight by Mikhail Chernikov 
 

Mikhail Chernikov has onsighted his first 8b+, Karizma in Misja Pec and he goes to #21 in the ranking game. Facebook

 
 
Firnenburg brothers (15 & 16) do 8A's again 
 

Ruben Firnenburg (15) and David Firnenburg (16) has done Walfänger, 8A in Frankenjura. Big brother also did Oldschool rocks which he gives a personal grade of 8A. Facebook

 
 
8a+ MP by Ciavaldini and Pearson 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Pearson reports that he and his partner Caroline Ciavaldini have done the first repeat by Aria a 350 m MP with two 8a+ pitches opened ground up by Pietro dal Pra. Detailed info and pics in the blog, "After a very, very long ferry back to the mainland, our time in Sardinia has come to an end, thankfully with a succesful ascent of our biggest project to date." Facebook

 
 
8A FA by Therese Johansen 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTherese Johansen has put up Popsicle, 8A in Oltedal. "The boulder really suites me well, steep on crimps. I did it on my fourth day. This sommer I plan to drive around and climb in the best areas of Norway. "More info at her blog, where she also reports that she has done one 8A+, video, and two 8A's the last six weeks. Video (c) Torstein Magnussen Facebook

 
 
8b+ flash by Matilda Söderlund (19)  (2)
 

Matilda Söderlund, who last month onsighted nine routes between 8a and 8b over ten days, has returned to Siurana where she flashed Kale Borraka, 8b+. She saw a friend climb some parts and she also did get the beta foir the crux. "Really, a super cool route. Long and steep with a crimp crux in the end. I was pumped on the last crux so it was really, "a muerte". Facebook

 
 
9a by Edu Marin 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdu Marin has done Era Vella, 9a in Margalef. "The route is really really nice and beautiful. I recommend it." (c) Pete O'Donovan, more pics at Edus blog.

How have you been training lately and what is your next plan?
I am trained by David Macia and I think that it is hard and very physical. I train on an average 7 hours a day, divided between a morning and an evening session. Next week I am going to a competition in Japan and then I will train hard to prepare for some spanish comps and the WC. Facebook

 
 
8b by Michaela Kiersch (17) 
 

Michaela Kiersch has done her first 8b, Ultra perm in Red River Gorge. "I am currently 17 and I live in Chicago. Psyched to get outside this year and out of school. Summer = more climbing. Facebook

 
 
9a by Tom Bolger  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTom Bolger has done an easier variation to Catxata, 9a+ calling it Catxasita, 9a in Santa Linya where he has been living for two years. "The next step in my plan is to climb more, work less and explore more areas.... after the summer my girlfriend and I are going to tour europe more living in our camper van, so psyched for that. Facebook

 
 
8C by Dave Graham  (2)
 

Dave Graham has done the second repeat of Paint it Black, 8C in RMNP. "A phenomenal roof opened by Daniel Woods! Powerful tension moves, and technical foot sequences, this boulder is a true challenge. I found this rig very powerful and fingery, but after 9 days of working it out, four of which I kept falling on this crazy foot swing, everything seemed to click today. Very majestic!! I love this boulder problem, and I think its an excellent addition to the circuit here here in RMNP. So syked to manage this one before my trip to Australia, and THANK YOU COLD FRONT AND MI AMIGOS!!!!!!!"" Facebook

 
 
New area by Graham: Wild Basin  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham has established four new boulders 8A and harder including The Grey, 8B+ in Wild Basin. "One of the best climbs I have done in the untied states. Pure, aesthetic, tall, and in a majestic valley. The line heads out a steep swell of compact stone, starting on crimps, then leading into technical toe hooks and compression moves, utilizing a faint rail. It ends with a very slopey lip encounter, and a sketchy mantel. Big thanks to Chad Greedy for discovering this beast, this boulder is legendary!"

Dave Graham has been a boulder pioneer for more than 10 years and he is the one in the world who has done most hard core FA. Facebook

 
 
8c by Alexandra Taistra 
 

Alexandra Taistra has done her fourth 8c, Kalliste in Archidona. "Wonderful route! Thank You Bernabe Fernandez to bolted it! Thank You Michal for patient and motivate me ;-D" The 30 year old is #7 in the ranking game. Interview is coming up. Facebook

 
 
Martin Keller 8C FA after 100+ days  (20)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMartin Keller reports in a very nice and long blog that he after 3 years and 100+ days finally has done the FA of Der mit dem fels tanzt, 8C in Chironico. "...once "impossible" looking line and by far the most funky, most crazy, most powerful, most delicate and hardest moves i have ever been able to link! i finally got my little bit of luck. the perfect day. the perfect go."

