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2009-09-30 00:41:11 |
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Jens, you should provide reference to Udo Neuman's website, since it's his observation and he compiled this video. Otherwise this post reads as your original content; in fact it's almost a quotation.
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2009-09-30 01:01:23 |
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And what does this observation prove.
Adam climbed really fast in Arco but did not win.
Angie (Eiter) often climbs really slow but always checking her time and often wins.
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2009-09-30 03:55:15 |
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Cool to see them climb at the same time.
Did men and women climb exactly the same route in the super-finals? (looks like it)
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2009-09-30 10:09:47 |
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I notice that Adam Ondra climbs in Miuras and the two others climb in Cobras. Maybe the difference is the stiffer shoe?
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2009-09-30 12:10:01 |
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As I have seen competition climbers hanging up-side down resting for 15 years, and actually get bored. I am pleased that it seems, speed is the key and I am sure also IFSC and all organizers welcome faster climbers. However, personally I think they should push it one more level and make the finals like 8b and make the fastest top-out to win.
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2009-09-30 12:10:03 |
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The cobra didnīt stop Johanna Ernst from almost topping the route.
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2009-09-30 14:56:14 |
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@jens.
I guess an experienced routesetter could easily avoid potentially boring rests if wanted.
To
speed up and make things more spectacular, they could on another hand
just make shorter, straighter routes where climbers could fall at any
move even when not pumped at all (and the moves should look obviously
hard and low-percentage, even ridiculously strong people should be
allowed to feel "in control" only at the clipping holds. People should
dyno, slap, scream, use footholds so shitty that sometimes they skid).
And uh, many big slopers with no thumb catches, where stopping=slowly
slipping off.
Like, really, stacked boulder problems...do you have any video example of this kind of routesetting in a wc lead event?
Is there any argument agaist favoring this route style in competition?
Do
routesetters directly earn any percentage on the "show" outcome, like
tickets, occasional tv rights, event sponsorship etc? Will they earn
more money if they set up a more enjoyable show?
Is the general public ever asked an opinion in the form of, for instance, multiple-choice polls directly after the comp?
regarding
speed, it is obvious that if you can go fast, you get less pumped.
Oudoors, a redpoint attempt on a 20 meters route is usually a matter of
very few minutes, if there is no big rest...
But, to go fast, you
must have a really precise idea of what to do in the next moves. Even
on plastic, to me it does not seem so trivial to climb like that
onsight (but i am a bad climber!). I mean, it requires a perfect ground
inspection plus the ability of looking 4-5 moves ahead while you are
still moving.
All slalom skiers do that, and indeed they do at a
quite fast rate (1 pole/second?), but they can look the poles from much
closer and for 30 minutes, and the moves in skiing are more
repetitive...
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2009-10-01 21:35:47 |
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to Martin Thompson and Graeme Alderson, its funny to notice that your two responses, what i would consider the naggy little bitch ones, come from two chaps with no climbs on their scorecards. maybe you two gals should actually get out and climb? just a thought ladies.
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2009-10-01 22:05:29 |
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Hi Joe
And would you mind pointing out when I have been abusive towards you?
Listing the routes that I have done does not make me a worse person. Just as not listing my routes does not makes me a better person.
Obviously you know very little about me but having checked your profile I will tell you that I started climbing before you were born
Toodle pip old bean
Graeme
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