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Training-Log and Blogs have been moved  Facebook
 

Click on "Presentation - Settings" to reach Training-Log and Blogs.

 
 
Markus Bendler does old Alex Huber project  Facebook
 

Markus Bendler @ Seitensprung from Berni Kogler on Vimeo.

 
 
The grade of 3a routes should not be based on redpoint  Facebook
 

It is a well known fact that grades should be based on the red-point feeling, i.e. the best optimal sequences and beta. This is one of the reason for all the down grades climbs.

However, as the main reason for having grades is to help the climber to find a resonable challenge, the grades of the easiest climbs should gradually be based on onsight/flash instead of the redpoint beta, as this is how the beginner climbs.

In other words, if a 5a today is relatively hard to onsight as it has only one very tricky 5a solution, it should be upgraded. If not, the grade is not serving it's purpose to act like a guide for the climbers who mainly want to climb onsight.

 
 
9a+ FA by Alex Megos  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVertical Life Mag reports that Alex Megos has done a new link up in the Hollow Mountain Cave in Grampians, Wheelchair 9a+ starts as The Wheel of Life (WOF) but ends in Stimulation 8A+. WOF was set up by Dai Koyamada as the world' first 8C+ boulder. (c) Dorothea Karalus

Alex comments, "It’s hard to give it a grade. I think it’s not possible to give it a boulder grade, although it’s more a boulder then the Wheel of Life because it has no rest. Everyone calls the Wheel 9a and I think Wheelchair is harder then the Wheel, I would call it 9a+

 
 
Stimulation 8A+ by Miller  Facebook
 

Stimulation from Oliver Miller on Vimeo.

 
 
The FA of Move 9b (+) by Adam Ondra  (13) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra - Move - First ascent.mov from MadSkillz Media on Vimeo.

 
 
Romain Desgranges 8a up at 3 600 m altitude  Facebook
 

 
 
Manslaughter charges filed after Tito's death  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM has translated an article by the Italian newspaper La Reppublica Toriona which says that the public prosecutor has charged manslaughter against five people after the Tito Traversa accident. On July 5, the twelve year old died after falling some 40 meters due quick draws assembled wrongly.

"The owner of the company that produced the rubber keeper is charged for not including proper instructions for assembly in the packaging.

The owner of the gear shop that sold the rubber keepers is charged.

The manager of the club that organized the trip and two instructors that were on site are charged for failing to control the correct assembly of the equipment.

A sixth person, a relative of the girl that lent the equipment to Tito, is still under investigation but not currently charged"

 
 
Stöhr and Sugimoto win in Munich  (9) Facebook
 

Anna Stöhr finished of her record season by winning her seventh event out of eight in the Boulder World Cup. In the only one she did not win she was #2. During the 25 year of World Cups, no winner has been as superior as Anna. Among the male, Rei Sugimoto got his first victory. The difficulty level set by the chief route setter was perfect through out the whole event.

1. Anna Stöhr AUT - Rei Sugimoto JPN
2. Alex Puccio USA - Thomas Tauporn GER
3. Shauna Coxsey GBR - Rustam Gelmanov
Complete results

 
 
130 athlets in Munich Boulder Cup  Facebook
 

The eighth and last stage of the Boulder World Cup will take place in Munich this weekend and a record high of 130 athlets are scheduled to compete. Chief route setter is Manuel Hassler.

Both Anna Stöhr and Dima Sharafutdinov have already secured the overall title so maybe the most attention is whether Kilian Fischhuber will be able to be #2 overall as he has been every year since 2004. Currently, Kili is #5 but as he has missed one event he is #3, only 13 points behind Jakob Schubert, if you count all but one.

Saturday: 10.00 Male & 15.30 Female
Sunday: 11.30 Semi & 18.30
The whole event will be streamed.

 
 
9a by Seb Bouin in Flatanger  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureErik Grandelius, who lately has done two 8c+ in Flatanger, reports that Seb Bouin has done A Little Badder 9a in Flatanger, after two weeks of projecting, which for 40 metres shares the 9b FA Move from Adam Ondra. (c) Bealplanet

The three guys have been climbing together for a month and the new trick is to just do one or two pushes every second day. During the endless resting periods they have been "chossploring", which means "to find just another overhanging sand quarry that although looking nice from distance is utter shit.

 
 
9b FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra comments his FA of his 50 metres long Move 9b in Flatanger. "Took me 2 weeks and half, while feeling strong and with bomber conditions. This route was hard for me, one my hardest, though Change is probably harder to repeat, as it fits my style WAY MORE." Waiting for a picture, check out his trend diagram showing his continous progress for 12 straight years. If Adam wants this to contine we are talking 9c and 9a+ onsight within a year or two :)

Erik Grandelius comments, "Excluding the knee bars, Seb Bouin uses 15 minutes for the same section where Adam uses five and it certainly does look like Adam is comfortable doing a 7a.

Every attempt and move has a nice flow for Adam. His climbing is always very close to perfection except for some minor mistake in grabbing the crux hold. He seems to routinely access a deep flow in his climbing, something that for instance I and I guess most climbers only experience occasionally a couple of times per year.