"And before i forget it, here is the grading-candy: for me the difficulty of "der mit dem fels tanzt" can be best described as about a 4-move-8B/B+ into a 15move 8B (or a 7move 8B+ into "einfisch/keinfisch 8A+/B"). the 6m-6A-slab-topout just adds some spice, but no real difficulty ;) (c)angelawagner.ch Facebook

 
 
Adam Ondra getting closer to the first 9a OS  (2)
 

Adam Ondra has done another trip to the Lleida area where he did Duele la Realidad 2R, 9a in Oliana. "Fell at the last move of the first pitch (8c+) while onsighting, lowered myself down and sent it the next day, onsighting the second pitch. Frustrating end of the trip, failed to finish off my ultimate project and I was extremely close to onsight this thing."

The 19 year old also did the FA of Joe-cita, 9a, a link up which he mainly did onsight or flash. Adam also did Airva Esa, 8c+ in Camarasa, "could be 9a quite easily". In total, he has recorded 1 365 routes in his scorecard out of which 59 are 9a or harder. Facebook

 
 
8b+ by Mirko Caballero (11) 
 

Mirko Caballero has joined the big group of kids having done God's own stone, 8b+ in Red River Gorge."Crazy!!!! The crux sequence felt really hard, probably v10! Soooo psyched to have sent it!!!!!!" As a boulderer, he has done four 8A and harder. Facebook

 
 
9a by Domen Škofic (18)  (1)
 

Domen Škofic has done his second 9a, Halupca 1979 in Misja Pec the day after he was among the last in the Log-Dragober Boulder World Cup. "Woow didn't expect it to happen so fast. Did it in 6th go. :)" The 18 year old is #4 in the 8a ranking game. Last year he won three Euro Youth Cups out of which one in boulder. Facebook

 
 
8b+ by Drew Ruana (12) 
 

DPMclimbing reports that 12 year old has done God's Own Stone, 8b+ in Red River Gorge. Earlier this spring Brooke Raboutou (10) and Cameron Hörst (11) have also done it. Two month ago Drew did his first 8b, Vicious Fish in Smith Rocks. Facebook

 
 
8b+ OS' but no 9b by Magnus Midtbø  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbø has onsighted two 8b+', El Percal in Tres Ponts and Guilty in Sant Llorenç de Montgai. His goal with the trip was to do the first repeat of Sharma's Neanderthal, 9b in Santa Linya. He linked it in two goes and was only stopped by some wet holds.

Now it is about time to focus on the competitions. I plan to do all the WC's this year. I also plan to go to Flatanger and to some other places in Norway where I have some projects. So I have plenty to do :) His training video has been watched 528 000 times in just over six months. Magnus blog Facebook

 
 
8C and 8B+ by Paul Robinson  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePaul Robinson reports to have done, over two days, the third ascent of Mirror Reality (8B+) and the first repeat of Daniel Woods' Paint in Black, 8C, both in the RMNP. ...one of the best boulders in the country and I was super psyched to have spent two amazing days in the park climbing on amazing rock in pristine wilderness.(c) Alex Khan One month old interview. Facebook

 
 
9a by Gorka Karapeto  (1)
 

Gorka Karapetro has done his third 9a, Begi Puntuan in Etxauri which was put up by Patxi Usobiaga in 2006. Facebook

 
 
8b+ by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (48)  (11)
 

Some two weeks ago we reported that Brooke Raboutou (10) had done God's Own Stone in Red River Gorge on her fifth go. Her mother Robyn (48), four times World Cup overall winner, needed some more time. Climbing is unique as you can be a world class climber for at least 40 years. Facebook

 
 
8A by Sylwia Buczek  (1)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSylwia Buczek has done her second 8A, Souvenir in Chironico. The 20-year-old Polish girl has had a nice progress the last three years. Facebook

 
 
9a by Daniel Fuertes 
 

Daniel Fuertes has done his third 9a, Era Bella in Margalef which was put up by Chris Sharma. "One of the most beautiful routes I have ever climbed! Thanks everybody! Vamos! The Spaniard is #4 in the world ranking game. Facebook

 
 
8c+ by Dylan Barks (17) 
 

Dylan Barks who was #2 in the US nationals last months has done his second 8c+, Lucifer in Red River Gorge. "Awesome route! Felt solid even though I was stung by a wasp mid route. 10 or so try. Glad to be done with it. Golden ticket maybe?" Last week he also did his second 8A. Facebook

 
 
8c+ by Johanna Ernst 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHeiko Wilhelm reports that Johanna Ernst, the lead World Cup winner of 2008 and 2009 and World Champion of 2009, has done Open your mind, 8c+ anf Fabelita, 8c in Santa Linya. The Austrians have been on a training camp around Lleida. Facebook

 
 
Another onsight strike by Ondra  (1)
 