What I mean is that if he has a chance to do something, he does it. Adam has a detailed plan for everything. He even created a wodden edge in the barn so he could recruite his crimper before every attempt.

 
 
Essentials Of Climbing: Bouldering  Facebook
 

Essentials Of Climbing: Bouldering from EASTERN MOUNTAIN SPORTS on Vimeo.

 
 
Rock Master 2013 a Trophy for Tito Traversa  Facebook
 

Planet Mountain reports that, "Rock Master has decided to create, as of this year, a trophy dedicated to Tito Traversa, the promising young Italian climber who died aged 12 after a climbing accident at Orpierre in France last July.

 
 
One more 8A+ by Mirko Caballero (12)  Facebook
 

Mirko Caballero (12)

 
 
Katha Saurwein does 8A+, 8A and 7C+  Facebook
 

Katha Saurwein: El Gauhara 8A+, Falsche Götter 7C+ etc. from jorg verhoeven on Vimeo.

 
 
Austrialia 1 from Jamie Emerson  Facebook
 

Australia I from b3bouldering.com on Vimeo.

 
 
Loopo Light - The worlds lighest harness  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture169 grams are the weight of the Edelrid Loopo Light (S) when you have removed the gear loops. It has the innovative double tie system with out a belay loop and it fits in your pocket. The first target group is skiers and hikers who maybe want to rapell down etc.

With the very wide super breathable legs loops it is as comforatble as any normal sport climbing harness which normally weighs double as much. Do you want to optimize your ruck sack for the one hour approach to Céüse as well as not carrying any extra grams on your redpoint project on Cascade, this is it :) Compared to the sport climbing harness Loopo, it is bigger in size probably in order to fit thicker trousers for the hikers.

 
 
Atmosphere and Cyrus from Edelrid  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAtmosphere is the latest high innovative ultra light sport climbing harness from Edelrid. The wide leg loops are 3D shaped and at the back, the string is attached to two points to spread out the load making it more comfortable. The tie in point has an abrasion protector for extra durability.

"3D-Vent Technology: unparalleled fit and wear comfort via 3D construction, optimal pressure distribution and maximum air permeability." More info.

Cyrus is a similar harness but with even wider leg loops making it, "Probably the most comfortable harness money can buy." Still at 354 grams, it is lighter than most sport climbing harnesses.

 
 
9a by Ramonet again  Facebook
 

Ramón Julian Puigblanque has done Centre village 9a and La proue debridée 8c+ in La Roche De Rame and he is #2 in the ranking game. He is also #2 in the Lead WC 2013 and that was his position also in 2012. Overall, he is the best male competition climber in the world, during the last ten years.

 
 
TNF - Edge Pants  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdge Pants from The North Face are super comfortable and here are some info of the cotton trousers that are made to move and articulate withe the body whilst climbing.

" An elasticized waistband embossed with Never Stop Exploring™ and an additional waistband cord ensures that the pants fit securely whilst offering freedom of movement. A crotch gusset and knee articulation provide extra material for reach and stretch, and hem drawcords allow the trousers to be pulled in around the ankle for a snag-free climb.

 
 
Japan and Austria dominate Youth Worlds  (3) Facebook
 

94: Dmitry Fakiryanov RUS - Magdalena Röck AUT
96: Naoki Shimatani JPN - Jessica Pilz AUT
98: Stefano Carnati ITA - Aika Tajima JPN
Complete results

Dmitry Fakiryanov was the only one to top out the final route and he was together with Jessica the only ones to defend their victory from last year. Overall, Austria dominated as always and this year also Japan did get four medals. Surprisingly, Canada did not get anyone in the finals and USA did not get any medals but five finalists.

The Youth World Championship was a great success including the IFSC broad casting seems to be the general opinion. Watch the Lead finals.

 
 
Youth Worlds streaming 01:30 Euro  Facebook
 

 
 
7c+ (8a+) MP onsight by Sasha: UPDATE  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian has given Camillotto Pellissier a personal grade of 7c+ on her scorecard. "It's probable that this route is not an 8a+ as originally graded. We climbed each pitch and didn't find the hardest pitches to be harder than 7c+ or so because the climb was wet and holds broke and it was still possible. Though at the same time, in my opinion it is hard to equate grades of a big wall in the Dolomites to sport climbing grades. The experience is much different and the one is much more taxing than the latter.

Yesterday Sasha reported on Facebook, "I just got down from the top of the mountain! I onsighted "Camillotto Pellissier," an alpine multipitch 8a+ (7b+-7c-8a+-8a-7a-8a+-6c...etc to the top of Cime Grande) in the Dolomites." It took them 8 hours to climb and two hours to walk down.

"Edu Marin and I traded off leading pitches versus climbing with the backpack that had red bull water and food. Climbing in the Dolomites is a whole new venture for me. I am constantly outside of my comfort zone because you are climbing on old pitons, spread apart, and acutely aware of how loose the rock is.

So I lead onsighted the topo 7c- 8a - 8a+, 6c piches and climbed the others with the backpack but 2nd. I will add some personal grades tonight."

 
 
The North Face Verto Micro Hoodie  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureI have just used it for one week but it is already my favorite jacket. It feels cold once you put it on and I am acually using it now, working indoors. Once I start walking it has kept me warm at 10 degrees with just a T-shirt under and light rain has been no problem. It is like a mixture of a light rain jacket and a down west. It is super quick to stuff and it is the perfect jacket I have always wanted to have in my climbing bag, no matter if I am climbing on Kalymnos or in Sweden. My only remark is that it seems small in sizes.

Complete info:"The North Face® Men’s Verto Micro Hoodie is a lightweight, technical climbing jacket that combines the best of fabrics and down insulation. From the top down, the elastic bound hood has extra insulation in the neck that extends the comfort range. The baffled chest is packed with 800 fill down that is wrapped in a light and rugged Pertex© nylon shell. The arms are a combination of wind shell and stretchy, more breathable underarm panels with FlashDry™ technology and accelerated drying time.

It stuffs into its own alpine pocket for carrying and storage. The result is an extremely warm and compressible mountain jacket that delivers performance where it is needed. The North Face® Men’s Verto Micro Hoodie is a game-changing Summit Series™ down climbing jacket that is bred from athlete input and expedition testing.

 
 
Rubén Díaz in the FA of 'Aurora Sit', 8B+ in Hoyamoros  Facebook
 

 
 
Blocs of Spain Vol 2 Barcelona  Facebook
 

 
 
Several 8A and 8A+ by the Raboutou's (50 - 12 - 15)  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRobyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, the best competition climber in the world between 1989 - 1995 and since than a succesful junior trainer through the ABC for Kids, has been in Magic Wood with her family. Showing that age does not count in climbing, Brooke (12) did three 8A's including Pura Vida 8A+, Shawn (15) did several 8A and 8A+' and the 50 year old mother did two 8A's. On the picture by Rainer Eder, Brooke does Pura Vida 8A+.

How much do you train and how is it possible to continue to progress being 50+?
I try to climb two days a week, sometimes three. I don't think it's about the hours but more about motivation. The kids also motivate me so it's a group effort.

 
 
'You are just a bolt clipper'  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAndrew Bisharat, the Editor at Large at Rock and Ice, has through his blog, Evening sends written an article saying that you can only define yourself as a "Sport Climber", if you take it so seriously so you can spend at least a month trying to redpoint at your personal limit. If not, you are only a "Bolt Clipper"! (c) Peter McBride

"The first approach, probably the most common, is to just go to a beautiful crag with your friends and spend a casual day ticking off climbs in the sun. Maybe you’ll fall. Maybe you’ll play around on something above your hardest redpoint. Maybe you’ll even try to send a route or two that day.

This is all good fun, but this isn’t what I call sport climbing. This is bolt clipping.

 
 
The Hörst' brothers  Facebook
 

The Send Bros - Teaser One from Three Peak Films on Vimeo.

 
 
Magic Wood by Dave von Allmen  Facebook
 

Arkanum - Magic Wood from Dave von Allmen on Vimeo.

 
 
TNF Unearthed - Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

 
 
TNF Unearthed - Alex Honnold  Facebook
 

 
 
7C+ FA by Petter Ulmert  Facebook
 

 
 
Youth Worlds in Canada  Facebook
 

Watch the live streaming from the Youth World Championship in Canada which starts 18.20 Euro Time. Complete results

 
 
Sisu Masters in Finland 5/10  Facebook
 

 
 
Rocklands - 2013  Facebook
 

 
 
How to rest for redpoint  Facebook
 

Climbing has an interesting article how to rest for redpoint by Dave Wahl which is really interesting but the first point how long time to rest for sport climbers, I think, is misleading as it says, "A good starting point is to rest about 20 minutes between burns."

As long as you have been pumped, you should rest much longer than 20 minutes. Adam Ondra often rests more than an hour between burns especially if he has been pumped several times during the day.

It is a general problem that climbers and boulderers rest to little. The contra diction is that the more you rest, the more you will be able to climb once you are on a climbing trip.

 
 
Sasha Digiulian blogs about a new "Bellavista" in her climbing career  Facebook
 

Sasha Digiulian has written a long nice story about her epic ascent and descent from the ten multi-pitch Bellavista, 8c.

"After looking around for the place to head down the mountain and failing to find it, I realized that I had some battery left on my phone and cell service. We called Alex Huber (the first ascensionist of the route and climbing legend) and asked him how to get down. He told us that it was a difficult trail and dangerous trail down and recommended we sleep at the top.

We were so wet and cold. Standing in the howling wind at the top, we thought this was crazy. Surviving the night at the top in our condition sounded like a feat in itself. Though, after searching for another two hours for the way down, we realized that Alex was right. Every way we walked, we faced a perpetual dark drop off the side of the tower. Down climbing was perilous because the rock is so fragile and we could only see what was in front of us through the light from our headlamps.

Exhausted from the long day and the mental battle, we dozed off for about two hours shivering on a rock. At about 530am, morning dawn lit up the mountain and we optimistically continued the search down. We were frozen and tired. A warm shower, sleeping bag, and hot cappuccino sounded like heaven.