Over the course of 4 days, Adam Ondra has onsighted one 8b+, two 8cs and one 8c+ (Bella Regis) in Trento. "Unsure about the grade, but could be somewhere in that region, except two moves, it wasn't fully on my limit." During the last year, Adam has onsighted seven 8cs and three 8c+s. Facebook

 
 
8b+ by Aleksandra Taistra  (2)
 

Aleksandra Taistra has done her 9th 8b+, Brujeria in La Muela. At the same crag she also did Mar de dudas, 8a+. Check her 8a Gallery for nice pictures or at her blog. Facebook

 
 
Two 8b OS by Piotr Schab (15) 
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has onsigthed his first 8b, Ramadan in Siurana. "Not so easy for on sight, beautiful line. So happy :)" The 15 year old has previously onsighted seven 8a+ and he is #4 in the junior ranking game. (c) Elias Holzknecht

Today Piotr onsighted Cubata+chupito 3 euros, 8b! Facebook

 
 
8c by Katharina Posch (17) 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatharina Posch jumps 8b+ and does her first 8c, Digital system in Santa Linya. "Nice route! The first part was really hard, the part after the jugs nice and not that hard. Really happy now!! ;)" Last year, the 17 year old, was #5 in the Lead World Cup after having made the podium three times. Facebook

 
 
8A by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk 
 

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done her eigth 8A Preparation H, in Hepburn. "Like being in FONT." Next week she is competing in the first boulder WC in China. Minas blog Facebook

 
 
8A (+) by Alex Johnson 
 

Alex Johnson has done Book of Nightmares, 8A (+) in Red Rocks. "Five days of effort. A wonderful birthday send!" During the last two months she has done four 8A and harder and in total 16. Facebook

 
 
8c by Barbara Raudner 39 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Raudner has done Fish Eye, 8c in Oliana. "50m really amazing climbing, the route was opened by Chris Sharma. The 39 year old did her first 8a+ being 31 and has continued her progress since showing that age is not an obstacle in climbing. More info and pics at her blog (c) Hannes Raudner-Hiebler Facebook

 
 
Second 8C for Nacho Sánchez 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureYesterday, Nacho Sánchez was finally able to climb his 1,5 years old project in Crevillente, Insomnio, for which he's proposed 8C. He tells us: "It's a conglomerated rock roof with 6 very hard first moves on undercut crimpers and pinches and another 4 'easy' final movements. The 5th move is the hardest by far, but for several months I had been falling on the 6th move, a dyno a bit aleatory. The last part of the problem I did some years ago. A year and a half ago I started trying it from the bottom and in the last few months I've been besieging it."



Nacho had previously already done another 8C boulder problem, 'Entropía', in Castillo de Bayuela (news and video here). Pic: Mallorca outside. Facebook

 
 
Paul Robinson Interview 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn this interview, Paul Robinson talks about his latest film Welcome to the Hood, training, grades, ethics and 9A etc.

I just started training the other day actually! It has been 2 years since I have really climbed inside. I really want to be in the best shape of my life for my trip to africa this summer so I plan to train really hard for the next 2 months! I am looking forward to training! I have gained a lot of finger strength and technique over the past few years of climbing outside and now I hope to add some more power with climbing inside to get to the next level in my ability! Facebook

 
 
9a again by Enzo Oddo (17) 
 

Enzo Oddo has done Pure Imagination, 9a in Red River Gorge. The 17 year old did his first 9a when he was 14 and totally he has done a dozen plus two 9a+. Facebook

 
 
Three 8a+ OS by Matilda Söderlund  (2)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund onsighted today two 8a+ in Margalef, Sarganta Killer and El Fustigador. Yesterday she onsighted Gigololo, 8a+ in Siurana. (c) Peter Renlund

Two days ago we reported about her 8b flash of Ramadan. "The flash was just by chans. I belayed a friend but he could not pass the crux 1/3 up. So I thought to just give it a go and try it but it turned out to be a bit more than that =)" Facebook

 
 
9a by Daniel Jung 
 

Daniel Jung has done Estato Critico, 9a in Siurana. "The first long route since a long time. funny, pumpy and really good climbing on the last meters :-)"The German has done five 9a's out of which, three the last six months. More in his blog. Facebook

 
 
Seven 8A's by Michael O'Rourke (17) in a week  (1)
 

Michael O'Rourke has had a great week sending seven 8A's in Joe's Valley. In the junior ranking game the 17 year old is #4. Facebook

 
 
8b flash and 8a OS by Matilda Söderlund (19)  (3)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund has during her first day in Siurana, flashed Ramadan 8b and onsigthed an 8a. To make it even more impressive, the last two months she has almost not trained any climbing because of a back muscle rupture. Last year she was #2 in the last Euro Youth Cup and this year, she will do some World Cups. Facebook

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