After about two hours, we were back in Refugio Auronzo. Each shower is 5 euros and lasts about 5 minutes. I bought three showers!

Climbing Bellavista opened a new door of possibility for me. Edu taught me how to use a lot of new big-wall gear, I realized the capacity of human suffering is without boundaries, and we accomplished a long-time dream of mine. We also did all of this much sooner than I anticipated!

 
 
Sandbag = Upgrade  Facebook
 

Climbing features "sandbagged" routes and crags in their latest issue. Normally, sandbagged routes are less climbed so it is nice to promote high quality but why not also upgrade them?

If the experienced guys do know that the grade is totally wrong it seems can of silly to continue to use the sandbagged grade. OK, if it is an entire area it is rather easy also for newcommers to get the picture but if it is a high quality rated trad route, it is like misleading and it can potentially be dangerous.

 
 
Head First - With Joe Kinder  Facebook
 

Head First - With Joe Kinder from Gregory Packs on Vimeo.

 
 
Kalymnos from the AIR  Facebook
 

 
 
Bellavista 8c MP by Sasha Digiulian  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian reports on Instagram that she has done Alex Huber's famous multi-pitch Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Italian Dolomites which he put up in 2001. The ten pitches are graded; 7b, 6c, 6a+, 7a+, 7b, 8c, 8a, 7a, 6c, 6b.

"After climbing through a big storm for the final pitches, and spending a bitter cold, wet night at the top of Tre Cime Oeste, I'm down and happy to report the First Female ascent of Bellavista, 8c, a 2-year dream of mine to climb!" Sasha climbed the route together with Edu Marin.

 
 
Paige Claassen doing Rolihlahla 8b (c)  Facebook
 

 
 
Krnjacha in Serbia - Future destination!  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSlobodan Mazalica shares some info of a potential great climbing destination in Serbia - Krnjacha. "Mostly I am the only one who drills here, usually from the ground up, and mainly I do everything for orginizing competitions including building field toilets :D. It makes me happy just to see people climb there :)

Krnjacha is a place in Serbia close to the border with Monte Negro and Bosnia and Hercegovina. It is a small rural village and not many people live here. The nature is still intact. People there are living the old ways. Most of them are farmers and loggers. People here are nice and willing to help.

Closest to the camp (50 meters) there is a small wall called Ponor. It is 15 meters high with good quality rock and 20 routes mainly up to 7a+ but with a great potential for many harder routes, see picture.

10 kilometers from the camp there is the Sutjeska gorge with several big walls but only one have prepared routes. It is a 80 meters overhanging wall with nice features on it. It is close to the road. This wall is oriented nort-west and it is in the shadow most of the day which makes it a perfect summer destination. We have put up 40 routes here and some of them are up to 25 meters. Many more routes can be set up and extensions and multi-pitch climbing are possible.

On the other side of the road up in the hill there is even biger wall. 600 meters wide and at some points more than 100 meters high wall is hidden in the forrest and can only be seen from one spot. It is a versatile wall with overhanging parts, roofs, slabs. It is oriented north and it is perfect to climb even on the hotest summer days. There are no routes here but from the next year we are planning to open this beauty.

Opposite to this wall there is a massive 300 meters high wall perfect for alpine climbing and from easy to hard multi-pitches. Still not a single route has been made or climbed here.

There are even more walls in this area which are also worth to mention but it would take a lot of time and space.

 
 
Pearson & Ciavaldini: Zembrocal expedition  Facebook
 

 
 
TNF Kalymnos Festival Line-up for Euro 15 000  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe North Face Kalymnos Festival will take place 10 - 13 October and here is part of the impressive line up: Megos, Moroni, Fischhuber, Woods, Perason, Stöhr, Digiulian, Söderlund. They will compete for Euro 15' on 4 + 4 routes on a new sector.

"The new sector for the Pro competiton it's an amazing natural amphitheater where the athletes will compete on a different climbing styles: overhangs with tufa, short boulder routes or vertical walls.
The sector is visible from the main coast road and by some marathon's sector. 20 minutes for the approach by easy path."


Here you can pre register for the Open and Big Marathon and here is a video teaser. Like last year, 8a will run a scorecard competition lottery for a free travel and accommodation for two persons.

 
 
Psicobloc DWS summary  Facebook
 

 
 
Climbing Marketing Manager at The North Face  Facebook
 

"We are currently looking for a Jr. Sports Marketing Manager for our Outdoor category (Climbing and Mountaineering) in our European headquarters. The role includes managing the EMEA Global Athlete Team, efficiently planning Team product allocations and distributions per season, organising Team expeditions & events, and much more. Read the full job role description and send your application through if you are the right candidate here: www.vfc.com

 
 
Product news Friedrichshafen - Ropes/Hardware/Harnesses  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIgnacio Sandoval Buron, editor for the spanish site since 2002, represented 8a on the trade show in Friedrichshafen.

Ropes: The ropes are thinner each year; we don’t know how thin they can make them! The most stricking thing for us was the ‘Gully’ from Beal for multi-pitches (7,3 mm) and the ‘Corbie’ from Edelrid (8,6 mm and the three homologations (single, double and twin); both were awarded by the fair jury. Petzl enters this market with a full collection of ropes!

Hardware: The thing that most struck our attention was the new DMM quickdraws, the Edelrid belay apparatuses, the Black Diamond helmets, the new crash pad with an innovative carrying system by Monkee and some other companies with anti-twist systems for their locking carabiners...

Harnesses: It seems their future lie in less thickness in the leg loops and hip belts and lighter products, both for sport climbing and for multi-pitches. Some of the brands working in that way are Edelrid, Petzl and Beal (the latter having started to produce also more stuff like headlamps, helmets, etc.). After the ‘Realization’ short with integrated harness, Mammut will come with a trouser with the same system.

 
 
 
FA explorerer Nalle Hukkataival  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNalle Hukkataival has recorded 27 boulders 8A and harder he has done this autumn including 13 FA's. The Fin has put up 20 boulders 8B and harder the last seven years around the globe. (c) Keith Ladzinski - FA of Parallel Lines, 8A in Grampians.

Nalle was an active competition climber until 2008 and in 2005 he was #5 in the world champion and in 2007, he got the silver in the European champion.

 
 
8b+ trad by Yuji Hirayama (41)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureYuji Hirayama reports on Facebook, "Back from Italy. I did the Green Spits (I think it's more like 8b+ with placing gears) second go! Short trip but great satisfaction". Yuji is one of the true legends who won the World Cup in 1998 and who has been one of the best onsight and also big wall climbers in the history.

Green Spit is a 12m horizontal roof crack based on hand, fist and finger jams. In 2003, Didier Berthod chopped the bolts and climbed it on pre-placed gear giving it 8b+. Two years later he did it clean.

 
 
8c+ OS by Ramonet  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamón Julian Puigblanque has had some great time in Rifle after the Lead WC in Boulder, onsighting four 8b's and The Crew. It was originally 8c but then a hold break making most suggest an upgrade to 8c+. It should be noted that nobody has previously onsighted harder than 8b in Rifle, see more info as a comment.

The 159 cm tall Ramonet with arms hanging down to his knees is #3 in the IFSC world ranking and #2 in the 8a game. He won the world championship in 2007 and in 2011. (c) Toni Roy

The world's first 8c+ onsight was done by Patxi Usobiaga. In 2011, Adam Ondra has done seven 8c+ onsights.

 
 
8B+ FA by Nalle Hukkataival  (25) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNalle Hukkataival blogs about his FA of Circus Elephant Syndrome, 8B+ in Finland. "In my opinion 8B+ is HARD and I intend to keep my line with the 8C grade, which I still view as cutting-edge until something a notch above the current bouldering level gets climbed.

However, the way 8C has been shifting again lately, this grade may not correspond too well. Either way, Circus Elephant Syndrome is likely the hardest boulder problem in Finland and a world-class shoulder strength testpiece! I'm very psyched that I finally got it done!!!

 
 
9a by Magnus Midtbö  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbö has repeated Nordic Flower, 9a, in Flatanger. The route was established just over a month ago by Jorg Verhoeven.

"I’m not sure about the 9a grade, but on such a beautiful route I don’t thing the grade even matters. Without doubt the most beautiful route I have ever done!" More pictures at MagnusMidtboe.com, as well as comments on the FA on Verhoeven's blog.

 
 
8A+ FA by Rudi Moroder (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Rudi Moroder has done the First Ascent of Cold Front, 8A+ in Pontives. "Super boulder, really technical; definitely my hardest to date." In the combined junior game he is #3. Full story at Rudimoroder.it

 
 
8B's again by Guntram Jörg  Facebook
 

Guntram Jörg is on the run having done another two 8B's, Vecchia Leone and General Disarray in Brione. In the last month he has done five 8B's and a 8B+ (C) and he has jumped to #9 in the game.

 
 
5 star 8c+ FA by Gabriele Moroni  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabriele Moroni has made the FA of Bella Regis, 8c+ in Trento. "Best route i've ever bolted! perfect line! Its about 40moves long with a small rest before the last boulder, the resistence crux. The route follows a logical line on a big roof prow".

During the last year, Gabri has opened 10 routes 8a or harder mainly around Trento and he has still many projects to be done.

 
 
8B by Niccolò Ceria (18)  Facebook
 

Niccolò Ceria did give himself a nice 18 year birthday present by doing General disarray, 8B in Brione. In total, he has done nine 8B or harder and he did his first when he was 16 year old. He is #2 in the junior game. Video of the ascent.

 
 
8B+ (C+) by Benjamin Cossey  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBenjamin P. Cossey has done Dai Koyamada's 60 mover The Wheel of Life in Grampians giving it 8B+ although it was set up as an 8C+. During the last week, Ben has also done another two boulders in the Hollow Mountain Cave originally graded 8B.

In the beginning of the 00-ies, he put up several 8c's in Blue Mountains but lately he seems to have more focused on bouldering.

 
 
8a trad MP by Mayan Smith-Gobat  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMayan Smith-Gobat has done Salathe Wall in Yosemite which means 35 pitches up to 8a on trad gear. In 2009, she climbed an 8c in Ceüse but the last year she has been focused on Yosemite climbs.

"Every hand jam felt amazing and the climbing flowed – It was an incredible feeling reaching the top of the Headwall, free from the ground, with only a couple easy pitches to the top. A total sense of elation, release of tension and relief.

Then slowly the emptiness set in, the Salathe has been a huge part of my life for the last year, and there was almost a sense of sadness – kind of like saying good bye to a great friend and teacher." Mayanclimbs.com

 
 
8b+ by Monique Forestier (38)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMonique Forestier has done Tom et je ris 8b+ in Verdon which is a 60m tufa route. Prior to having a baby three years ago, she did four 8b+ in Blue Mountains.

Robbie Phillips says: "The whole aspect of this climb with it’s limited time to be climbed (between 7am – 2pm), massive walk in, ab in approach to start of route, hanging belay, mega long run-outs, technical nature of the climb and difficulty of working the route...". (c) her husband Simon Carter, "Certainly one of the most stunning lines I've ever seen..." Check out his new Coffe Table Book.

 
 
8B+/C by Dai Koyamada  Facebook
 

UKC reports that Dai Koyamada has opened another 8B+/C, Daedalus direct in Sustenpass.

 
 
8c by Conny Matthes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureConny Matthes has done her first 8c, Powerplay, in Frankenjura. "Long and hard work did it in spite of finger injury."

Conny has previously done two 8b+'s and she has had continuous progress since 2004 when she did her first 7b+.

 
 
Two 8a's onsights by Matilda Söderlund (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund has onsighted her first two 8a's, Rita del belvedere and Calabruix also graded 8a+ in Montgrony. The last weeks in Spain she has also onsigthed four 7c+.

The 19 year old and 175 cm tall swede is also a successful competition climber and she was #6 in the last Youth World Champion. In the last Euro Youth Cup she was #3.

 
 
8c+FA by Jonathan Siegrist  Facebook
 

Jonathan Siegrist blogs about his FA Shadowboxing, 8c+ in Rifle which was bolted long time ago by Nico Favresse. "It's the big boys version of 'Living in Fear' - no knee-pads, no valuable resting and a complete pallet of stylistic challenges."

 
 
Magic Wood slaughter by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra had a very productive weekend in Magic Wood, finishing off Practice of The Wild 8C, which was put up by Chris Sharma in 2004. He comments, "3 days in total, 1 day in terrible conditions, another one while being tired, very hard to say concerning the grade, easier than In Search of time lost, but harder than the rest of other 8B+'s."

The 18 year old also made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's three-weeks-old Dark Matter 8B+/C and Remembrance Of Things Past 8B+. He also did another four 8A+'s. It could be noted that during the weekend it was almost summer temperature!

 
 
8C FA by Daniel Woods  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCourtney Sanders reports that, "Today Daniel (Woods)climbed the FA of the old Muttertag Sit project, naming it Mystic Stylez. He is comparing it to the difficulty of Warrior Up, 8c in Lincoln Lake. It is difficult to grade because it is only a few moves, but the break down is a 2 move 8B into a one move 8A. For now it is going to stand at 8C." This was the 8th 8C by the 22 year old.

 
 
8c by Muriel Sarkany (37)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany has done her fourth 8c, Last soul sacrifice, in Gorges du Loup. She is now #2 in the 2011 routes ranking game. The 37-year-old has won 17 World Cup comps, has been the Overall winner five times and was the World Champion in 2003.

"I began climbing at 16 year old and 1 year later I was starting competitions. I found a lot of pleasure doing that, I won all the titles (world champion, European champion...). And now, I decided to stop competitions and just take pleasure in rocks ;-)"

 
 
7C+ (8A) for Maria Davies Sandbu (20)  Facebook
 

Maria Davies Sandbu has done Down Under, 7C+ in Magic Wood where she also did four 7C's during the last three days. Three of the nice boulders have previously been graded 8A.

 
 
8b+ FA trad by Peter Kamitses  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePeter Kamitses has made the FA of Oppositional Defiance Disorder, 8b+ trad in Silver Lake. "Steepest baddest hardest raddest Trad pitch I've ever tried...very different placing gear on lead vs. toproping... Big runouts but solid gear... Stoked it dried out enuff again after Irene." In 2008, Peter opened China Glide, 9a in Rumney. Climbing has a small interview.

 
 
8c+ FA by Piotr Schab (15)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has done the FA of Parowa, 8c+ in Pochylec which is a 27m and 10 m overhang link up of a 8b into an 8c without rest.

The 15 year old who was #5 in the last Youth World Championship is 152 cm and 39 kg. Piotr has previously onsighted two 8a+ and he is #5 in the junior ranking game.

 
 
9a by Ben Spannuth  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBen Spannuth who had 8b+ as personal best before the road trip to Spain has done Era Bella, 9a in Margalef which was set up by Chris Sharma.
"Full mental battle after falling off the top then failing to get back through the crux. when dani andrada yells venga you climb a muerte. back to the tufas!"

 
 
8B+ by Dai Koyamada  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada reports that he has done the first repeat of Deadalus, 8B+ in Sustenpass. (c) Angela Wagner. On the same day he also did Rêve de faire.

Dai (35) has been on the cutting edge ever since he stopped competing in 2000. His best WC result was #4 in Kranj 1998. The 165 cm tall, has put up more than a dozen 8C boulder and The Wheel of Life, 8C (+) and Hydrangea, 8C+. When it comes to route climbing he has done several 9a's including Action Directe.

 
 
Three 8b+ by Andrea Szekely  Facebook
 

Andrea Szekely has had a great trip to Rodellar where she in spite of a broken thumb did three 8b+, Geminis, Ixeia and Maskoking second go, "another route that goes thumbless! una cueva muy chula".

Her first 8b+, she did when she was 18 year old. In Rodellar, she also onsighted two 8a's.

 
 
8A (7C+) by Thomasina Pidgeon (36)  Facebook
 

Thomasina Pidgeon has done Honey Badger, 8A (7C+) in Mt Evans. "Enjoyable with an epic top out. 14 moves at elevation proves a chore for this bird."

The great problem was set up by Jamie Emerson. The 36 year old mum has previously, in 2011 alone, done six boulders 8A and harder.

 
 
8B+ (C) FA by Micky Page  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUKC reports that Micky Page has done two seldom repeated 8B+ by Fred Nicole in Rocklands, Golden Shadow and Black Eagle. He also opened a new 8B+ or 8C.

"King of Limbs was an old project not far from the classic Leopard Cave. Following an obvious roof line, a good starting crimp rail leads to 3 hard moves at full extension then easier climbing above. It took me a while to build the specific strength needed at the crux and it was a battle to finish it.. Definitely a classic and one of the most challenging problems I've done." (c) Nick Brown Outcrop Films, Rocklands trailer.

 
 
8a and 8b+ by wife (54) and husband (59)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLetizia Titta Colombo, who did her first 7a at 40 and her first 8a at 43, has this summer done Anaconda Style, 8a in Candalla which is a 35m endurance route. She has previously onsighted Zawinul syndacate, 7c (+) at Kalymnos and a dozen routes 8a and harder.

Her husband Francesco Segafredo (59) did recently two 8b+ in Sperlonga, Viaggio uguale Infinito and Piccolo Gesti. The plan for this autumn is Antalya and Kalymnos.

 
 
9a by Joey Kinder  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJoey Kinder has done his fourth 9a, Bad Girls Club in Rifle. "Its a classic power endurance route. Kind of like a Spanish route where you get a long sustained section of hard serious climbing to a rest and then repeat over and over till the anchor. I am just stoked to have done it. After bolting it and setting it free to the hungry masses I got to do it as well...

Next is to go Andrada Loco and bolt more projects... MORE! 9A+ is what we need and I will hook this up." Joekindkid.com

 
 
8C FA by Fred Nicole (41)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePrana reports that boulder icon Fred Nicole who has been a global boulder pioneer since the 90-ies, especially in Switzerland, Rocklans and Hueco Tanks etc and the first to etablish 8B, 8B+ and 8C, has established a new 8C, Le Boa. In the end of this Nicole video the start of Le Boa is included.

"It is a sit down start on a big snake like looking structure, which also gives the name to the problem. Some powerful moves on pockets underclings that bring you to a tricky traverse with more pockets and a finish with long moves into a big flake. It ends in another problem called “Mosaik”, rated V11 or 8a."

"Most of the time I don’t grade my boulders anymore, but people are still curious what they could be. On this one my feeling lies around 8c boulder, as it felt as the hardest boulder I ever did on pockets."

 
 
8c (b+) by Sasha Digiulian (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian continues her rampage around Lleida doing Aitzol, 8c (b+) and Flash Over, 8b+ in Margalef, both Second Go. During the last 20 days the 18 year old has done 20 routes with a score of 8b or more.

Photo(c) Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

 
 
9a by Mikel Ziarrusta  Facebook
 

Mikel Ziarrusta has done his second 9a, Sistematik ihes in Aizpun. He has previously done nine 8c+, four of which he completed in 2011. He is now #7 in the routes ranking game.

 
 
8c again by Caroline Ciavaldini  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Pearson reports that he and his girlfriend, Caroline Caravaldini, have done Souvenir du Pic, 8c, in St Guilhem. Along with the seven 8c’s she has completed, Caroline is a highly accomplished trad, multi-pitch and competition climber. She placed #5 in both the WC 2011 and 2010. Carolineciavaldini.com

 
 
Another two 8b OS by Sasha Digiulian (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian Sasha Digiulian once again has shown she is one of the best females at onsighting, dispatching another two 8b's in Bielsa: Just Married and Highway 42. In combined ranking of men and women she is #5. She sits with Charlotte Durif as being the greatest female onsight climbers in history.

In two weeks, Sasha will compete in the World Cup in Paris and the weekend after she plans to compete in the World Cup in Boulder, Colorado.

 
 
8b MP by the Huber brothers  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHuberbuam reports that Alexander and Thomas Huber has done the eight pitch 8b, Stoamanndl in Loferer Alm in Austria. Alexander (43) has been on the cutting edge for 25 years and some of his hard core routes have been upgraded which makes he the first person to establish 9a (+).

He has also have had the speed climbing record for Yosemite big wall etc etc. Alexander is one of the legends in the history of rock climbing. Here is another of his great stories doing a 8b+ free solo.

 
 
8c by Muriel Sarkany (37)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany has done her second 8c in Gorges du Loup, Quoussaï les maux de la fin and now her project is an 8c+ finishing in the same route. The second best female competition climber in the history is also #2 in the 8a ranking game.

"I began climbing at 16 year old and 1 year later I was starting competitions. I found a lot of pleasure doing that, I won all the titles (world champion, European champion...). And now, I decided to stop competitions and just take pleasure in rocks ;-)"

 
 
First 8C (B+) by Guntram Jörg  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGuntram Jörg has done his first 8C (B+), Anam Cara Silvretta, FA by Bernd Zangerl. "Can´t be more emotional. Challenged my life in so many different aspects! Now I´m so happy that I was ready for that step. I know there is much more possible and about that I´m psyched!" (c) Dominik Hadwiger

 
 
Sasha Digiulian (18) in record mode  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian has during the last two weeks set some type of record in Rodellar, having onsighted five routes between 8a and 8b+, flashed an 8a+ and redpointed four routes between 8b and 8c+.

Just using this two weeks score, the 18 year old would have been #1 in the ranking game. Some two months ago she was the overall world champion.
"I do not know about being the best female climber, but I do know that my passion for climbing outside is more prevalent than ever lately and that makes climbing very fun!" More info and pics at her nice blog.

 
 
8b RP and 8a OS by Ashima Shiraishi (10)  (2) Facebook
 

27crags reports that Ashima Shiraishi (10) has done Swingline 8b and onsighted The Return of Darth Moll 8a in Red River Gorge.

When it comes to bouldering, the 10 year old has already done two 8A's. Indoor training video and interview.

 
 
New granite cave in Italy  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSimone Pedeferri has opened a new granite cave with 10 routes between 7b and 8c+, 1 h walk from San Martino, the village of Melloblocco. More info Ragnilecco.com.

Simone is also a well known boulder profile and one of the guys behind Melloblocco. This summer he has done Neandertal, 8B which nobody did during the last Melloblocco.

 
 
8c MP by Luka Kranjc  Facebook
 

Planetmountain reports that Luka Kranjc has done the fourth ascent of Bellavista, 8c in the Dolomites. Apart from one 8c and one 8a pitch, the remaining eight pitches are 7b or easier. Alex Huber put it up in 2001.

 
 
8B+/8C or 8C FA by Dai Koyamada  (21) Facebook
 

UKC reports that Dai Koyamada has opened Dark Matter in Magic Wood. "I felt it was 8B+/8C or easy 8C.

 
 
8A by Stefanie Mathar  Facebook
 

Stefanie Mathar has done her first 8A, Encore une fois in Squamish and she goes to #13 in the ranking game.

 
 
Two 8a OS by Christina Schmid  Facebook
 

Christina Schmid has onsighted two 8a's in Rodellar, Gracias Fina and Coliseum and she goes to #11 in the ranking game. As a junior she won five Euro Youth Cups.

 
 
8A again by Courtney Sanders Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCourtney Sanders has done Zwiederwurz 8A (C+) and Shining 8A, in Silvretta. "SOOO SHARP! I split my tip on the send burn. but definitely worth it. This climb does not let up..Really good crimp line." In the spring 2009, she bouldered 7A and started to date Daniel Woods and now she is #11 in the ranking game.

 
 
Ben Spannuth checks in with 8b (+) OS  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBen Spannuth is a new 8a member who has started his first Euro trip with several personal best including Cosi fan tutte, 8c+ and the onsight of Cada loco con su tema which he gives a personal grade of 8b.

"I graduated from cu boulder in may and knew I had time for a long sport trip, and spain is the best place to go, so I wanted to get as much power endurance as possible and trained way harder than I ever had before during the beginning of the summer."

 
 
8b+ and 8b OS by Sasha Digiulian (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digiulian has had another amazing day in rodellar onsighting Eclipse Cerebral 8b and Maskoking 8b+, "Cool movements! Foot hold broke at the top, happily didn't fall :)"

The 18 year old combined world champion goes to #7 in the 8a ranking game.

 
 
9a? by Jonathan Siegrist  Facebook
 

Jonathan Siegrist blogs about his latest 9a?, Bad Girls Club in Rifle which was equipped with 17 bolts by Joey Kinder. "I did BGC on my 8th try - much faster than my other 9a's, and almost twice as fast as I did Necessary Evil 14c (8c+) earlier this year."

 
 
8B+ by Jon Cardwell  (1) Facebook
 

Jon Cardwell has done Aslan 8B+ in RMNP and he goes to #13 in the ranking game. "The power endurance test piece of RMNP. First try today in the crisp conditions after many attempts in the summer. Fall has arrived!"

 
 
8B+ by Mignon Olivier  Facebook
 

Mignon Olivier has done his econd 8B+ in Magic Wood, The Never Ending Story which was set up in 2003 by Chris Sharma. It is probably the most repeated 8B+ in the world and it links an 8A+ into an 8A and is 13 meters long.

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